$150 SPL Challenge? Maximum Boom for Minimum Cost [4K]

[@wadehensley5005]

140db from 132 bucks worth of equipment and 360 watts is damn impressive, from any standpoint.

[@wal]

Yeah boi!

[@dudndadn12212]

Goes to show ya that the box is what makes it.

[@Crushonius]

@@dudndadn12212 not really the box is not even made for the woofers . in this case its not the box that makes it but that he got 4 12s for such a low price . 4 12s have about the same piston area as 2 18s that a lot of moving air even though they do not have some massive spl like excursion .

[@tinytrax1978]

Don’t forg

[@tinytrax1978]

Don’t forget the $3,000 battery bank power supply

[@midniteoyl8913]

Every time you show off some underrated cheap gear the price goes up the very next day..

[@wal]

Dang it!!

[@tyronepatterson5092]

Lol yup that is true

[@rodneygreenway982]

@@wal it's true. Jus checked out the ignite amp. Went up $15 on amazon.

[@murrayent1able]

Yeap, I go on Amazon and check and like you said the price is higher than what he said.

[@djbradz7453]

It is known

[@wal]

$150 SPL Challenge Rules / Results: 12voltmag.com/2019-150-spl-challenge/ Everyday Audios: kzbin.info HiFiVega: kzbin.info ShowTimeSPL: kzbin.info Gear used for my setup: 12" Blaupunkt Subwoofers: is.gd/blau12subwoofer Polk PA D2000.2 Amplifier: amzn.to/2Pps3Ze

[@ilovetoyotatrucks]

Williston Audio Labs im so doing this i will spend $100 or less on 2 subs & i bought a used Pioneer 800watts RMS 1ohm stable Pioneer MONO block & i got a OLD bandpass box 4th order bandpass is custom made so ill measure it for tunning and replace the missing plexiglass with 3/16ths i hope! Might need 1/4 im unsure

[@ghostunspeakable7866]

Anybody try those 10 inch titan subs they got at parts express for like $10.50 ? Old school flea market glitter subs.

[@ilovetoyotatrucks]

Ghost Unspeakable id say the pyle / BOSS/ lanzar/ ssl/blaupunk/ DUAL/ planet audio/insert direct from china sub are all built a tad bit better than those old paper cones id say those titans are simply midrange subs with a subwoofer surround imo!

[@toveryonder1115]

2 ohm?

[@ghostunspeakable7866]

@@toveryonder1115 they are 4 ohm. With a plastic cone. I think about 87db 200w.... But for $150 you could get a dozen of them.

[@jasonneal]

So as you know, going to a lower ohm load, your THD raises. So I would try a higher frequency. Also, if your just going for SPL, open your LP filter all the way or run the amp in full range. Also, put a oscilloscope on your head unit on the frequency your running to see where it clips at so you know not to run the volume past that. Distortion will give you a lower SPL reading.

[@shanenon85hawkins35]

Love how you just do things for fun that’s the hole point having fun and loving what you do keep it up

[@LerRhann]

Whole.

[@wal]

yeah boi!

[@LadrilloCuantico]

That's it !

[@reynellsantee147]

If you think this is just for fun, take a look at how many views he has, It's All About the Benjamins lol!! This man is getting rich off of you, just from you watching .

[@lastatmyownpace3497]

Yep

[@thenotoriousrvh6091]

Dang lmao you had enough left over to include the Blaupunkt head unit 😂

[@depthsounderdave]

Mine gets here Thursday!

[@wal]

Ha, head units don’t account in $150 price

[@Corrosion37]

I have enough for one in my couch cushions

[@timmturner]

@@depthsounderdave I got mine a few days ago, haven't installed it though.

[@alec-s]

They sounds great...

[@HifiVega]

140db! Mission accomplished

[@wal]

Yeah boi!

[@bigboycombo6342]

Lol, not bad. I use to hit 126 when competing in 0 to 100 watt pro a long time ago.

