1966 Corvair - Intermittent stalling rough running Solved! Guess the PART

[@711RoyGBiv]

Thanx for creating this video. I own 3 corvairs and it is always an adventure keeping them running good - or keeping them running at all :) I learned when I owned VWs to always change the condenser when replacing the points. Amazing how such a small inexpensive part is soooo important.

[@ercost60]

This would be a great 3 minute video.

[@pierrevoyemant7137]

Man you made my day…just went through this on my 71 Peugeot. They’re in parallel with the points so you’ve basically got a low grade short. Yeah they’re almost $10 now. Hope they don’t give up on making them someday. Great video!

[@mkepler5861]

when you said it was the condenser, remember many years ago, when my Corvair was very hard to start, it was the condenser to blame!!! great video, thank you, thumbs up and a sub from me! mike

[@loboheeler]

You always changed the condenser with a point change back in the day! You also had to use OEM quality points. There were a lot of cheap parts in auto supply stores in those days, and I only used Delco-Remy in GM cars. Corvairs were very picky about ignition. My mom had a new 1963, and I took over the maintenance ASAP because the dealers were so inept. I had 3 Corvair powered vehicles and never had an ignition problem. These days I would go electronic ignition.

[@Mrsstanpoe]

Thank you for this! I just bought my second corvair and it STALLED when i would come to a light. Drove GREAT on the hwy but once I was decelerating it would just die. I am thinking it could be as simple as an idle adjustment. Any suggestions would sure be helpful!- laurie

[@grillsandaxlegrease3578]

Often it is something small but on Corvairs a small vacuum leak will do that either on the balance tubes or one of the caps on the carbs.. But the carbs need to be balanced per the shop manual. Then adjust the idle speed screws.

[@seano2178]

Patronics conversion solves the points problem.

[@jimlamb5508]

My engine ran ok at idle, but very weak power on the road. Checked all the obvious things, like carbs, timing and ignition components. Replaced all fuel filters and check carb bowl fuel levels, all were good. I did a final valve lash due to ticking noise, but it did not go away. I thought it was the fan pulley clicking because the belt jumps. WHILE looking for the noise with a screwdriver to ear at each pully, I eliminated the belt circuit. THE FUEL PUMP WAS NOT LOCKED DOWN, SO IT PUMPED MINIMAL FUEL, problem is gone!

[@briangoodman5260]

mine would idle rough in gear and when accelerating from a stop. Turned out to be my weak aftermarket ignition coil.

[@jonheddleston5515]

Yikes, what a useful video! Thank you. My '67 Monza is suffering the same malady that sidelined yours, but my mechanical skills are sorely limited. Do you have a shop--or can you recommend a Corvair Sherlock Holmes in Virginia?

[@charlesbowen354]

Had a 1960 Corvair. Wish I still had it.

[@grillsandaxlegrease3578]

I have two 1960 Corvairs. Material on those will come soon..

[@tumblelake63]

They are still cheap to buy.

[@garryblack2075]

Cheap condenser as well?

[@ratrod6161]

Hi where do you live at in sd im in baltic

[@jeffpeterson4735]

I wish you were closer I need your expertise

[@jlsracing997]

I haven't watched to the conclusion, but if it takes opening the throttle to keep the engine running, it's loading up with fuel and opening the throttle gives it more air to mix with the excess fuel. going to wait and see what the fix was.

[@garryblack2075]

Air cleaner???

[@jlsracing997]

The main culprit of burned points is the condenser. I hadn't got to that part of the video yet. Might get one of those electronic kits that replace the points.

[@jimlamb5508]

It seems you went around your elbow to find your butt. Points are always the first thing to check. People have a habit of leaving the ignition switch on when the engine is not running and that burns the points. What can be really bad is replacing the points/capacitor only to get a bad capacitor in the kit. The other interesting thing was the choke pull off vacuum leak, which has near no effect on how the engine performs. After watching your video i checked mine and had a bad one, i just plugged the tube. I would like to know more about the diagnostic steps you took such as timing, vacuum at idle at each side, idle adjustment, mixture adjustments and if the plugs now appear normal. There is more conflicting information about these engines than truth. I have 0 vacuum at idle, but it is near normal at 1500 rpm, carbs/gaskets, timing and valve timing appear to be correct. Has anyone else seen anything related to poor engine power with another solution? I have already gone to electronic ignition, so points and capacitors are not considered. Both performed the same with poor power and sputtering.

[@jimburig7064]

You can fill the fuel bowls through the bowl vent without all the cranking. BTW, you just washed the walls on the left bank.

[@grillsandaxlegrease3578]

That happened 5 years ago (Washed walls) and am replacing rings anyway so wasn't concerned with that. Had a bad float valve back then dumping fuel like you've never seen on that side. It was 5 outside so that compounded starting,. I'll get it a compression check and post when I get my videos up top date before the WI convention.

[@garryblack2075]

Save the good condensers

[@sirmister4411]

If it happens again check the resistor wire for the coil has been bypassed

[@garryblack2075]

That ridiculous seat belt your idea?

[@quagmiredavis4117]

I always buy my points sets at napa better quality and no plastic on points And fuel I use marvel mystery oil in fuel it helps lubricant everything And Delo 30 oil

[@garryblack2075]

No Chinese ignition parts

[@garryblack2075]

Forget electronic ignition just get quality parts

[@garryblack2075]

Cheap points rubbing block broke

[@garryblack2075]

Factory spec oil!!! Don't use synthetic

[@Michael-y6h9p]

You're supposed to plug the vacuum, not let it run open that's why it backfires