1992 honda civic, intermittent crank no start, parts cannon

[@cede3946]

Have a 1997 Honda civicHX (different lol ) got it for 300 crank no start with 264k miles little old lady just got to old To drive it and sold it to me ! same issues went to junkyard after replacing the fuel pump tune up oil change so I started googling no prime from the fuel pump instead of just crank no start and I came across 3 videos pointing the ecu! Got it two weeks ago and after watching your video and 3 others I ended up a junkyard got one from a sedan 1.6 5 speed! I said If I plug it up then it primes we got ourselves a car ! THAT THING PRIMED UP AND STARTED ! Thanks so much and it’s exempt antique tag here I come lol

[@partsshooter]

@@cede3946 good deal!

[@voteholyk]

This just happened to my 93 del sol. Everything is working just fine from FP to Fuel relay and Distributer. Thanks. Now I will check the C17 and 16 pins.

[@zaidalbalushi7184]

I have nearly same issue in my Honda civic 93 eg

[@jianmanalansan9829]

Where are you located at

[@Killmode29]

Good fine man! Great job.

[@zaidalbalushi7184]

I have nearly same issue in my Honda civic 93 eg no pulse in the injectors unknown spark in the distributor can somebody help me what is the solution I change the distributor but still same issue 😢😢

[@voteholyk]

Me too 93 del sol, get a new ecu.

[@jeromemuller962]

Just being observant , finding capacitors that have gone potty on the computer board. If you know how to perform electronic unsoldering of failed components, and the replacing them with equal or better . Then cleaning the board to prevent the shorting out issue

[@partsshooter]

You're correct... and it's cheaper. However, not worth validating the pride. These are like $300 remanufactured with limited lifetime warranty typically.

[@jeromemuller962]

He doing it free of charge for the bragging rights, found the issue by being very observant, what the cost of that cap, maybe 0.50 to 0.90, auto mechanics typically don't have the knowledge of electronics and the the component to replace them. Not a slam against any one, but you do need to know what you are doing when working on electronics. As for me, Jack of all trades master of none, started my working on electronics in highschool and now retired.

[@partsshooter]

@jeromemuller962 I'm not to boast... I do understand you in regards to self replacing those. They are cheap, however from the buisness aspect of things, the risk vs reward isn't something to play with when it come to long term. If this was my car, probably I'd replace. But at 37, I don't wanna go through it again, I make mistakes, and with the clientele I have, my human error puts me behind. To add, they bring me buisness and reputation is key. In regards to ecm, the factory I or they would be purchasing from have better quality control measures than I. I'll just swallow my pride in that field and accept being correct in the assessment.

[@jeromemuller962]

​@@partsshooter yes I can understand your point that it would be risky to do a electronic repair when it's a clients vehicle when it not your normal line of work and may not trust yourself vs a remand unit. That make a lot of sense. For me, I work on my own vehicles as a hobby and I'm a cheapskate and have a electronics background. I have had some work done in the past for vehicles worked by auto shops and didn't like the results. You are correct, reputation is very important, the bums give a bad taste, and it's very difficult to sort out the bad from the good. When I had a issue with one of vehicles, I would use information found on the internet as a starting point, my scan tool for fault codes ECT. I work on a older. Ford Taurus with a crank no start, found one of first second PATS moduak

[@jeromemuller962]

Sorry my hand slipped and jump and posted when I wasn't finished my thoughts. As I was working on a fords 1st or 2nd version PATS module. It would crank and no start, but it also was intermittent and run. Also it would be very touchy where it start, then later wouldn't start. I pulled the module and opened it, inspected it very closely and found a Ford factory defect. The car was already twenty plus years old and the defect was that the connector had not been solder correctly. The wave soldering machine at the factory left three or four pins that had no solder. Pulled out my iron and solder re-soldered all of them, put the case back together and installed back in the car. No more intermittent failure to start.

[@jakebo240]

Great video !

[@buhayprobinsya-4831]

Good job

[@michaelkahn4983]

main relay

[@hhn2002]

Subscribed, good stuff 🫡

[@Bert945]

hello idol