15 Tips in 15 Minutes: Quick & Easy 3D Printing Tips

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

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[@Ninjon]

Daryl pro tip: Gargle with resin for maximum mixing prior to printing.

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

Daryl's mind is truly a well of infinite wisdom. (This is a joke for those unaware).

[@AirCactus_]

The day after this comment was posted: Half the people that print with resin mysteriously died.

[@treaustin1]

I just got my first printer. I love seeing channels like yours which use the hobby to actually do something interesting and useful. Your content is great!

[@LylaMev]

Great video!

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

Thank you so much, Lyla!

[@TheEnd]

Thanks for the advice Danny.

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

Any time!

[@jake360flip]

With Hairspray make sure its unscented. Scented hairspray has perfume in and perfume has essential oils in. Oil = non stick 3d lac is fantastic because it's basically hairspray (but its more expensive)

[@billcurran7210]

Man that tool kit makes everything so much easier and more organized. Mine is also stored in an old PLA box, and has some of my expendable items in there as well - nozzles, tubing, etc.

[@AndrewKarstaedt]

Thanks for these tips! Publix is the real MVP here.

[@ccarter1988]

Dude this video really hit home. I struggle with perfection IRL and with printing I found it even worse because you can see the flaws each time a print finishes. But in the end the fun is coming up with a cool print (or finding one) and brining it to life. Thanks for this video.

[@RobertSingers]

Interesting video. A little tip in return. If you have a coated bed - for example PEI - there's a good chance the coating is soluble in Isopropyl Alcohol. Cleaning the surface with Isopropyl Alcohol will cause it to absorb the alcohol and swell slightly. This interferes will adhesion and makes tramming harder. If you must use Isopropyl Alcohol leave it all to offgas before tramming.

[@RoseKindred]

I got into home 3D printing (and CAd/Blender) because there were no Maker Spaces around me. It led to my desire to create a mobile one that could be set up at the library for small projects and give demonstrations to people who may have only heard of the terms. While 3D printers may not be the best for a mobile space they could still run small prints to show off along with small laser engravers and CNCs. I wish more towns/states would invest in Maker Spaces, they can be a great introduction to STEM/STEAM for younger people.

[@dawnjackson5773]

This 3d printing has truly became a fun hobby for me.. I made the leap into resin printers now.. I found a way to vent out for my apt. So now we have 3 ender 3 pros and 1 Longer 30 orange... And we are now starting to get more people we know into both the gaming hobby because of it as well as mini painting and now 3d printing. I now at work while making people's food and drinks.. I get random people I don't know coming up to me saying I hear your the one I need to talk to about getting into 3d printing or one page rules games or minis. lol mostly thanks to Stefan my cashier... They like knows all of Ocala/Belleview gaming nerd scene.. the first thing I do is send them to yours, wyloch,and BMC videos Gobblertown hobbies.. if they done some painting I send them to Join and Scott's or Squidmar channel.... and give them what info I know .. Thank you for your channel opening up the gaming community to make it more affordable to people who thought they would never be able to play table to games like this by sharing your 3d printing journey. If you are ever in Belleview/Ocala area Danny stop by and Coffee is on me...!

[@3DMusketeers]

GREAT TIP RUNDOWN! And just the tips, mind you! I dont MIND hairspray but we do prefer to just keep the beds clean. For PEI flex plates we just wipe with Windex. I need to tour MakerFX again! Maybe one day soon!

[@Broeckchen]

"If this hobby doesn't make you happy, it's okay to move on and try out another hobby!" That's where I thought "auwww Danny's probably a great Dad" because especially with ADHD involved, it's so important to encourage a child to bump into walls and then change direction. To just... give permission to move on sometimes. Really wonderful to hear.

[@recka5000]

Foor adhesion I'd recommend, if you printer can support it, getting a dual-sided PEI sheet (one side textured, one smooth). I find with PLA, nothing adheres better as long as you wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol beforehand! Just be careful with flexibles and PETG, they will rips chunks from the smooth side of the PLA, but the textured side hasn't caused me problems. I can only speak for those 3 materials, but adhesion hasn't been an issue!

[@richmondrivet]

Great video! I also love when you guys(KZbinrs) get 'real'. Like when you mention it's OK to take a break now and then, and you even gave a reference saying you yourself have even taken months off before. I get it, sometimes you have to, in order to rekindle that interest and motivation.

