1968 CASE 580CK TRACTOR: REMOVING THE INJECTION PUMP

[@gerlandkent6377]

thank, you for you're video.👍 I, just had to buy a new replacement injection pump for my 1966, case ck. 530 diesel Backhoe. $3 thousand]

[@EverydayProjects]

Ouch💀‼️❌ But now it will last. 🤞

[@steveg5268]

Thankyou for showing this, I have the same problem with my 69 580ck. Its been sitting for a few years.

[@EverydayProjects]

I rebuilt the pump in another video (one video showing the complete disassembly and a second video showing it going back together with new parts). I tried it in the tractor and at first couldn't get fuel up to the injectors then I discovered a hole in an injector line that I have yet to fix.

[@dalehinson98]

Thanks for the video just brought a old ck and have the same thing happening waiting for the tare down and rebuilding

[@EverydayProjects]

Hi Dale, here is the tear down video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZK6XoqNi6h9rZI The reassembly video will be up this week. Thanks for tuning in and good luck with your old tractor.. Craig

[@GrampiesWorkshop]

Good day eh!!! It sure looks like the injector pump is at fault here eh!! A lot of work to get it out, but you did the right thing removing all those filters and so on. It sure makes getting at the pump easier. Here's hoping the rebuild goes smooth!!! Take care!!!

[@EverydayProjects]

The most important thing was when I shut off the fuel at step 63! haha. Pulling the pump was the last thing I wanted to do but it WAS the problem. I can't tell what I found inside yet, but all indicators are that it was plugged with varnish and sludge.I appreciate your comments and always look forward to seeing you here on the channel. Thanks Mike!

[@danieldutra3013]

Well done video...Curious though before I run out of knuckles, how do you turn the crank?

[@EverydayProjects]

I was using a socket on the end of the crankshaft. The main hydraulic pump must be removed for this, though, because it sits directly in front of the crank pulley and is driven by the crank. Good Luck. You can also use a flat bar. like a big screwdriver, to turn the teeth on the flywheel with the starter out but the socket on the crank pulley worked better.

[@nhengineer1943]

Good job with the videos. With reference to timing the pump, the engine is 4-cycle so the pump need to fire (looking at #1 position for simplicity) every second revolution of the crank. That means the the pump shaft turns half as fact as the crank. Therefore, you are correct (I think) that, if you set the pump lines in the window, the crank should be at TDC for the end of the compression stroke. If you see the lines on the pump but no mark on the flywheel, it is TDC (#1 cylinder) at the end of the exhaust stroke.

[@EverydayProjects]

That's right. What's important is that the static timing for the engine be correct before installing the pump (if installing a pump when the engine has been turned while the pump is out), which is, the timing mark on the flywheel is set at 8 degrees before TDC. Or, if you line up the marks in the pump before removing the pump and install a pump on the marks without turning the engine. Both will work. I rebuilt the pump and commented on the position of the timing marks on the governor weight cage while putting it back together. If the timing marks in the pump cannot be located in the window then one of two things has happened: The engine was turned while the pump was out and wasn't set back to TDC #1 before install. Or The pump was incorrectly assembled resulting in the timing marks aligning in the opposite window (Block side) and the engine is trying to fire at TDC EXHAUST #1. Thanks for your comment and good luck with your engine.

[@GardenTractorBoy]

This looks like a scary job and unless this is something you do every day, caution is always good. Great job getting the pump out

[@EverydayProjects]

An old diesel mechanic told me to never try to repair an injection pump myself but I am a guy who enjoys a challenge (plus I always want to push myself into new areas of learning) so I will be attempting the repair on my own. There are several helpful videos about these pumps. I wouldn't rest easy just taking it into a shop for the rebuild unless I first attemped it myself. Wish me luck!

[@GardenTractorBoy]

@@EverydayProjects Good luck and I am looking forward to following along if you video progress

[@skookumsawmilling7653]

Trying to get my newly rebuilt engine to start. I have fuel to the pump and past the little strainer. Should I have fuel in the governor housing? When I removed the cover it was bone dry and didn't appear to have had any fuel in it. I have cracked all the injector lines and am not getting fuel to them.

[@EverydayProjects]

Yes, the governor chamber must have fuel in it. There are a couple of things that will prevent fuel from being passed through the pump. 1. the pressure regulator piston (contained inside the end cover of the pump) could be stuck. Remove the end cover and disassemble the pressure regulator. See my video posted last week. 2. The delivery valve (inside the pump rotor could be stuck). See my video re-assembling stanadyne roosa master pump posted last fall. 3. The two pump plungers are stuck (see same video disassembly and re-assembly of the pump). Sometime, when the internals get stuck with varnish and sludge, it will clear if you apply compressed air to the fuel inlet to the pump but not always though. Try blowing air into the inlet and if that doesn't work put a solvent (Like Seafoam) into the inlet and turn the engine to distribute the solvent. Maybe that will clear it. 4. The vanes in the lift pump (visible when you take the end cover off) could be worn. 5. The metering valve could be stuck. Remove governor cover and check (see video of re-assembling the pump). Good luck.

