1959 Triumph TR3A Restoration, Front Saddle and Transmission Tunnel Repairs.

[@craigwiest772]

Very nice work. One little job after another and pretty soon it is a great car again.

[@philtucker1224]

Good Morning David! - Once again I must compliment you on your renewal/replacement skills and great patience that you always display. (“50+ year old” is certainly an understatement with this beauty in waiting), but I suspect it will look more like a youngster when it’s had the full “Tush treatment”. - Stay well fella! 🇬🇧

[@frankmgallo]

Awesome job . Lots of time patience and dedication to make that from what is was .

[@toddadams1105]

Thanks for the videos! I’m learning so much! You’ve inspired me!

[@cheftush]

@@toddadams1105 Thanks for watching and commenting Todd. Glad that you find them helpful.

[@johnsharonwhitaker9242]

thanks Chef. I really like the video technique where you show us the work as you do it and then speed it up. A great way to show us your method. John in frozen Manitoba.

[@cheftush]

@@johnsharonwhitaker9242 Thanks John for the feedback. Cheers, Tush

[@spellacy29]

Nicely done David. That transmission tunnel will be good for another 60 years ! 👏

[@cheftush]

I’ll let the next guy restore it then 😉

[@rediband]

Amazing!

[@mikeg5877]

Productive couple days... yet again! Lookin' great!

[@joeotero3350]

Looking good Tush.. I had the same flange issue with my trans tunnel.. I had two tunnels.. the first one I repaired was really a challenge.. The second one was a bit easier as I took sections from the floor pan I had removed.. much better results.. Also, as far as addressing rust... I've been using Ospho.. this stuff works really well. Cheers

[@jafxdwg]

Chef : In our "throw away world" you are an inspiration to so many budding craftsmen and DIYers. Thank you for providing real world examples of what you can accomplish if you put your mind to it and accept only your best effort.

[@cheftush]

Appreciate it! Getting this thing back together is a long, slow process but very rewarding.

[@BruceBoschek]

Well, I really am impressed. Both repairs look amazing and are certainly structurally better than new. Thanks for taking us along and showing how to do it.

[@cheftush]

Thanks for watching!

[@wtbm123]

Looks good

[@indyme2]

Happy to wake up this morning and find a Tush TR3 video. Repair looks great. Keep the camera rolling.

[@cheftush]

My pleasure! Hope things are getting back to normal down there.

[@indyme2]

@@cheftush Things are still a mess down here. No new roof yet. Huge downed trees still blocking my drive and yard. No show on the tree guy yet. Shop is a mess with all the chain falls, chains, chain saws, etc. Working everyday to help get others back in their homes and apartments (repairs) and have no time for myself. We all took the day off for Thanksgiving to get a break so I am headed to the shop to try to do something with that disaster. Hope to get back to normal soon. Then...it's TR3 time. Daughter likes the 6 but loves the 3 and is on my case to finish it first. She gets it when I am gone. Go figure, lol. Said wearing her TR3 hat all the time doesn't cut it. She wants to drive!

[@cheftush]

@@indyme2well, Happy Thanksgiving! Hope you have a great weekend with Family!

[@indyme2]

@@cheftush Thank you, Sir. Back at ya!

[@Digital-Dan]

That 250 project made you fearless. This appears to be presenting significantly fewer places for metallic restoration. Hope so, anyhow.

[@cheftush]

@@Digital-Dan agreed Dan…not too many more welding repairs to make. I’m happy about that trust me!

[@davidwarr8600]

Having a metal transmission cover is an advantage over what I had to use in my GT6+. That one seems to be a cardboard fibreglass amalgam of some sort. Great looking job Chef!

[@cheftush]

Yes, unfortunately they started with the fiberboard with the later cars, I know my TR250 and TR6 both had the cardboard.

[@philtucker1224]

I’m wondering which material potentially absorbs the most noise…🤔

[@davidwarr8600]

@@philtucker1224 no doubt the fibre board absorbs more but matting can be added to either.

