1999~2003 Acura 3.2 TL Motor Mount Replacement

This video will hopefully help you with replacing the front lower motor mount on your 1999 thru 2003 Acura 3.2 TL.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you and God bless.

[@michaelcornelius4902]

Sweet video. I got mine changed in about 2 hours. Doing the bolts in the order you suggested was key to doing this. Thanks a bunch!

[@mileseggimann280]

Solid video, but I've got an improvement on the tip relating to the top bracket (the three-bolt aluminum piece that attaches to the engine block): as you view the situation from above: while the upper/center bolt and the lower right bolts need to be removed, the lower LEFT bolt can merely be LOOSENED but not removed, and the entire aluminum bracket, while sliding the mount to the right, can be slid apart without entirely REMOVING that bracket, which will save you the incredible frustration of trying to re-thread the lower left bolt. No one needs that kind of punishment!

[@veronicagomez1409]

😊😊

[@jameshill1830]

i can’t seem to get it back on,, i think i lost position of the jack height , making it difficult to align the mount holes , 😢

[@nightmaremike1092]

Best video straight up

[@OhighOSkater]

Thank you for taking the time to explain things. This is a well done video

[@SGEGBraizy]

OhighO Skater Thanks. Glad it was of some help to you.

[@superfinefl]

Hi Justin thanks for replying. I managed to replace the mount in the end. I only wish that was the problem. I took my car to 1st Mechanic he said my problem was a bad tie Rod. Nope 2nd Mechanic said it was my motor mount! Yes it was bad but still not the main problem. I have a real bad creeping sound when I first turn left. No noise when I raise the car and run it. When I search this I get about 12 different suggestions. I guess I will have to break down and take it into Acura...

[@SGEGBraizy]

Ya, for tough problems like that, if you can afford it, I always suggest taking an Acura (or other newer imports) to a dealer, even if only for diagnoses purposes.

[@mikegilmore8998]

If it's a CREAKING sound when you turn or push on the front, that's your lower ball joints.

[@stevetilk4926]

Thanks for the video. This saved me some bucks. It was pretty easy.

[@JohnnyD5252]

Ok, I removed the big bolt in the side mount and cracked harder on the jack. You probably don't even need to remove that bolt. I didn't want to put too much pressure on the jack but I had to lift quite a bit to get it high enough. Then it was a piece of cake...

[@ronnyclaudio4341]

what might happen if the vacuum hose of the mount is not connected, can it bring some idle performance failure? like vibration or something like that?

[@HoneyBrookFreshAir]

good video

[@andrewpieri2664]

really nice video. Thanks

[@SGEGBraizy]

+Andrew Pieri Thank you. You're very welcome.

[@mileseggimann280]

BTW, would definitely tap some fresh threads on the stripped-out "upper right" bolt hole (it's pretty thin sheet metal, shouldn't be too tough with a solid tap & dye set) - wouldn't want any of the fasteners missing from on of the three mounts holding this engine in place.

[@danthemanzizle]

shit mines in worse condition than yours was, this video will serve me well someday soon.

[@ronnieg.989]

Justin, In the past weeks, I've noticed rattling/clunk noise coming from the engine bay. In the wake of the noises, I decided to take my car over to the local Acura dealer (I know -- they're always going to gouge you for services). I just wanted to confirm that indeed it was the motor mounts because I couldn't think of anything else that would make such noises & harsh vibrations while accelerating. Alas, it is the mounts; in fact, it is all of them! Of course I didn't go with getting those done at the dealer -- extremely expensive (1400). The service advisor told me not to go with aftermarket parts, so my question to you is: If I shouldn't use "aftermarket", not OEM parts, where should I purchase the mounts or what is reputable to your knowledge? Info on Car: 2002 Acura TL 3.2 (not Type-S) Mileage: 145K Any help is much appreciated. Thanks! -Ronnie

[@SGEGBraizy]

Hello Ronnie, I'd venture to guess that the service adviser wanted you to buy the parts from them, or he's at least doing his diligence to make sure Acura/Honda see the revenue from the OEM part purchase.I purchased an aftermarket front lower mount from Autozone, and I didn't have any trouble with it. You should be able to purchase any of these mounts from your local parts store. Buying something with a lifetime warranty is always your best bet.

