171 - The MicroJig MJ Splitter Review

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The tablesaw can truly be your best friend or your worst enemy. While it is one of the most versatile tools in the wood shop, it is also one of the most dangerous if used improperly and without the proper safety devices. In the past, we have discussed the use of Featherboards & Pushsticks as well as the benefits of using something like MicroJig's GRR-Ripper. But the one safety device we have yet to focus on, which could be considered the most important, is the tablesaw splitter/riving knife.
The purpose of the splitter/riving knife is to prevent kickback as it physically stops the wood from making contact with the back of the blade (the source of kickback). If your saw came with a good quality splitter or riving knife, I certainly hope you are using it. Sadly, many saws on the market today come with a complicated metal and plastic dinglehopper contraption that is intended for safety, but actually resembles a medieval torture device and is probably better suited for that task. It's no wonder these things are usually taken off the saw and never put back on. And if you happen to have an older saw, you probably have no splitter at all. So what's a safety-minded woodworker to do?
In my opinion, the simplest and most inexpensive solution is MicroJig's MJ Splitter SteelPRO. The beauty of this system is that it works on just about any tablesaw, regardless of age or quality level. The splitter can be installed into any zero clearance insert so the installation process is incredibly simple and fast. Optional features like the "mini featherboard" and the Kerf Keeper make this deceivingly simple system very customizable and versatile. The video will go into detail on both of these optional features. The MJ Splitter SteelPRO comes in both full kerf and thin kerf versions, depending on what type of blade you run on your saw.
As much as I like the MJ Splitter system, you won't see me using it on the show and I thought this deserved some explanation. The reason is because I already have a standard riving knife installed on my saw and it works great for my purposes. As I mentioned above, this product is great for folks who either have no splitter at all, or who's splitter is a piece of junk. Coming in at under $40, you'd be hard pressed to find anything else that gives you more bang for the buck in terms of safety!

[@ourlifeinwyoming4654]

I was just gifted an older table saw. My instincts told me to wise up before I plugged it in. This video was the most straight forward and easy to understand in this subject. I ordered the micro jig today and will only proceed when I'm 100% confident that I can do it safely. Thanks!

[@tylertallo]

Thank you so much Marc for shining light on this product, I'm 16 years old and my table saw is a craftsman cabinet saw from the 50's so its not the safest, I have been looking for a low cost riving knife solution for some time and this is perfect. Thanks again.

[@adventureguy4119]

It’s been 9 years did you complete your apprenticeship

[@eddiegayden6417]

You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice kzbin.infoUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.

[@woodstermangotwood]

Thanks WW, I've had mine for a couple of years. I bought it a Wood Show and never installed it. You've motivated me ... Odie.

[@Yahoomediaclub]

All the Safety vids are awesome, well explained Marc 👍👍👍⚙️👍👍👍

[@marcosmota1094]

This was an *AMAZING* explanation! Thank you!

[@bwrd1976]

Love your safety speal at the end. Awesome and o was thinking micro jig but this helps a lot. Thank you.

[@kooa1]

Another brilliant review. Thanks mate!

[@csimet]

I have an old 1968 Craftsman 113 that came with a splitter and guard, but they had to be removed when I upgraded my fence system (Delta T4). The MJ Splitter is a no-brainer for me and absolutely required. I use it all the time and I'm looking at the Jessem stock guides to further help keep my cuts safer.

[@fahrgast237]

Buying one right now, Thank you!

[@danielday8828]

I just installed an MJ splitter on my old craftsman table saw (the original riving knife setup was garbage). Thanks for the great explanation on how this thing works.

[@Advansite]

what zero clearance did you use

[@woodwhisperer]

I suppose you could. Just have to figure out how the proper alignment for the setup jig.

[@richardc6932]

It is well worth buying even though it is $60.00 plus here in Canada. I have the older version (plastics) and it has saved me when ripping 10” wide x 3/4” pine which had a lot of tension in it.

[@MintStiles]

Or you can cut through your ZCP and fit any piece of exactly sanded flat sized steel for 50 cents by either epoxying it back or screwing it back. I hope this is not sponsored.

[@finnmacwoof2138]

very clear and informative.

[@kotwica231]

Can you tell me how you attached the plastic sheet to your table saw fence? I need to replace my plywood fence which is bolted, with that same material, but I don't want to drill holes and have to fill them in!

[@wintersnot]

That's a good idea, but is there no rear bolt hole for a removable riving knife that travels with the trunnions on those saws?

[@rfc9980]

Appreciate the video Marc, but I can only fit one splitter into my shorter ZCL. How do I decide which splitter to use in my case?

[@woodwhisperer]

That's the way PM2000's come from the factory. Bolts go into the fence and the heads slide into T-slots in the plastic face.

[@bobvanwest]

Thank You, Thank You, and did I mention Thank You. I have a Dewalt DW 744 and no riving knife, guard and this gives me a great option other than buying a clunky riving knife from Dewalt (which I was prepared to do) thanks, love all the videos

[@woodwhisperer]

It is pretty much as close as you can get with a stationary splitter. It has to be able to accommodate the blade when at full height. So when the blade is really low, the distance is greater. But I guess that's the nature of the beast with this type of product.

[@FD-dh2fu]

Great info. Why not just set one offset towards fence as a feather board and the last one pushing away from blade? Best of both worlds and you never have to worry about binding?

