1996 Volvo 850: Reading and clearing ECC codes without a scan tool

[@morganstuartmcrae]

Beautiful. I built one from your layout into an obdii cable connector I bought off ebay. Works great. Fixed my issue. Probably would have cost me hundreds and multiple trips at a Volvo dealer. Thanks again.

[@1972TRIUMPHSTAGK]

I just made this reset tool today, it works a treat. Thanks so much from England.

[@katherder4450]

Thanks for this post and the links, I bought my 850 GLT less than a year ago and it's in good shape considering its age but it has some issues and one is with the ECC and this will help. I watched another where you cleaned the temperature sensors, as well so next time I go by Radio Shack I will buy parts to make the scanner tool. Great help.

[@DopeFiend]

You should sell these commercially, looks really well made.

[@RobertDIY]

Can you use that tool to read engine error codes, like emissions?

[@AKJeeper]

Yes. To read "check engine" codes, all you would have to do is switch one pin. Move the pin from Pin 6 (ECC) to Pin 3 (ECU - Motronic 4.3 only....I haven't heard of this working on Motronic 4.4). From there, reading the codes is done in the same manner as the '93-'95 cars. You can also read cruise control codes, by using Pin 13.

[@marcusholm256]

Thanks for your help! Now I have my home made blink code reader. 😊🎉

[@ckinc89]

Credit to this video and whom behind... Such A valueable one. Thanx to you...😔

[@retromotorspares8963]

Thanks for the video! I've made the reader and connected to the obd2 like you have done. The led comes on but it stays on when I turn the ignition on? pressing the button does nothing. Any idea? Thank you!

[@frankswagon]

Thank You ,AKJeeper,this was very helpful!

[@AKJeeper]

Glad to help! Thanks for stopping by!

[@v8pilot]

Thank you for this. (1998 V90 owner)

[@gissavad1067]

Thanks for this video. Will the pin be the same for a fenix 5.2 system. Have an 850 -97 (b5252s)

[@DopeFiend]

Have you tried this, did it work on your fenix?

[@DopeFiend]

Can this thing read ABS codes aswell?

[@Barriermichel]

Hello, what are the codes to read on a volvo 850 TDI D5252T Fenix or Metronic engine? thank you

[@PlectrumZProduction]

Mine only has heat at the full push to the right and nothing in between, any suggestions?

[@chrissmith3505]

can you do the service light this way

[@ricardoramirez2432]

gracias por el video me ayuda a resolver el problema de ecc de mi volvo 850 t5 96

[@Meox_YT]

I watched this video and decided to try it, it worked like a charm. I got the error code 4-4-2, what does it mean? And my lambdon light turned off after clearing the codes but after a minute or two the lambdon light turn back on and the error code 4-4-2 reappears, any idea what i could do? Also do you know how to turn of the service lamp? Many thanks, marcus

[@chaseblum2702]

If i wanted to switch my ECU from a motronic 4.3 to a 4.4 would this tool help with the ECC problems with that conversion? 1996 850 tubo

[@JUKE179r]

Smart. Very smart!

[@domagojgotic4421]

excellent, thanks for the info

[@cornedinslage6985]

Have you allready found a less expensive tool to reset the servicelight on a volvo 850 model 1996? Cant find a garage here to fix it!

[@poopvalve]

This is brilliant! Do you know the other system pins? Brake control module would be handy for ABS probs etc. Excellent vid!

[@redbeak1453]

You explained everything so well and yet my tool doesn't work. My LED goes on when I plug in, but it doesn't go out when I turn on the ignition. I assume the momentary switch doesn't have polarity. The LED I'm using has a red positive and negative wire. My OBD2 scanner works when I plug into the port as it should. I have a 96 Volvo 850T5. I double checked the way I wired it and it seems OK. The only time the light goes out is when I push the button. Also, when I have the positive lead in port #16 and I touch any of the other 2 leads to the cigarette lighter metal... the light goes on. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. What did I screw up?? :-))

[@AKJeeper]

Was the LED you used a 12v LED? If it was your typical 2v or 5v LED, you might want to add a resistor (700 ohm to 1500 ohm should work) between the positive lead of your LED and pin 16 of the OBDII port. Hope this helps!