[@test123apt]

Remember when Alma Gates had the world record bronco at 144db??? My how times have changed!

[@MyMediaConsulting]

I thought she hit 164 with the first PPI truck.

[@djshedd77]

@Shane DriftKing M3 Turner yeah... 144 is not that loud. I consider something to be "loud" when it reaches the 150 mark. 150db is a respectable number and 160+ is when you know someone's system is serious

[@audiophilecole2994]

@@djshedd77 144 is very loud compared to 99% of the nutsacks out there that think they are loud. Though they have systems that do Mid/High 130's with the factory door speakers playing with 10% distortion. Side note I do agree that LOUD starts with a "hair trick". Real close to 150db

[@richardgingras1293]

170$ including shipping on amazon for the amp now. Polk should slip you some thank you money for spiking their sales.

[@wal]

Wow, madness! Polk, just send me my check now 👈😬

[@CompressedSoup]

less db more power consumption because of clipping probably

[@philmissy1]

more power consumption due to clipping? clipping by definition means your out of power. So no soup boi not at all. Once a systems max output is reached just to gain an extra 3dB requires twice the power. Still hasnt explained the lose but heat and inefficiency would. An efficiant amp turns 100% of the power in to power output. Impossible. Cheap amps ran at around 80-90% efficiency. The higher wattage just translates into heat clipping and disstorion in the output signal. The magical at 1%distortion rating is used for a reason. Every amp is capable of exceeding power output above it but the output degrades rapidly.

[@jimeppright7862]

Peaks are clipped but the average power increases. Sounds rough, but some like it.

[@dontrustwhiteyevery1]

Bet the protect light came on.

[@kevinlechner7722]

Maybe he peaked for like a fraction of a second but not enough time for enough pressure to build up inside?

[@robertkurtz7587]

Kevin Lechner had to be a burp then went into protect

[@legendsofcaraudiobradnewso8424]

LMAO!!! Amp is rated at 4 ohm bridged, I am going to run it at 1 ohm! EPIC! :)

[@wal]

Ha ha, these new fangeled amps should be able to handle it, right? :-)

[@legendsofcaraudiobradnewso8424]

Williston Audio Labs exactly! Lol

[@watevz221]

And changed the fuses 😂😂😂🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

[@blackz06]

IF you understood "box rise", you wouldn't find it so funny.

[@dylansmed4305]

@@blackz06 please explain it. And why it's not funny

[@dudeparistx]

I had a shop in Paris, Tx for 13 years. I sure do miss this industry. love your vids.

[@tankdog03ify]

I liked this video because your learning and teaching.. I enjoy this type of stuff

[@reganmorben9248]

Been at this since 88, 2 Things you can do to improve SPL with that box and in that type of vehicle. 1). Port it properly. You will EASILY pick up 3db just by porting/tuning that box properly. Those are port caps, they are meant to have an ABS or cardboard tube slipped over them which is trimmed to the correct length to make a port, they by themselves are not really supposed to be ports. I'm going to guess by looking... that the ports you'll eventually need will be close to 5 - 5.5 inches long. 2). Stand the box up, move it as far toward the front of the vehicle as you can, and point it to the rear with the ports at the top. The angle of the rear window will reflect the sound down into the hatch area where (as you know every time a low frequency sound wave bounces it matures) you will benefit more fully from "cabin gain" than if you put the port on the bottom and significantly more than if you faced the box forward. I expect you could be seeing 144 - 146db pretty easily. I'll lend you an HCCA 2100 for $50 lol!

[@Ebacherville]

I modeled these Blaupunkt's and guessed at his box dimensions and port size based on the data in the video his port air speed at full watts with these drivers are crazy high (off the chart high).. these subs are not reccommanded ported.. the only way to port them and get acceptable results are much much larger ports to prevent breakdown of the tune with the port airspeed..

[@staywhite6332]

@@Ebacherville You have something set wrong.

