19" G07-CBO Arcade Monitor Chassis Repair - Exploded R421, Blown F901 - Repair + Mods!

First G07 repair on the channel was a success! Watch the whole video to see the details. Here are the links as mentioned in the video…
Flyback…. www.arcadepart...
Pots…. www.arcadepart...
R901…. www.arcadepart...
B+ pot…. www.arcadepart...
Centering kit…. www.arcadepart...
Cap kit… www.arcadepart...
F901…. www.arcadepart...

[@billysmidway7032]

When replacing the B+ capacitor, desolder the two pads that are capped with solder closest to the hole and the new capacitor legs will snap in (notice the curled shape of them, it holds firmly in place) and you can solder them directly to the pads. The other holes can be filled with solder. The little fuse is available with the legs attached. My first G07 capkit and rebuild had parts from Bob Roberts and he sold the fuses that had the pigtails. I started to buy those fuses from Arcade Shop after Bob closed for a while. It’s nice to see the horiz/vert pot mod working. I’ve been tempted to try it for the extra fine tuning that the Wells Gardner chassis were built with. The G07 is still one of my favorite chassis to repair. Beware of the tantalum capacitor when you are trouble shooting; check it for a short as part of the multimeter test. They fail to a dead short just like they do so often on Midway games. As for the video signal, I made my TPG plug so that the RGB is in one 3 position Molex plug and GHV in another Molex 3 position plug, that lets me use almost every variation of positive or negative sync on G07 and other monitors. If I need to combine the sync, I insert a U shaped jumper (made from a capacitor leg clipping) into one end of the sync plug and the signals will be shared. I also made other adapters for the Sanyo EZ chassis plugs and the SEGA / Nanao since they are both inverted color and have odd pinout orders. There are many methods to testing, repairing and adjusting monitors, so I really enjoy watching you work and listening to your commentary. It helps me feel more comfortable in my own methods and learn new tricks that I hadn’t learned or thought of myself. Another SOLID video, Mike! Nicely done, as usual. I was almost disappointed that you didn’t catch a G07 flyback explosion on video. If you think the start up hum is scary, just wait til a flyback blows up. HAHAHA! My first one blew up at 2am, inside my enclosed trailer while I was desperately trying to get my Centipede ready for a local game convention. I don’t know if it woke the neighbors but my ears were ringing for a long time.

[@arcadefussell3185]

I did not know about F901 testing good in circuit, yet being blown! Learned something new! Great systematic approach to going thru the chassis. It sure feels good to watch them come to life again! Thanks for sharing it.

[@cowboycandyvending1574]

Wow it's like new now the pods an stuff thay look better than old .mine fell out

[@BiggyBigable]

Thanks Mike this is very helpful.

[@encorempw]

The parts list addition is a godsend. Thank you!!

[@dime666bag]

Flippin awesome repair sir, phenomenal tutorial !

[@DaveRepairs]

Well that was a marathon a video - well done - interesting about measuring the fuses, first time ever to never trust a measurement

[@Megalocade]

Nice work, my friends got one of these chassis in his Journey cab always having issues with it.

[@curtislv426]

You working on any more of these to show us some troubleshooting in the near future? I think a lot of us enjoyed this one

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

None in the queue at the moment.

[@curtislv426]

Wow. That's bizarre about f901 ringing good on continuity mode in circuit. I never knew that.

[@Christopherh1234]

Cool monitor.

[@Mike-ox1hs]

Love these videos, this was great.

[@jeremyavery703]

What was the pots for the V and h centers.

[@SteveJones172pilot]

Awesome work.. You make it look easy! When you adjusted the yoke, is there danger in touching anything there? I've always been scared to do that hot, so I always shut it down, discharge the monitor, move the yoke blind, and try again. It obviously would be more efficient to do it hot like you did, but I'm not sure what is safe and what is not!!

[@Yoeddy1]

Awesome video!

[@_Gundy_]

I replaced the flyback on my g07-cbo. I get an Arc under the flyback area when I power up. I was told it may be the white wire on the flyback arcing because the insulation issn't good. Any help?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Arc under the flyback means it’s cracked or there’s a solder ball under there. You’ll have to remove it and inspect.