[@timberwolfconcepts3238]

I own one of those plastic metal torture devices you describe for my 22124 craftsman hybrid table saw. I have yet to figure out how to make a straight rip cut with it attached. It's bulky,gets in the way, and obscures my vision. I'm unable to keep the wood pressed against the fence when ripping thin stock. So to me. The stock safety gear seems to be a hazard at best. My question to you is. In your experience as a wood worker would the splitter from micro jig be a better, safer. solution ? I use their 3d gripper and it's great. But unfortunately it's not compatible with the stock splitter and I'm looking for a solution that will help keep me from getting more stitches. Currently I'm sporting 11 in my index finger from Not having a reliable splitter/riving knife. Also. What makes a riving knife better than a splitter from a scientific point of view.

[@kotwica231]

Thanks!

[@michaelquillen2679]

I have an old Craftsman table saw. Got hit by the kickback once, years ago. Since then, I now use a face shield with safety glasses and a heavy leather woodworkers apron with padding sewn in (yes, it's custom). Kickback may still occur, but it shouldn't hurt too bad.

[@RockinGuy1994]

That was a cool tool!

[@sitinrol]

How would you use a blade guard with this MJ insert?

[@Jay2525Jay]

Thanks

[@WestOCHD2006]

why not set one up with three, two splitters and the kerf keeper last?

[@hosoiarchives4858]

There is kind of a gap between the blade and the splitter, is that a problem?

[@woodwhisperer]

OK. Any tablesaw but the Taurus. :)

[@rishibajaj6770]

I have an old Crafstman/Sears table saw - the factor throat plate is only 1/16 inch thick (metal). How would I go about creating a zero clearance insert for something that thin? (non-standard thickness)?

[@rodc4334]

I have the same saw. If you do not already have them, drill a couple of screw holes into the insert, and counter sink them just enough for a couple of small screws. Cut a board for the underside. I use 1/2 inch. Screw into place under the plate. Make sure the heads are flush or below the surface. Cut a 1/16 inch thick strip of wood to glue into the slot, bringing it flush. Might want it ever so slightly higher and sand flush. Drop the blade, install plate, to be extra safe put the fence over the side of the plate, turn on saw, slowly raise the blade through the insert.' Very quick, easy, been doing this for years. I add a hardwood "riving" knife behind the blade, glued into the slot, though that does limit the blade height a little. If you really want full height you will need to extend the kerf a little.

[@ahmu.k6282]

thank you youtube recommendations

[@saito1975]

but I think it's so short ??

[@woodwhisperer]

everything has a price. :)

[@obxfishing1800]

Why does everyone add plastic to the fence? I can come up with a lot or reasons but I never heard the real reason. I'm sure accuracy is it's goal. TY! Great video!!! Check out my Kreg pocket hole unboxing if you don't use pocket holes. I would assume you do though.

[@woodwhisperer]

+OBX Fishing I don't think everyone uses plastic, but some companies do include UHMW plastic in their fences, like Powermatic. That's the case in this video.

[@obxfishing1800]

I have since discovered that when making cuts close to the fence, having the plastic will keep the blade from hitting the metal fence, and I think this is my answer. What do you think? TY for the reply!

[@RoddyDa]

+OBX Fishing sounds like a viable reason WW....but I also believe that this type of plastic provides a slicker surface for the wood to ride against when compared to aluminum

[@coincollector315]

@@RoddyDayou are absolutely correct and it still makes a safe sacrificial fence that won’t damage the blade IF it does come into contact with the blade.

[@judithrob1591]

Riving Knife should not be in line with saw blade though +- 0.3/0.6 mm to the right slightly outside the saw blade. PS it is best to make a Riving Knife from spring material BV. aluminium. And the wood remains pressed against the guide and the rest of the wood remains clamped in place against the guide and cannot shoot away, no kickback saw wood ((I've had it like this for years and it works perfectly all the time). And, even with a riving knife you have no problem if you want to make a narrow rabbet

[@timberwolfconcepts3238]

+Norbury53 Couldn't you just drill straight into the saw top ? Lol

[@HRRLutherie]

It does look like a mighty big gap between the blade and the splitter

[@13paulieg]

Do I need to know the blade thickness to order ?

[@coincollector315]

There are only 2 options. Stand kerf and thin kerf. Standard kerf is 1/8 inch and the blue setup. Thin kerf is the orange setup.

[@MrMiamijohn]

all table saws in the uk have to have a riving knife fitted by law; cant understand why they are not fitted in the US

[@jointheresistence123]

let freedom reign my friend

[@carloduroni5629]

Mmh... They do not raise or lower with the saw height. So, just get one or two L-shaped steel bits and place them in line with the saw blade and flush with the zero-clearance plate. Total cost = few cents.

[@devarajv2570]

Just tap one 2mm nail at blade line alignment. Thats enough. Over exaggeration not required.

[@sanramondublin]

i wish you would not have used the word ''CRAP'' at the end of your great safety lecture. great education, thank you. greetings from north California.

[@andytee1471]

Yawn! not impressed, more complex than it needs to be and actually $35!? is too expensive, I made one from wood for a lot lot less money and it's excellent and simple. In my humble opinion :o)

[@therighttoopenlydiscusside993]

why don't you americas use riving knifes. much safer and easier. its thicker then the saw blade, and thinner then the tooth of saw. more woodworking youtubers don not use riving knifes. I've had some serious close calls with "not using the riving knife. i dont mean accidents with my fingers or something like that, i mean the material stuck and burn at the end of the saw. always use a riving knife (sorry for my english, i'm dutch)

[@RoddyDa]

Some older models don't accommodate riving knives. Also some manufactures don't have riving knives available for a thin kerf blade.

[@daviddavis5689]

If you haven't notice Americans love to do it themselves. These work great and likely how Riving knifes came about. Mother of invention thing.Besdies many older very good quality saw do not have riving knifes .

[@chrisgrubisa3819]

riving knife free since 83 .....👌

[@johndavid3114]

The instructions for these are terrible.