[@staywhite6332]

He's already peaking in a nice, high freq to get decent numbers out of those. Shorter port designs tend to peak way better for spl, so, his ports are pretty good, really. Personally, I would have done 1 common chamber, one larger port about that same length. But, this looks like an obvious old school box from the 90s when we often did double ports per chamber.

[@ryry7886]

@Chuck Holmes sub positionig makes a huge difference

[@ryry7886]

@Chuck Holmes "bass is non-directional"...? lol

[@floydbeard5073]

140 Is what your goal was Big D. Excellent job buddy not bad for a cheap budget build 🤙 thanks for the video and your time.

[@wal]

This was a FUN video for me to make and gave me ideas of future challenges where I can include you guys. This way we can all participate!

[@floydbeard5073]

@@wal sounds like a plan in the making.

[@TheBrokenLife]

Wired at 1ohm, set the volume on high, pause the track, power the amp up, and then just burp it. If you actually get that 950w for 1/2 second of full output, you should be good. Back in the day guys used to run their A/C on high forever to get the amps cold too. I think that was mostly superstition, but a bag of ice would be fun to try. All you need is that 1/2 second...

[@wal]

I tried this and it didn't work. I think the amp goes into protect before the meter measures. I'm going to get a TermLab to try as I've been putting off getting one for a long time now....and it's time to step up my game

[@robertpinger2537]

The problem with that is when you wire below stable load, the protection circuitry goes into effect when the rail capacity exceeds a certain limit. This is why “burp guys” typically do a “slow roll up” so that the ohm load can safely increase to a limit the amplifier will allow

[@JustSub2Me]

Yeah and you're right people sitting there running your AC that's not going to do nothing but draw current and pull power away from your system because unless he's got the amp mounted on the dash lol those AC vents are not going to do nothing later bro

[@pissedoffconservative347]

@@robertpinger2537 very intellagent comment. 100% correct . When we burp at .25 ohm Some times our rolls take 20 seconds to give impedance time to rise.

[@JustSub2Me]

@Buick Regal I agree with you but if you're competing your amps only going to be running for a minute or two tops. Because most people who burp don't demo

[@FinsleysCustomCarAudio]

Never thought about checking sub phase like that. Thank you for teaching me that.

[@Akira_203]

Less db probably a result of mismatched refresh intervals in the equipment. If the AMM1 is refreshing every 100ms but the dbMeter is refreshing ever 500ms you get weird results.

[@crazylarryjr]

That's what i was thinking to, latency actually or mismatched latency might be the cause

[@LerRhann]

This is the correct answer.

[@johnhornbeak5735]

Is there a standard refresh rate of most class D ? Or is it a factor of the quality of the power supply (Example: JL vs cheap SSL amps??

[@D4rk51d332]

@@johnhornbeak5735 They're talking about the how often the test equipment measures, not anything to do with the amplifier. Basically the refresh on the sound meter was slower than the refresh on the power meter. That is why it only showed 137db on 900 watts, if Big D would have let it play a second longer the meter would have probably read higher DB.

[@1Techoner1]

Why would it be designed that way. I'm slightly confused.

[@twinkyunouwantmycreamfilli8297]

Well done. Just for the sake of it, that budget gem amp from dual might be worth considering. Good vid as always.

[@propabilityfpv303]

I saw a friend put the drill with the screwdriver bit right through his brand new 12" fosgate lol

[@bradleypass2916]

Big D does a awesome job and is very informative about all of his test and information

[@Gambleraddictz]

This shows the Box is everything

[@wal]

This box wasn’t designed for these subs though. It was one I had sitting around. Surely could’ve got a better score with the optimal box

[@ParkerTheBasshead]

Love it! Can't wait to see you hit that 150db

[@wal]

Throw that meter in the port and I’m there 😜

[@ParkerTheBasshead]

Williston Audio Labs 🤫 I won’t tell anyone 😂

[@redan420]

Man I love this channel. Crazy how much money I wasted in the early 90's buying junk before saving up to buy a Fosgate Power 300 and Punch subs. It was worth its weight in gold but also cost about it's weight in gold back in the day. Keep up the good work!