[@skookumsawmilling7653]

@@EverydayProjects so, I removed it yesterday and started disassembly. Bad news, the ball stud would not budge. I pb’d it, applied gentle heat, and it actually broke. The side of the socket broke out. I have no idea what to do now. I let it set with pb overnight but I probably will have to have it machined out as I can’t reach in to grab it with anything.

[@EverydayProjects]

@@skookumsawmilling7653 They sell new ball studs for the cam advance. I don't have the part number but any good diesel shop will have a parts breakdown of you pump model number. I bought parts that I needed from a place called GCL DIESEL in EDMONTON, Alberta CANADA. They ship anywhere and were excellent to deal with. Here is their contact pnone number: 1-800-661-4425 Email [e-mail]

[@EverydayProjects]

@@skookumsawmilling7653 also, you can look up their website. They are a North American distributor and ship parts anywhere: gcldiesel.com/contact-us/

[@EverydayProjects]

I think this is the part number: Cam Advance Screw Stanadyne part number 33627. Good luck!

[@DIYVariety]

Nice trick with the vise grip and screw driver. lol i always forget to turn fuel off.

[@EverydayProjects]

There is always another way to get a bolt out! Sometimes vice-grips are your best friend!

[@michaelkennedy2528]

@@EverydayProjects I have that exact same tractor, an am going to be pulling the pump as well. Also, the end (handle) of the screw driver is designed to put a wrench on it. It may be like a 19 or 21 or whatever, but it is designed for that purpose, generally a 12 point closed nd obviously. Also, I have some of the original manuals on this if you need anything.

[@EverydayProjects]

@@michaelkennedy2528 Thanks for the tip about the screwdriver. I pulled the pump and rebuilt it and learned a lot. I had to take it off and check several things. The video isn't up yet but I should do that soon. I didn't want to show the rebuild then not be able to show it running afterwards. So far, I have other issues such as stuck rings (I Think). This tractor sat outdoors for 17 years. It is slowly getting back on its feet. I think it will start eventually. I have an original manual too. Very handy to have. It was in an old shed for the same length of time and it got a bit mouldy. Sometimes when I'm looking info up I have to hold the manual at arms length, but the smell is going away.

[@michaelkennedy2528]

@@EverydayProjects Good deal, where are you located? I have a ton of "tightening up" to do on this tractor, seems all the control handle bushings for the front bucket need to be re-done, the handle nearly blows in the wind lol. Thanksfully I have a lathe and can make 90% of the bushings if they are not available. Also, almost all the hoses have to be replaced, thankfully Napa makes hoses at a decent price. I really look forward to the video, want to pull the pump either this weekend or Monday. Where did you find the kit for the pump rebuild?

[@EverydayProjects]

@@michaelkennedy2528 I'm in British Columbia, Canada. The kit is available on Amazon. Here is the link: www.amazon.com/Stanadyne-Roosa-Diesel-Injection-STANADYNE/dp/B073RR353T/ref=sr_1_3?crid=AX8FUQ54EPUP&keywords=roosa+master+injection+pump+rebuild+kit&qid=1653046687&sprefix=roosa%2Caps%2C812&sr=8-3. You'll also want to buy the solid weight retainer upgrade: www.amazon.com/Stanadyne-Solid-Weight-Replace-29111/dp/B06XH8ZKQB/ref=sr_1_5?crid=AX8FUQ54EPUP&keywords=roosa+master+injection+pump+rebuild+kit&qid=1653046837&sprefix=roosa%2Caps%2C812&sr=8-5. You'll also want to get a couple of extra shaft unbrella seals (a pair comes in the kit but they are easy to break when installing). I'm going to see if I can get the video edited and posted. Good luck !

[@leroypalmer2879]

I screwed up before finding this video, I have the pump pulled out until it hit the fuel filter apparatus, not able to come all the way out. I searched for another video and found yours telling me how to remove the fuel block out of the way. The problem is I learned from this video I should have lined up the marks on the side of the pump and had the #1 cyl. on TDC. Now I cant slide the injector pump back on to do this line up; what can I do now?

[@EverydayProjects]

Engines and pumps are rebuilt all the time, turned out of relation to one another and then mated together so they work, so don't worry. Set the engine at top dead center #1 look through my videos, there's one where I time the engine . I think it is the one showing open valve train in the thumbnail. Install the pump and match the lines in the inspection cover when the engine is at #1 TDC. If you encounter any problems write back and I'll try to help.

