#15 - Hakko FX-951 Soldering Station

[@NunYa953]

I need to hire this guy to organize my workbench...and Hakko should hire this guy to train it's salespeople.

[@dalerobinsuk]

What an excellent video, I have had my FX-951 for years, I also have 2 Weller stations, WD1 and WSD80, both of those have the WSP80 Iron. I recently shelved the FX-951 and have been using both WSP80's. I needed some different tips (Much cheaper for the WSD80 than the FM-2028) but decided to look at what was available for the FX-951 as it has easily swappable tips. Needless to say I end up watching your video out of curiosity yesterday. I ended up getting the FX-951 off the shelf to have a play with it. And checked it on my FG-100, the FX-951 is more accurate and didn't need to set offsets like I do with the Wellers. So today I ended up ordering some more tips and multiple different colour sleeves! The FX-951 is now back on my bench and the WSD80 has been shelved. I forgot how good the FX-951 is and fits me like a glove! - As my FX-951 is from 2008 my "Key" broke a long time ago. I have printed several spares but nothing like your slimline one which looks great! Do you have the STL file available to download?

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you enjoyed the video. I also have a Weller station and used it for years and I liked it. However I now use the FX-951 almost exclusively. Yes there is an STL file for the key. It is available for download on my Tigermultimedia.com website. Just go there and click on Reviews and select the FX-951. You should see the Hakko Card/Key download link. It is a 7z zip file and if need, there is the free 7-Zip application available on the Internet. Let me know if you have any problems downloading the file. Thank you for commenting on the video.

[@dalerobinsuk]

@@jwrelectro I ended up investing in 5 new tips for the FX-951, yesterday it started playing up and the display was glitching and button presses were doing random things. I couldn't believe it after I'd spent money on it. I stripped it down and couldn't see anything immediately obvious wrong with it, but could get it to glitch when I flexed the main PCB. It had to be a bad solder joint somewhere, so first port of call was to reflow the CPU, it became a chick and egg situation as the tips ideal for that are for my FX-951. I ended up using the Weller with a bit of flux and some nice leaded solder. My FX-951 is from 2008 where they still hadn't got leadfree soldering quite right. It seems to be behaving itself now and today finally got around to printing you key, thank you for the link to the STL File.

[@jwrelectro]

@@dalerobinsuk Sorry to hear about the problem but glad you got it fixed. I am not sure it is popular or not but I like lead solder and as in the video I prefer Kester Solder.

[@adelmorse173]

I wish that more people would upload such detailed videos and without wandering off in comments that I consider irrelevant and a waste of my time. Well done sir for all the hard work!

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you for the kind comment and I am very happy when others find the videos useful.

[@BenMelluish]

Incredibly detailed video. Excellent work. Thank you.

[@jwrelectro]

You are welcome and thanks for commenting.

[@davadoff]

Yeah, it should sleep immediately then go into standby after another 30 mins. I would’ve expected that behaviour. I have a ‘standby saver’ thing that automatically shuts on & off mains devices when you turn on & off whatever is plugged into the master socket. So potentially you could turn your equipment on & off automatically by turning a lamp or something on & off. You can also get wall socket adaptors (at least in UK) that shut off the power after a set period of time. Press a button to add 8hr or however much time before it turns the power off. I’m sure you could run multiple devices off it’s one output.

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for commenting!

[@computerworksuk]

Great work

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you and glad you like it.

[@treadmillrepair754]

Excellent video

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks...

[@tonybriggs1068]

Your'e more than welcome looking forward to your smd vid Keep up the great work..:)

[@RC_Aviator]

does this take the temperature from the tip or the element inside?

[@jwrelectro]

The sensor is located near the tip and of course on the inside but I am not sure exactly how it is implemented. In the video you probably saw me use a thermocouple sensor to measure the external tip temperature. Since the temperature meter read the same as the Hakko's displayed 343 degrees C, I would assume it is designed to indicate the actual tip temperature. Sorry if that is not a very good answer. Maybe in the future I will actually cut one open.

[@RC_Aviator]

that was a perfect answer, i honestly didnt have much time to watch the whole video so i must have missed that part when you record the tip temperature. thank you for the response!!

[@reinaldoremedios5771]

This is one of the best video reviews I have ever seen!. Well detailed without getting boring and right to the point. The drawings and pictures could not be any better. I am usually unable to watch a review video of half of this length and somehow I went through your review without notice. Great work !!!

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks and glad you liked it.

[@flashcraft]

"Make sure it's unplugged to avoid some excitement." lol

[@jwrelectro]

Yeah I smiled too when I said that.

[@telelaci2]

Bloody precise and detailed video, very informative. You must be an engineer for 100% sure.

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you for the kind comment. I am glad you enjoyed the video and found it informative.

[@steveswoodworking2504]

What a fantastic review, with extremely nice photography, slides and video. You covered everything in great detail in such a precise manner. And yeah, the soldering station looks awesome too!

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you for the kind words and also thanks for commenting.

