#138

Time to start part one of the Ranger restoration.
Sit back and ride along on the one hour and eight teen minute joyney while we discover problems along the way.
D-Lab Electronics:
/ @d-labelectronics
Support us on Patreon;
/ theradioshop
Contact Information;
gokarters.com/s...
Discuss this on my website;

[@vhfgamer]

I have to say these restoration videos are the cream of the crop.... my favorites. Makes me want to go out and buy an EF johnson ranger.

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks. I love doing these videos over any others. Fun and Johnsons are great old rids, simple built and have outstanding audio quality.

[@bowiejudah1617]

A tip: watch movies on Flixzone. Been using it for watching all kinds of movies these days.

[@titanmathew4204]

@Bowie Judah yup, I have been using flixzone for months myself =)

[@d-labelectronics]

Great to see another Johnson Ranger getting a second chance in life. Great job man

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks a bunch Terry. You just do not know how much you helped with the repair of this rig. As your videos on these Johnson's are the best on the net. You have taught me a great deal on tube repair. Thanks again and keep those videos coming as I watch them all.

[@randelstuckey5494]

According to Terry at D-Lab if the tube sockets are mounted with screws then it is a kit radio. The factory used rivets to attach the tube sockets.

[@TheRadioShop]

That is correct

[@mikesradiorepair]

Terrys is definitely the man to talk to about the old Johnson Vikings.

[@TheRadioShop]

I agree. Probably the best I have seen on these. Plus his videos are fun to watch.

[@d-labelectronics]

Thanks man, I appreciate the kind support

[@mikesradiorepair]

D-lab Electronics Terry , not sure how to tell you this but there is some nut running around in your kitchen wearing underwear on his head cooking amplifiers in the oven. ;-)

[@dougmcartin3881]

Now I know the secret. You use $100 bills to clean those relay contacts. Here I was using $20's all this time and wondering why the contacts were still dirty. Gonna love this series Buddy. Thanks for doing it. 73 Doug.

[@TheRadioShop]

Yep, a 20 only cleans 20% of the contacts, got to go will a 100 to get it all lol. Thanks for watching Doug.

[@dennisqwertyuiop]

glad to see back at repairs and restorations ,,thanks Buddy

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks Dennis. This is where the fun is at.

[@mellagarde7142]

Hi Buddy What a fine old Johnson. I am so glad to see this one on its way to being restored. You do an excellent job as always explaining what you are doing. Keep going, Buddy! Mel

[@TheRadioShop]

They are some of the best rigs you can get for AM Mel. Other than purchasing an AM transmitter from a radio station. Thanks for watching my friend. Will be shooting a video of the V-21 soon if the storms do not blow us away.

[@aaronson2540]

Looking good Buddy....Looking forward to the next video!! 👍 Thank You For Sharing!!!

[@TheRadioShop]

You are very welcome Aaron

[@vetterfellow]

Excellent demonstration of repair. I'm learning a lot of stuff here Buddy. Thank you for your hard work....

[@TheRadioShop]

Thank you for watching my friend

[@tomcolwell7676]

I'm just starting a restoration and what a great video for someone who's never done one of these restorations. The vinegar/salt solution saved a lot of effort and saved me from damaging the air variables. Thanks Buddy......fantastic....now I have to go down the rest of your list of videos. 73, W0KPC.

[@rebelba42]

I really like the long runners! It felt almost like sitting next to you. You put much effort to explain all the details on what you do and you make all the close up shots which is very unique! As always I've learned a lot. Many thanks for doing and sharing this with us! Great Job, I'm looking forward on Part 2

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks for the kind words my friend. Glad you enjoyed the experience with me.

[@injoelsgarage3934]

Buddy, Thank you for sharing all of your restoration secrets. This really helps everyone, and that's what it is all about. This is going to be a beautiful restoration Buddy. Awesome education. Your friend Joel.

[@TheRadioShop]

Thank you very much Joel. It is fun working on these old rigs. These are the ones I always wanted. Thanks friend.

[@W1AEX]

I enjoyed every minute of this Buddy. Thanks for sharing your work on this project! 73, Rob W1AEX

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks for watching Rob. This is a fun project.

[@TheDefpom]

Nice job, I wouldn't know where to start on that kind of gear, you make it look easy.

