1964 TR4 - Part 17 - Installing The Head

Let's install the valves on the head and the head on the block. The valves need to be adjusted too. Some more assembling in the engine bay and we are one more step closer to starting the engine :)
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#RustyBeauties #Triumph #TR4

[@RustyBeauties]

Thanks to those who pointed out the mistake in this video. I made a “special tool” and fixed the error already. I did not realize that these springs have a direction so some were upside down…. Silly me…

[@infledermaus]

Torque wrenches have such a satisfying click. 😊

[@RigelStudiosLasVegas]

It makes my day when I wake up and there's a new video posted that I can watch with my morning coffee. I am 70 years old and live on a fixed income ... otherwise I'd be signing up on your Patron site to help out.

[@snapon666]

Following carefully as I am about to reassemble my late model tr3 b so watching your every move

[@craigschlesser389]

I just wanted to confirm the thermostat housing pointing down was correct, someone installed mine up and dented the bonnet. :( Thanks again for the great videos, I really look forward to this series as my '64 is coming along also.

[@blindsouris]

Little remark, the order for tightening the cylinder head is indicated in the manual. Thanks, Nice video.

[@prefect9777]

Hi Elin Love your work, I could bore you with tales of my 65 TR4A rebuild. If you strive for perfection, my Dad told me never to leave the feeler gauge under the rocker arm whilst adjusting (bends them, flattens them ?). I still love your work and share it 😀

[@RustyBeauties]

Maybe you are right, but honestly, if that happens it would mean that my set of feeler gauges is cheap and needs to be replaced anyway LOL. I don't tighten the adjusting screw that much... and there is a spring there too so I don't think it would be that easy to flatten the hardened metal that the gauges are made of. Maybe if I started the engine with the leaf there, yeah. But a little bit of a static pressure won't be harmful.

[@kjeldlarsen7457]

thanks elin

[@timmarsh6754]

Nice job Elin. I’m glad you are honest with your mistakes. It helps us, who would probably make the same mistakes, to avoid them.

[@pda49184]

Another great video Elin.. One thing that never seems to get a mention is your camera & editing skills.. The fact we could see you putting some of the valve springs upside down is a testimony to how good the detail we see actually is. Well spotted on the carb linkage mechanism being on the wrong side.. Not many would have got that ! Another 'go to' definitive visual and entertaining instruction on all things TR.

[@RustyBeauties]

Thanks Pete! I am not really sure if the linkage is correct the way I put it, but it works better and since I know the owner is not so crazy about originality, I do the things the practical way.

[@pda49184]

@@RustyBeauties Sadly, I just can't remember how the linkage on my TR-4 was configured.. It was too long ago, but like you I'd rather a component work optimally than retain those tiny details for the sake of originality. There are fewer & fewer of us left that could precisely identify what was, or was not factory spec in 1964..

[@Andy-vo6zk]

Another great watch better than the TV here at home in the Uk. Just one thing I dare you to use the dishwasher for cleaning the next cylinder head🤐

[@RustyBeauties]

LOL, we have a kitchen we don't use.... Maybe I can use that dishwasher and the girlfriend will never find out LOL

[@BaronVonWhosit]

Elin, I'm sure you confirmed but that belt looks a smidge to wide. It looks like it sits a bit proud of 2 of the pulleys (vs resting/sitting enclosed by each pulley wall). At 21:25 you can see the light shining on the belt on the alternator pulley is slightly concave which could indicate the belt is being pinched.

[@RustyBeauties]

Yes, I doublechecked and triple checked, it is a TR2,3,4 belt...

[@MrWaalkman]

@@RustyBeauties It looks more like there is something up with that one pulley.

[@projectpacer]

Huge milestone. She is coming together quickly. The devil is in the details so they say, and that's about all that's left. Great Job.

[@leo2caf594]

Funny, coldwarmotors just did a 1937 Chev cylinder head with a valve spring mix up too😄

[@RustyBeauties]

LOL that makes me feel better :)

[@bshnabel]

Great video, thanks

[@dude36]

Looking good. I didn’t catch the upside down springs either.

[@russelblackwell6041]

Another great video coming along nicely veery well explained thank you Sir for sharing

[@garyfraser8584]

No valve seals on the valve guides in a triumph motor?

[@RustyBeauties]

Yeah, they didn't think they were needed :)

[@daveandrews5861]

Another excellent video Elin, great to watch. Can I ask about the thermostat, it does not appear to have a "giggling pin". That's the little pin that allows air/water through when cold. I also think the thermostat cover fitted like that may cause an air trap?? What do you think? Cheers, Dave.

[@RustyBeauties]

I am not familiar with this pin and I didn't check the thermostat. About the housing direction, I doublechecked with the manual later and that is the correct orientation.

[@daveandrews5861]

@Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties most thermostats had a jiggling pin. It allowed air to bleed while filling up with coolant. We usually oriented it towards the top of the stat. If you search "jiggling pin" you should find an example.

