1991 Firebird Engine Temperature Gauge, Thermostat, Rad Hoses (Ep.10)

[@michaelw6277]

Damn man, you’re about as smart as my wife thinks I am when it comes to cars. Your understanding of how auto electronics function most likely surpasses the average mechanic and creeps right up into things an engineer should know.

[@9393jack]

I love this channel. Most of the projects are "we cheaply fixed up this car for cheap for a lot of money"

[@ms1595]

Never seen somebody making such a big deal out of a temperature sensor. At my workshop those go out and in without much testing if the gauge acts up. But the series about the Firebird is great. Keep the videos coming. I am a big fan

[@jputtrexx]

Woo hoo I saw my name! Any time you want help I'm here. One day I'll take the drive down to you, get our Birds together.

[@Tech_481]

John Puttre nice

[@gavinwitman3097]

Just two guys with their birds out

[@jonasthemovie]

There are some youtubers I watch every second of their videos. There are channels where I skip forward alot. Please never change. I enjoy these videos just like they are, every second is watched.

[@FullForceDrummer]

Hey, nice Video :D A Tip: You can also fill the cooling system up with a citric acid/water solution, open the heater temperature knob to the max and then let the engine run, until it is at operation temperature and a little longer. Maybe let it rev a little bit higher so that the coolant really gets to flow. The citric acid will loose all the rust and chalk. Do this 2-3 times, then flush the whole system with water. Make sure to get out all the citric acid. Then refill the system. You could also just remove the thermostate and run the engine on the citric acid without it, so that the whole system will be flushed immediately. The method with the garden hose works fine. I am doing it like that to remove the citric acid after flushing: Engine is off, putting the hose in the thermostat housing and let it drain out of the lower coolant hose on the radiator. Then put the garden hose in the top radiator hose and flush out the radiator from the bottom radiator hose. It is incredible, what kind of gunk is coming out of the radiator. I am doing this every 3 years to my 1990 W124 Mercedes and it works really good :) Might be a good shot, since the coolant looks really rusty. Greetings from a German Fan!

[@thelocalneatist]

Measuring the resistance of the sneeze made me laugh so hard dude, so glad i found this series

[@dexstex]

4:52 For the who are curious about VDC,AAC,VAC... VDC was DC Volt ACC was AC Amps VAC was AC Volt

[@MidnightMechanic]

Having the serpentine belt routed wrong is actually a bigger deal that what people like to let on. It can actually make accessories run BACKWARDS to what they're supposed to run, which can destroy pumps very easily!

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

That's a good point! That wasn't the case here, but it certainly can cause issues. It's usually easy to tell which pulleys ride on the smooth side of the belt and which ride on the ribbed side at a glance, so even without a diagram you can get the belt installed close enough to correct that it wouldn't really do damage in the short term.

[@calebbrown8365]

I've never known all that much about cars but the way your videos are layed out, how much detailing there is, and especially all the visuals make this for a great blind learning experience. The occasional humor is always a plus. I look forward to future uploads.

[@cambo1200]

I would like to see you do an engine bay detail.

[@TheBrokenLife]

I'm personally hoping that will be part of the LS swap...

[@JohnBarrow1961]

That's never going to happen.

[@drewarthur2169]

cambo1200 yeah me too, I was wondering if it was bothering anyone else

[@scottb_02]

Detailing brushes work well to get into crevasses not accessible with a mit

[@1337penguinman]

This episode is a perfect demonstration of why mechanics love high tooth count ratchets. And flex heads.

[@Renamawn]

New episode! Its gonna be a good day. Love these

[@fredharris7506]

Have 2 birds now rebuilding both 91`s

[@xX2fast4uXx1982]

A tip i've found with time, when I know I'm replacing a hose, I just slice it up with a box cutter. So I dont have to do all that prying and pulling and such

[@12mchauvin12]

Cut a small slit in lower hose jam a 3/8 brake line in the slit and route to the drain pan. Once drained slice and dice like he said.

[@Codethe_Road]

Your editing and narration is getting so much better with each video--- I can't wait for more Jeep, and Datsun and-- well, everything you do is enjoyable to watch.

[@beaglebill8544]

agreeded also, the time it takes to write scripts must take alot of time.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

No scripts! I just go back through the footage and say what comes to mind (ramble), this particular episode took around four hours to record the voiceover for.