[@solo_dolo2296]

Hi I have a question. How do you get the lower mount bracket off if the bolts are broken inside

[@ABGHCH2]

Hey Justin, Great video, you were very informative without rambling on like many how-to videos end up doing. I'm planning on doing this job to my '99 TL soon, but I'm not fully understanding how you're jacking your car up. You said you jacked it up like usual to get underneath it, and then used another jack with the 2x4 to hold up the engine itself? Or am I completely misunderstanding your technique here? Thanks in advance, Arkady

[@SGEGBraizy]

Arkady Demidov Thanks you for the compliment. I jack the vehicle up and placed it on jack stands. I then used the same jack and a small 2x4, under the oil pan to carefully support (not raise) the engine. It's just a safety measure because the front lower mount is a main support mount.

[@ABGHCH2]

All I have access to is three car jacks, one from my Acura, one from a Honda, and one from a Nissan minivan. Do you think I'd be able to do this safely with those? Thanks

[@raulhhernandez]

Do you have to put any glue to the vacum hose

[@JohnnyD5252]

Re-assembly is much harder then disassembly. Getting the first bolt for the bracket into the block was relatively easy but then I need to twist the bracket slightly to get in the next one. Using a jack you can usually lift or lower the engine to do this but in my case the jack just moves everything and does not change the position of the engine relative to the bracket. This is the first time I have had this kind of issue with a motor mount. I'm wondering if you had to remove the bolt in the passenger side mount to get the movement you need?? Any answers would be helpful. I'll add more if I figure it out. trying to get any leverage/torque on the bracket is very difficult. Has anyone done the rear bracket?? How is it to do?

[@SGEGBraizy]

John LaFoe, very sorry for the delay. I did not have to remove the passenger side motor mount bolt to adjust the height of the motor with my floor jack. You've likely already completed this repair but if for some reason you haven't, the only suggestion I can make is to move your jack closer to the front center of the car. I used a small block of wood and placed the wood/jack on the extreme front of the oil pan. I have not had to replace the rear mount. If you were able to get this achieved and have a source for the instructions, feel free to share.

[@superfinefl]

Cool video thanks. My 2004 TL is a little bit different and I have a question. The bracket that mounts to the engine case that is held on with the 3 Bolts. What tool did you use to remove the one to the left of the top bolt? There is zero clearance I'm stumped HELP

[@SGEGBraizy]

superfinefl, sorry for the delay. Your year model started the next generation of the Acura TL design. I can only confirm that this repair is good for 1993~2003 models. However, if your front lower mount is setup the same way, I can tell you that the lower left bolt that holds the mount onto the block is easiest to access from under the car. You may need to use an open ended box wrench to slowly remove the bolt.

[@almabotello2444]

Could you make a video on changing the mounting the rear engine mount

[@SGEGBraizy]

Unfortunately I no longer have this vehicle, or I’d be glad to help. If it weren’t in the scrap yard somewhere I’m sure it would need it by now! 😂🤙🏼

[@raiderv70741510]

I cannot get the back left bolt off from the mount! what exactly did you do? thanks!!

[@SGEGBraizy]

Good evening @Vidal. I'm sorry to hear that you're having trouble. Take a look at the video at the 7:54 mark. There's not a specific solution for this problem, but what worked for me was a combination of swivel sockets, and extensions. I had to crawl under the car and attach the makeup of sockets/swivel sockets from the underside, and then attached to the makeup of sockets from the top side. It's probably close to impossible without a decent swivel socket. An open ended box wrench may work, but you'll have very little to no room to move large movements so it'll take while.

[@bobbycarter4542]

What is the tube for connect at the bottom of the front motor mount on a 2000 acura TL?

[@SGEGBraizy]

@Bobby Carter, I replied to your question right away but just noticed that I didn't use the reply option so you'd be notified. Hopefully you seen my response a month ago. If not, here it is again: "The front mount on this model is vacuum assisted to provide an extra boost of air to the mount under heavy loads to keep it from failing."

[@danlicon2833]

I have a question about removing the 3 bolts that hold the aluminum bracket to the engine block. I am having trouble removing one of the bottom bolts. I accessed them from underneath the car and broke them loose. The bolt closest to the center of the car hits the motor mount before it fully unthreads from the bracket/engine block. Any suggestions. Thanks for video.

[@SGEGBraizy]

Hmm ... quite honesty it's hard to say. Are you still connected to the bolt with your box wrench/ratchet? If so drive the bolt in a bit remove your box wrench and flip it over to the open side. Ditch the ratchet and use an open end box wrench at this point. The only other thing I can assume is that the job has been completed prior to you getting the car and the bolts were placed back incorrectly somehow. The top center bolt is of different length than the bottom two. Also, I know I said to leave a bolt intact on the bracket in order to remove the center nut off the mount stud, but you could try to leave that nut intact just enough to hold the bracket to the mount. Then remove 3 of the 4 bolts on the motor mount itself, and loosen the 4th so that you have some play in it. This may give you the clearance you need. You will need to leave the bolt on the side opposite that you need the clearance on so that it rotates away from the block, giving you clearance. Please let me know of there's anything else I can do.