[@canon5789]

The best electronic videos on KZbin and this one as well.....please keep it going!!! Thank you so much!!!

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you for commenting... much appreciated and yes I am finishing another video.

[@KF7IJZ]

Very thorough. Thanks for the video.

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you and glad you enjoyed the video. I just got an FM-2032 micro soldering iron to go with the station so I am looking forward to reviewing it when I do the SMD video.

[@ntoobe]

I was blown away by the quality and attention do details provided in this review!

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you for the comment. Glad you enjoyed the video.

[@gabakusa]

i dont see the URL to download the design to print the key, please can you add it in the video description i just lost mine

[@jwrelectro]

Good idea about adding it to the description. I will do that but here is the info you requested. The STL file for the key is available for download on my Tigermultimedia.com website. Just go there and click on Reviews and select the FX-951. You should see the Hakko Card/Key download link. It is a 7z zip file and if need, there is the free 7-Zip application available on the Internet. Be sure and use a filament that will not pass the UV light, black color for instance.

[@Crazy--Clown]

Once your Hakko is out of warranty and it shits itself forget about getting a circuit diagram for it... Hakko will NOT supply it because its confidential.... Lol really Hakko, its a frigging soldering iron and not a rocket you muppets. People don't waste your money on this overpriced junk. Hakko was great in the 90's but got money hungry

[@brauliochi512]

Thanks, excellent video and information, I looking exactly what i need for this station, and tips recommended

[@jwrelectro]

Glad the video was informative and thanks for commenting.

[@veninem1418]

Hello and thanks for this helping useful video! Could you measure the trasformer's output voltage of the station because i 'd like to convert it to eu standards 230V AC. Thanks in advance!

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you found the video useful. The loading on the transformer changes due to the heater circuits so it has a range. Using an Amprobe AM-140-A DMM and measuring directly at the transformers secondary winding I had a range of 25.5 volts to 28.2 volts 60Hz. Also I assume you could get the transformer from Hakko or use an external converter because finding a transformer which also has the proper wattage and that would fit inside might be a little harder. Best of luck and hope this helps.

[@ssm0379]

Your video helped me make my decision much easier. Thank you for your hard work sir. Just subscribed.

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for the comment. The main reason I make videos is to try and help, so glad it was useful for you.

[@ve6kk]

An incredibly well presented and detailed look at the FX-951. Also, an excellent picture reference too for the buyer or owner. Though a hobbyist, your skills rival many "professionals". Congrats on the excellent e-workshop. One hint, don't clean that tip when placing in the stand, it helps extend tip life. Cheers!

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you very much for the kind comment. Good point on the tip cleaning it is a habit I have a hard time breaking. Again thanks for the post.

[@MsNIKITA]

@jwrelectro Thank you for your Hakko review and for creating a STL file of the control key. Every useful.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad it was helpful.

[@patchcomputers]

Absolutely first class! Wow what an in-depth review..Thank you for making the video and you have gained another subscriber! Merry Christmas

[@jwrelectro]

Happy you liked the video and I did enjoy making it. You have a great holiday season too!

[@dixsusu]

Very good review , thorough,please keep it going! .... Very rarely i can see a good post as this and HD. 79!

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for commenting and I do try and keep everything in focus and will always do HD or UHD.

[@MT-ew9mz]

Can someone tell me where to buy those yellow tip housing screw handle, I looked everywhere and cannot find any place selling those yellow ones let alone the colour handles his got

[@jwrelectro]

I purchased my colored sleeves form Tequipment I just checked and they have several of the colors in stock and all are listed. Rather than a link that might break, just go to the home page www.tequipment.net/ and enter Hakko Sleeves in the search window.

[@stevensiwinski]

This is a very good review and may have convinced me to purchase this soldering station! Thank you!

[@jwrelectro]

You are welcome. I am still happy with my purchase.

[@gabakusa]

please can you add the URL of everything you use in this video. i want to get the same electronic holder you use in minute 26:26 it is very cool

[@jwrelectro]

I got that device from Amazon. In case the link might change just go to Amazon and put in: "PanaVise Model 201". Funny the pictures do not show the snap on adjustment wheel but I assume it is still included. Hope that helps.

[@G5Hohn]

Writing a good user manual is a lost art. It's not that hard, yet nobody seems to think it's worth the effort?

[@MrDinakdakan]

my connecting cable to stand is broken it is the same as aux 3.5mm cable?

[@jwrelectro]

Sorry to hear about that. An Auxiliary or Stereo 3.5mm cable should work but there are some that would not work. The original is direct connection male to male so the sleeves are connected, the rings are connected and the tips are connected, it is a straight-through. The overall shaft from the tip to the plastic housing is around 14mm. Some Aux and stereo plugs are around 15mm to 18mm from tip to plastic housing, Also check the plug picture and many Aux and stereo plugs have a metal raised shoulder at the plastic housing which could be a problem. You could also make your own cable and many 3.5mm plugs from vendors give all of their dimensions. Hope this helps.