[@miguel300ish]

Hade to take a long crapper at work to see this video lmao lol

[@depthsounderdave]

Same

[@wal]

Way TMI..

[@GodfreyMasters]

This is honestly what I like to watch. Great video bro.

[@buelliganx1]

That's what it's all about, having fun. Reminds me of back in the day scrounging together whatever we could get cheap just to see what it would do.

[@modelnutty6503]

WAY BACK, 1983, built cabs for a pair of 12's from an old console stereo and the 2x8" horns that went with them. old school under dash equalizer+amp feeding about 16w/ch, loudest little Mazda GLC ya ever seen, lmao!

[@buelliganx1]

@@modelnutty6503 I remember using two pyramid 10's and a scrap little sparkomatic power booster to make a pretty nice system. Used to piss people off when they would search my car for a hidden amp and all they could find was that crazy little booster. Lol

[@SparkedEd]

BLAUUUU. Thanks for the shout out my dude

[@wal]

👌😬👍

[@MrShiffles]

Nice test! I was predicting around the 140db range and you nailed it :) I bet if you played with the port sizes some you might find a better tuning to squeeze out another db or 2...or build a beastly 4th/6th order for even more...Cheers!

[@ChrisWilson999]

The lower SPL measurement was because the amp went to protect mode before the SPL meter had accumulated enough samples to display the next value. The SMD power meter would also have likely shown more power than it did. You can use an oscilloscope on a hall effect sensor to monitor power usage and will see higher peak values. On the SPL side, the meter works by taking an average value over a short period of time. If the amp goes to protect before it can calculate the next value, you won't see the peak measurement.

[@wal]

👍

[@runningbear1982]

That 9-volt tricks pretty slick there.

[@johnjaromack9530]

Complete car audio noob here-thanks for the speaker phase tip. I feel like an idiot for not thinking of that myself. 🥴

[@jameselam8263]

Your measuring spl so the smaller the cabin the higher the pressure. Try raising the box up on a platform or making a temporary wall with some paneling. This will reduce the air space of the cabin.

[@wal]

Great tips, thanks!

[@Djexoticdancing69]

Sweet 12inch set up bro, thanks for sharing & for the education sound test & systems 👌👍👌👍👌👍👌💪

[@wal]

Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@mackdurff8107]

The dampening factor of most amps is dramatically lowered when the ohm load is dropped. The loss of control of the subwoofers with increased distortion and loss of ability of the amp to deal with what the subs were reading back to it would limit its control to hold a pure tone.

[@johnraymaker5885]

I'm pretty sure he knows what he's doing dude

[@aaronschen9896]

Just discovered your channel big D. Good stuff, takes me back.

[@wal]

Awesome! Glad to have you hear brother!

[@lmadden6236]

One of your best videos! I imagine you would gain with them facing the hatch, maybe 10" away.

[@wal]

Thanks for da tip!

[@chuckshipley9917]

Please don't roast me but, I had a situation where my garage sub, powered by a Dayton Audio 500 plate sub amp, disintegrated (origanal J B L) a pinch with another garage party looming, I bought a Lanzar 12in as just a plug-in for a temporary cheap solution. A year-and-a-half later it's still in that enclosure and it sounds f****** fantastic still. More importantly, it has earned my trust. This from a guy that was a JL Audio snob.

[@jamesmartin3533]

That nine volt battery trick is pretty cool!

[@wal]

Make sure those subs are in phase!

[@Butrdtostngravy]

Maybe have Mark at Car Audio Fabrication see if he can built you a box for the specs of those subs xD

[@wal]

That's a great idea!

[@modelnutty6503]

it'd definitely help a bunch. even doing calculations for THAT box and reworking the ports could do good things.

