12 tips for BEST vespa SUSPENSION | FMP - SolidPASSion |

all tips u need for choosing your scooter suspension. based on info motorbike suspension proffesionist. see further down for more info
1: gas pressure support
= no oil bubbles when under load
2: thick damper rod
3: dissasembling = SERVICEABLE!
4: being adjustable. spring & damping
5: good shocks NOT cheap
6: not most expensive = for racing only
7: check for service material AVAILABLE
(ie bitubo or stage6)
8: div shop brands NOT servicable = 1way shavers
9: good suspension is SOFT = flat ironing all bumps for comfort
10: setting: the softest, then adjust 2ur comfort
11: buy shocks from proffessionist = OFFICIAL REAL BRAND dealer = not div parts dealer
= freshly produced after you order = not "oldish" out of the big storage pile
12: 50-100,- is NOT good suspension = its expensive!
suspension explained by KTM
studio.youtube...
longer version of these tips ;)
• ultimate SCOOTER vespa...
FMP is not bitubo sponsored. its just reasonable priced good shocks, best bang for the buck.
own experience and info, the 1,2,3,4 MUST HAVEs are copied (beside very logial) its from a suspension pro homepage with 40y of experience. read it up here:
www.rmproducts....
#RM #Fahrwerkstechnik: over 40y of #motorbike #suspension #experience speaking, telling us the most important requirements. listen carefully:
(translated from german into english)
After more than 40 years with and on the motorcycle in racing, endurance racing, development and production, a few “musts have " emerged, BASIC REQUIEREMENTS tips for shock absorbers:
1) GAS PRESSURE SUPPORT:
It is essential that a damper has gas pressure support so that the formation of vapor bubbles in the oil (and thus loss of damping) is excluded in the long term under stress! (Important!)
2) THICK DAMPER ROD:
The damper rod (chrome part) should have the largest possible diameter! It's like the forks! In the 70s we drove with # 30-35mm stanchions, today we drive with # 48 and more. The dampers used to be # 10mm, today we drive # 18 and more. Most customers never look at it - unfortunately - large diameters bring considerable stability and thus less wear and thus a longer life of the shock absorber - to name just one important advantage!
3) SERVICEABLE:
Can be dismantled - an important point is ease of service! Can I change the oil, can I fill gas - is it possible to repair it? Can the damper be adapted to my special requests to some extent?
4) DAMPER & SPRING ADJUSTABILITY:
The spring should be as easy as possible to adjust for load or pillion operation! The hydraulic spring preload is ideal for centrally seated struts: here I can adjust the spring preload while sitting on the moped - without clawing under my moped.
and the damper setting - an important point: if I make the spring harder, my damping becomes relatively softer because the spring then has more power.
The damping should be adjustable several times (at least 3) if possible! Frippery things like high-speed and low-speed are ideal for the racetrack - but too much of a good thing for the holiday track, as the conditions change too often and then fine-tuning is for nothing! An adjustable rebound is sufficient for the streets, because it also changes the compression proportionately due to the design.
So now we know! A damper does not have to cost 1500 euros to be able to do something, the skilful salesman now has a little more difficulty pulling us over the counter. We know what to look out for when we buy a new damper. These are the road requirements. It's different in racing, where we fight for tenths, where high-speed, low-speed, Esa and whatever their names are in demand and very useful - they bring what we are looking for, the famous tenths that are otherwise impossible to find. There the 1,500 euros investments make sense, but here, too, 1-4 should be observed!
R1 - R like racing, here the highest level of durability and adjustability and serviceability is required! Rebound and compression should be noticeably independently adjustable and easily accessible.
R2 - A separate gas tank, if possible with a flexible supply line, should be able to be attached to the motorcycle in such a way that it lies optimally in the cooling flow.
R3 - A hydraulic spring preload is very important!
R4 - high-speed and low-speed are the icing on the cake, but not essential., A damper that is precisely tailored to the customer by the supplier is ideal. A lot of know-how is required here from the supplier. It turned out, for example, that the original dampers from R1 and GSXR1000 / 750 are of very high quality and that with a serious tuning with new pistons, shims, needle valves etc ...

[@marcustalman2756]

Like biturbo 😊

[@EddieEloff]

I bought set bitubo shocks and they ride soft and very nice. My spine is happy as well. I had yss. They nice but bitubo next lever. I had massive stability problem. All fixed now.

[@hafidzpilar323]

Maybe this is way off topic, but for aftermarket brake drum, especially for 1964 vespa vbb, which one do you recommend to really get good braking, BGM, SIP, Pinasco, or others. And which brake shoes for the brake drum do you recommend the most? Because to get the original brake drum in Indonesia is very difficult and very rare original drum condition (New Old Stock) thank you.

[@FreakMoPed8]

real brand, nothing rebranded. standard brake pads are fine. ensure the camshaft is good and doesnt have any rounded edges., thats often forgotten and causes weak brake power. kzbin.info/www/bejne/opOVlHpqnKyFaMk

[@pistil3838]

Grazie per info, mi hanno regalato a Natale SIP RBB e FBB x Px li conosci per caso? sono buoni? Ti ringrazio

[@FreakMoPed8]

no matter how good or not, they are not servicable. or just ask sip if there is a proffesionist being able to service it & if serviceaterial is available. if they give u info (i guess they gonna laugh at you) pls tell it to me then.

[@orzo21]

Or... buy a new yss every 3/4 years :D

[@FreakMoPed8]

its too hard and underdamped. suspension should work differently.