[@MrDinakdakan]

@@jwrelectro I appreciate your detailed reply for an old video, sub

[@PrimeHiFi]

Great in-depth review. Really appreciate the time spent putting this together, as well as the illustrations. Just bought an FX-951 and have been loving it. Hope to see more videos from you soon - I see you’ve taken a hiatus. Hope all is well.

[@jwrelectro]

Very happy you enjoyed the video. I think you will be happy with your FX-951.

[@KainkaLabs]

Very nice and detailed video. One thing should perhaps be corrected. In a teardown of a fake chinese FX-951 clone I noticed that the heater-element and the thermocouple in the T12-tips are not separated and not connected to the outer grounded metal-casing, but are in fact connected in series and isolated from the metal-casing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKbHl3yna7WEg9k Could you check this with your T12-tips.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you liked the video. I watched your video and nice job on working out a schematic diagram for the fake unit. I checked the T15 tips and they have similar resistance measurement that you got. The drawing I made was draw from a picture on the Hakko website. I did measure the control waveform to the heater/sensor and it looks like a very nice pulse train that never changes polarity. So not sure what they are doing but doesn't look like a simple rectified AC signal. Once at 300 degrees C there are six pulse bursts that are separated by 60 msec from the following six pulses. It actually syncs to the blinking led indicator on the FX-951. The peak of the 10 msec pulses are each around 30 volts DC. Hakko uses 5 of the 8 pins on the DIN plug as shown in the video so they couldn't use a 3-pin Din socket/plug. Here in the US I paid $230 free shipping or 185 Euros for the FX-951 and noted your cost may be well over twice as much.. ouch! At the price here in the States I think the cost is reasonable for the quality you get. Hope this helps and thanks for commenting.

[@KainkaLabs]

Thanks for your kind reply. In the meantime I have found out some more strange things about the clone which I will present in one of the next videos. May I use a screenshot/still of the original Hakko PCB from your video? (Of course with mentioning and linking in your video and your channel as a source) Yeah if I could get the original HAKKO for under 200 Euros here in Europe I instantly would have bought the original. The sum of an original tip-holder, the stand with the switch, the brass-mesh holder and 1 or 2 T12/T15 tips even adds up to more than 200 Euros here from HAKKO distributors!

[@jwrelectro]

Sorry to hear about the cost difference and as you said that is just too much money. You are more than welcome to use any screen shots. The main reason I make these videos is to help others with hopefully useful information. ; ) Also all the PowerPoint slides are in a pdf file for download on my website. So that file is available at tigermultimedia.com.

[@acalinoob4534]

Hello @jwrelectro I'm currently on you website and I'm trying to download the stl file for the key and i does not seem to work. May you please provide an update.

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for the heads up about the download problem. Unfortunately the Hakko control card in stl file format for 3D printers is currently not available on the website. The newer versions of WordPress do not support uploading or downloading the file type used for the control card anymore.

[@davadoff]

@@jwrelectro zip it before upload or 7z with password to obscure contents?

[@davadoff]

You can put heat shrink over the LED and IR sensor to disable it.

[@MindFlareRetro]

Wow. An exceptionally thorough review and very well produced video. Thank you. I just purchased an FX-951 and this video gave a me a complete overview of all aspects of my station. Excellent job.

[@jwrelectro]

Great, glad to hear you liked the video and found it useful. Also congratulation on your soldering station purchase. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do mine.

[@MindFlareRetro]

@@jwrelectro Thanks. Yes, I literally received it yesterday and hope to put it to good use soon. I am upgrading from an FX-888D as I wanted the flexibility to swap tips quickly and for a sleep mode. Thanks again for the great video!

[@HakkoUSA]

Amazing Review!!! Your contact info isn't updated on your website. One of our marketing team members would like to reach out to you.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you enjoyed the video. I have sent an email using your KZbin contact information.

[@G5Hohn]

Obviously there are many good ways to tin wires wires, but here's my tinning technique that works like a CHARM with the 951 (like it looks exactly like solder pot job). Grab the 4mm face-tinned bevel tip. Set the station down very low to 200C, just enough to melt eutectic solder. Flux the wire tips. Melt a glob of solder on the face of the iron tip. Then push the wire tip through the glob of solder working from tip *towards* the insulation. The fluxed wire will suck up the solder, and the tip-first approach mimics what would happen if you were to dip the wires into a solder pot. This method probably works with other tips as well, but the large flat spot on the 4mm face tinned bevel means this works well even with wires up to 12/14 AWG or so. Up to you to decide if the hassle of resetting station temp is worth it to get that last little bit of beauty on your tinning jobs. It is to me.

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for the tip.

[@G5Hohn]

When I measured the tip temp of my unit, it was about 12-15C cool. 350C would measure at 335C or so. I applied a correction of +15 in the parameters. It doesn't really matter, because ultimately the setting temp is arbitrary and just a number. How it works with the tip and the particular task is what matters, rather. Fantastic video. I love my FX-951, annoying quirks and all. I have my tip holder almost full now ;)

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you liked the video.