[@joeblank3235]

Clipping, once you go to high your speakers don't understand a square sine wave... It does more to hold at a point than move the speaker to a nice curve

[@wal]

But they are round? Not square. Ha, that was a joke! Thanks for commenting!

[@charliewilson3369]

Thanks Big D for answering my question.

[@bruceborneman]

It goes to show that you don't have to sell a kidney to get some bass! I'm thinking about putting two of those in my 2005 dodge ram quad cab! It helps when you are trying to talk the wife into letting you do something like this that the cost isn't so much! Thank you so much for doing this! Great channel man!

[@myz06rocks]

Even better would have been a comparison "taste test" style... Person picks their favourite. A $150 budget build and custom box vs. a $1000 big box retail store setup with subs amp and enclosure.

[@wal]

I see all kinds of possibilities for future challenges 🤙

[@zachjohnson1]

So you expect Wiz to pay $1k to a shop for a setup just for your viewing pleasure? What exactly would that accomplish?

[@myz06rocks]

@@zachjohnson1 did I say had to be his? Or that it couldn't be demo equipment? Or that it couldn't be that of an acquaintance? Relax...was just an idea. If I am deemed responsible for Big D's financial insolvency I promise I will assist.

[@toveryonder1115]

Ssl makes a $30 12 with a fs of 30hz, 90db 1w@1m, 400 watts rms.

[@mrupholsteryman]

Have a link for this? I couldn't find that same price....

[@blazed85]

They're $70 Canadian for the 12", $32 Canadian for the 8". Cheapest on Amazon.

[@toveryonder1115]

@@blazed85 amazon is not the site you are looking for

[@RWL2012]

@@toveryonder1115 what IS...?

[@blazed85]

@@toveryonder1115 for Canada that is the cheapest out of any site that I found with shipping factored in.

[@mattsnider5904]

That enclosure looks professionally made and looks like a nice clean install! Subwoofers = toys lol. It's fun booming and making your neighbors angry lol.

[@wal]

I don’t make my neighbors angry 😝

[@mattsnider5904]

@@wal Basshead harmony, right on

[@haroldhaynesiii]

IF only we could have this back when we were in High School :P

[@JustSub2Me]

Go ahead and put one of the Orion beast on there or one of the PPI pc2350 power class let's get them things moving old school Power! Congratulations on the Channel Growing let's keep this old-school thing alive!!

[@wal]

Yessir, you know I'm gonna keep throwing in that old school love!

[@JustSub2Me]

@@wal Where did you get that meter from if you don't mind me asking?

[@Latinsonido]

Love to see you competing on the 150$ challenge bud, i´m corrently in 2nd place with a 149.1 dbs on 148$ system :)

[@wal]

Killing it 👌

[@keaton_mcrae]

Latinsonido what’s the setup you got?

[@Latinsonido]

@@keaton_mcrae powerbass 10" 275w sub and stetsom 1600w amp wired at 4 ohms, did over 145 on 95$ using a 400.2 powerbass amplifier too, my ports are made by baby milk cans btw lol

[@CVM222VOLT]

If you were my neighbor, I would show up with Pizza, soda, beer ... everytime I heard you experimenting with gear. I got into car audio as a teenager in the late 70s. I remember Blaupunk as that German brand that came as OEM in Porsche and a few other high end German cars. Never would have thought that name would be associated with dirt cheap gear in the future

[@Newschoolcovers]

9:04 The power compression of the drivers probably takes effect. The amp is clipping, which causes the avg signal to increase from sine (crest 1.414) to square (crest 1). Accordingly, the coils of the drivers become very warm, the impedance increases and the efficiency decreases further. This also happens on the amp side, where the power supply outputs less on the output side as the switching power supply collapses. This then draws more current, but loses efficiency.

[@sterlingtemple]

Thanks for driving the Polk audio amp price UP!!!!!! ha ha

[@wal]

Oh lawd! No deal is safe!!

[@vincentmeredith2561]

More than likely the subs were over worked at the higher watt causing distortion at the subs so they didnt work as efficiently?