[@nurtoothgaming3365]

While probably not as important, I found having something to put all the waste in near my fdm printer to be pretty help as well

[@smea87]

Thanks for the tips, grexdale looks sweet too

[@ONoCRJ]

3D print some dividers for your repair tool box! It will help keep it organized for when you desperately need that tool to prevent catastrophe!

[@HauntedCorpseGaming]

Good video, I use eSun filament as well, its really great, I usually set the line width to 0.25 and a 0.1mm layer height which seems to leave zero gaps and is extremely precise over the default with a 0.4mm nozzle.

[@yourlocaltoad5102]

Really good video! I kinda missed a point that said that people shouldn’t be afraid to modify their printers if they have issues with them. For example I run my Ender 3 in an enclosure under my desk which often distracted me while working, but once I installed some noctua fans this issue completely went away and instead I now keep catching myself checking if the printer is still running because I can’t even hear it anymore. Or I often was just so bothered by bed levelling that I procrastinated starting prints, but that went away once I ordered a bltouch-clone and now I have much more fun and no frustration with printing.

[@funx24X7]

Can confirm auto bed leveling is totally worth it. I got a CRtouch and it solved any issues I had with the stock ender 3 z-stop, and for that alone it was well worth the money.

[@wpherigo1]

You do such a great job! Hope you can release more videos, but I know life is busy!

[@thecamosoupbone1273]

As always love your videos. Your journey sounds exactly like mine over the Last 3 years. Destroyed 2 beds. Just a suggestion. I have been using Creality's spring steel pei bed on my ender 5 for 2 years now. No adhesion problems. Haven't had a print not stick in 2 years. No glues no sprays. Perfect. When the bed cools down it just pops off. No damage to pei sheet at all. Used G10 sheet as a test. Similar. No fails in adhesion. Fails is usually clogged nozzles for under extrusion. Esun pla+ is my go to. With petg I turn bed over and use glue stick to print directly on the steel. +++ For Reddit. Reddit saved me many times.

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

Sometimes ya find that build surface that just works. It's always with the full bed prints that I've found the real challenge, which is when the hairspray comes in handy for me. Thanks for the comment!

[@_thisisdavid]

Central Florida represent!!

[@natonegaming5934]

orlando? heck yeah! im over in Tampa

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

FL Gang report in ;)

[@jakeallen4892]

Man! I was so shocked when you pulled out the exact hairspray that I use 😂 how funny, I came to the very same conclusion that you did. Hairspray is the easiest and most effective by far in my opinion :)

[@DiceandDungeons]

Thank you. Great video. We are a relatively new content creator doing our own 3d printing and painting so these are great tips. I subscribed :)

[@jubb1984]

I have been building an enclosure for my Neptune 2s, for one of the points you were making, leaving the printing alone for a while. Will hopefully help with prints and most likely with dust buildup when I'm not using it. Also it's fun to print parts for stuff like that :)

[@Chip_Taco_Taco]

By building do you mean printing an enclosure? If so can it be found on thingiverse?

[@jubb1984]

@@Chip_Taco_Taco My brother made joints that could scale and fit plexiglass sheets i bought. So i printed the joints and fit/glued them together. I haven't uploaded the files yet sadly. Other then that i printed some hinges for the door.

[@Chip_Taco_Taco]

@@jubb1984 Very cool! Hopefully in the future you can upload the files

[@brianahawkins8124]

Oh my Sorcery this is Incredible!! See you on your next video. :D

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

Thank you!

[@cliffwood7386]

Thanks for the tips Danny! A YT tip back: it would be cool if this video was split into chapters, so when referencing this video viewers can jump back to a specific tip easily.

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

Check out the description :)

[@cliffwood7386]

@@3DPrintedTabletop Ah, caught me lacking. I've seen on other channels where the video progress bar is split into chapters, but honestly I don't know how to do it so I guess that's not really fair to expect lol. Thanks!

[@AustenHartley]

Awesome Video !!

[@jrdchemist]

I've been trying to find the model (dice tower/box?) that first shows up ~0:26. Looks fantastic, where is that from?

[@johnpalmer1684]

What are you using for your storage shelves you have your prints on? I'm looking for a similar shelving system.

[@richarddreadskull8427]

I recently saw a video where the tuber recommended using a 3in1 PTFE lubricant on the bottom on the resin vat to reduce the print sticking, what do you think?

[@Larront]

Hey Danny, really interested in the 3D printed upgrades it looks like you've added to your printer (e.g. the belt tightening mechanism). Do you have a list of all of those somewhere / ones you might think are uber helpful? Thanks for all the tips!

