1955 International Harvester: Brakes part 1

[@dnovello]

Got to head to work; but look forward to watching every bit, when I return. Great stuff 👍👍👍

[@terrysteelman6860]

Plywood and grease under the tires and remove bearings and slide off hub

[@blairleonard3300]

Great to see your back!! Got my brake shoes relined at Edmonton Brake & Clutch.

[@RustRehab]

I'll have to keep them in mind when I eventually deal with those pads. I am not looking forward to fighting with those springs, it might be something I bring in some help for

[@brunoclassics]

​@RustRehab ah got it. They came off pretty easily and should have it back together this week. Thanks for the quick response and will keep watching ya!

[@HODGEPODGEDODGEGARAGE]

Nice work Bennett!! 😁 I was happy to see a recent upload from you my friend. Glad you're doing alright! 🔧🔩

[@RustRehab]

Thanks Zane! I'm trying to get the engine started today, but it's been a comedy of errors so far

[@HODGEPODGEDODGEGARAGE]

@@RustRehab Oh, I'm sorry my friend. Hopefully you can still get it running! Keep at it 🙂👍

[@dnovello]

Bennett, couldn't have had a better ending to my day; as watching your video updates are something to which I always look forward. This one was no exception. I enjoyed it from beginning to end. Can't believe the condition of the axles and the ease with which you removed the wheels. Can't believe the overall condition of the brake assembly, given all the time the truck spent sitting in the woods. Wheel cylinders are massive. Thanks for sharing this! Hope all is well with you.

[@RustRehab]

Thanks Paul! Glad to hear you enjoyed it. I didn't especially care very much for that video myself, it was mostly put together quite a while ago, but I've been so far behind on my editing recently that I decided I would put that one out. I believe I have enough footage for 2-3 more videos, so this summer should see way more work done. I *think* I may have to redo the steering on the truck now that the engine is in there, just not enough room. I may have to take another look at your power steering videos to see if that will work for me!

[@dnovello]

@@RustRehab let me know if you need any photos or anything

[@LN997-i8x]

You were smart to leave those Dayton wheels mounted to their centers, those wedges can sometimes fly off into orbit (and through you if you happen to be standing in their way) if you just try and remove them carelessly.

[@RustRehab]

I would love to modernize the wheels, or at least go with 1 piece rims, but I haven't had any luck. Split rims like those make me nervous, but there are spots that still service them in my area at least.

[@LN997-i8x]

@@RustRehab As far as split/locking wheels go, Dayton's are quite safe. Even conventional lock-ring wheels aren't that hazardous if you respect them.

[@glenncourtney4876]

Loosen the lug nuts and then bang on the wedges to get them loose, that way if the wedges do try to fly into orbit the lug nuts will stop them. Looks like your outside Dayton rim is cracked. I think you can find 22.5 Daytons that are modern 1 piece tubeless rims.

[@RustRehab]

@@glenncourtney4876 finding 1 peice rims is the goal there for sure. It will be a sad expense for sure, but a worth while one.

[@brunoclassics]

Working on my 47 IHC KB5 and found some new 750 20 tires out of China. Pulled the rims and at ture shop now. Once off there is another series of bolts that just spin. Look like they're going into the drum. Trying to figure out back side on and was hoping I'd see you remove rims but didn't on video unless I missed that one?

[@RustRehab]

@@brunoclassics nope, sorry! Those tires are actually still on those rims today for me. They're almost ready to go back on the truck, but there's a tire shop up my way that still does these tires so I'll just have them do it all when the time comes for a replacement

[@johnwedgeworth4908]

Finish fixing up that old red 50s Johnson outboard.

[@RustRehab]

I found one of the proper pressure style tanks for it, but I haven't looked at that motor in a while. The boat I had it for is gone now, and it's too heavy for the Argo. I've been thinking about refinishing the paint on that motor, but part of me thinks it's best just to leave the original paint on there.

[@johnwedgeworth4908]

@@RustRehab I believe you can convert the fuel pump on it to a modern fuel pump that will work with modern fittings and modern fuel tanks.

[@terrysteelman6860]

Going back on watch out for your seal

[@RustRehab]

Thanks, those tires should go back on this summer I believe. I just recently got a package with what *should* be the rest of the parts I need to finish most of the brake system.

[@judenotdead2272]

this is good content

[@owenwitteveen]

Nice work, been looking out for an AS160 to restore but hard to find. Like seeing what you find on these old trucks and how you go about cleaning it up and fixing things.