[@nico.c97]

My grandpa had a little trick for stuck rad hoses, just smear some soap from a bar of soap (duh) and wedge it around the metal fitting, pushing the soap pieces down, then its just twist and pull

[@TheBrokenLife]

I finally just bought a nice set of hose removal pics. That's far and away the best way to go.

[@Guitarhero1000]

I use channel locks on the wide setting. Works every time

[@andrewparisotto2631]

Its about time for another one of these videos about the firebird ive been waiting on it forever

[@zackeatsbutteryt8856]

Same

[@edumaker-alexgibson]

Another fantastic video, I especially appreciate your focus on all the tools you're using, and that 80% of the effort is gettign the right parts and getting the old parts loose without breaking things - which makes it so much more credible that I can follow along and replicate what you did. Don't change a thing! I have had a lot of similar experiences with temperature senders (Thermistors) in a completely different context - 3D printers. I loved your more data-driven approach to testing the output and calibrating the gauge input. Dragging my own 91 Firebird into the 21st century, I'm building a DIY body control module, and you've inspired me to go a bit further with it and intercept the analogue signals from the senders, digitise these within the body control module, and then from this, drive the original analogue dials. Each will have its own calibration map. For un-necessary levels of accuracy I can stick the new sensor in a calibrated lab water bath at a university, and check at known temps. A question: Is it possible that GM's engineers are allowing for the temperature to be different in parts of the engine away from the sender location, and deliberately skewing the reading that shows on the dial? Or is it just plain wrong?

[@rustyjunkgarage1418]

I wouldn't worry about that gauge too much. Many factory gauges are just basically "idot lights" with a pointer attached. They are designed to read in a "nice" spot, like straight up when at normal operating temperature. Many older GM vehicles even have a resistor in the oil pressure gauge circuit, just to give it that "normal" reading most of the time. Check out your Silverado, get it to operating temp, the gauge will read straight up. Compare the reading of the gauge with that of a scan tool, you will see they don't match lol. Another factor that affects the gauge is the location of the temp sensor, In my old LT1 Caprice, the computer reads the coolant temp from the water pump, and the temp sensor for the gauge is in the cylinder head. LT1 is reverse cooling so the heads get cooled first, and therefore the gauge always reads a bit colder then actual operating temperature. You "may" be getting a slightly higher reading due to the location of the sensor in the cylinder head. There are 3 wire coolant temp sensors out there that will allow you to run the computer and gauge off 1 temp sensor, sometimes giving you a more accurate reading.

[@arturopacheco89]

I believe those engines where designed to run hot. The stock fan kicks on at 240.

[@thedude420h20]

Arturo Pacheco I had an L04 in my 91 bird. 225-230 at most. 240 would read kinda scary lol.

[@arturopacheco89]

@@thedude420h20 lol. My bird was just overheating. The stupid ignition turn on I use for the cooling fans crapped out. I jury rigged them to the battery and got the temp back down to like 180 lol. I got a 3 core radiator with dual fans from eBay for like $90.

[@birdbrainxzx]

That sounds about right. I have a 91 Camaro with the 3.1 V6 in it and the fans don't kick on til about 3/4 of the gauge which i believe is around 235-240 then goes down to 220 (mid way).

[@LLCooLM595]

I have a 92 bird, It stays at a little below 220, but its also got the V6 so they may not run as hot

[@scottb_02]

My stock 64k ‘89 TA 305 TPI fan kicks on around 240, I don’t like it, putting in a new sensor that’ll turn it on at 185.

[@nestam6844]

For some reason I only get recommended the firebird videos while I would love to watch everything when it comes out.

[@russkester7006]

That's got to be the rustiest spark plug I've ever seen, good luck changing them.

[@tommyboulet]

i'm always happy to sit down in front of the computer and realize you have uploaded a new car/truck video. Man your humor cracks me up!

[@gosportjamie]

Your issue with the over-reading temperature gauge could simply be down to the time the car sat for, the gauges are electro-mechanical and, like any mechanical part, they can get a bit stiff if they haven't operated for a while. Run the vehicle up to temperature regularly for a while and it might get a bit more accurate. It could also be that the gauge is designed to over-read slightly to give an attentive motorist time to stop before causing engine damage to an overheating engine...

[@dennisp.2147]

I would have gone ahead and replaced the radiator while you were there. I understand this is a budget series, but a 2 row replacement for a 91 Pontiac Firebird with AC and TBI is about 80 bucks at most auto parts stores. Or, you can get an all aluminum one for about $150 and not have to worry about 30 year old plastic tanks cracking.