[@stevewalden3814]

For motorcycles, you can often save the cables by dripping light oil or WD40 down the cable - before giving the exercise to the cable that you did with the drill.

[@dav1dsm1th]

Mustie1 has a cool gizmo that clamps to the end of cables and seals around the cable sheath and the nozzle/pipe of a WD40 can - allowing the fluid to be forced along the inside of the cable, which works well - and saves a bit of time. A quick google for "cable oiler" pulls up the very gizmo I'm waffling about 🙂

[@RustyBeauties]

@@dav1dsm1th I have that. I don’t think this cable had an issue though

[@stevewalden3814]

@@dav1dsm1th Available on eBay, commonly used on motorcycle cables - which is how I know about it.

[@robtippin9111]

😎

[@spellacy29]

No heater?! In Canada?! What about spring and autumn cool evening drives?

[@RustyBeauties]

I guess they don't drive it at that time...

[@omphaloskeptic4989]

Good catch to all that mentioned the need for correct inlet valve 'spring direction'! Elin and I weren't aware of that specification - lol. Elin, does the manual for the TR4 mention that fact in the re-assembly procedure?

[@RustyBeauties]

Nothing in the manual.

[@jackn4853]

Elin, is there any reason why you do not use copaslip or similar when assembling components?

[@RustyBeauties]

I was just discussing it with someone else too. There is no other reason than I am just not used to taking apart my own work LOL and never had to swear at my younger self for not using anti-seize :) I have to start using it in some areas like head studs and other components that are prone to seizing.

[@Bill_9797]

Do we know why no head gasket on the tappet area between cyls 2 & 3, but there is between 1 & 2 and 3 & 4??

[@philtucker1224]

Elin, we’re the new valves lapped-in ok and did you do your normal compression ratio calculations?

[@RustyBeauties]

Yes, the machine shop lapped the valves. I did not make CR calculations as on TR4 the factory ratio is pretty good. TR6 is where they reduced it to meet the regulations.

[@jamesworsham125]

You put the 1st intake outer spring upside down. Close coils should be toward head. 😉

[@RustyBeauties]

Yes, others pointed that out too and I already fixed it. Thanks for keeping an eye on me! It is good to have backup!

[@dav1dsm1th]

They may be known as footballs in the USA/Canada - but in the UK (and the rest of the world) a football is not that shape 🙂 Stay safe out there.

[@RustyBeauties]

I know, I grew up in Europe. But spending 10 years in Canada change in a different country change the way you talk :)

[@peterleslie5735]

When I had my 3a Engine rebuilt, I was advised to put a paper gasket on the oil fed first pedestal base! Just an idea....

[@RustyBeauties]

Good idea, but then I have to add gaskets to all pedestals, to keep the shaft from bending

[@phensriwood8081]

Not necessary plenty of oil and no pressure.

[@jjmac3561]

Why are the inlet valve springs in upside down? The rockers should be slightly offset so that the valves rotate as they open.

[@RustyBeauties]

Because I didn't realize they have a direction LOL. Need to redo everything now... Thanks!

[@chrislongwill3881]

Aren't you concerned that the bottom of your "special tool" clamper will scratch, dent, or mar the top of your valve?

[@RustyBeauties]

I used to put a piece of ply wood in the combustion chamber before, but lately I stopped. I find it unnecessary. First of all the valves are much harder steel than my tool (stainless steel in this case) and second, that part of the valve is not critical for it's operation. As long as the valve seat on the head and the taper on the valve are against each other, they are protected and that is what is important.

[@garysweetland32]

Nice job. But when you have closed coil valve springs, the closed half should go towards the head. So the more elastic end is nearest the valve cap. When assembled incorrectly, you can get valve bounce at high RPM and increased wear on the cam. Unfortunately you have a lot upside down 🥴

[@RustyBeauties]

Whoops...! I haven't realized that. Hmmmm. Looks like I have some backwards steps to do now. WOW. I am so... Anyway, thank you for that! Let me go undo what I have done now LOL

[@garysweetland32]

@@RustyBeauties The easiest way without taking the head off. Is tear a strip of clean lint free rag up or use clean rope/cord. feed one end through the spark plug hole (leaving the end out ). And slowly bring the piston to TDC with the rockers off. This will gently force the valves against the seats and with a simple forked lever you can force the springs down and remove the collets (keepers). When done simply move the piston down the bore and pull out the rag/rope. Or modify a sparkplug by taking out the ceramic bit and fitting it with an air line fitting. Then air pressure will keep the valves against there seats.

[@RustyBeauties]

@@garysweetland32 I fixed them all already :) made a “special tool” Thanks for pointing that out

[@johnmoruzzi7236]

Nice… but you didn’t lap in the valves ?

[@RustyBeauties]

The machine shop did.

[@iceman9678]

I just watched another great video. Don't tell my girlfriend.

[@RustyBeauties]

😁

[@billgoin4004]

What is the model # on the face of the speedometer?

[@RustyBeauties]

It says SN6309 208062

[@billgoin4004]

Thank You