[@gabakusa]

very well done please make more videos about electronics ;-)

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks, I hope to start making videos again... had some health issues.

[@TheSwartz]

Is there something special about 343 degrees C? Excellent video, I really appreciate it. I went ahead and ordered it based on this video! Super excited to finally have a nice soldering device!!

[@jwrelectro]

Yeah what is the 343C thing? I mentioned in one place in the video that the 343C is about 650 degrees Fahrenheit. I am a big fan of Kester solder and the type I was using in the video, Kester recommends as a starting point 650F. I think you are the first person to ask about a clarification on this... thanks . Congratulation on your purchase and I think you will be very happy with it.

[@thehitman5007]

perfect review, subscribed. Thank u. I also noticed this seems to be your last video as you said you will be doing smd videos which i dont see any anymore. Have u migrated to a diff channel? Hope youre alright and safe.

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you for subscribing. The last couple of years I have had health issues and I have not been producing any videos. I am actually doing better the last few months and would like to start up the channel again. Glad you liked the review.

[@EnriqueVetere]

I know this video is somewhat old, but I'm looking a schematic of the 951 station and cannot find it. Older stations like the 936 used 24V AC to the heater, controlled by a TRIAC. It is common for modern stations use 24V AC controlled by a mosfet using zero-cross switching (probably the 393 detects zero crossing?). Apparently this station uses rectified 24V AC (i.e. without filter capacitor), probably to simplify commuting it with a mosfet. Anyway, I was hoping to confirm this, as some "diy T12" stations sold everywhere seem to use 24VDC switched at high speed... Have you gone further in the reverse engineering of the station? Or at least measure the heater output to check what is going there...

[@jwrelectro]

I answered this question in a reply in the comment's section but happy to paste it for your convenience. I have never seen a schematic on this station but it would be nice to have one. There are electrolytic caps so I think the AC is full-wave rectified and filtered. The signal going to the heater is a low frequency pulse train. Here is the pasted reply I did for another viewer: I connected an oscope to the red and black wires in the iron's handle and got a waveform. Once it had achieved 350 degrees C it displayed a burst of six 10 msec pulses. The six pulse bursts are separated by 60 msec from the following six pulses. It actually syncs to the blinking led indicator on the FX-951. The peak of the 10 msec pulses is around 30 volts DC. This waveform would vary as temperatures change but it appears to always be a DC level and not AC. Hope this helps.

[@samdeur]

Very enjoyable and informative to watch thx for all the work I will visit the sate later on the week. I was comparing this iron with the Hakko FX-888D I live in Europe and I'm able to get the FX-888D with the new desoldering gun FR-301 for €375 getting the same type of soldering iron as the fox-951 with de soldering station would be the HAKKO FM-204 with soldering set FM-2027-03 totaling €1022 alas I can't afford that to bad seems like a dream station

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you found the video informative. The price in the US seems reasonable for the FX-951 but unfortunately I guess it costs more in Europe.

[@free2beme902]

I have not seen a more thoroughly produced instructional video and review on any product. EVER!! You even go as far as specifying what transistors and voltage regulators are used on the circuit board. And to top it off, you cleaned and trimmed your fingernails!!! Thanks for that 😊. There is one thing you did not mention. Are the case screws metric or SAE? LOL kidding. I had to subscribe after seeing this. Looking forward to checking out all your videos.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you enjoyed the video.

[@TheHouseOfMoth]

One of the best product reviews I've seen! I was wondering if this was the iron for me so I set out looking for reviews and yours did not disappoint. Thank you! (order the iron)

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you enjoyed the review and enjoy your new soldering station.

[@nealz3407]

I was looking all over for what Parameter 5 (Error Alarm) & 6 (Under Temp Alarm). Parameter 5 is a lifesaver to silence the alarm while changing tips. Funny thing is with my new FX-951 (Sept 2016) Hakko removed the Parameter section from the manual. Thank you for the Video.

[@jwrelectro]

Your welcome, glad you liked the video. Yea I don't know why they removed that material from the current manual. I have the 2012 manual but as mentioned in the video the old 2008 manual includes that additional material. I printed out the 2008 manual as a backup reference copy. Hope you are enjoying your soldering station.

[@a1nelson]

Fantastic review! Even with "no clean" flux, on a genuine Hakko product, I was surprised to see they hadn't cleaned it up. Presumably, it's not electrically conductive (like traditional Flux is, to a certain degree), but it still looks messy. Maybe they're confident enough in their product that they don't believe anyone will ever open the case in the first place ;).

[@jwrelectro]

Yup there is some solder flux on the board in a few areas. I usually have not had any problems over the years leaving flux on the board. I will say I did have one major problem with flux removal in a very high impedance input circuit on a DMM. The flux remover spray I used made it much worst... my luck! The symptoms were drift in the Megaohm readings. Thanks for posting.

[@johngulliver6151]

Great informative review, Thank you

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@undercrackers56]

As usual, 290USD in the USA or 335UKP (450USD) in the United Kingdom. We don't get free support, we don't get extended warranty.