[@PhOeNiXpIoLe]

Must of heard me thinking about this car series, awesome!!!

[@sergiobisonte]

open the gage , remove the needle, let the car go to operating temperature, mesure temperature, and carefully put the nedle on the corect temperature

[@danielfisch655]

Great video, thanks for sharing.

[@ww21943]

This series reminds me why I hated my 1987 LG4 Camaro so much (bought it in 2002). It never ran right and it was one of the hardest cars to work on. My 1989 Ford Crown Vic 5.0 was so nice to work on. Everything was so much more accessible.

[@hiiambarney4489]

Ahhh... Good ol Victoria. Lived to drive and loved to serve, never let you down.

[@Guitarhero1000]

Of you think that's bad. Try working on a 4th gen fbody

[@meh431]

Nice video as always man 👍

[@Rose.Of.Hizaki]

oof. all that rust and corrosion on the engine :(

[@gosportjamie]

That's all pretty standard in areas where things go rusty. Engine paint, even high temperature stuff, tends not to survive the high temperatures and inhospitable environment under the bonnet/hood for very long. It can actually be more desirable to have a coating of surface rust on the parts as some of the metal alloys used commonly on car engines have a property where the oxide (corrosion) is inert and won't allow corrosion to spread...

[@dannycoultas265]

Check the spark plug at about 20:02 kerrrusty

[@theanarchist2746]

It doesn't affect the state of the engine too much, in case you buy a car that looks similar to this one (speaking about the engine), you should know what to do. Things like new spark plugs, oil and cooling liquid are basic standard things you should always replace or refill.

[@gosportjamie]

A good tip if you're using taps to chase dirty threads is to put grease in the flutes on the tap so it'll collect the muck the tap removes rather than allowing it to drop into the bottom of the hole and maybe get stuck there, preventing the bolt from tightening down...

[@SchwachsinnProduzent]

So if the reading is always a bit too high, wouldn't a resistor in series bring it down to the correct value?

[@stephenhegarty]

20:00 - dude, those plugs are looking nasty 😕

[@Jarrettsjams]

Amazing!!! This video series made me want a Firebird so bad! 91's are some of the most beautiful cars I've seen. Although I couldn't get a 91, I was able to snag a really nice black 2002 Firebird! Before this videos I didn't even know what a Firebird was! And now I'm in love with my car

[@reno5460]

Why not adjust the peg on the gauge to compensate for the 15°F extra?

[@daveysham8413]

Didn't know you were from maryland until I started binge watching your videos! I'm like 25 minutes north of Bmore!

[@jeepindave5464]

I say the reason your test resistance in the circuit is less than the service manual is due to the deterioration of the circuit itself. All those corroded wires and connections add a little by little. Thats why you needed a low ohm sensor.

[@RetroPCUser]

Thought I broke a temperature sensor on my car when it overheated, but the engine didn't blow up as it has an overtemperature sensor on there that shuts off fuel injectors for certain areas of the engine (rear of the engine as my friend crimped the heater core outlet hose). Fixed my cooling system and no overheating or leaking coolant. Radiator and the rest of the major hoses are intact and no cracks, splits, or holes as I got the cooling system flushed on the car, no head gasket or intake gasket leaks either and the engine runs perfectly fine.

[@Jaqen-HGhar]

It looks like they had used Bar's Leak to try and top a leak in the coolant system. That's why it's all brown and nasty, at least that's exactly how my radiator looked after using it when I was too young and naive to realize that stuff isn't good for your coolant or engine.

[@zephyerus]

god i love this project, i want to buy a 91 pontiac firebird myself. i thought they were so nice.

[@mrmrskeiper6857]

I enjoy seeing your videos! I just started on my firebird and filming it! Good luck with yours!

[@joelpalmer]

we used to flush cooling system with a T connector on a heater hose. Run engine connect a garden hose and open the petcock clean water in. old dirty stuff is flushed out.

[@Guitarhero1000]

Yep. I've modified my s10 heater hose that way. Just put a rubber cap on it to plug it for when I need it next time I flush

[@TFD1982]

Yay new episode great keeping up with maintenance

[@DJFTLM]

invest in them long snap on picks made for breaking free those radiator hoses. Worth every penny IMO

[@donnie7578]

It don't matter where we go next...looking forward to it. =)

[@brandonhalmrast]

Im all for long winded episodes!

[@oikkuoek]

The wire from the bung to the gauge has a resist. Probably just enough to make that few degree difference. No need to pull out he bung, or the gauge itself, just replace the wire.