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks Scott. I think if you took a schematic you could figure it out in no time. Just think of tubes as mosfets. Easy stuff and you have a good knowledge to start with.

[@wa6gxq]

Thanks Buddy for another Great video. Learn something every time!

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks Barry. Glad you liked it.

[@jaybats7865]

Great video Buddy you really do such a great job and do it the right way👍

[@chuckcarabelli7746]

This is a good video Buddy, it reminds me of restoring my Viking Valiant. Great job, keep the video's coming!!

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks Chuck. Ah the legendary Viking Valiant. Great rig.

[@msaradio7455]

Haha, you old timer! I see you got to this project quick!!!! I don't blame u! You can tell you love the old boat anchors!! Good deal don't have time to watch this now, but believe me, I will as soon as I have the chance. Don't forget about Timtron, WA1HLR, he's a genius on these things... 73 Buddy, hope all is well....-Justin

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks Justin. Yes I feel right at home working on these old ones. Ready to get in on some AM action. I will look him up. Thanks

[@chuckcarabelli7746]

Yes and I love it, paired with my Collins 75-a4 👍😉

[@TheRadioShop]

That would make for a nice combination. I really need to get me a great receiver to match this unit. A Collins or Hallicrafters maybe.

[@texasvarmint9542]

Good job, Buddy! That's going to be a real nice "boat anchor" :-)

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks James. I really like these old ones.

[@texasvarmint9542]

My first transmitter as a novice was a Johnson Viking Adventurer. I modified an old ARC-5 transmitter to use as a VFO. Very simple and easy to work on when a problem arose. Wish I still had it 😊

[@davidsumner6536]

I agree with your comments about solid state rectifiers. The choke input smoothing will give sky high voltage with no load. Better to delay it with the tube rectifier, and then the TX is warmed up and providing a load.

[@medhawk4885]

GREAT VIDEO~Thanks ans lookin' good there

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks for watching.

[@mike4330]

Now that's a stick-to-your-ribs video. Good stuff Buddy. 73 de K5ROE

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks Mike

[@soeasilynoticed]

Just looking at the double fuse in the line cord gives me a shock haha! That is a terribly dangerous method of fusing and a trap for the inewbie tech. Great video, I really need to get more tools for my repairs. The fixes I do are mostly functional, not always the prettiest. Though I did recently redo a D-104 preamp with a modest look to it. Too bad no one will ever see the fix.

[@TheRadioShop]

Yes that is another abomination I have to correct. Although the original cord had the fuses in the plug. This will have them in the chassis,. That is one thing about some repairs. Others will never see it. Thanks for watching.

[@jimgiordano8218]

I love these resto's, I am an old tube guy and am getting back into the hobby again. I am working on Heathkit's. Yes it is a kit, kit's used screw's to mount sockets and transformers, factory used rivets.

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks Jim. Heathkits were great!

[@keith98point6]

Many thanks for making this video. You have a very reassuring and calm delivery. It gives me more confidence as I work on mine. Alas I didn't find a Part 2 video. I have my Johnson Ranger open on the bench, VFO shield off (and what a job that was), replaced the 18K ohm "Chernobyl resistor", ordered the replacement capacitors, and have already cleaned and relubricated the vernier. I used a synthetic grease that will still be viable for as long as the shaft needs to be turned. As an aside, I had a couple long telephone chats with the Ranger designer Manley Youngberg before he passed, who also designed the vernier. Curious how you fused it. I plan to fuse it similar to my Navigator fusing where I used an inline plastic pulse holder inside the cabinet. Works great. Did you check all the resistors in the VFO? And how did your restoration turn out I wonder. Thank you!

[@tubeDude48]

ALWAYS use a Ultra Sonic cleaner for Var. CAPs.