[@jwrelectro]

Ouch, that would make it difficult to purchase the unit the United Kingdom.

[@dojmike]

How confident are that the clone of the Hakko FG-100 tip thermometer is accurate? I also have one but I am not sure how close it is to the dial on my old Hakko936 soldering station. It seems ridiculous that Hakko would charge nearly the same price as the complete 951 station for the tip thermometer. Thank you for the complete review. The information you reported helped me decide to take the plunge on a new 951 station.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad the information helped you make your decision. I hope you enjoy your FX-951.

[@ApexMark2002]

I just purchased this unit and was very grateful to have found this video - thank you! For new (inexperienced?) users like myself who are getting the 5-E error and beep on initial startup, the tip needs inserted with a fair amount of force; a quite audible will tell you you've got it.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you enjoyed the video. Enjoy your new solder station!

[@pr0xZen]

The FM-2027 ring also blinks if there is a connection error (like a tip not fully inserted/contacting). This can be a nice little quality-of-life indicator if you shut off the buzzer, and hqve the station placed such that you can't easily see the display.

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for that information, I do not think I was aware of that feature.

[@astrataway7077]

I just bought one of these off ebay for $150 and not just the power unit. I got the wand and one small chisel soldering iron insert and a bonus charging cord. This would be my first stationary soldering iron whereas the pencil soldering irons I started out with were a Sears and Weller. Although purchasing this grade of industrial soldering equipment is in my opinion overkill I thought better of it and decided a machine of this grade might encourage me to improve upon my skills. My machine doesn't look like the one in the video its got soot, burn marks and deep gouges from being used in a working environment but it works beautifully I'm really starting to like it.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad to hear and hope you continue to enjoy your soldering station.

[@theviking6593]

Th good thing is i can order one from usa and when it will come in Greece i will change very easily the 120 volt transformer to 220 volt transformer. You do know all the parts can u pliz upload and schematic plan ?? and can u pliz review the pcb at the frond side ? cause is double side and u saw us only the down side

[@jwrelectro]

Sorry I do not have a schematic diagram of the unit. I am not associated with Hakko in anyway. You might try a search via Google. I also do not have a picture of the other side of the PC Board, you might try EEVblog Forums.

[@theviking6593]

ok thank u very much

[@ZumaB]

Hey there great video. Just got mine and for some reason it's not turning on? Edit: just checked the fuse and it's blown, time for a new one I suppose lol

[@jwrelectro]

Glad it was just a fuse. I hope you enjoy your new soldering station.

[@dickr5151]

Your video of the Hakko FX-951 Soldering Station is the only video that I have found that explains in detail exactly how to adjust the Parameter settings such as Fahrenheit to Celsius display changing, or the offset temperate setting adjustment. Your explanation of the Hakko FX951 is probably the very best Hakko FX-951 review on KZbin. I received my Hakko FX-951 yesterday and with your information I easily changed the Fahrenheit to Celsius and set the temperature @ 360c, I also set the offset temperature to +10c with no problems at all. I also received my Ebay VALTCAN FA-400 Solder Smoke Absorber, that is a $40 copy of the Hakko $70 unit. I am a retired Broadcast Engineer with ESD soldering experience going back to 1985 with Sony UMATIC Broadcast 3/4" video recorders. My old Ungar Imperial soldering pencil with the changeable heating elements and 24 carrot gold soldering tips is still in my grab and go tool kit, Xcelite TCMB100ST. The TV station I worked for had many hot air guns but the very quiet Ungar unit that you demonstrated in this video is the unit everyone liked the best.

[@jwrelectro]

I am glad the video was helpful and enjoy your new FX-951. Yeah I really like the Ungar 6966C. Looks like it is now a Weller 6966C and the tips are optional.

[@chefbink61]

Nice station solders well but the UI is the worst out there. I did not like the key but I put some heat shrink on the emitter and that fixed that. I really wish Hakko would do something with their UI,,, you should not have to goggle the manual every time you want to change something!!

[@jwrelectro]

It does seem that most do not like the UI. I think it could be better but actually for my use I do not mind it. Although I sure know I am in the minority on the UI. Thanks for commenting.

[@roystonsixtus]

Wow and that is an awesome review i have come across in You tube and thank you very much for your attention to details and excellent tutorial that needs an big applause thank you once again i will take your recommendation stay blessed 👍👍👍👍🙏

[@jwrelectro]

I am happy you enjoyed the video.

[@Ivar1231]

Dang! Best review I’ve seen on KZbin 👌🏻.. And I am printing that key too.. Thank you!

[@jwrelectro]

Glad the review was helpful and enjoy the key too.

[@dibraniuk]

Brilliant video explaining in details

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks! Glad you liked it.

[@lblepus]

Wow, great product review!!! Thank you! Hakko should be paying you, seriously.

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you. Glad you liked it and hope that it was helpful.

[@GigEmBQ92]

I have the FX-951 and I'm curious as to what the heat-resistant pad is for. Can you answer that?

