1994-1997 Ford 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Removal Overview

1994-1997 Ford 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo removal general overview. Update: 8,000 miles later and no oil leaks, truck is less smoky in stock tune with bellowed up pipes.

[@ceetwarrior]

Man those seats look nice

[@chrisdavis566]

Thanks for the tips. especially the rubber band trick!

[@lasonconrad8442]

great video man this helped me out alot

[@Kleiminc]

Awesome video Thank you a million!!!

[@oskarbud525]

I've pulled the turbo a few times on the same truck for various reasons and it is indeed a bastard.

[@johniii8400]

Good video. Just a suggestion to slow down movement of camera as it is easy to get lost. Thanks

[@myfault05]

I watched your video just this evening. Thanks very much for showing the tools that you used. I'm going to get me some swivel sockets asap. I'm replacing the stock 1.15 A/R turbo housing with a 1.00 A/R housing, using a Wicked Wheel and keeping the EBPV. Stupid question here, how does the EBPV rod disconnect from the butterfly valve arm? I've not done any of this before. Should the EBPV be rebuilt or replaced while I'm in here?

[@dieselwelding431]

I’m glad that the video helped. That sounds like a good combination, I myself have been thinking about going to a 1.00 A/R housing (especially since I 3.55 swapped it recently). The ebpv connects to the ebpv butterfly valve by a ball and socket type connection. You just have to slide the collar back and it pops right off, it is pretty simple. I ended up just replacing the pedestal which had a new ebpv, but a rebuild could also work too it depends on your budget. I would say the new pedestal might be a little safer bet against oil leaks. Even though I kept the ebpv, I actually have a had it unplugged the last few years, with no negative effects. I just drive it easy until it is warm.

[@GnosticNinja]

Heat moto up good *then* PB juice. Heat draws it into threads much better.

[@localeightironworker]

gonna be doing this job soon on my 97 f250. i got a kc turbos "stock plus" and deleted EBPV pedestal, was debating about getting a set of up-pipes and a new collector, but the turbo swap looked hard enough without pulling the cab. i'm wondering now if i should just pull the cab anyway and get the bellowed up-pipes and turbo in one shot..

[@dieselwelding431]

I bet the KC Turbo and deleted EBPV pedestal will work very nicely for you. It's not the worst job, you have to have patience with it. If you really wanted to pull the cab go for it, but honestly the bolts are not the worst to get to (if you have the right tools). The worst part for me was getting the flange on that up pipe to clear but honestly it wasn't too difficult. These trucks tend to have different cab clearances from the engine depending on where the engine sits on its motor mounts so it depends on the vehicle.

[@K.E.B.N.Y.C.]

Working on this job right now for a client, This turbo has been a pain! How long would you say it took you in total?

[@dieselwelding431]

Oh yeah it can be not so fun sometimes. I would say it took me 10 hours in total, I spent a lot of time trying to get the new up pipe in for the driver side which I ended up having to take out the transmission crossmember and lowering that trans down slightly. Most people typically do this when the transmission is already out of the vehicle, however I found that you can do it with it in, just a little more time to do it.

[@K.E.B.N.Y.C.]

So the customer wanted me to do the turbo only. 6 hrs is a good quote for that you would say? Mind you, we’re in Alaska. Everything is original… 😢 Thanks for prompt response. I couldn’t have removed it without you showing exact thing to do btw. Saved me more time than I already wasted.

[@dieselwelding431]

That does sound like a good quote to me. Mine was all original too, but in all honesty it wasn’t too bad doing that job. Of course I’m glad to have a helpful video.

[@huskerbeaver]

Do you think you would have had to take the transmission crossmember off if you did the portapower cab work first?

[@dieselwelding431]

You might be able to get away with just using the portapower, however taking out the transmission crossmember and dropping the transmission down allowed a lot more clearance between the motor and the firewall. I would say if you didn’t drop the cross member, you would have to bend and “massage” the firewall more then dropping lowering the transmission down and only having to bend it a little.

[@GaeLordPhockHer]

so say the bottom driver side nut on the flange gets stripped. would it be possible to torch the nut off? I got a 96 7.3 and its got a bad leak on the turbo housing and bent fans from a previous owner. Its stripped but I've seen in some forums that people take torches to em. I've got the ebpv delete billet turbo, bellowed up pipes. the pipes are fine coming off im just stuck there. I'm usually pretty good at changing parts but I've never had to torch just yet.

[@GaeLordPhockHer]

i also appreciate any response given!

[@dieselwelding431]

Hey there, that doesn’t sound like a fun situation. If the nut is just stripped out on the head, maybe try using a bolt extractor to bite into it and get it out. Getting a torch in there in my opinion is difficult. Not to mention potential damage to the aluminum pedestal the turbo sits on. If you are able to get to the up-pipe bolts that bolt up into the collector and get them out, then you could potentially take out the turbo with the collector still attached to it. Best of luck with that!