1979 Saab 96 V4 engine overhaul

[@observersnt]

48 years ago since I overhauled my 96, V4 with a Weber 28/36 DCD carburettor, “plastic” timing gear wheel, overdrive and column change. Happy memories. A car that attracted devotion. Thank you

[@larrylautenschlager2915]

I just saw this one. It probably won’t matter in use, but the rear balance shaft bearing should be installed in reverse so the horizontal gallery in the bearing can feed the axial load surfaces between the shaft and block. I have taken apart engines done like yours and it didn’t seem to be causing major issues though. There is some wear there, but not enough to cause engine failure. Your transmission jig and work seems well thought out and much better than most people who try without a jig. I hope you are enjoying the car now.

[@autka_me]

Hi Larry, sorry for getting back to you so late. In video I’m specifically pointing that bearing I remember that there was something about this. From what I remember someone said that it improves circulation and those surfaces will be oiled anyway. Few commenters pointed this out, but as you said there’s not much wear there and I don’t see anything in oil either. We’ll see how it develops. Car since I’ve finished restoration made around 6000 kilometers and is a great joy. Cheers

[@bfarm44]

Such a fun little engine to build.

[@autka_me]

It was a great fun!

[@aureliobrighton1871]

I heard it through the grapevine, Ikea pistons only grow in Sweden. Thankyou for the closeups :). I have also just learned the V4 produced up to 175 hp in its last Rallye evolution 😱

[@autka_me]

Hope they are useful (closeups). Afaik factory tuned turbo V4 bored and stroked to 1.9 produced 200 HP which made this car go 0-100km/h in 5 seconds.

[@heathcole3761]

man! i sure wish i had the knowledge and skill set to do what you just did! amazing! i have my eye on a 1971 SAAB 95 and i'd love to be able to take care of it myself and keep it running as long as i can. thanks for sharing your process!

[@autka_me]

Thank you! That’s very kind. There’s not really much to it, just stick to the repair manual. Saab ones are very good, I’ve got Haynes as well, but the original repair/maintenance manual is enough to do engine overhaul. Speaking of which check out Hagerty Redline Rebuilds here on KZbin if you haven’t yet. Not only very informative but very nicely done and cinematic.

[@heathcole3761]

@@autka_me thanks so much for the info! much appreciated!

[@onepairofhands]

well done - always a great feeling when it starts up for the first time

[@autka_me]

Thank you. It really is.

[@martinneumann7783]

Very cool! Thanks for the views inside the engine. Cheers - Martin

[@autka_me]

Thanks! Im glad it can help in any way.

[@CarlChaitanya]

Beautiful I have just managed to pick one up in good condition that is still running and will start work on in a few moths. Well done

[@autka_me]

Thanks! Good luck with the restoration. I’ll post gearbox overhaul soon so stay tuned

[@deweyfoulk3630]

That is the right carb and intake manifold.

[@nutsarefancy]

I got a Ford CL40 skid steer. The engine looks exactly like that. I believe mine was made by ford Germany.

[@autka_me]

That’s very likely the same engine. Ford for some reason made two V4: this one which is ‘Cologne’ in Germany and ‘Essex’ in England. Those two of course being widely incompatible between themselves. Cologne had many non-car applications like pumps, forklifts, skid steers and stuff like that.

[@wimcomeyne7775]

Nice! I also just redid mine (vid on my channel), it is such a pleasure hearing it go the first time again!

[@autka_me]

It sure is. I love that you can start those engines on a stand with few wires and that’s it, no ECU, no sensors. That electrolysis rust cleaning is interesting. What was the voltage/current and what was added to the water? Table salt?

[@wimcomeyne7775]

@@autka_me baking soda :) I used a 12V battery charger with an old battery as buffer. Quite a simple process but with excellent result. The balance bearing were also pretty worn on yours I see :)

[@wimcomeyne7775]

@@autka_me also using the Novol paints? :) the more I see from your site and videos the more similarities I see with my Capri restauration :)

[@autka_me]

@@wimcomeyne7775 great, thanks! Yeah balancer bearings are weak spot of that engine, surprisingly ’plastic’ timing gear lasts longer then them.

[@autka_me]

@@wimcomeyne7775 Yup, besides engine (VHT primer, color and clear coat) and gas tank (outside RD Elastometal inside Tapox) everything has been painted with Novol products from their 'Novol for Classic Car' line. Top coat is Spectral 2k direct gloss and underside is Novol Cobra truck bedliner PU paint colored with same spectral that top of the body was done. The plastic 'grill' was restored with satin black and matt silver from Novol Industrial series (for some reason they don't offer matting additive anymore). For seam sealer I've used APP PU-50.

[@themusthavestangarnold7630]

How do I adjust the valves ... the bolts are not going smoothly...?

