19 ESSENTIAL Warhammer paints (we can't replace)

[@braydh2020]

Team black base rim - agree with James it frames the model even including its basing and is better for displaying the mini. Maybe brown is better if you game a lot so it blends in better with the gaming mat/board

[@spencerarnold669]

You should think about listing the paints (or anything else) you mention in the description........ including a link to blitz, refreshers and tk max tubberware

[@coquekong9596]

Actually, Escorpena in Spanish is a type of Fish. Escorpiónon the other hand, means Scorpion. Great podcast BTW!

[@itmikepensacola1658]

I have never played Warhammer or painted a mini. I'm 54 and just got into the lore about a year ago. I discovered this merry band of lunatics via Leutin09. I have begun watching and will definitely start from the beginning. I may even buy/download some models to paint soon. Thanks guys! Cheers!

[@BrushSaw]

the black base rim is just more distinguished in my eye - treat it like a humble painter's plinth

[@Wijkert]

Have been searching for a good Tin Bitz replacement and supposedly the new Dark Bronze from pro acryl is very close.

[@anotherzingbo]

I use Rhinox Hide for most of my base rims, it's dark but not as harsh as black, and seems to go pretty well with all colour schemes.

[@Thornspyre81]

That AK Uktra Matte.... just phenomenal

[@Thornspyre81]

Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White is excellent!

[@danielellyot]

WOW Tin Bitz.. wish I kept my original hex pots of that. But glad Decayed Metal made it into this. Incredible paints.

[@box2boardhobby89]

I learned more from this episode about paints I have had on my shelf for ages than any other painting tutorials on KZbin!

[@modj8238]

Team black rim - I agree its a good frame for the model.

[@Blazefury09]

Black base rim, green still gets me in the feels though

[@Wijkert]

These episodes are the best! Nerding out on paints is right up my alley.

[@S.A.S.H.]

Tamiya and Mr. Hobby paints are acrylic, but they are not water based. They are solvent based. That is why they require different thinners and removers, and why they need to be mixed with similar solvent-based paints and not water based such as Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, etc.

[@mordy2v]

They are actually water soluble but use alcohols as their primary suspension. There are universal thinners like Ultimate Airbrush Thinner that work with almost all acrylics. The main thing about them is to use a paint brush you need a retarder to perform well (I like the mild one from Mr Hobby)

[@Jonez3460]

Cant believe that on the Blood Angels edition of the podcast, you missed the opportunity for december being sanguinalia, in remembrance of sanguinius and his sacrifice to the Emperor😂🩸

[@tomhaworth3916]

Blacked base rim! Looks bang tidy

[@FrothyPaints]

Great video lads. Definitely put a few on my to buy list. Some great tips and insight in there too!

[@peteliddleyork]

Im a regular viewer and I can say that this is one of the best episodes. Packed full of tips. I will watch it back when I'm looking to refresh my knowledge of colors. E.g. my LIMP penal legion in orange jump suits. Would be good if the description included the names of the paints. Sorry i don't speak Essex (even after being married to one of yous)

[@tomhaworth3916]

This episode as well as being informative is sooo nostalgic!

[@jamescurtis2112]

Tin Bitz is so good. Used it for ork metal. Drybrush Tin Bitz over Black, then Boltgun & Mithral Silver.

[@conradmynett7037]

On the metallics, I used to use the old Vallejo Metallic Medium for exactly the same reason, to add that final pop highlight. But now I use the Vallejo Model Air metallics. Great for adding that final highlight, and the pigment is really fine, designed for the airbrush after all. (And yeah, I really like Tin Bitz as well)

[@Thornspyre81]

Black, for contrast.

[@BMJYDK]

incredibly excited for the Ork box! but the Khorne one comes a close second.

[@Wijkert]

Instead of using ultra matt varnish (or any varnish) after the ink stage, you can thin your inks with ultra matt varnish. That way you can better tell what you are doing while airbrushing instead of after the varnish stage. I use a ratio of 1:1 if I want a satin finish an 2:1 if I want a matt finish.

[@callumstuart9094]

Could be wrong, but I have always been under the impression that Necrotite Green is an exact match for old Scorpion Green. I couldn't tell you for certain though, my Scorpion Green ran out years ago.

