1890s Victorian Blouse (or Plastron? or maybe Chemisette?)

[@cmgubler]

I’m sorry that this is going to be a comment unrelated to the project but, I LOVE your choice of music for the beginning of this video. I literally stopped what I was doing. Now I’m going to finish watching this video.

[@alcarinweisturlimiell4438]

if you are worried about the interfacing, try ironing it onto the lining, not the main fabric :) that does not only hide possible non-fused bubbles, but also looks more historically accurate, as historically either a stiff lining or interlining would be used to create stiffness instead of something fusible :) Or just directly try and get directly get some proper stiff interlining ;) :D not all shops have it in stock, but it is the next level in sewing quality and also does not disintegrate over time like the fusible stuff :)

[@projectmidlife]

I think nowadays in costuming if I heard someone mention chemisette, they were referring to that thing that is like a short blouse with no sleeves and sides tied instead of sewn. But checking 1890s magazines chemisette does indeed sometime look like a collar with a front, basically like plastron. I noticed that in the 90s plastron is a lot less common than chemisette and my (very rough) understanding would be, that chemisette is meant to look like a shirt/blouse, where plastron not necessarily, it could look like a piece of dress. Other things that meant to fill in like that, which I've seen in magazines, were guimpe (very popular, basically a glorified turtleneck :D popular for girls and misses, but not only ) and waist-extender, which has nothing to do with modern waist extenders :D it was again something similar like all those other "fillers", all those things we tend to call blouses were usually called waists (shirt-waists if they were like shirt), hence waist extender.

[@kitty-pm2md]

in the historical, a chemisette...plastron...whatever usually did fall short of the waist, to make the absolute minimum bulk at the waist allowable. you'll see the same thing in corset covers; they usually fall about an inch above the waist.

[@fabmel161]

I cannot recommend the purchase of a tailoring ham enough! I love mine, not just for pressing curved seams, but also to pin the work to when stroking gathers with a pin (distributing them evenly) or hand sewing. For gathers, I usually secure the thread ends to the ham, it is heavy enough to give you some resistance to put some tension on the gathering thread. For hand sewing , I secure the fabric to it and move it from time to time. The added tension helps create more even stitches. Also, for transferring marks from the pattern onto the fabric: try using a pin (pushing it through pattern and fabric), which leaves a tiny hole in the fabric. If you lift the pattern slightly right after, you can mark it with chalk / a pen more accurately. The French word chemisette is pronounced „she-mis-ett“, (the first syllable as in „Sherman“, just without the r), not with a hard „k“-sound :) it is the diminutive of chemise, which means (under)shirt. If you watch any KZbin video on 18th century clothing, you will hear it pronounced for sure! A chemise was the most common first layer of clothing for both men and women for centuries btw, and was also worn at night. Thanky for taking us along on your sewing, knitting and learning journey! All the best to you. Fabienne

[@alexismontez4230]

For pressing those convex seams, you have a few options. Understitching the inside/facing layer helps 'push' the fabric out to the stitching line. Using a tailor's ham (a knotted towel works too) to iron the seam open or to one side before ironing the final fold works, particularly if you don't want to/can't use understitching. You can also use a tool to push the seam out as you iron, like a point turner or a metal or wooden ruler or even a butter knife.

[@mmmsss2443]

"Chemise" is French for shirt, and the ending "ette" is a diminutive, so it basically means shirtlet, and is pronounced in a French-ish way - shemi-ZET, as others have commented :)

[@kallandar13]

I believe shem-i-sette is the right pronunciation. And a tailor’s ham would really help in pressing those seams-it’s a really great tool!

[@shelleymonson8750]

Another search term you might use is habit shirt; it was originally used with a riding habit, but spread to other ensembles. It’s the same sort of partial shirt.

[@lizziedawson4941]

I’m really enjoying you project. I agree with the other commenters have said about tailors hams and pronunciation - I just wanted to add a tip that when ironing silk, it is best to use a pressing cloth (a handkerchief or piece of Muslin) between the iron and the silk because it is so delicate and especially with white silk, it will protect it from burning or discolouration. :)

[@agypsycircle]

You did a great job and that trick with the newspaper is one I’ll definitely keep in mind if I’m ever playing with silk! A tailors ham is definitely a great investment when you’re sewing anything with curves, and a hint, put a tea towel or something on top when pressing silks so you don’t accidentally burn the pretty fabrics! You did amazing and I’m really loving your new outfit! The stones balancing like that really is an incredible sight! Did you balance them?

[@foxxtrott1992]

Wonderful as always! I love watching your videos.

[@johanna_elizabeth]

I love seeing how this ensemble is coming along. Though I'm not an expert in Victorian terminology by any means, based on what I've seen I believe that chemisette (pronounced "she-mi-zet") would be the most appropriate term for what you made. Chemisettes typically cover the shoulders and tie at the waist-- they were basically sleeveless blouses, and were meant to add modesty without the bulk of a blouse. Plastron, though very similar and also meant to fill in the neckline, seems more like its purpose was to be decorative, like a jabot or ruffled collar.

[@varde42]

Beautiful work :)

[@LindaUrsin]

The chemisette is a french word and uses the sh sound :) For curved seams, use a tailor's ham. It's very easy to make your own

[@LixiaWinter]

In Russian fashion magazines of the time this item is referred as (lace) waistcoat. Go figure!

[@katie3362]

I can't wait to see the finished product! I've been watching since you started this

[@petapendlebury9024]

Lovely video. Like you I am trying to understand terminology both from the late 1890s and the 1930s/40s. I have several 1930s and 40s sewing books with patterns for collars (not always what we would think today as you have found), dickies and plastrons and trying to work out the differences is not always straightforward! Loving the learning curve though 🤗

[@jodiefosterchild5581]

Beautiful!! I came across your project on reddit and I’m hooked!

[@jacobgalos9081]

Woah plastrons are like modern day dickey collars!

[@nevsneedles5469]

Great job! I love the music you chose as well, is it from Epidemic Sound?

[@nevsneedles5469]

Also, you may be tired of it, but I am jealous of all that snow! I love snow, but I live in a place where it's more likely to have freezing rain instead of snow in the winter time.

[@jacquiethomas8688]

Could you please answer me. I am a seamstress and can help you with your sewing. I just found out that your sewing of the walking outfit was a year ago. Duh I feel like a dummy that has been living under a rock. But I can still help with your sewing to do a better job. Plus i purchased 2 patterns one is knitted one sewn that would work with your walking skirt. Jacquie

[@laurenloertscher1319]

Could it be called a shirt waist, or is that something else?