[@sisforscrap7647]

YES! I love this series.

[@Creeepz-ii7fk]

I just found you now and the best thing about this channel(after the cars i fap to of course) is your humor where you "criticise" yourself for everything. Thats just super entertaining. Keep on making these videos!!

[@bigsparky8888]

Heater and coolant hoses are best replaced with the green stripe hoses(or...go to Ace hdwr and get water hose that is RED...LASTS FOREVER!!! GOOD LUCK BROTHER!!!

[@jhuds88]

Try using a rad hose from a 91 chevy s-10 with the 4.3 it may fit better since it looks identical to your setup.

[@andljoy]

Cap tip, put a rubber glove over the hole and then put the cap on ! Gets it super tight then.

[@th3thin9]

You can calibrate the sender/gauge for the temperature with resistors, by connecting them in series or in parallel. Depends on the gauge and the sender, so I can't really tell you for sure what resistor you need and how you need to connect it.

[@micheljauvin3536]

excellent series

[@classic287]

Your videos are great. Shows problems that one will run into. Wonder 🤔 where my Firebird is now...

[@lew-e]

You terrify me cleaning those threads out with a power drill!

[@tedkoppel4199]

If the twist wiggle and pull method doesn't work just stick a screwdriver in it. Okay, got it.

[@ronskopitz2360]

FWIW... my ‘88 S10 Blazer 2.8 V6 had the same ridiculous (stock) petcock as your Firebird. Your S-10 Blazer with the convenient drain tube appears to have been an aftermarket replacement...

[@davidkaehele8910]

NPT taps are tapered, you do not thread them in all the way because it gets rid of the taper ( only far enough to thread the fitting in 3 or four turns before it tightens down). When you do this the fitting threads all they way down instead of getting tight and sealing at the taper (look how far down the old fitting went -half way- compared to all the way down after you taped it). Good thing you have the experience to know when to stop tightening the fitting down. What you felt was the threads starting to strip, not the brass fitting.

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

I ran the tap into the cylinder head by hand, not even a t-handle, the only material removed was the old sealant/rust. I did not move the taper. The threads may have been a little thinner from the cooling system corrosion, but I have some experience with cheap brass fittings and too much tightening torque (cough cough) and I am quite certain that was what was starting to give

[@Riffcat]

awesome series keep up the good work

[@dg98adams]

When you are replacing the lower hose I just cut a slit in the best spot to drain from..... to keep the mess in the drain pan.

[@TheBrokenLife]

It's a valid strategy, but unless you're 100% positive you've got the right replacement hose, it's risky.

[@jonasthemovie]

This video shows why you might wanna keep the old parts.

[@ChrisLincolnHomes]

Ad a JET Fan Sensor from Jegs. It will turn the fan on at 200 and off at 185. Best thing I ever did 22yrs ago on my 88 Formula 350

[@poyakiani7883]

Using a resistor to correct the reading can be a temporary solution (or even permanent if you solder it well enough).

[@scubasteve31583]

Love the videos! Keep up the great work!!!

[@JamieBainbridge]

I get so nervous every time I see someone use a tap with a drill. I always do them by hand out of fear of crossthreading. You can also make a thread chaser with a bolt, just cut a slot in it. The goop collects in the slot.

[@franganghi]

add a resistance in series. you can tune your sensor. make sure to use one with a low tolerance.

[@overthemountain16]

I have a 1989 Camaro RS with a 5.0L. After we rebuilt the engine we have a similar issue with the temp gauge. Our mechanic wa even puzzled because according to temperature probes and scanners. The engine is running at the correct temperature but the gauge was telling me the car was in the red and overheating. Pretty much its reading a quarter higher than it is. We speculate that there may be more to the original temp sender that is OE could be different from aftermarket. He suggested installing an aftermarket digital gauge with it's own sender threaded onto the thermostat housing if it has extra ports.

[@joelpalmer]

Another great video!

[@mrmegatron1101]

I've had a 3rd gen before and that ticking that I heard at the end of the video when the car was idling was something mine did too. I thought it was a sticky lifter (and yours still could be) but what it was for me was a very small hole on the driver side exhaust manifold. Dont think it will damage anything but I found it annoying.

[@mr.randomreviewguy5249]

From my experience all the third gens read really high

[@FixthisCD]

Just find a smaller resistance pot and put in line with your cars wiring til you get an accurate reading on the dash that matches your infrared thermometer. measure that resistance on the pot and get a resistor to wire in line.