[@StevesGarage]

Do you know if this would work on a 2000 V70? I have the newer type of ECC and I'm getting the blinking lights on start-up indicating a fault. My AC button is always on if the fan is on, which means the AC compressor always runs. I had to pull the relay for the compressor so it wouldn't click on, but I'd like to be able to read the fault code it's throwing.

[@AKJeeper]

No, the ECC system on the S70, C70, and V70 cars that came after the 850 series is a different beast. On those cars, you will need a scan tool capable of communicating with the ECC module to get the codes out of it.

[@StevesGarage]

@@AKJeeper Yea that's what I thought... I did get my car scanned to figure out what was wrong, but it hasn't solved my heat problem yet. Back to the drawing board!

[@CraftAndu]

Hmm. I followed your instructions but it does not seem to work. I have a 1995 850, 2.0L, 93Kw. When I plug in the wires the LED does not turn on. It turns on only when I push the button - same when the ignition is on. Any ideas? There also seems to a be a problem for computers reading data from obd2 port. I have had two different computers try connecting to the engine but no luck. I have managed to connect to ABS, though (one of the sensors is busted).

[@xavierfernandez2657]

Did you figure this out? Im having the same issue.

[@anthonyels4621]

Hi saw this video a few months back but at time I never had any problems until yesterday .so I made up one like yours and got the codes but now it won't clear the codes Sorry this is for the ECC codes can u please help me out

[@AKJeeper]

If the codes aren't clearing, and you're sure you're following the procedure in the video - it's a sign that the fault(s) causing the ECC to trip the code(s) have not been resolved.

[@namord1923]

thanks, helped a lot

[@rachelbaron8927]

Will any led light work?

[@september27able]

Hey i just acquired a 1997 volvo 960. I have that Progressive insurance gauge to plug into the car. Does it go into the port by the shifter?

[@AKJeeper]

Jim Bo yes. It connects to the OBD-2 port. In the case of a 97 Volvo 960, the port is located to the right of the shifter or possibly in front of the parking brake handle. You may have to remove a coin holder or dust cover (no tools necessary) to access the port.

[@rumenkostoff]

Does this work for testing other modules too?

[@wdawd9392]

This is great, thank you !. What about clearing the service light ?

[@AKJeeper]

I looked into this one, hoping that the service light could be reset using a home-made tool. It appears that the service light is reset through the high-speed data network, and you'll need a tool like this one to reset it. www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-service-reset-tool-ft-elektronik The service light just came on my '96 850 and it's annoying me. If I find a less expensive tool for it, I'll be sure to post an update. Thanks for watching!

[@wdawd9392]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@stigmichaelsomsrilundin8255]

@@AKJeeper That link is no longer avalible, do you have another link how to reset the servive light ? I have a volvo 850 GLT 1995

[@garyfoster3319]

I have a 1996 Volvo 850 2.3 T5 (manual gearbox) I bought a scanner and all I get is "link error" I'm suspecting this is how I need to obtain the fault codes? cheers.

[@AKJeeper]

My OTC Genisys scan tool (one of the main scan tools I use professionally) is unable to pull ECC codes from '95-'97 Volvo 850s (even though I'm given the option in the menu). It pulls other codes (transmission, engine) just fine, and ECC codes from V70/C70/S70 cars just fine. So yes, I'm thinking you'll need to read the ECC codes from your '96 850 using this method if your scan tool won't.

[@Inthedarkstill]

Does your kit clear abs codes on the same model?

[@xavierfernandez2657]

I tried this but it didnt work. Is it only for 96+? I have a 95

[@AKJeeper]

1995 models should have an OBD-1 port under the hood, passenger side next to the washer fluid bottle cap behind the headlight. You don't need a tool for OBD-1 cars, as it's built-in! See this video from my friend, Robert DIY. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mJfImo2una-arrssi=KcYBig8xhYbSF_D5

[@xavierfernandez2657]

@@AKJeeper this one has the OBD2 as well. So I should just use the one under the hood to read ECC codes? Whats the process to read them? TIA

[@AKJeeper]

@@xavierfernandez2657 1995 was a transition year. The OBD2 port isn’t fully-functional as they are on 1996 and 1997 cars. Check out the video I linked to earlier, Robert explains how you use the OBD1 diagnostic connector. The ECC codes are read with the jumper in the B1 port. Use the code chart (link in my video’s description) with the blink codes you get from the B1 port.

