1858 Remington hammer spring job

[@walterashley149]

Exacting what I was looking for, Thank You!

[@drewt.4353]

Thank you, screwed the screw in and heard a click, locked up the gun. You showed me how to remove and reset the spring.

[@82c10]

Alot of people suggest not using a dremel, but ive never had an issue. Just go slow and check after every few passes. I just recently fixed up a bolt from C.H. Weisz for my Euroarms Remington with my dremel and a ceramic bit (fiance is a dentist and i get old ceramic bits free lol). Worked like a charm. Perfect timing now. Great demonstration and explanation, btw!

[@F-BOMB]

wolff SSA springs work well too...

[@catsandcarsringtailgang6188]

Good video. I was hoping for technical Lb.'s of spring tension. "Sweet spot". Not a guesstimate like prunes, is one enough? Is two too many! Lol

[@Dusty_Tucker]

Haha sorry I'm never that technical, I'm a trial and error kinda guy. But carefully

[@larrybrander9116]

I've got a remington and she's the dirty outspoken type.

[@aurteekay6339]

Might give this a shot on one of mine. I have a pair so why not 🤷‍♂️ I been wanting a lighter hammer for fanning and practicing triple shots

[@paraplegichistoricalsports5700]

Great informative video, keep em coming man!

[@axemaister4520]

Great video exactly what I was looking for. Mine even said when I bought it that it only was able to be half cocked lol.

[@graceetimes9610]

Nice video. So it originally had a strong hammer spring, why? Was it not needed?

[@Dusty_Tucker]

Yeah original spring was probably double the strength it needed to be.

[@SladeRemington]

Shooting percussion, you can get blowback through the nipple. You need enough tension on the hammer spring to keep the hammer from getting pushed back, which would allow the spent cap to be blown off the nipple and dropping into the gun, jamming it up, or worst case scenario flying back into your face. I have a pair of Uberti's and, yes, the factory spring tension is way overkill. Just don't lighten it up too much.

[@Dusty_Tucker]

@@SladeRemington yeah I just compared it to my 1851 Navy and I want to say it was four times as stiff. So I lightened it by about half and it works perfectly now

[@simplemann101]

@@SladeRemington @ 6:23 he says exactly that...

[@tsarytsin]

Def helpful

[@kylethomasblanchard4491]

Dont take off material from the back of the spring. Only the belly. This spring will likely break

[@Schlachthof5]

Very helpful, Thanks.

[@Dusty_Tucker]

Thanks for watching !

[@insightplus5035]

Lifehack: Unscrew the hammer screw, lift the hammer up, and the spring will go out with fingers.

[@OO-sy9rt]

Is that Euroarms a by chance?

[@Dusty_Tucker]

Yes it was a Euroarms

[@OO-sy9rt]

@@Dusty_Tucker Nice, I just bought a '74 Euroarms/ASP for $240 a few weeks ago. My hand spring just snapped and I don't which one to buy as a replacement.

[@Dusty_Tucker]

I would try a pieta hand, They seem to be the closest, You might have to do some slight modification

[@82c10]

You can also use a bobby pin if you have it. Worked great on mine.

[@journeyquest1]

Wolff makes a lightened spring for $15

[@Dusty_Tucker]

Yeah I know, but then there is shipping to Canada so its more like 55$ plus I love working on my own firearms

[@paraplegichistoricalsports5700]

I wish I had known yesterday because I ordered some supplies, but now I know, thanks man!

[@bulldog6390]

I can't find this on their website. What's it under?

[@dlh1947us]

just back off on the screw on the inside of the grip.

[@Dusty_Tucker]

I tried that at first, it didn't do anything

[@OO-sy9rt]

Doesn't work with Euroarms, too thick...

[@buddybbuddyb3687]

What do those big buttons on your ears represent?

[@robertmueller6979]

Dude... you said dremel, file and sandpaper all with a straight face. That's horrifying... still like the video tho...

[@ZaneTyler-c5q]

Easier to just not remove material, for you have just reduced the life of the spring. All you have to do is bend the spring slightly. That's it, works great. However, since the hammer design leaves a lot to be desired, the best way to solve the issue is to make a new hammer with a longer tang. I've done it, along with a host of other parts, such as triggers, cylinder bolts, etc. The average guy could find it difficult. Just get a flatpuece of steel, harder than the trigger. Why harder? Because the trigger is easier to make so if a part is going to wear out, you want it to be the easy to make part. (Duh) Same thing goes for the cylinder bolt which is easier to fabricate than a cylinder, so you want it softer. (Again, duh) Guns are like engines. They get hot, so you don't want sharp corners where heat can build up and crack the steel. You want bullets to slip thru the forcing Cone so you lube it, etc... Best lube is Vasoline/candle wax heated about 40/50.=vas/wax & Put it in the cylinder. I like bees wax, but Paraffin works too. (It's simply homemade mustache wax!) By the way, bending the leaf spring is the same thing we used to do to Buck 110 Hunter lockblade knife, bend the pin inside, and POW, blade still locks, but now way easier to open. It's A-L-L Common Sense