1967 VW Beetle - Fixing Leaks & Loose Shifter - Trunk & Interior Work

.With our 1967 VW Sunroof Beetle now driving again, Sam works on making sure that everything operates as it should. He starts by diagnosing and fixing some leaking master cylinder grommets and fittings. He replaces the worn out shift rod bushing and coupler so the shifter doesn't flop around so much. The dashboard is tidied up a bit with a new grab handle to fill the holes in the dash, and a new glove box is fitted. A new hood release cable is routed and connected so the hood can be latched and locked. Then while in the trunk he shows how the defroster hoses are connected before bolting down the gas tank, installing a trunkliner and an antenna. Inside the car, a new steering wheel is installed and a temporary fix is screwed into place to cover the unsightly hole in the dash from a previous stereo install. Follow along and enjoy as Sam gets the Beetle one step closer to being road worthy again in time for the VW Airhead Campers VW Round Up in Florence, AZ.
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Parts we used that are available online at JBugs.com:
www.jbugs.com/... - Master Cylinder Grommet
www.jbugs.com/... - Shift Rod Bushing
www.jbugs.com/... - Shift Rod Bushing Clip
www.jbugs.com/... - Shift Coupler
www.jbugs.com/... - Dash Grab Handle
www.jbugs.com/... - Glove Box
www.jbugs.com/... - Hood Release Cable
www.jbugs.com/... - Heater Channel to Defroster T Hose
www.jbugs.com/... - Defroster T to Outer Dash Vent Hose
www.jbugs.com/... - Defroster T to Center Dash Vent Hose
www.jbugs.com/... - Gas Tank Hold Down Bracket
www.jbugs.com/... - Trunk Liner
www.jbugs.com/... - Antenna
www.jbugs.com/... - Steering Wheel
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Videos are intended for entertainment purposes. Factory specifications should be followed when performing any task on your vehicle.

[@Ryan_Dye-r]

I just got a new Master cylinder for my '69 VW Bug.

[@backyardkombi5466]

All the good stuff

[@GT.Bugger]

Can't beat getting all the little jobs done. Makes all the difference.

[@mrrob516]

I would love to daily this beetle, is turning out so good.

[@eduardorodriguez3262]

A touch of OGness... I like that loving the progress Can't wait to see it done👍🇩🇪

[@loopflex9359]

Jobs getting done quick fast . Much ❤ from 🇬🇧

[@stuck1000]

Good stuff! Can't wait to see it done.

[@jemcnair76]

And for people doing Super Beetles the shift rod on the 1973 1/2 doesn't come out the front. The Supers are longer so you just shove the rod all the way forward and you can clear the bushing. The drawback is you can't clean up the rod very well. You can only clean up a few inches at a time with sandcloth and a lot of brake cleaner. And then only grease up what you have cleaned AS you push it through.... because that grease will pick up 50 years of G-d knows what and befoul your new bushing. Great work Sam, and JBUGS. I hope you weren't offended by my CAIG contact cleaner post. It is just something us electrical nerds (guitar techs and car people) tell everybody about.

[@Sam_Mebane]

Actually, the shift rod does come out the front in Super Beetles as well, although the job is slightly different. There is a hole cut in the front of the frame head behind the crumple guard. I did it with the body off here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZPXm5impNd-b5o but I've had friends that have done it with the body on on 75 and later Super Beetles.

[@Sam_Mebane]

Oh, and no worries about the CAIG, all info is good info, especially for those that don't know!

[@jemcnair76]

@@Sam_Mebane I didn't know that. I took off that front cover on the SB and there was nothing there... as in just steel. No hole. I thought it was pretty bizarre. But then again that car was wrecked long before I had it and who knows what was installed. It was a plate with a gasket and two holes tapped for the bolts, but it covered nothing at all. Who knows? Or was I messing with the wrong plate?

[@Sam_Mebane]

@@jemcnair76 It's hard to see the hole in this video but the hole is in the front of the chassis, behind the front crumple guard (at least that's what I call it) - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKavo6yjZtOjj8U

[@jemcnair76]

@@Sam_Mebane Weird. I got the correct hole (!) from watching that video, but nothing there. I don't have the crumple guard, either. Who knows what happened to these cars in the last 50 to 90 years. I only have the 1973 Super so I can only make comparisons vicariously through videos like yours. In any case, I thank you. Keep up the good work and G-d Bless.

[@JMC8415]

Should use silicone based grease. You'll like have swelling occur sooner than later on those rubber grommets.

[@Sam_Mebane]

I didn't look at the compound of the grease so I only applied it to the top edge of the plastic. As I wanted the top to seal the grommet to the fitting, a little swelling on the rubber at the top would only help seal it better. In the end, most of the grease squeezed out and I think the biggest issue was the flashing on the fittings. I ended up pulling the tank a couple weeks later and the fittings were still dry and the reservoir is still full. Either way, thanks for the tip!

[@SimiNelsonFamily]

One issue I can see is the rubber supply lines from the brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinder. It looks like black fuel line, which won’t tolerate brake fluid for too long.

[@Sam_Mebane]

You haven’t replaced the “blue” line in awhile then is my guess. Continental changed the color to black a few years back… www.jbugs.com/product/N203501.html

[@SimiNelsonFamily]

@@Sam_Mebane ahh. Good to know. Thanks.

[@SanDiego_VDubLife]

Great work buddy. Are all parts supplied by jbugs? Maybe links to parts in the description?

[@Sam_Mebane]

Yes, they are. Click the show more button, they are all there!

[@Ryan_Dye-r]

I've been bleeding the brakes for the new master cylinder on my '69 VW Bug. I keep pumping the pedal while someone else opens and closes the bleeder nut. Just only air keeps coming out.

[@Sam_Mebane]

If you still haven't got them bled by now, try removing the rear brake line at the master cylinder. Pump the master cylinder once or twice to make sure it is pushing fluid out the port. Reconnect the line, go to the back right wheel cylinder and remove the line. Pump (and continually check the reservoir) until fluid comes out at the rear. Then reconnect the lines and try bleeding the brakes normally.

[@Ryan_Dye-r]

@@Sam_Mebane Do the rear brakes need to be bled before the front brakes?

[@Sam_Mebane]

Yes, start with the right rear, then the left, then the front right, then the front left.

[@alexzamora6414]

If you were an average Joe, How much would you have spent to get to where you are on this project?

[@Sam_Mebane]

I'm actually working on compiling a list to show just that. Grant it, the way we did it isn't the cheapest way and I want to show the options the way we did it as well as doing it on a budget. Spending $80 for the stainless steel AirKewld Six-Shooter clutch cable wingnut versus $2.95 for a new one, or just using the original, etc. Some things I did weren't exactly necessities, just niceties!