1936 Atlas 10D lathe Evaluation. Part 2. Spindle run out?

[@undercoverhustler37]

I’d say that’s due to variance in surface finance on the spindle itself. I wouldn’t expect anymore accuracy from a 100 year old hobby lathe that was advertised to cut to the 1/1000 of an inch anyways

[@GRANITEMONUMENT]

I’d call that perfection!

[@GRANITEMONUMENT]

One thing I notice, is there are no wipers in the saddle, which with constant use may allow some trash under it, and put a little wear on your ways., but for your intended uses, it’s fine! The front way gets more wear because the direction the spindle turns puts down force on front way, and up on the rear, (or at least in theory) depending where in the crossslide travel your working, but either way, more pressure on front way.., mine has about 5 inches you can just about feel with your nail., but I guess that would only matter on a turning opp that the saddle traveled across the transition?? And if absolutely necessary I’m sure you can compensate for it, on a part that requires that accuracy?? Does your forward reverse feed work? I’ve found from a little research it’s the weak link, so I repaired mine or I should say I’m repairing mine, I went with a 3d printed shift collar, thinking that when I crash it, it will act as a fuse, the eBay guy that sells them, sends you a couple for I think 30 bucks?? But I’ve got some extra parts if you find something you can’t find, unfortunately I don’t have an extra roller bearing, although I heard you mention they were loose when you got them, I’d pull your countershaft off, set the two front or rear screws to an equal length, and lock them in place, then use the other side to tighten it up, make sure your not squeezing the rollers, or twisting them.. and applying a heavy side load?? But just guessing , if it’s already got hot, it may need a new roller, and maybe a new bushing., if you need to, you can direct drive the spindle to motor, so you can use the lathe to check or work on the countershaft parts?