[@tcar]

You should check the coolant meter. Usually the instrumental has a resistor in it to adjust the meter to the correct value. For example my R19 rev up until 4k rpm with the original tachometer but using another tacho goes over 6k. The potentiometer of calibration is really weak and need to be replaced because get rust after some time. If you can't do this, you can also solder a resistor in serie to the sensor to adjust the signal.

[@biothekitten1539]

Where was the video about the coolant fan not spinning? Did it not come out yet or did I miss it? Would be good to find out how you did it since my 3rd gen has the same issue

[@donaldlong9649]

another episode awesome

[@Sugurain]

I'd guess the old wiring to the cluster gained resistence with the years, messing with the reading. I'd try replacing that wire for a new one, and if that fails, I'd try to open the cluster and re position the needle to the correct position.

[@ACEMIDNIGHT102]

Good job, keep it up!

[@milfordcivic6755]

To save yourself 10 minutes, cut the hose lengthwise to remove from the water pump. That will release it without having to fight with a screwdriver.

[@JonTostanoski]

Wow finally an update. I thought you were M.I.A

[@allenmckinney9533]

Look into a upper rad hose for an s10 that curves around behind the alternator.

[@adriangarza4291]

A quick question why not change out the spark plugs? Because in the video they look all rusty and probably help the car run just a little bit better

[@edwardautrey3671]

Adrian Garza he better spray the plugs with PB blaster first they look awful

[@jacksmith3189]

Springs ? Where do you purchase springs for the lower radiator hose ? Thanks

[@clarkclifford2338]

You should check total circuit resistance when you have ect problems like this.

[@ColdStartAuto]

So if you wanna a real funky engine flush, add plain water and some dishwasher detergent. Run it up to op temp then drain you'll get SO much gunk

[@FFG2451]

We waiting bro good job

[@howardrice9527]

Nice job!!!

[@dub944]

Good luck getting those spark plugs off😬

[@FuzzyDiceProjects]

That will be in a future episode, there are a few stills in this one that were from later on and actually show new spark plugs. It wasn't easy to get to them all, but no issues getting any of them loose. The threads were all fine, just external rust and not enough that they fell apart.

[@jaredanthony6374]

I badly need Episode 11

[@wesleypipelayer7627]

i wonder if the sending unit is fine, but there's something up with the temperature gauge. I remember dealing with some car when i was a teen, that had an adjustable temp gauge in the cluster. Turn one of the screws on the front of the gauge, would adjust the precision of the needle.

[@dragonrider9051]

Cut a hole in the old lower radiator hose, let drain then remove for a cleaner process.

[@ytmrhandy]

I would replace the temp sender that reports to the computer in the vehicle next. "Typically" those are what sends the OK signal to power on your electric fans, and from the look of it in the shots @ the amount of corrosion on it, I'd wager thats your problem for not getting the fans to boot up. Turning on the air con hardlines power to the fan circuit as a backup in case the primary circuit fails (like it has in your case).

[@toddsmith8127]

Please do a revisit of this project at a later time to see if you can find the actual issue. I have the exact same problem with my 92 Firebird. Same 305 TBI same exact everything. I replaced the thermostat, Temp sensor and fan relays I still have the exact same issue as this video. Also, love the 91 Firebird video series a lot is transferable to my 92.

[@dr.curious5136]

That was a long way to say , “ I changed the temp gauge sending unit “

[@ragnardanneskjold7675]

Canadian Pride I was thinking the same thing. I’d hate to see how much he could complicate pouring a glass of milk.

[@ronsteelable9405]

I've been fighting the same issue with the GM 2.8L 60 deg V6 in my Isuzu Trooper. Originally no reading on the temp gauge, swapped senders and now it reads about 10-15 deg hotter than what the ALDL reading is. I've given up at this point.

[@holywobbles8703]

Please post more of the Firebird!

[@combatveteran240]

So to bleed, all you need to do is fill up coolant in radiator and have the cap off the coolant reservoir?

[@DillonGaming036]

Stick a resistor on it to get it correct

[@claypaul2012]

Cooling fan relay bad?

[@brentconley8902]

Still waiting for you to paint that Air cleaner housing lol

[@Shakira_6.0]

PLEASE put new plugs in that thing. The faint ticking you are hearing could be, "spark knock," as people often mistake lifter tick for. I can maintenance GM motors like it's my job and trust me, them plugs have had enough