1974 Porsche 911 coupe: 2.7L Engine removal/diagnose/disassemble [4K] Ep109

[@darylhaack7752]

Happy New Years. Great video. Looking forward to seeing your progress. What the heck was in that one cylinder? Looked like a nest. Cheers

[@afternoongarage]

Video published 1-1-24 @ 12:00. Not sure what that was, had to have been liquid at one time because it destroyed the valve seat on the head as the valve was slightly open and electrolysis took over. This is the cylinder where everything started. Happy New Years to you too!

[@r.arabian3056]

Nice video. Was entertaining, and interesting to see what they look like when they actually pull. Please continue with the series!

[@vin9114]

I would definitely take that magnesium case to a reputable porsche machine shop and have it align honed. They'll also perform whatever updates are necessary like shuffle pins, etc. Excellent video....looking forward to the next one 👍

[@afternoongarage]

No. This can be done in a garage. There are so many folks out there that insist on a machine shop. Not going to have it line bored or any pins or anything like that. Inserts, yes I will be putting in those. It is a 7R case and has the reinforced bosses, not going to worry about any thing but inserts and fixing the damage to the heads and cylinders.

[@vin9114]

@afternoongarage oh ok didn't know that. I'll be looking forward to seeing how its done. Thanks

[@afternoongarage]

Me too! This engine is complex, but not a horsepower monster. This being my third 911, I want to try to break even with this build. The last two were money pits for sure. I have good feelings this isn't going to drain the bank account if I am careful. We will see! Thanks for watching.

[@EhWassAmattaU]

Anyone that knows anything about the 2.7 engine, knows this problem is because of the increased displacement (and resulting H.P.) and the mag case. It wasn't common with the 2.4, and is non-existant in the 3.0 (because of the alu case). The fix? Tear down the entire engine, put timeserts in EACH head bolt thread, and rebuild the engine. If you only fix that one stripped thread, another one will happen. "they" used to think it was because of different rates of thermal expansion between the cylinders and the head studs, and invented dilivar head studs (that break). If you put the timeserts in, and use factory head studs, the pulling problem is fixed, and the headstud won't break. How do I know this? I did it to my 2.7, 20 years ago, still have the car, no issues...

[@afternoongarage]

Someone ran this engine for quite some time with loose head nuts. I am sure the thing sounding like a diesel was an indicator that something was wrong, but kept running it anyway. I found lots of damage other than head studs from someone running it with the head gaskets leaking. Time Serts are old tech. Although effective, they have been known to pull also. I will be using Case Savers which are considerably more strong due to larger diameter and more aggressive threads. Going to get this one back together soon for all to see. Thanks for providing a useful comment and thanks for watching!

[@jasonrevel7201]

Good luck. Have a 2.7 too so feel your pain.

[@afternoongarage]

It is amazing that a 135 BHP engine can be this complicated. I will be doing the entire thing in the garage.

[@john2ndname]

My magnesium 2.7ltre has time serts (case savers)on the head studs and my engine is rock solid tight with no loose studs.all magnesium cases must have time serts!

[@moeh2284]

Do you plan on doing any machine work to the case? I hear they are notorious for warping as well!

[@afternoongarage]

Obviously I need to put in some threaded inserts. Not going to line bore the block. I am going to get in there, fix what is broken and get out.

[@moeh2284]

@@afternoongarage I respect that, it’s really easy to get out of control and overdo things, also appreciate you DIY-ing the full thing and documenting it as well

[@afternoongarage]

It is the reinforced magnesium case, I feel comfortable. Now, if I put in new bearings and close the case and discover that the crank is binding, then I will need to ship this somewhere. You are correct in the statement that the cost can get out of control. Full machine work on this case would have been over $4k. I think it can be done cheaper myself. I have a video series on a Fisker Karma where I took the batteries out and changed just the individual cells that were defective. I was told over and over it couldn't be done and that car is still on the road years later and running like a top. I am going to do the same here. Thanks for watching!