[@thetruthhurts4054]

Man you guys went next level . I had 4 punch pro 15s 1 linear power 1000 4 punch pro 10s on mid base on a linear power 500 and 4 linear power 1752s on mids and highs and got only 140s to 142 dbs. Back in the day. Ofcourse we were dodging dinosaurs back then. :-).

[@MrBensmith8302]

Impedance matching is why you get less power at 1ohm. The amp is stereo and designed for 4ohm bridged. But its always fun to try pushing the limits!

[@wal]

Yeah, why not? For science 🧪

[@Guiltless765]

Very nice as usual Big D 🍺

[@wal]

Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@Guiltless765]

@@wal Always..Thank you for all you do for the car audio community.Us old dude's appreciate it.

[@motoman22atgmail]

Put the old Power 1000 on 'em in the end. Make smoke.

[@wal]

That would wake them up for sure!

[@cloudy4872]

Finally someone who uses hearing protection!

[@madjimms]

My 180dB 44,000hz test tone will make your brain explode.

[@jeremih2969]

I wanted to hear a song...

[@GRNDZRO13]

I gotta ask Big D, what app you using on your phone for the SPL?

[@disabledvet420]

its not an app, he has a meter in the car, but it connects to the phone for a read out. the black box on passenger floor i think is where i saw it

[@jeffrankin9744]

Awesome budget boom.

[@wal]

Yeah boi

[@ruikazane5123]

Probably the less DB is because the amplifier is cutting the output and clips the signal in the process. (edit: tune the box to the higher frequency since impedance rise(aka box rise) is low on the tuning frequency! That will also produce a bump, up to 6 decibels or more!)

[@wal]

I will tune in! Like a banjo 😊

[@ruikazane5123]

Williston Audio Labs Be sure to wire it correctly for a 4 ohm load now as well. Impedance should be about spot on within 2 ohms from rated at the tuning frequency [Fb].

[@Th3EcHo]

What app are you using to measure the Hz on your phone. If ya dont mind me asking

[@KnowName33]

My God I keep seeing people ask this. Do you really think it's an app from the App Store? No it's an app from the App Store that connects to the $400 sensor that's inside the car it's not a freaking Standalone app

[@patrickbranchini378]

@@KnowName33 big mad. Chill out.

[@KnowName33]

@@patrickbranchini378 sorry I just get frustrated when I keep seeing questions asked over and over again about things retarded so much so that a 3 year old wouldn't even ask

[@wal]

It's the SSA APM-2 Wireless SPL meter - is.gd/ssaapm2

[@matt.c.thehillbilly]

This answers my question lol I've been out of car audio for about 10 years and not current with some of the new gadgets thanks for the link I might have to invest in one of these

[@1rexrex]

Try it with one of the Rockford amps just to establish a real measurement.

[@wal]

Ha! I wanna try all kinds of amps, including the Orion 3k HCCA 👈😜

[@keithblair2285]

Great vid Big D, the dB score was less because the amp went into protect before the cabin could pressurize enough and your meter responds a bit slow. The cabin of that Sequoia is massive and takes longer to build pressure up front compared to a small hatchback.

[@wal]

Thanks!

[@josemontelongo404]

You could of discarded the amp In this budget test. Keep in mind you are using 60hz as your test tone. Simply run an extension cord to your vehicle and connect it directly to your speaker terminals. Again, just because you have high wattage it does not mean you will get high SPL. It has everything to do with the speakers linear Xmax, after the speaker reaches its xmax limit it will distort and change tone so the SPL from your tuned cavity suffers. Regardless its fun to see. Have fun and keep those videos coming.

[@don_schwartzmeyer2379]

What’s sad is I don’t even have the money for that rn 😂

[@tatialo37]

weirdlife_8 _ 🤣🤣🤣

[@tatialo37]

Me either!!!!

[@Gamleprofil]

@@tatialo37 same lame

[@Thumper68]

Distortion or subs maxed out at higher power so lower dB.