[@autka_me]

Hi! Sorry somehow I’ve missed notification for your comment. Those are interference fit threaded bolts and are meant to move that snug. Notice that there’s no counter nut to block them just the tight fit. Setting valves require some procedure check out Saab 96v4 service manual (freely available to download online). Cheers

[@paulyarlett1238]

I had a Ford capri MK1with the 2,0 V4 so I pulled it out and scraped it and converted it to a 2,0 O H C with twin fortys and a Kent cam and a four branch manifold ,then got bored with that so fitted a V8 ROVER S D 1 with 5 speed offenhouser manifold and a Carter 625 card that sorted it .

[@autka_me]

Nice! What was the power output on that Rover V8?

[@Valko67]

225 HP , i have once hived de Rover Vitesse 3500 injection with manual race gear and brought it to a 4.8 liter with 385 HP before i crashed , oupss , those rovers where terrible in road tenue after to much power they can't handle , it was like the back would passing the head or something like that , when the road was wet it was deadly , i know because i experimented than , but it was still a very nice car , it was a 1985 build @@autka_me

[@Valko67]

but originaly it was 225 HP and with a automatic gear , beurk

[@Phiyedough]

I didn't realise until today that there were 2 different V4 engines used by Ford Europe at this time. This is the Taunus engine, designed in USA but there was also the V4 and V6 Essex engine, designed in England. The Essex V4 was also 60 degree and had a balance shaft but the 1700 was 1663cc whereas the Taunus V4 was 1699cc.

[@autka_me]

Yes. A bit weird decision to be honest, to make two almost identical engines.

[@patrickcannell2258]

The Taunus engine was made in Germany as this one is had a proper rocker shaft. The distributor was at the back. The British Essex engines had the distributor at the front. The German engine was better.

[@Valko67]

yes you rught ;-) @@patrickcannell2258

[@VictoriasPassions]

Great job!

[@markettatony]

nice this saab live long time now🙂

[@autka_me]

Thanks

[@rdcruiser4396]

Que hermoso sonido de los motores en "V".

[@peterdebacker888]

Parts were cleaned with ultrasonic cleaning ? seems quite large ... what volume ? 6 L ?

[@autka_me]

15L, that's what box says, but usable volume is around 10 - 11.

[@myyracommunity4932]

runs like a 96 should run

[@autka_me]

It has made a bit over 1000 kilometers since that video, no problems, no leaks etc. I've changed carburettor from Solex to Weber 32/36 DGAV and K&N air filter.

[@myyracommunity4932]

@@autka_me they have so much torque and the valve cover gaskets always leak

[@Valko67]

you change to electronic ignition to ? because this improve a lot also with a more powerful Coil @@autka_me

[@messenger6279]

Nice

[@autka_me]

Thanks

[@mattblack156]

Nice job, did you use any uprated components on the rebuild?

[@autka_me]

Thank you! Oil pump is from V6, it has bigger volume and slightly bigger pressure (and it's cheaper than the one for V4). Later on the Solex carb that was originally on it, has been replaced with Weber DGAV with K&N square filter box. That's about it. Oh yes and con rod bolts I've replaced with ARP 289-302 Ford V8 (that required some reaming as they are not the exact size - original were metric and I couldn't find them anywhere).

[@x13-t7o]

10:45 !!! yes!

[@1701Q]

Sounds amazing, like half of a v8 haha

[@autka_me]

It does, doesn't it? With whole exhaust it's more civilised, but still sounds great. Better exhaust btw is on my TODO list.

[@Valko67]

yes 👌thats like she sounds really , half a V8 , i like it also ;-)

[@felixtello6978]

El metal del eje compensador posterior me parece está mal colocado

[@autka_me]

¿cuál? ¿Puedes publicar la hora en el video?

[@felixtello6978]

@@autka_me la ranura de lubricación es para atrás

[@autka_me]

@@felixtello6978 6:57 right? That should be like this, opposite side is closed with balance shaft cover so the oil would have no place to go. On the opposite side it has to go outwards so it will oil the gears.

[@felixtello6978]

En la parte posterior el eje tiene el tope de fricción entonces ahí lubrica mi estimado te mando fotos desde Perú te escribo saludos.

[@juhaniskanen1052]

Ford v4,no saab.

[@myyracommunity4932]

miksei ole

[@juhaniskanen1052]

@@myyracommunity4932 Saabia vain kori+vaiihteisto.

[@myyracommunity4932]

@@juhaniskanen1052 suurin osa kunnon saabeista on v4 koneella koska siinä on vääntöä ja on luotettava

[@juhaniskanen1052]

@@myyracommunity4932 Ongelma fordin v4 on tasapainoakseli muuten kone ok,ilmenee n.80 th. ajetussa.

[@myyracommunity4932]

@@juhaniskanen1052 mun taunuksesta se tasapaino on kadonnu ajat sitte jäykemmät kannatin kumit vaan ni ei hötky se kone