[@stanleygerrick6053]

Dear Buddy, I like your work ethic and your devotion to quality. I wore out my chair cushion watching your videos! An electric tooth brush and a dilute solution of dish washer soap cleans chassis, faceplates and knobs well too. Dr. Stan KZ8G

[@TheRadioShop]

Hi Stan, thank for the kind words. You are right, Joy for the stubborn stuff and Dawn for general cleaning. Now I have to give the electric tooth brush a try, Thanks

[@cuban9splat]

Hi Doc, Thanks for the tip about the electric tooth brush. 73 de K7RMJ Frank

[@jonteske4267]

The push-to-talk relay was not provided in the kit, but there was a circuit and specifications paragraph in the original kit assembly manual. I never put that in my own Ranger when I built it (1959) because I didn't have the money when I was a teen and by the time I got to use it after college and a few years of apartment living I really only used mine on CW (which was done by break-in) because there was almost no AM phone being used in the late 1960s. Another problem that I had was after I sold it and the purchaser complained that the VFO drifted badly. I don't remember which capacitor it was but I had a terrible time finding the proper temperature compensating capacitor. I never did find one with the right value (ca. 1974.) It was at the top of the phenolic board in the VFO assembly. The fuses in the AC plug was original. I now do three wire with chassis fuse and hot side switching in all boat anchors I work on. I can't tell which the original circuit did since the on-off switch is on a ceramic rotating switch and I couldn't trace that part from your schematic on the video.

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks for sharing those years of knowledge Jon. I noticed that the relay was not in the operation manual but saw it in the assembly manual. In part two I am doing the vfo seems pretty stable. Thanks again.

[@harbselectronicslab3551]

You can get really thin Nylon cutting boards (About 1/8") that make a good replacement material for that VFO flexi joint........Nylon is a great way to go as its so strong

[@mikesradiorepair]

Harb's Elecronics Lab I use thin Teflon sheets. Super high heat resistant and flexible.

[@TheRadioShop]

Teflon works great. But this is less than 1/16th of an inch and did not have any that thin.

[@mikeclare883]

Go to Terries site and watch his rebuild of Viking RangerII . It will answer a lots of question. keep up the good work!!!.

[@TheRadioShop]

Do not think I have missed any of his videos. Simply some of the best repairs I have ever seen.

[@TheRadioShop]

kzbin.info/door/Rs15W2eE8Ugg4kXxOz0hSQ

[@radiobigman47]

make it look so easy

[@TheRadioShop]

Good luck

[@cuban9splat]

Excellent series Buddy. Great idea about cutting the bristles short on the tooth brush but I wonder what the foam stuff is that you put on the tooth brush when you are cleaning the chassis? Also, does your wife know you do that with her tooth brush? LOL. That was an amazing restoration. You have done yourself proud, Buddy. Thank you for sharing it with us. Looking forward to the next one for this Ranger. I love the old Johnson equipment. 73 DE K7RMJ Frank

[@TheRadioShop]

Aw thanks Frank. It is fun working on these. The foam is nothing more than a product I have mentioned several times. Called Totally Awesome. To make it into a foam just punch small holes in the pickup tube in the spray bottle and give it a little shake. When you squeeze the trigger air is introduced into the liquid. Shhh, don't tell the wife.

[@jameslucas6589]

Let me say I enjoy your videos very much. I learn a lot. This one confused me though. Re-capacitors, you said over valued voltage is not a good idea. But I have heard nearly 100% of the time that over valued voltage on the cap is only ensuring higher performance. If a cap is rated at 50v, then it can withstand up to 50v dc voltage. It does not mean that there is 50v of dc, there may be only 20v dc present. If I understand what little I know, the B+ is the highest voltage present and the high voltage caps are rated to handle it. I no doubt have that screwed up. May be I and others are missing something. Now Shango066 does say over rating the voltage might not let an electrolytic cap form properly. I don’t know. He is the only one I have heard about that. Please help me on this. I know the newer caps are supposed to be superior. Time has no yet proved this. But aside from that, I wish someone would reproduce caps as they were once made with foil, paper and wax. It is possible to re-stuff but it would be fun to have the original. I do understand if you are willing to pay, you can order multi-section canned caps at values you want. I think I may do this for the few restorations I wish to keep for myself. Others, I would re-stuff by uncrimping the top or bottom. It’s not hard and looks 100x better than cutting. Your work is outstanding. We both share the penchant of cleaning to the original condition. I am so anal, I bought a river press to be able to re-rivet the tube sockets back into the chassis. Thanks again for your hard work. I hope you return to the Fluke DMM video#50. I would love to see what was the problem. I have the same unit as many people who no doubt got them cheap from the government surplus. Mine is stickered with NASA identification on it. But with around a thousand tantalum caps I am worried about recapping. It runs now, but don’t use it much at all til I better know what to look for. Thank you sir.