[@normalicy]

I just got back from an unofficial soundoff in Odin Illinois that had a friend of mine that picked up 4 of these. He managed 149db in the kick panel with about 5000w available to the subs. I was shocked at how well they did.

[@wal]

We got 147.5 in my Ranger in kick with 2850W. Pretty crazy for $80 worth of subz

[@normalicy]

@@wal Kids have it so easy today. I had to spend a couple weeks of income to get a decent sub when I was in high school.

[@CactusJack252]

That box is doing a lot of the work. The whole set up is impressive for that money spent

[@wal]

These cheapo subs are boss mode

[@trecedaves3159]

Bet at 2ohm that amp would have gone into protect. Rise you would be 4.3ish

[@wal]

I think it would do great at 2 ohms mono. I’ll need to add 4 more woofers though 👈😬

[@trecedaves3159]

@@wal that or change to 2 ohm subs. Perfect world right..

[@mickelfrisch9556]

OK that amp is more than $150 tho

[@818bulldog4]

OLD SCHOOL!!!!!!! hardly any money and it knocks!!!!!

[@evanfield580]

I think it would be louder with one speaker that is a little better in a smaller SPL box and a 1ohm load

[@tatialo37]

Cheap audio! Yay!!!! I have two daughters and two sets of braces to buy but I still can swing this!

[@wal]

Yeah boi 🤙

[@tatialo37]

I got a yeah boi!!! I m honor ed!!!

[@CurtF94]

It sure sounded better with the extra watts,through the camera anyway

[@tryhardnoob1140]

How have I never heard of that 9v trick before? Smart.

[@wal]

You can also use AA battery. Subs just won’t jump as much

[@rameshbhatnagar9606]

Hi from Mauritius Island. With regards to more power output but less db: To put it in a simpler way, imagine you have one 4 ohms woofer connected to a single channel amplifier ( imagine the amp is using one output transistor which has an internal resistance of 4 ohms as well)... so the output system matches and at full power both the transistor and woofer will bear the same output power. If you now bridge the same amplifier (each channel will have one transistor of 4ohms in series which makes 8 ohms)...when connected to the same 4ohm woofer, most of the power will dissipate through the internal transistor, as it is now twice the resistance of the woofer. Thats why, amplifiers have different impedence specification, so that the output matches and most of the power goes through the speakers.

[@eddywilliams6212]

Less voltage means more current, more heat, less efficiency, less output, more heat also means the inpedence goes up, so a 4 ohm sub once hot, can rise up to 8 ohm or more, this means the amp needs more voltage , which it cant, and as the voice coil gets hot, the magnetic flux density drops causing the coil to slip in the field, further reducing output,

[@skinnyWHITEgoyim]

I know this is off subject but I just thought about it. My buddy used to have one Boston acoustics 8.4lf sub in a small bandpass box on a hifonics boltar. I wish everyone could be impressed as much as I was by this setup. That little thing put a LOT of 15's and 18's to SHAME. Try it sometime.

[@wal]

Wow that’s a lot of power for that little sub

[@DigitalNomad9209]

The reason you got less db at more power it because your coils had began to heat up. When the coils get warn, but not necessarily hot the subs tend to not get quite as loud

[@Minibikemike123]

This dude really bumpin hard in a mini van

[@fresnobassn744]

Damn man that was old school on that 9v battery👍🏼👏👏. I remember doin that test!👍🏼

[@blkngwinn]

A bit off topic Big D but there`s an interesting and short article on the CE Outlook website regarding new amp ratings and they specifically addressed how consumers are getting ripped off with these inflated amp power ratings.

[@LerRhann]

Very very impressive big d. Love the vid.

[@lowtoyxx]

This might be my favorite challenge ever. Good work d!!!!

[@wal]

Mine too. Have ideas for other challenges

[@wal]

Thanks bro!