[@Mr_Jimbo]

The drain valve on compressor thing is really important, especially if you're sat anywhere near your compressor, as James said, if that rusted part kept rusting away the air pressure inside could rupture the tank itself, which is so dangerous if a pressure vessel lets go. Search on youtube for compressor tank explosions to see what I mean

[@jonathanpalermo6166]

Talking about varnishes, the day I swore off can varnish and only varnishing with airbrush, was the day I was varnishing my full deathwatch army. I decided to paint the army in the style where I didn't just highlight the edges of the black armour, but larger highlights over the full panels of the space marine armour. Anyway I waited until I had finished the entire army before I varnished. BIG mistake. Entire army was ruined. Going to have to strip the whole lots

[@DefaultProphet]

Ooof. Did you try any of the tricks like olive oil to try and knock down what the varnish did?

[@Thornspyre81]

I wonder if the Cold White he was talking about is a brighter white than the Game Color line Dead White.

[@Wijkert]

There are no good fluorescent blues, because there's no mica (what's used instead of pigment) that is actually good enough. Keep in mind that all fluorescents have a terrible light-fastness, so avoid direct sunlight. My favorite fluorescent lines are Golden High Flow and Amsterdam inks.

[@Wijkert]

Continuing the spam...😂 My goto red for Blood Angels is in fact also Napthol Crimson from Liquitex. It's a darker red, but still relatively bright because of it being a pure pigment paint and an ink.

[@mindyfranke5279]

So is the cold white brighter than titanium white?

[@mtymus]

I used Baneblade brown for base rims for my kraken nids but for the rest I used black.

[@samdalton6853]

You can still get the old range such as Boltgun Metal and Chainmail. They were made by Coat D'Arms and still sell those in their Fantasy paint range.

[@SiegeStudios]

These are not the same, close but not the same the originals were made by HMG or a French company in fact!

[@samdalton6853]

@@SiegeStudios I have some of both GW and Coat D' Arms and mine are definitely the same. I might have been incorrect in saying Coat D' Arms made them as I think is just a trading name but yes HMG are the source manufacturer. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@chrisbeau76]

P3 is still around and they have recently added a few new colors. I hear their Turquoise Ink is one of the best for hobby inks.

[@harrisonmacey6380]

Base rims .... I think it 100% depends. For display pieces black so you can separate the model from the background. It helps the model stand out. But for gaming armies it depends on the battlefield I use with them. My LoTR stuff is all steel legion drab, my chaos renegades blood bowl team is rhinox hide to match their soil basing. I think black base rims on a battlefield separate the models from the twrrain so you know you are playing a game and it's harder to immerse

[@scotthill222]

George, try out the warcolors flourescent range. Infinitely better than the vallejos in consistency using their get mediums.

[@adwag3573]

Going to have to go with the rim should fit the crime. My Dark Angels are in a cold mountainous climate. So the base is rim is eshin grey. But black does look really nice most of the time. Brown is quite classic looking.

[@S.A.S.H.]

Specific use-case? Like Goblin Green bases?

[@danpsyker6122]

What's the Scale 75 metallic set are they referring to? Does anyone know?

[@paulsimpson8574]

Team black base rim. Finishes the models nicely, frames it.

[@niallrichardcurran2466]

Have you used that Fluro green on Necrons? Super curious, I still havent found a glowy recipe I 100% like...

[@ethanpitts9164]

Steel legion drab for models that are already predominantly black IMO. Black is awesome on most things but on a Ravenguard intercessor it just screams too much black for me personally.

[@chrisbeau76]

Team Black. I think of a black base as a black picture frame

[@warsmithkorath5882]

Tin Bitz was the biz loved painting with it

[@axeltowle]

Liquitex High-Flo Fluorescents are amazing, much more user-friendly than the Vallejo ones and crazy pigmented

[@benw8825]

Vallejo model colour has both a yellow green and a green yellow… 😅

[@mike_burt]

Can't believe no one has said Tau Sept'ember yet. 🙈🤣

[@DefaultProphet]

Black base rim, agree that it’s a frame

[@niallrichardcurran2466]

been doing Zandri dust myself on the base rim haha :P

[@PopeJrod]

Team Black rim here! Frames the base.