[@grzegorzbrzeczyszczykiewic1194]

Is it possible to clear service light this way? Or read the mileage?

[@AKJeeper]

No. Unfortunately you need a scan tool capable of talking to the instrument cluster through the OBD-II port to read mileage and/or clear the service light. You can read the mileage/clear service light if the car is a 1995 (has the OBD-I connectors under the hood).

[@gavinomahoney3314]

Hello, does this work on a '97 Volvo 850R? Thanks, Gavin

[@AKJeeper]

Yes, this works on 96-97 Volvo 850s.

[@germanomarriestra6440]

is this the same procedure to relearn the damper motors? thanks

[@AKJeeper]

No, this is only the procedure to read and clear codes (Test Mode 1). To relearn the damper motors, the ECC needs to be put into Test Mode 4. You can do this with the same button/LED code reader 'tool', but requires different button presses. See below. Hopefully I'll get a chance to do a video on this in the near future... Test mode 4 - Self-adjustment of damper motor limit positions Ensure that the following are set on the ECC control panel before proceeding to reset the damper motors: - Fan control in manual at about mid setting (half power) - Recirculation ON - Left-hand temperature control set to 72*F/22*C - Right-hand side temperature control set 72*F/22*C - Air control set to point between Front Panel Vents and Defroster (approx. 11:30 clock position) - A/C switch may be set either to ON/AUTO or OFF (the setting does not affect calibration) Activation - Ignition on. - Press button four times (about 1 second each time). - The LED lights up once test mode 4 is activated. The control unit can now receive a control code. Entering codes Codes must be entered one step at a time, while watching the LED. The LED will go off after each digit has been entered. it will then light up again for the next digit to be entered. Entering each digit in the code must not take more than 4 seconds. Failure to do so within four seconds means that the control unit will be unable to accept that digit. You will have to abort the input. Switch ignition off and on. Restart test mode 4. Example: to enter code 3-1-2: Unit must be in test mode 4 (LED on). Press button three times (for figure '3'). The LED will go out. Wait until it comes on again. When the LED comes on, enter the next digit. Press button once (for figure '1'). The LED will go out. Wait until it comes on again. When the LED comes on , press button twice (for figure '2') Code 3-1-2 is now entered. Exiting To exit test mode 4: Switch ignition off to abort test mode 4 once all checks have been made. Self-adjustment of damper motor limit positions You will need to make this adjustment after replacing a damper motor or switching to (testing with) a control unit which has been in use. If you take a new control unit from the dealer and use it, the control unit will adjust itself automatically while test driving the car. Enter control code 9-9-9 as shown in 'Entering codes' above. Press button nine times in quick succession. Enter this series three times, with a pause after each series of nine, waiting for the LED to come back on before making the next input. The control unit is now activated and will adjust the damper motor limit positions automatically. Test Drive Car :Drive car for a few minutes at a speed over 30 km/h (20 mph) . The control module will then carry out self-adjustment while driving. You should feel/hear this happening. If you don't, then self-adjustment isn't being carried out. Stop car but leave ignition on for at least two minutes to enable control module to store all values. Check Self-adjustment Is Complete :Ignition on. Activate Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM) as shown in video. Read off the diagnostic trouble code (DTC).If diagnostic trouble code 1-1-1 is displayed:No fault stored. Self-adjustment complete.

[@germanomarriestra6440]

Thanks man! it worked like a charm!!

[@AKJeeper]

You're very welcome. I still haven't had a chance to do a video on damper motor calibration. Did it take you very long to get your damper motors re-learned using the above procedure?

[@germanomarriestra6440]

I just had to read the error codes one by one (ecc threw 8 error codes), then pressed the switch for 5 seconds, then other 5 seconds to clear the ECC and after that the dampers automatically started to calibrate themselves in less than 10 seconds. No more blinking leds. The whole procedure was done in less than 3 minutes. My Volvo is a 1997 850 2.5 GLE 10 valve version with Fenix 5.2 ECU if that helps.. though it should be the same for all versions.