[@jwrelectro]

Sure, it is to help in removing warm/hot tip cartridges from the handle when you wish to replace one soldering tip with another one. Kind of like using a pot holder in a kitchen. Hope this helps.

[@charlesarizona]

I believe there is no sensor separate from the heater. The station calculates heater temperature from the resistance of the heater, which varies with temperature. Did you cut open a tip? If not, I wonder how you decided there is a sensor inside. And what sensor could it be? The connections would not support a thermocouple, and a thermistor won't measure up to 450C.

[@jwrelectro]

I got the information about the sensor from a diagram Hakko showed for the T15 tips. In fact the diagram I drew in the video at 7:12 is a copy of that Hakko diagram. I did not cut open a tip to verify this sensor. You maybe right that there is no sensor in the tips of the T15s. Just like Hakko listing the voltage of 24 volts when it is actually a pulse train with peaks of around 30 volts going to the heater. Thanks for commenting.

[@charlesarizona]

Thanks so much for the clarification. I'm writing a book about soldering, so I have to get this right! Maybe I have to call Hakko, although I suspect their engineers are in Japan. Can you tell me where you found the diagram? I would appreciate it.

[@jwrelectro]

Sorry it has been about 7 years ago and the links I had do not work anymore. I am pretty sure I got the information from American Hakko Prod. Inc. Again the diagram I drew with the sensor was a diagram they had on their site. You might call them and reference the diagram. Also I noted on Amazon, Feita makes tips (T15) for the Hakko soldering stations and they also show a sensor in the tip. As you mentioned there may not be a sensor in the tip. Have fun writing your book.

[@davadoff]

@@charlesarizona T12 tips definitely have a thermocouple sensor in series with a heater. That diagram on this video still might be correct. If you applied 24v to the two contacts at the end of the T12 tip, current could flow through the sensor, then go via the case through the heater coil and back out the T12 tip. So those two contacts would look like a heater and thermocouple in series if that diagram was true.

[@charlesarizona]

@@davadoff My information came from an interview with a product manager at Hakko.

[@jackazz02]

the best video info thank you i hope make more video about hakko and weller wsd81 i hope next video how to identify original hakko tips because there is a lot of fake hakko

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you liked the video. I will be doing another one on the Hakko using an FM-2032 for SMD work.

[@dirindirin3983]

The best presentation, exhibition n demonstration I’ve ever seen! without doubt o any exaggeration. thnx ,

[@jwrelectro]

Very happy you enjoyed the video... thanks for the kind comment.

[@green_building]

This is very comprehensive review 👍👍

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for the kind comment.

[@musicaldracula2017]

He has complete eqauipment better than most production facilities I have seen... Respect :)

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you and glad you enjoyed it!

[@hl1mnu]

Thank you for excellent review! Apparently the station outputs a PWM DC voltage to the iron as the D8, bridge diode rectifier, Q1, MOSFET and Q7, power transistor suggest, but all the official Hakko web site specifications including FX-951 say the station output voltage is "AC 24V". So I am wondering if it is really AC output or DC output...

[@jwrelectro]

Good question. Answer: Pulsating DC at the iron. I think they might be referring to the power transformer in the unit which I measured around 25 volts AC, (24 VAC), the way they stated it might be confusing . I connected an oscope to the red and black wires in the iron's handle and got a waveform. Once it had achieved 350 degrees C it displayed a burst of six 10 msec pulses. The six pulse bursts are separated by 60 msec from the following six pulses. It actually syncs to the blinking led indicator on the FX-951. The peak of the 10 msec pulses is around 30 volts DC. This waveform would vary as temperatures change but it appears to always be a DC level and not AC.

[@hl1mnu]

Thank you for your kind response. It is interesting to see that they have switched from Triac-based pure AC control (936/937) to MOSFET-based 'rectified AC' control (951).

[@docbrazen]

Amazing overview. Very thorough. Wish all videos on KZbin were like this.

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for the comment glad you enjoyed the video.

[@Amsoily]

Hope all is well. Looks like tiger project didn't update. Send me a message to sell me keycard. Thank you.

[@Amsoily]

Or ill file one. ;) no 3d print here

[@jwrelectro]

Sorry Amsoily but I don't have any keycards to sell. Just the stl file of the card on my website for a 3D printer. Maybe you might find a friend who can print one for you?

[@samdeur]

Btw sorry for the typos doing this on a smartphone

[@galvb]

Great review! Thanks!

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for the kind comment.

[@IAmNotAFunguy]

We used these at my most recent job. They are very nice units.

[@jwrelectro]

I agree, I have been happy with my station.

[@ibrahimkayani2824]

I wish I had a better soldering iron I have only used ones that cost less then 2 dollars but have gotten got at soldering

[@jwrelectro]

Ibrahim, that is a very low price but if it meets your needs that's all that counts.

[@orbita1]

Thanks, do you think this is still a good iron to purchase?

[@jwrelectro]

I am still happy with my purchase and I have not had any problems with the station.