[@WWJKD1]

Have a completely dead G07 and was just watching your video. Fuses are both good. Checking the voltage regulator...in your video you get .183. I'm getting .169. Could that be an issue?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

No. You’re just reading through the B+ resistor. You check the HOT and flyback? You remove the fuses and check them out of circuit? They can be blown but still test good in circuit.

[@WWJKD1]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair ok. Thanks for the reply. So yeah, both HOT and Voltage Regulator were replaced and test good. Flyback was replaced and tests good, fuses check good when out of circuit. No cracks in board. Caps and B+ cap have been changed and I verified all are installed correctly. Still monitor is completely dead. No neck glow, etc. Verified 120vac coming in. Following the G07 flowchart, with the monitor powered up, it says I should be getting 120VDC at R1, but I'm getting 166VDC. The B+ pot had no affect. Replaced the pot, but still had no affect, and R1 still measures at 166VDC.

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

166v means you’re in shutdown. You’ll need to check every component in the 900 section.

[@WWJKD1]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Thank you for the help/tips. I will investigate that area further.

[@operationrestore3308]

Should you tighten the screws before you solder in flyback or makes no diffrence?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Definitely before

[@operationrestore3308]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair im still watching dont know if you suggested that yet or not!!!!

[@cowboycandyvending1574]

the next thing you test after the voltage regulator mine reads 2.2 is it okay?thanks did a cap kit an blowing fuse now work be for so I dident buy a new flyback I'm thanking I mite have to

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

If it wasn’t blowing the fuse prior to your cap kit, go back and make sure you didn’t break a pad/trace, put a cap in backwards, or create a solder bridge somewhere.

[@cowboycandyvending1574]

Thanks sir .if I can't do it which I really want to fix it can I send the dang thing to you .

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Willing to take a look but pretty swamped at the moment. I’ll let you know when I get freed up.

[@cowboycandyvending1574]

pretty sure I got it now I had a few more like three or four not backwards but the wrong caps in the wrong spots so I'll get the fuses and I'll try tomorrow.thanks again

[@cowboycandyvending1574]

Fixed it lol thanks man .its a 13inch go7 now I've got 1/2 inch on the sides and one inch gap top and bottom of screen .well I will do more resurch.be shur to use a fan people .had a headache after becuz. I dident

[@brucej6290]

Hey Mike... Quick question. I've always been a little nervous adjusting the yolk when it's crooked while the monitor is on. What are you holding on to to move it while the monitor is still on? And I've always wondered, really in all reality, can you get zapped touching any part of the neck or yolk etc or is it only when your hand is by the anode? I noticed you have your hand back there a lot and always thought you were pretty brave doing that LOL.

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Just the white plastic ring where the yoke meets the tube and the rubber spacers. The windings have a coating to keep them from shorting. Unless you directly touch the leads with the soldered wires, you’re relatively safe.

[@kylen.6742]

When I test my B+ resistor it’s marked 220ohms but I’m getting 222ohms. I’m getting .266 on the white wire lead and .529 on the red lead. Is the VR good/bad?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

I can’t say if it is, but with those readings, it should be.

[@kylen.6742]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Ya I have a blown F901 but the flyback looks ok and the VR and HOT seem to test fine.

[@jeremyavery703]

I have a u5000 and the q703 is getting 🔥. There is no 12v on u701. Have good smp b+. Any thoughts?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

How hot? It’s somewhat normal. Most of them had a heat sink. Is the chassis working otherwise?

[@jeremyavery703]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair don't want to touch it. No other life sign than a good b+. Hot tests good

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Check to make sure it’s not shorted. It’s possibly bringing the line down. May want to replace it just to rule it out.

[@jeremyavery703]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair when I test it .it says it is good. I have tested all the parts. What are the winds supposed to be on the flyback? Thanks for you help. Don't want to forget to do that.

[@jeremyavery703]

Is it okay to run the board with the neck board and controls disconnected. I haven't but would make less frustrating.

[@mendion1982]

Excellent work as always. On 1:02:08, can you go in detail about how you worked on the convergence there? It was an adjustment of the convergence rings? Or something else?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Sure. Already have a video on this… kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJK9mnVtrb-sorc

[@oryansanchez3492]

Hello, is there any way I could send you my G07 for repair?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

You can reach me at [e-mail] but I'm not taking repairs in at the moment. Got a lot of backlog to finish up and I’ll be gearing up to move my arcade in a few weeks. I’ll add your name to my list and reach back out once I’m ready to take them in. My apologies