[@lvgeorge]

I have a 1995 850 with a pesky Factory Alarm problem. Alarm goes off when I try to start the car and the car will not start. I believe It started when I used the key fob to lock the doors while sitting in the car, doors closed. Since then the car will not start and alarm sounds as stated above! I just bought this used car and do not have a Code reader or Volvo knowledge. I tried closing all doors and locking/unlocking the doors from outside the car with the key and/or the key fob but the issue will not go away. I since disconnected the car horn and alarm horn to keep my sanity. Can I clear or reset the alarm or any codes to fix this problem? Is there an easy DIY Fix to this? Thanks for your Very Informative Video!

[@AKJeeper]

Look under your dash (you'll probably have to remove the lower panel - there's a few T-25 screws holding it on) and see if you have a 210/211 relay. It is a large relay, about 2x the width of a normal sized relay under there. Remove the 210/211 relay. You will need to run a jumper wire in the socket that corresponds to pins 50E and 50F on the 210 side of the double relay. You car will not start without the jumper. One not-so-nice side effect of removing the 210/211 relay (and jumping the 50E and 50F terminals): you'll lose central locking and the ability to use your remote.

[@lvgeorge]

AKJeeper, I'm Lost! I checked under the Dash, Drivers side. There is a wide black painted metal cover panel running horizontal under the steering column. I did not remove that. I looked under the dash, on the upper left side and found a Large RED Alarm Relay with the numbers, 91-28-903 - Anti-Theft-Alarm - Relay instead of the 210-211 relay you spoke of. There looked to be another relay(s) behind the 91-29-093 relay but much deeper and almost non-serviceable without removing the dashboard. I did not see the 210-211 relays. The driver's door Vin Tag 850GL shows this car was Mfg. in 02/95. What to do now? Is there still a Jumper I can apply in order to bypass the alarm allowing to start my this 1995 Volvo 850GL? Thx

[@lvgeorge]

Can't see the 210/211 relay. Would the 210/211 relay be hidden behind another Reddish-Orange relay with a number on it like 912 88 33 and called - Alarm Control unit? Are they all the same for that year (Mfg. 02/1995) Hard to work under drivers dash at my age. I can Email you to see if I am on the right track, then get a repair manual for more help. Thanks, AK.Jeeper!

[@lvgeorge]

Correction, the relay I was referring to that I found was 91 29 903 - ANTI THEFT ALARM RELAY, not 9128833. Am I close?

[@AKJeeper]

Is there any way that you could take a picture of what you're looking at, and possibly remove it and also take a picture of the terminals? Email to [e-mail] I know what you mean about this part of the dash being difficult to deal with. I suffer from vertigo at times, and there are days I can't get under the dash of these cars without getting dizzy. :(

[@jovisst]

Can't reset the codes I got just made the tool but no light after 5-7 sec push just stay black

[@jovisst]

You need to read the codes and start over and read one more to access the reset thing

[@Topsiekku]

Does this work on European models? There are differences in the readability of fault codes between the USA and European models. Easier to read usa models. Because it's easier to find a reader that works with them. I bought a volvo 850 reader which cost 120 euros and still it couldn't read engine fault codes, only Airbag and abs codes. Apparently, volvo has used such a special protocol in 1996 in the European models that it cannot be found in any general readers and not even in brand specific ones. Frustrating. But maybe this led system works.

[@supercomputerbug]

Light and switch reader worked on my Belgium made 850 with b5202s motor with ecc and fenic ECU.

[@Topsiekku]

​@@supercomputerbugYes, my car is also made in Belgium. Of course, you can read fault codes from my car with expensive workshop equipment, but not with cheap home equipment.

[@therusss]

Thank you!!!!!

[@gramoukdoom]

Wait, does a scan tool not work?

[@AKJeeper]

I haven't found any aftermarket scan tool that works on these older cars. I have several pro-level scan tools and none of them will do it. Haven't been lucky enough to win a Volvo one on ebay yet.

[@ЕрмекАсаужурек]

Зеленый провод подключается к номеру- 4 отверствие !