[@danlicon2833]

***** Thanks for the reply. I think tomorrow I will do what you suggest and leave the bolt in place and see if I can rotate the bracket and motor mount enough to get it out.

[@bbqbacon8067]

Mr Justin, i got one question, it that the way you changed your 2003 TL engine mount will can do in 2004 TL? (its a V6 engine too). Thank you.

[@SGEGBraizy]

Mike Copper. The mounts on your generation TL are different. They may be in the same location however, which may show some similarity to the 1999~2003 models, in which case, this video may be of some use to you. Your best bet is going to be to actually look it over and compare to this video.

[@Jamsk8s7]

Should I soak the bolts and for how long? Do I need to torque the bolts to the motor?

[@solo_dolo2296]

How would you do it if the bolts broke inside

[@tianajackson7872]

Can having a vacuum leak be part of the reason for the mount going out at all? I was aware I had a small vacuum leak in my Acura for about 2 years now but my ex husband said not to worry about it. Now I believe my motor mount may be bad, but if the leak might have caused it I might look into getting that fixed too.

[@tianajackson7872]

I know this video is old but I'm hoping you still keep tabs on your account so I can find some answers

[@brandonrodriguez4792]

I just purchased a front mount without the vacuum port or hose? Will it make a difference? Thanks!

[@SGEGBraizy]

Brandon Rodriguez To my knowledge, the vacuum port is there to relieve pressure while the mount is under a heavy load from the motor. If you are working on a 1999 ~ 2003 Acura TL or TLs then I'd strongly suggest returning the part and getting the mount that matches OEM specs.

[@ThatGuyKappa]

how did you know your front and back hydro mounts were bad?

[@SGEGBraizy]

When accelerating from a stopped position (or bumping the gas peddle with your foot on the brake), I started noticing a hard 'thud' sound. Eventually I had a friend observe the motor bay while I bumped the gas peddle. There was a significant rising type movement in the motor. The amount of ride may vary depending on how badly your mounts are worn. A mechanic can diagnose it for you if you are uncertain.

[@ThatGuyKappa]

I started thinking that it was my transmission lagging on internal clutch grab when i was accelerating from a stop at first gas application, it would lag and then thud catch, man my mounts must be crazy bad thanks alot for the reply.

[@bedoy34]

great video, do have any advice for the rear mount... i cant find anything on line.... everyone just says its hard? i am scratching my head over here.... thanks it's a honda accord v6 2001

[@xxgoukenxx]

Anyone know if motor from 2001-2003 TL Type S will work with regular 2002 TL? Any info appreciated. I've searched but haven't found anything

[@SGEGBraizy]

Yes. The front lower mount is the same for the standard TL as well as type S TL's.

[@raiderv70741510]

+Justin Guinn how did you get the bottom left bolt on the motor mount off!??? I can't figure it out! please help thanks!

[@shaunhunter7474]

Can u tell me the part # of this motor mount please?

[@derivedcunt1814]

Where is the best place to get these parts

[@SGEGBraizy]

Derived Cunt I’ll usually buy online @ Rock Auto or 1A auto, I needed this fixed quicker than what. It would’ve taken to ship the parts. Resorted to Autozone... no issues.

[@derivedcunt1814]

A hydrolic motor mount at autozone for my car is 128$. Rock auto its 78$.. In your opinion did you ever have any issues with the parts or cheat material of items..? If you can plzz due tell...

[@SGEGBraizy]

Derived Cunt No, I’ve never had any issues with parts from Rock Auto... without doing some research, I’m not sure how they’re so much cheaper a lot of the times. Keep in mind though that shipping cost will usually bring you closer to breaking even between a local parts store or buying online. Amazon sells a lot of autoparts now as well and if you have prime, shipping is free if you buy an item listed under prime.

[@derivedcunt1814]

Fuckin' Awesome! I know someone with a prime account too. Very helpful suggestions when dealing with these more expensive auto parts..... Thanks bro

[@dennisray9385]

They still won't tell u bout 00 Honda Accord ex v6 3.0 coupe

[@roderickdixon5920]

Thank you BUT NO THANKS