[@RustRehab]

Thanks! I would love an as160, their front end is really nice looking. I'd also like to find a smaller international, like a scout or travelall, just so I can put it in my garage and work on it over the winter time.

[@Foxies1972]

Do you have the part number or link for the rear cylinders please

[@RustRehab]

WC37180 is the part number that I used, I got it from Rock Auto but there are a few sources. There were a few different brake options for those year internationals, I think it depended on what rear axle you have.

[@daftnord4957]

I've been helping my aunt with her 1960 international bus/camper. I know the basics of hydraulic brakes on cars and motorcycles but heavy duty is a bit different. It has 2 slave cylinders per wheel like this one but each cylinder had a bleeder nipple. Worked on bleeding each wheel then i found the old brake booster underneath so maybe some of that needs bled too, i think i saw a bleeder on it? I think the main issue is the brakes are out of adjustment. Did you figure out which way to spin the star gear thing to expand the brake shoes?

[@RustRehab]

That's awesome. I don't remember what direction the star gear had to turn, but if memory serves one is upside down and needed to spin the opposite direction. I could be misremembering that though. As for the booster, that I couldn't say. I'm putting a modern one in mine along with a double pot master because I feel it's safer that way. Old school remote boosters are different beasts for sure.

[@daftnord4957]

@@RustRehab oh another thing. On the bus im working on the front brakes are different, they have i think two bolt heads. Do you know if one or both of them would be a plug for access to adjusters? Are the front brakes different on your machine?

[@RustRehab]

@@daftnord4957 I'm not sure, I know mine just had regular rubber plugs for the adjusters on the back, but I don't remember the front. I don't remember anything like that though. haven't touched the brakes for a while, it's one of the things I plan to finish off when hunting is all done up my way. If you have any photos or videos of that bus, you should upload them for sure

[@masongreen1871]

How do you adjust the front brakes on theese

[@RustRehab]

Been a while since I looked at the front, but if memory serves there are 2 adjusters on each side of the front just like on the rear.

[@graemekemp1462]

Hit the axle shaft with large hammers the shaft will bounce off

[@warrenbell496]

Those wc37180 replacements are they the same in the front and back? Thanks!

[@RustRehab]

No, the front was a different number. My fronts are WC37228 they look a little like a triangle. They're more expensive, but they fit mine perfect. Good luck with yours!

[@warrenbell496]

Thanks for the reply and info!! I have a 1955 r180 with a PTO I’m working on!! I got the from Tire off the front but the break drum seems to be stuck. Is there a trick to get that off? Thanks again!!!

[@RustRehab]

@@warrenbell496 it's been a good while since I took my front drums off, but I seem to remember mine actually coming off still attached to the rim when I removed my tires. I would say look for a little break adjustment hole (2 actually) on the back of each drum which should allow you to run the brake adjustments in a bit so that the pads will clear the drums as you try to pull them off. The pads sitting in a Grove in the drums is usually what hangs me up when I'm removing drums, but I'm far from an expert. Good luck! You should post a video of your truck sometime, I'd love to see it

[@warrenbell496]

I managed to get it off! Just had to pry. The cylinder was seized out and the break shoe was worn into the break drum!! Do you know or were you able to find replacement break drums and shoes? I’m searching but can’t really find anything. I could get away with just new break shoes And machine the drums I think 🤔 Thanks again and for posting your videos!

[@RustRehab]

@@warrenbell496 glad to hear it! I never was able to find drums, but you could probably find shoes at oldinternationaltrucks, their a business in Alberta that ship all over. Someone else here in the comments recommended a place to have the shoes relined, so that's a good option too.

[@55desotomine]

The original brakes are fantastic, do it right don't butcher it. If you want a new truck get one, don't kill another irreplaceable vintage one. International trucks were tough as nails, built to last, and their owners trusted them with their lives and their livelihoods, you can't improve it, and it will only be original once. Please don't kill this truck.

[@RustRehab]

I'd love to have a mostly original R-180, but there's nothing original about this one. I don't know if you've seen the older videos, but the entire driveline was pooched nearly 40 years ago, and it was already made from a hodge podge of other trucks at that time. Typical farm truck up this way. The only parts that are getting upgraded (for the brakes) are the master cylinders and booster, they're just not adaquate for a truck of this size. Remember, this is a 3 ton dump truck, not a half ton. That little booster won't cut it.

[@Lawrench00]

The safety factor of having a dual pot master cylinder is one of the few places I will disagree with you. I upgraded mine and it’s better all around.