[@treefellonya]

Very nice, very helpful video. I always wondered how a guy could clean up a dirty ole chassis. I have several transmitters, and receivers that I would love to restore. Do you use the vinegar and salt solution on the chasis too? What about cleaning up the transformers? Same thing?

[@TheRadioShop]

If it is heavy rust on a chassis I use naval jelly. No vinegar salt on chassis, but would work. On transformers some light cleaner on scrotch brite pad will clean them right up. Thanks

[@cleophusA]

Loved this video. Are you going to do the follow up video anytime soon?

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks. I will do more as they come in yes. This one is working just fine now

[@Kd4stt.]

I was hoping to find someone to restore an old Johnson Ranger for me. I have bought a couple of tubes and a switching relay thus far.

[@TheRadioShop]

If I had the time I would love to. Maybe in a few months.

[@mikeclare883]

Check for rivets in tube sockets

[@TheRadioShop]

Has nuts and bolts. So we now know that it is a kit. Original builder did a pretty decent job.

[@injoelsgarage3934]

Buddy, hope you and yours are safe from irma. Joel

[@TheRadioShop]

Thank you Joel

[@marks5239]

Nice job - but what did you use for cleaning solution for the chasis? I have 2 rangers and neither give full power out with the vfo, but they do with a crystal. I assume that that resistor or tubes must be defective... Thanks again for taking it nice and slow... I really like this video

[@TheRadioShop]

For normal cleaning I use Never Dull followed by automotive wax. For rust naval jelly. Yes if internal VFO is low then check the voltages on the VFO. Either tube or high value resistor has changed. Thanks for watching.

[@Chris_Grossman]

What is the part number of the Dow Corning assembly paste?

[@mikeclare883]

Go to D-lab Electronics , Look for video "How to repair Johnson Ranger 2 Ham AM-CW Tube Transmitter VFO D-lab This will lead you to three part series on Ranger. Hope this helps and I do enjoy your site . Have a Knightkit T-150A I am rebuilding and will do some mods that correct its problems . :) Mike/WB3ILM

[@TheRadioShop]

That was a good series he done. Thanks

[@jimgardner3255]

Hey Buddy- GREAT video (as usual)! I'm working on a Ranger this week as well. I noticed the black mark on the cap you put in place of the big "orange drops" - are you testing these for outside foil? Just curious. Thanks for all the knowledge shared!

[@TheRadioShop]

Hi Jim. Good to hear of another Ranger getting repaired. And you are spot on on the black mark. I always try and follow that rule so no problems can be introduced into the unit. Thanks for the comment.

[@survivalradioastaticd-1042]

A question for all. How important is a distortion meter?

[@TheRadioShop]

Depending on what you are working on. And just how clean you want it to sound. I like to hear others comment also.

[@flatfrog69rr71]

Hi Buddy-Thank you As always, radio engineering at its best!! Can I ask you have you had much dealings with the Ft200/Henry one ? I am at presently just stripping mine ready for restoration (it is full of dry sand- but thank goodness no salt) I am looking for info on realignment, and enquiring have you ever done a video on one ? I have looked around but there seems very little info about Thanks once again

[@TheRadioShop]

I have worked on a few, but before I started doing videos. Next one that comes in I will shoot the vid on it. Somewhere here I have some material on it. Good luck on your repairs.

[@wab1954]

The 6au6 is not bad?

[@TheRadioShop]

I thought it was, but after looking at it closely someone painted the top of it. Checks fine.

[@douro20]

From what are those coil formers made?

[@TheRadioShop]

You mean the ones behind the meter and lights? It is just coated magnet wire. No inner former.

[@douro20]

The Radio Shop No, the white ones.

[@TheRadioShop]

Oh, they are ceramic type former. Lucky none are broken and cracked. Could be replaced with 1 inch OD pvc if in a place where the heat is low.

[@PapasDino]

This is super work Buddy...where in the world do you find the time? ;-) 73 - Dino KL0S

[@TheRadioShop]

Thanks Dino. Fun doing it. Really to be honest, it did not take that long at all. Took more time editing the video lol. Thanks for watching.