[@tonybriggs1068]

Cracking video good info ...i'm having one on the back of this video THANKS

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for the commenting. Glad you liked the video and subscribed... much appreciated!

[@maltisse]

Wish you had some more videos up after this one. I went though your whole catalog already lol. Thanks much for the 951 review though, I'll be grabbing it this holiday season.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad this video was helpful and I am sure you will enjoy your solder station. I would like to make more videos and hope that it will happen.

[@maltisse]

@@jwrelectro Can't wait! Thanks again!

[@solverz4078]

Could you please share the file for your low profile program key you 3d printed?

[@jwrelectro]

The STL file for the key is available for download on my Tigermultimedia.com website. Just go there and click on Reviews and select the FX-951. You should see the Hakko Card/Key download link. It is a 7z zip file and if need, there is the free 7-Zip application available on the Internet. Be sure and use a filament that will not pass the UV light, black color for instance.

[@BenMelluish]

If I ever die in suspicious circumstances I'd like you to take a look at my case.

[@jwrelectro]

LOL

[@a1nelson]

It would be great to see a FLIR image of the area at and near the tip. I'm keenly interested to see how much of the heat is being delivered to the tip/joint, vs the point of regulation ~1-2 cm away. For me, that's my primary motivation to go with a cartridge style iron. The poor heat transfer from the ceramic style heater on my iron leads to an unacceptable temperature drop under load.

[@jwrelectro]

I will let you know if I post a FLIR updated image on my website. I have not noticed any measurable temperature drops on many of my soldering tasks.

[@a1nelson]

@@jwrelectro Thanks. If you decide to perform the experiment, it would be interesting to see how different the thermal gradient is in open air versus on a PCB pad or the like (sinking heat). It’s good to know that your experiences have been so positive. On paper, the FX-951 has less power than my trust, older iron. But, my suspicion is that the 951 will be able to deliver a lot more heat to the point where it’s really needed. Cheers. Edit: I should mention that I performed this experiment on my old, ceramic heated iron. I found that the iron regulated just about perfectly in open air, but would then drop off dramatically under load. With the most accurate test I could devise, it looked like the ceramic element was staying right at 400C +/-5C. However, after heating up a pad on an 0805 resistor that was _not connected to a ground or power plane, the tip temp would drop as low as 265C. All three conditions were measured with a thermal couple that I had already characterized and calibrated.

[@christopherdounis6729]

Fantastic review....could you also please indicate where you sourced the board stand and component leg tool (red) in your video? Again, this was a great review, thank you.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you liked the video. The board stand is the PanaVise Model 201. Not sure where I got the red bending lead tool, have had it for years. You can find similar tools, just use the search string: "electronic component lead bending tool" on either Amazon or Ebay. The PanaVise is also available on Amazon just enter the name and model. Hope this helps.

[@christopherdounis6729]

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I appreciate it.

[@Gamer__007]

Great review.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you liked it , thank you.

[@rosevan5485]

Thank you for excellent review. Amazing !

[@jwrelectro]

Thank you, very happy you enjoyed it.

[@BurnOmatic]

really appreciate the hard work put into this review thank you.

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks, glad you like the video.

[@MrChurch69]

Will you be my dad

[@jwrelectro]

LOL

[@BeanoJosh]

Great in-depth review. I bought this kit and I also think the printed manual sucks big ween.

[@jwrtiger]

Glad you liked the video. I hope it gave you some useful additional information that was not covered in the manual/paper.

[@BeanoJosh]

@@jwrtiger - Thank you! It did! 🙂

[@richiow68]

Why say sodder when it’s solder.. There’s a letter L in this word

[@jwrelectro]

I just think it sounds better ; )

[@marka.200]

Still a very useful video, I am buying one of these, still the current model.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you found the video helpful. I just checked the Hakko site and it still shows the FX-951 so I think it is still the current model with these features.

[@marka.200]

Yes, I now have one on the way from Amazon, pretty decent deal, got the whole shebang including 5 tips for $308. I added some additional grips of various colors, something I would not have thought of without your video, so again, thanks! I notice you havent' done any new videos for a couple of years, did you lose interest? Meanwhile looks like there are plenty of videos in your library I haven't seen so that should keep me busy. I also look at a couple of other EE channels, like EEVBlog (he's fun but I can only take so much of his voice) and Mr Carlson's Lab. Man, what I wouldn't have given for this kind of information and expertise on tap when I was a young man.

[@boonedockjourneyman7979]

It’s a shame you quit. You’re very good at this.

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks you for the kind comment and glad you enjoyed it.

[@leftofsanity]

Thanks for the video. Can you post a video or pics of the wiring of the handset and the Pin connector? That crap is NOWHERE to be found on the Internet. I contacted HAKKO and they wont help. Thanks for your time.

