1976 Cadillac Eldorado CV Boot Replacement

Replace a torn or damaged CV Boot on a front wheel drive classic Cadillac.

[@mohammedalhoshan4279]

Thank you very much man, I discovered today that grease is coming out of my Eldorado 76, I was sad for that and I came to KZbin to know how to fix it, God bless you 👍

[@westofthelakecadillacclub]

Always happy to help! Thanks for watching.

[@buick9812]

Thanks for the video keep them coming

[@xmbjams]

Love it I have a 1977 Cadillac El Dorado will indeed be tuned up

[@axelnilsson8292]

Thanks for these videos, very helpful. If you have the opportunity, please do a walk-through under the hood

[@derekcrymble9085]

Why did you disconnect the top of the "A" arm ? The whole axel WILL come out so you can do both boots . I have done this job on my 75 . Also the damper shaft on the other side is exactly the same size and length as the drive axels . My damper tore it's rubber , and was left at a off straight angle .I was away from home , and couldn't get a new one . So I was able to find a wrecking yard and took a drive axel and removed the c/v joints . Worked perfectly . I did drive gently , till I got home . Love these cars .

[@westofthelakecadillacclub]

We were trying to keep the car as original as possible and only needed the outer boot. Besides, we would have missed the chance to use our giant gyno machine! 🤣

[@WSNO]

I'm in Massachusetts, how does one find their local Cadillac/LaSalle club on this modern internet? I came across this channel purely by chance researching the '87 Fleetwood Brougham in the pre-acquisition phase.

[@westofthelakecadillacclub]

Congratulations on starting the buying process of a 1987 Cadillac Brougham, they’re hard not to love. Here’s the contact information for your local region. Nice people and they’ll be glad to hear from you. NEW ENGLAND (1958) Robert Ricci 100 Exchange St., Unit 1001 Providence, RI 02903-2617 401-529-7249 [e-mail] nerclc.com

[@barneswallace1944]

Well done.

[@eldobiarritz1978]

I recently did the same job on a 78 Eldorado, I was wondering if the 110ft lbs that the manual says to torque the drive axle nut is enough or it needs to be more tight. 110 does not seem enough compared to the effort I put when trying to loosen it.

[@westofthelakecadillacclub]

I thought the same thing, but then realized that the nut was frozen in place due to moisture and rust, so it took more effort to remove. Stick with what the manual says and you'll be just fine. Thanks for watching.

[@scoyerichardson492]

Question dose the tie and center link have to be level with each other?

[@westofthelakecadillacclub]

Thanks for watching and reaching out. I'm not 100% sure I know what you mean. For this video, I just lifted the car and placed a second jack under the axle to remove the pressure, then took everything apart and put it all back together the same way. It was only apart for 20 minutes and everything went back into the same position. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

[@frankalbano7333]

What size socket will fit that axel nut? Thanks in advance.

[@westofthelakecadillacclub]

I don’t recall, but it was bigger than what comes in my standard set, I had to borrow one from a mechanic friend.

[@paullundgren6319]

Doesn’t the torsionbar give problems? I need to replace the lower balljoint. The manual says you need to remove the entire lower controlarm, which involves removing the torsionbar… It seems to me I ought to be able to get the rivets off and replace the balljoint following this video? The torsion bar scares me a bit though, not used to it. Doesn’t it put a lot of pressure on the lower control arm? Thanks for the videos, keep them coming please! Greetings from Sweden!

[@westofthelakecadillacclub]

Thank you for watching! I’m not 100% sure, but I think they suggest remove the entire lower control arm because it creates more space to remove the balljoint. I haven’t had experience with the torsion bar, for safety reasons I would follow the manual. Let me know how it goes (you know, if you still have fingers to type). Just kidding. Follow the manual. Thanks for reaching out!

[@paullundgren6319]

Thanks for the response! Much appreciated! I’m just thinking that it looks like you have plenty of space in the video to remove the lower balljoint? You didn’t do anything to the torsionbar, did you? Suppose the lower control arm just stays in the lowest position when the shockabsorber is removed and and the balljoints split? When there’s nothing but the torsionbar affecting the lower control arm. No problem in lifting the control arm up with a jack, to put it together again? In that case I should be able to just follow your video? Thanks!/Paul

[@frankalbano7333]

The sway bar should keep the lower control arm from snapping up abruptly. You can use the jack like the other comment said to lift the lower control arm and get the ball joint stud through the knuckle when you're re-assembling. Hope that helps.

[@paullundgren6319]

⁠@@frankalbano7333Thanks! Yes, it worked out fine! The swaybar kept the control arm in place and I replaced the balljoints without problems. Need to remove the control arms eventually though, the bushings look like they might benefit from being replaced… But that can to wait until winter!

[@primitivebob8781]

Please! I've reused nearly every cotter pin I've been able to reuse. I'm 64 and rolling well. Coat hanger wire, bailing wire and nails!

[@andyvitale6071]

And what's then name of that tool? Good video.

[@westofthelakecadillacclub]

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIV4KA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Dorman 614-030 Uni-Fit CV Joint Boot Tool. Thanks for watching!

[@abdullahaltalha7462]

How can i knew my car Axle damage?

[@westofthelakecadillacclub]

Most times it is just the rubber boot. Drive the car slowly and turn the wheel from side to side, listen for any clunking noises or jerking movement of the steering wheel. If everything feels and sounds normal, then it is just the boot that needs to be replaced.

[@abdullahaltalha7462]

@@westofthelakecadillacclubcv axle@@westofthelakecadillacclub

[@hurricane2649]

@@westofthelakecadillacclub What I used to do many years ago was to get on the highway with the window open and drive in the lane that was closest to the highway divider. If it is bad you will hear a very audible "ticking" sound and it is very distinct. If you hear that should that means the bearings are rattling around and are worn. If you hear nothing but road noise then you are fine.