[@travails3829]

Nice tips! Could I ask what are the trees at 13:49?

[@Dan-ed1sk]

Hay mate, just got an ender 3 V2, just wondering if you have a profile you could share to get me started with minis? Preferably one for a 0.2mm nozzle? Cheers!

[@fatpigeon8297]

Hello first time buyer/user... looking mainly to make table top miniatures. Can't decide between Anycubic Mono 4k and Elegoo Mars 3... Quality and ease of use matter most. What do you think?!

[@MrBadgers]

If you have a good bed/bed material and tune your adhesion you never need additives like glue or spray, try powdercoated PEI on spring steel. Spend a buck save a tenner.

[@alexherrera3918]

I want to buy an A1 ( my first 3d printer) after watching one of your videos however My family ( wife and 12y son) is very sensitive to smells, chemical vapors, allergens, and micro particles in the air. I live in TX and the relative humidity inside on my house is 60% and outside is about 70% to 90%. Do you know any health issues that result from melting the filaments on the 3D printer ( smells, VOC, microparticles) ? I hope you can comment. Thanks Alex

[@zombiekiller553]

Where did you get that case from? Could you like us a video or where to find it? Thanks!!

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Look at that sweet ass shirt. I need one of those sweet ass shirts.

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

I gotchu my man: www.bonfire.com/store/3d-printed-tabletop/

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Picked up that gelatinous cube shirt!!!

[@gladiatormechs5574]

can you tell me what the best calibration height the nozzle should be using a standard piece of paper 20 LB... i use a basic business card as a feel gage but that is what i have been doing.

[@jrdchemist]

Mindful printing? NO!!! Gotta print ‘em all!! 😆

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

Then be ready to rent a storage unit :D

[@owenc_84]

Love your videos man you are my favorite youtuber(first btw lol)

[@keithhuckfield7783]

Pleas help me, I keep getting blockages, fairly certain it is my retraction settings. I am using PLA+ on a Neptune 2S and have tried various settings and it just keeps blocking, every other setting seems fine.

[@RoseKindred]

What brand PLA+ are you having issues with? I have an N2S as well but never had a clog. Silk PLA/PLA+ I find is temperamental and it can change with the color used. I have to use high temps on some of the silk filaments. I use the default slicer settings mainly on the .15 fine setting and just change the layer height and infill plus a few quality of life boxes. Also, check the tolerance of the filament, it should say online or on the package. It may not seem like much, but if they list the tolerance at 1.75 .03mm +/- or higher I have to increase the temperature to make sure it is fully melted before being extruded. .02mm +/- seems to work perfectly for me. 190 for "standard" PLA filament, 210 for PLA+ /multicolor/shiny, and Silk (and the Silk PLA+ that I think was mislabeled) is typically up to 230 but I am going to try lower temp and speed at 50mm/s. *Edit* I typed the wrong temps I generally use.

[@keithhuckfield7783]

@@RoseKindred thank you for replying, it is Maker’s Warehouse PLA+ in basic black, I have set the heat to 210 for first layer and then 205 for subsequent layers, printing at 50mm/s. I had it at 200 initially but it wasn’t doing the job and the person who recommended the filament recommended those temps. If you are using a lot of the default settings, I might scale back the changes I made and see how I get on, it is interesting that you have better results at 190 for PLA+, though.

[@RoseKindred]

@@keithhuckfield7783 Oops, I meant to type just PLA for the 190 and I use 210 for the PLA+ and multicolor/shiny PLA and Silk 220-230 depending on color and if PLA+. Although I am starting to think that the Silk PLA+ was mislabeled. I tried to look up the specs on the PLA+ you used, but cannot find much about it, all their PLA+ are missing product information. How is your nozzle, newish or worn? Did you go smaller than what it was shipped with? Sorry, I cannot be more help, I have never used that filament. Others on forums have suggested the cold pull method to clean out the junk left behind with additives in special PLA/PLAs, I do that occasionally after running the special PLAs. Not quite the Prusa method but close to it. Seems cheaper than using cleaning filament. To me, it almost sounds like the filament cannot fully heat before coming out, almost as if due to residue left behind from past prints. For example, I used blue silk on a long print and that had to be printed at 230, my next print was a standard grey pla, about 30 mins into it I heard a skipping extruder. The grey started to come out thicker with specs of blue. About 9ish hours after the print ended I pulled the filament and there was still blue dotting the pulled PLA.