[@robertpinger2537]

Hey Derek @williston audio labs, here are a few things to try. Box position Seat position (lower rear seats) Open the glove box Sun visors Opening the driver door/ window Increasing/shrinking port area Add flares to both sides of the ports Decrease the number of ports and use 1 larger one Put the port on the side of the enclosure facing the hatch Put tape around the outside of the subs Cover the pole vent(s) with tape Shorten the speaker wires Shorten the power cables Add sound deadener Steering wheel position (height) Remove any trash/change/cups ect.

[@wal]

Awesome tips!! You da man 👌

[@bassheadofficial7341]

Open glove box?

[@Doctorbasss]

smaller box, 2 long 6" port out of the box with big flare in and out with at least 1/2 diameter lengh of port away from the back of the trunk and that's it! . My best score is 142dB in an integra with a M44 bridged on 2ch( about 225WRMS) on a single BOSE 5 1/4 sub in a bandpass 4th order with big long 6" port. I'm sure you will do 142-143 with minor changes!

[@wal]

Great tips!

[@gregoryswan1509]

YEAH, Boi..!!!! You BIG Dummy..!!!! My TWO favorite phrases now!

[@darrennaicker1913]

Just recently joined this channel damn,you make the best videos ever. Keep up the good work and all the best for the future.

[@wal]

Thanks brother! Great to have you here 👌

[@d.c.6916]

I created this challenge on a car audio forum in 2004. Glad to see it still moving forward.

[@wal]

Awesome and props. What is your screen name used in the forum?

[@wishusknight3009]

The loss of sound pressure with more power is probably the amp losing a tonne of damping factor at such a low impedance. It may also be a bit of clipping too.

[@adubs.]

My guess is the protect caused a quick enough power cut to get a spike from the inductors, but not long enough for the speakers to do anything. Total wild ass guess.

[@positrack99]

Thanks for the 9 Volt Battery Trick!!!

[@bassnonmofficial5399]

Meters generally take a second to register a reading, likely just got that burst of power from rolling in fast. I’d go back and try to do a slow roll on so the amp hopefully doesn’t protect on you

[@impslap7620]

Man, that's impressive. Back in the day guys would spend 100x that to get the same results!

[@RealCapricousCavy]

Can't wait to see the different box position db differences. Gonna guess rear-facing, subs closest to the hatch will get loudest at the front seat as it'll reflect back (forward) with that set up. Don't forget to try really close to the hatch and pulled away from the hatch i.e. back of box nearest back seats rear-facing vs. front of box a couple inches from hatch rear-facing, and probably the same deal with front-facing. If hatch rattles, can try a piece of MDF, set up on it's end, put some padding between it and the hatch so it doesn't scratch anything, and let it reflect back off that instead. If you have a couple 75 gallon fish tanks laying around or wooden boxes w/o the top panels, set them horizontally on their sides (put towels between the 2 if going with glass) with the tops facing the rearwards subs, and let the subs reflect back out of them as it'll simulate a smaller space, though it might be sensitive to how close the subs are and box might need spun upside down so subs are closest to the floor of the trunk. Used to do that in a home audio build as a teen (subs were in a rearward closet, rear-firing, and fired into a 50 gallon tank that reflected back into the room) and 35 wrms on 2 Realistic polypropylene 50w woofers (remember RS speakers?) would rattle half the house. Would stick with that amp and keep it 4 ohm, as it'll be easier to see how MUCH box placement affects everything w/o changing anything else. Once you get the highest db confirmed from placement, go full-tilt with a stronger amp or 2 amps. Might be interesting to block the ports with rolled up towels and see if the db increases or decreases once you've found the highest db from box placement. Will probably sound like poo unless it's rear-facing, closest to the hatch though and more power for sealed.

[@MOBAudioUSA]

No laughing here man great video as always!

[@wal]

👈😜👍

[@yasink21]

140 dB is god damn impressive from that budget. also some good shit playing ''three kinds of bass''

[@wal]

👈😜👍