[@triumphrestoration7403]

I really enjoy your videos! Thank you! Btw, you probably already know, but metal prep is just phosphoric acid. I buy it at Home Depot for not much. Concentrate makes a lot. Klean Strip.

[@cheftush]

@@triumphrestoration7403 thanks..yes, I had the metal prep kicking around in the cabinet and just want to use it up. I used to use Ospho but I can’t get that anymore up here. Cheers, Tush

[@ThePerformanceVideo]

A good approach: don't "over restore" places that will never be seen. Make them strong and serviceable, then move on to the next issue. As always, another good video.

[@cheftush]

@@ThePerformanceVideo Thank You!

[@tomswindler64]

Nice 👍👍👍😎😎😎

[@DavidEichelbaum]

Enjoy your videos. Regarding the filler on bare metal thing, the upshot is all metals are trying to return to earth and nothing will actually stop that process, only slow it down. But modern products can slow it to the point of essentially being a non-issue for the life of the restoration. The issue with doing filler work over bare metal is multi-fold. First, no matter how fast you are the metal is already micro-rusting before you can get the filler on it and plastic fillers will in no way will stop or seal in this rusting process. Second, the metal will "sweat" and condensation will form between the metal and the filler and it will fail (usually in the form of blisters popping through a year or so after the job is completed). The solution to all of this is to first apply a high quality catalyzed epoxy primer over spotlessly clean metal before doing any body work, including filler. Sure, you'll grind away areas where repairs are done and have to touch it up but the epoxy is designed to bond to and seal the metal. Once cured it's the closest thing you can get to being an inert layer between the metal and everything else. It won't absorb moisture and it won't let corrosion pass through. You then do any filler work over the epoxy and seal it with another coat of epoxy once you're done. In other words, the filler should be trapped, or sandwiched, between layers of epoxy. Quite a few epoxies are actually thick enough (i.e. cured film thickness) to treat as a leveling primer. After the filler work is done I will usually shoot 3-4 coats of epoxy to seal any freshly exposed filler or cut thru areas (with proper flash times of course) and once cured block sand that with 80 or 100 grit using guide coat. This usually gets me 85% flat and prevents the need for an absolute ton of urethane primer on top of the epoxy. Most epoxies can also be reduced and used a "sealer" coat prior to color coats. Sorry for the long comment but I'd hate to see you have to do this again in a few years. Hope this is helpful.

[@cheftush]

@@DavidEichelbaum Thanks David, understood. As I mentioned previously in my videos, the best practice is to apply epoxy primer first and then do your body work on top of that. I do overcoat my repair areas with epoxy as suggested. Over the epoxy, I will generally either use a polyester primer or high build urethane primer ( or both depended on how bad the body is) to do my blocking. Prior to colour, I usually do a reduced sealer coat of epoxy ( did that on my last TR250 project). Cheers, Tush

[@michaelhoffman2194]

With a mixture of ‘57 and ‘59 parts…wouldn’t that make the finished product more like a ‘58? Lol Looking good.

[@cheftush]

@@michaelhoffman2194 yes I should have split the difference 😉

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

@@cheftushTR3a ? (not A !)

[@cheftush]

@ TR3EH! (Canadian Version) 😉

[@neilrogers8931]

@@cheftush That's what my license plate says.

[@cheftush]

@@neilrogers8931 awesome!

[@iceman9678]

The red frame on your thumbnail made me think that I already watched your video.

[@cheftush]

@@iceman9678 I think most of my videos have a red frame….the graphics are different though…

[@philtucker1224]

Yes it can look like that..

[@michaelhoffman2194]

So, you’re turning a ‘57 into a ‘59 TR3-a?…

[@cheftush]

Yes…I’ve got a mixture of the two..body tub and panels. 59 Front Apron, 57 body tub.

[@barry6274]

Both of those repairs look fantastic, but then I never expect any less from you. You will turn this into another show piece that your happy to drive!

[@philtucker1224]

Interesting theory, so I’m thinking: “if I use a fresh sheet of steel that I have had stored in my garage for ten years, is the replacement piece I’ve just made “new”, - or is it ten years old? 🤔

[@rickdaniel8478]

Zoom zoom 😅