[@leejshaw77]

Black base rim all the way. Did try steel legion drab didn’t like it, did black and it frames the min better in my opinion. Team James all the way on this one.

[@Wijkert]

21:40 acrylic medium is glossy by nature. So it's not like inks are extra glossy, it's that most other acrylics have a matting agent added to them, giving them a matt finish. Ps native speakers have a hard time pronouncing my name. Try it without the "j", so "Wikert", as in commander Riker... ;)

[@komma8203]

Tamiya and mr.color is both a acrylic lacquer and so is ak real color. But the world of solvent based paints is much lager than world of acrylics, and we that do a lot of scalemodels and gundams uses solvents much more than i do painting minis. And ak interactiv 3generation Brunt Tin is pretty spot on to the old tin biz, more so than decayed metal, i own them both

[@peteranderson9222]

This is amazing - do you have any recommendations for a darker green? Salamanders player asking in need of help!! 😂

[@nopparutcp13]

Black base rim FTW , it make the detalis of any base popped while the brown is great for the jungle base theme or desert but for the base with much color vibrance is horrible.

[@Paranormal-Stupidity]

Team black base rim. The rim is the frame for the base.

[@willgisby9530]

For March you could just have “March!”

[@YetiLord]

Tim Bits ??? I was like when did canadian donuts become a paint.

[@JustPaintz]

Cheers👍

[@neon_necromunda]

No joke weather and humidity when used correctly will not ruin spray can jobs

[@beetle5000]

Black base rim every time because anything else is just wrong for me hahaha

[@meralda5582]

Black rims because for me this is a separate piece for the game and look better

[@Wijkert]

Tamiya paints are acrylics, just alcohol based instead of water based.

[@joshpuffpufftekken]

Black base rim because Black is cooler than brown

[@martynjones3978]

Hello i am relatively new to the hobby and i was told to get cheap brushes, i did just that and i have had a torturous time with said brushes, i moved up to a slightly better brand there a bit better!! How ever the torture is still going on so it be nice to see where your thoughts are regarding brushes?? Could you recommend a high end brand you always use daily and a good cheapish brand to start with!!

[@AngusBeef0]

Get a size 1 or 2 sable. Windsor has treated me right. Take care of it and it'll last.

[@wolfguar9864]

Team lack rim here 🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴

[@antonioelias3576]

BLACK BASE RIM!!!! It allows the model to appear as though had been "cut out" of the environment you have imagined it to be in. Believe it or not, it clashes less with different types of gaming boards. Team black base rim all the way. Sorry, George.

[@d-emprahexpects]

Team "most adapted to specific situation" base rim here. Black, warm brown, dark brown, will all work. Marine themed bases might use a deep Prussian blue for example. Black is just a no-choice and it fits so easily simply because it's not even technically a color, it's a neutral tone that lacks color so it won't clash with anything. It's a good all around choice. But for nature-based armies and bases, such as AoS, I think a Doom ull brown or Dryad bark work best

[@YetiLord]

Also 100% black base rims.

[@kantairs4824]

Tin bitz uruk hai

[@neon_necromunda]

If you have issues with a can its all down to technique

[@cabe_bedlam]

You’re both wrong. GoblinGreen4Lyfe!

[@NobleNayrb]

Must be black base rim

[@neon_necromunda]

Mournfang brown base rim/pro acryl equivalent, black rims bleh!!

[@paddyervine6192]

Black base rim gang

[@callumhenry7420]

Stormvermin fur for rims!

[@laurencepenfold]

Base rims should be coordinated to the model and basing scheme. No one colour is correct.

[@STOOJIE]

Sorry George but black base rim just looks smarter

[@TheDuke07]

Waiting for the hero to just list the paints. I love a good 'best paints!' video but hate when they don't bother to list them. Like I get creators might fear people not watching but seems unlikely since viewers still want your opinion and just makes actually referencing them later harder.

[@JustinRuiz-b2v]

Goblin Green Base trim

[@UntiltedName]

team incubi darkness base rim

[@giraton1]

*Two men arguing about correct base rims* *Me being heretical and themeing my base rims to the army*

[@neon_necromunda]

Why go outside to spray in snow ooooff thats desperate