[@junkmunkeys]

A tree branch got wedged in-between my engine block and injection pump, and the backhoe shut off when it happened. Now i got no fuel when I bleed the lines, do you think I need to rebuild? Or is there a safety cut off somewhere?

[@EverydayProjects]

There is no safety cut off. What may have happened is something got bent, maybe the pump driveshaft, maybe the pump casing. Probably best to remove the pump and check to see what happened. The aluminum casing is thin and can be damaged. For example it is recommended not to place the pump body in a vise when working on it for this reason. If the rotor is distorted then fuel may be bypassing the ports out to the injector lines. I have videos posted on my channel of a complete pump rebuild, one showing the complete teardown and another showing the complete reassembly process. Another possibility is that the lift pump on the back end of the injection pump became damaged and isn't passing fuel to the pump rotor. Again, it operates with close tolerances. Remove the 4 bolts from the end of the pump, remove the cover and check to see if the vanes in the pump are free to move. I wish you the best of luck with this. Please let me know what you discover.

[@waynezuccarello9698]

Hello, is it normal for the shaft to be loose and wiggly after the pump is removed?

[@EverydayProjects]

@@waynezuccarello9698 Yes, to some degree. Depending on how loose. It is driven by gearing and dependent on the backlash between the gears. Of course, really loose would indicate worn gears, some play is expected. Once the shaft mates with the pump it is held steady.

[@brentdoiron6622]

great video do you have any with power steering pump hook up also k bought same tractor with no knowledge about it so your videos help me a lot I don't know what type of fluids to use in floor of cab two dip sticks what type fluids go in and how to drain what type of fluid for power steering also how to adjust breaks I have very little breaks I know it's a lot when ever you have time for a vid or reply once again thks you have helped me out lots

[@EverydayProjects]

Coincidentally, today I ordered some new hydraulic hoses for the tractor. I will have a video in a week or two. The dipsticks depend on the type of tractor and drive. If you have a shuttle clutch the fluid is universal tractor fluid in the torque tube. But if you have a manual clutch it will be different. The final drive (rear end) takes gear oil. It sound like you will need to buy a Repair Manual for the tractor. There are many aftermarket ones for sale on eBay. Also, there are several online tractor resources and forums you could join. They have question and answer forums for members. Also, there are several antique tractor places that have parts, such as Yesterdaystractors.com as just one example. I hope to see you here on the channel. Good luck and thanks for watching!

[@ATMartinez-ys9kc]

Hello, I have a case diesel 188 number 2075357 and I’m trying to find the year of the engine? Please, any idea? Thank you!

[@EverydayProjects]

I believe that the YEAR is indicated by the two digits AFTER the first two. Yours would be built in 1975. Here's an article on that. I think this is right. Does that sound like it would be the year for yours? The date code for the engine is built into the serial number after the first two numbers. As an example, a 2013 engine would read something like this, 1013426. The “13" designates it as a 2013 engine.

[@EverydayProjects]

After sleeping on it, I might have that wrong. Not sure if the article I sent applied to older 188 engines. They are made by Perkins and maybe there is a more definitive way to determine the year of manufacture at Perkins.

[@heliarche]

Maybe not as intimidating as I thought. Of course I'm not the one doing the work and it's not opened up yet. It does look easier than a VW 1.6 diesel at this point though.

[@EverydayProjects]

Pretty straight forward. The biggest struggle was trying to find the timing marks on the flywheel: the inspection plug was seized solid and needed heat and 1/2 hour to remove, oil from the torque tube coasts the flywheel on every turn making the timing marks impossible to see (until I yanked the starter and would wipe a few inches of flywheel at a time searching for them), plus the alignment mark on the pump was so faint that I couldn't see it at all. My better half found it while I turned the engine and she wore 3 pairs of reading glasses and used a flashlight (I love that girl!). More to come soon. I have the pump apart!

[@heliarche]

@@EverydayProjects My Dad always put some white out or other white paint on hard to see things such as timing marks. Now and then when I'm working on something I see a mark he left and I know that he was there!

[@EverydayProjects]

@@heliarche A colorful timing mark is always welcome. I was thinking to mark this one then I tried to think what to use because this flywheel is inside a wet-sump of the torque tube. The universal tractor fluid coats the flywheel on every revolution and it has to be wiped off to see the marks. paint would probably stay on well if the surface was prepped. On a related topic, I just got back from a hydraulic shop with new power steering hoses and the bill was way more than I thought it would be--perhaps I should have a lay down until the bill is forgotten ! hahaha

[@heliarche]

@@EverydayProjects If you're to run it even as just a tractor for pulling and pushing I'd imagine power steering is going to be an essential. Mine is tough even with it if there's any kind of load in the front bucket. Once you get it going, it's a real game changer.