[@keithhuckfield7783]

@@RoseKindred that’s OK, you are being really helpful. So I have had the printer for about a month so the nozzle is new, I am thinking of using a temp probe to check nozzle temperature is what it is reporting, as that does make sense. The nozzle is the stock 0.4 that comes with it, it came with several spares so I might change it just to be sure. What do you do with regards to retraction? I think this is the area I am struggling with. I might also change slit sticks at 210 for the whole print as I wonder if dropping to 205 isn’t hot enough for the PLA.

[@RoseKindred]

@@keithhuckfield7783 Only a month? Yea, that nozzle should still be great. I mean it is possible you have a defect but I doubt it. I would also recommend emailing Elegoo about what settings they recommend and include the filament stats and your issue. It may take a few days but they do seem to help people according to the forums. Do you use material settings in Cura? If so, ask that person who suggested the material what their settings are. When I just compared eSuns PLA+ retraction and other numbers it was different than the default PLA material profile I use, such as the retraction for PLA 70 instead of 40 with PLA+. I do not see your brand listed, but you can create a profile for it if that person gives you their numbers. I have only been using the Generic PLA settings and I increase temps manually on the machine for each print. I did update the Cura software (it takes out the N2S if you do this, I had to go to redddit to find out how to get the N2S files back on with Ultimate Cura V4_13_1) and the machine has performed better. If you do update the software you can use the Ender 3 profile till you add in the N2S but it would just be better to follow a guide, copy the files, and get the N2S back. Oh, and then there are a few steps to get the image preview back on the machine when you insert the card. I can list the thread titles if you want to update Cura and have it look like Elegoo's Cura.

[@MADEIN3DPRINTING]

❤️❤️

[@andytravieso03]

So I want to ask for some opinions on what 3D printer I should buy, this will be my first 3D printer and this is a hobby I have really been wanting to get into. So initially I was looking into buying the new Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro, I considered this one as it comes with many features that would be seen as upgrades for other printers, and I am not one to want to have to upgrade my 3D as I'd prefer to have every feature right out of the box. This is a big thing for me, as I could see myself using various types of filaments in the future. Also from what I've seen, the print quality of the Ender 3 S1 pro is one of the best. However, the factors that are making me hesitant about this printer is its print size, it is only 220x, 220y, by 270z in mm (millimeters) and its price range. Its price is currently at $479, which is very pricey and it is over budget for me, but it is still a doable purchase. What would be a perfect printer for me would be one that has a bigger build area with a print quality similar to that of the Ender 3 S1 pro and preferably one that is under $400. I have looked into Creality CR 10 3D printer, and it looks very promising and it is significantly cheaper that the Ender 3 S1 pro, but I still don't know exactly. As I said all opinions are welcome, its just that this has been an overwhelming process, as there are so many printers to look into and choose from, and I want to make sure I make the right purchase.

[@yourlocaltoad5102]

The smaller bed size of the Ender 3 S1 (and other Ender 3-models) is big enough for about 99% of the models out there, but if you want a bigger printer the CR10 is a great choice. I personally run an Ender 3 (which is basically just a smaller CR10) with the bed springs replaced for silicone buffers, a cheap bltouch clone and a cheap direct drive kit. Just judging by what you write here, I‘d recommend that you get a CR10 and a bltouch kit (make sure it’s cable is long enough) and the silicone buffers. The bltouch will automatically level the bed before every print and prevent you from having to manually level the bed. For it to work you will have to flash new firmware, that you can find on the Creality website and flashing is very easy and doesn’t take any special skills to do. The silicone buffers will prevent any possible wobble in the bed that could cause layer shifts. If you want to print bigger models, getting some 0,6mm nozzles would also be a good idea as those will significantly speed up your print times. And if you ever want to print flexible filament like TPU, a direct drive upgrade is needed, but if you won’t be playing around with tpu, I‘d not get it as it will make the Hotend heavier an force you to slow down your print speeds to prevent ringing or other artifacts from showing up on your models. Hope this helps

[@1bonebreaker1]

i currently have 1,28 TB of files :D

[@makewithmegma]

🔥💕👌👍

[@andrecook4268]

Noice.

[@CRV1876]

my 3d printer auto levels

[@TredecimMusic]

116th.

[@MoragTong_]

Print on glass and you won't need a hairdresser. Been printing for 5 years and never once used any adhesives....ever.

[@0rgullonacional]

This are not printing tips... this are just like your goals and ideas with the prints... I thought you would share configurations and settings.

[@andy-in-indy]

Last

[@pjpaella]

Good tips. Tip of my own: the background music is distracting and unnecessary.