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you liked the video. I think most of the information you requested is in this video. Please check out this video at 20:49, 21:14, and 25:13. 20:49 shows the connections in the soldering iron. Pin 1 has the green ground wire. Pin 2 is the black wire (power sensor). Pin 3 is the red wire (other power sensor connection). The LED is the white wire and a bare wire on the other side that is not shown. As mentioned there is a 100 nF capacitor connected across pins 2 and 3 for noise suppression. 21:14 shows the wires connected to the DIN plug and 25:13 shows all the wire coloring coding on the DIN connector. Please note that the NC in the pictorial means those three pins are Not Connected. Not sure about the blue wire. I do not have a schematic and I have not reversed engineered the circuit. Hope this helps.

[@leftofsanity]

jwrelectro thanks for that. Can you make out where that white wire is connected on the handle end?

[@jwrelectro]

It is wired to the black solder cartridge connector. A small bare wire goes from that point to the black wire. Not sure what it does. Maybe someone else can add a comment.

[@blahblahblahblah2933]

The last one is a 10k thermistor for cold junction compensation of thermocouple. The other side is connected via the common (black).

[@nhojyelbom]

bosnian bill!

[@joehubler4965]

no new videos? Are you coming back?

[@jwrelectro]

Hate to promise anything but my health is much better and if possible I would like to create more videos. Thanks for asking.

[@Ak-ib3wy]

Can you use the fm2027 for microsoldering?

[@jwrelectro]

Adam, I have very little experience in micro-soldering so others may help answer your question. I know several have said that they are successful using the FM-2027 for micro-soldering and I would think it would work in many situations. As you probably know Hakko has the FM-2032 geared more for micro-soldering and I just got that soldering iron. The FM-2032 is a 48 watt soldering iron that uses T30 tips. The two tips I have are the T30-D1 and T30-J. The FM-2032 is also smaller/thinner for getting into tight places and The T30-D1 has a flat tip width of 0.2mm while there are ten D styled tips for the FM-2027 with 0.5mm - 1.2 mm flat tip widths. So I would personally try using the FM-2027 for micro-soldering and if problems arise consider the FM-2032.

[@Ak-ib3wy]

@@jwrelectro Thanks for the response, new to this

[@draw7621]

Fantastic clip. Thanks. I actually bought the real Hakko unit (US 110V) and immediately plugged it in to my UK mains (220V) without thinking. Blew the fuse, replaced that and now connected to step down transformer but it still won't work. Can only assume I've blown a component or 2 on the board... I'm a chemical engineer by trade and fairly novice at electronics but looking to learn. If you were to make the same mistake I did... would you be able make a guess at the components most likely to blow?!!! Would help me out a heck of a lot since at the moment it's going to be 10 hours of me poking around with a multimeter! Thanks!

[@jwrelectro]

Sorry to hear about the problem. Yeah it was probably not very happy at twice the source voltage. I am not very good at troubleshooting but it might be nice to make a video on at least the little I know about the subject. One problem is I am not aware of any schematic diagram for the unit. It could be reverse engineered but that is a bit of an undertaking. My first suggestion is a visual inspection looking for overheated components, blown components and or traces on the PCB. You could look up the processor voltage requirements and check those as a divide-and-conquer approach. If that shows wrong or no voltage check the power supply. It is easy to check the secondary voltage of the xformer and also usually those two large electronics on the PCB are probably filters for the supply so check the voltage across them. The full-wave bridge is rated at a very high voltage and current so I would think it could survive the higher voltage. Since it is blowing a fuse you have probably a major failure with something drawing a lot of current. Although the actual repair maybe low cost. Those are a couple of ideas and best of luck.

[@draw7621]

Thanks. Its not blowing the fuse any more (which makes me think its likely not drawing current at all, though I'm considering trying to hook it up to a digital power supply to check the draw and confirm my hypothesis). If this is confirmed, its probably fair to assume the power is routing to ground, and therefore maybe a capacitor is blown on the board. Putting time aside at the weekend to troubleshoot!

[@draw7621]

On visual inspection I see nothing obvious on the board. I have a microscope though so I'll check it with that and hopefully I'll come across something!

[@jwrelectro]

@@draw7621 Best of luck and please post it you resolve the problem.

[@draw7621]

Thanks mate!

[@danecthompson]

Outstanding! Much appreciated.

[@jwrelectro]

You're welcome.

[@michaelregan427]

Wow this is a great video, thanks!

[@jwrelectro]

You are more than welcome and glad you enjoyed it.

[@freeksuout]

Very well done video! Excellent review.

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks, glad you liked it. I also liked your Millennium Falcon.

[@khaldrogo9451]

Thanks so much for such a detailed review and setup, I was having a hard time following the manual. :)

[@jwrelectro]

Glad you found the video helpful. I wasn't happy with the supplied manual either but there are better manuals available online. I am sure you will enjoy your new soldering station.

[@BGary1980]

Спасибо, очень интересный и приятный обзор. Nice work.

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks

[@mikecabral1579]

Very well done. Thanks

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for commenting Mike, glad you like it.

[@عبداللهخميس-ع9ض]

Good job keep claiming

[@jwrelectro]

Thanks for the comment.