How to Replace Vacuum Hub Actuator 2009-2014 Ford F-150

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This video shows you how to install a new hub actuator in your 2009-2014 Ford F-150. If the 4 wheel drive system is not functioning properly, you might need to replace one of the hub actuators.
This repair was done on a 2009 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.4L Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door 4WD Automatic and the process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2009 Ford F-150
2010 Ford F-150
2011 Ford F-150
2012 Ford F-150
2013 Ford F-150
2014 Ford F-150
🔧 List of tools used:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/oWS/1AX...
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/obhQ/1A...
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/obCD/1A...
• 18mm Socket
• 21mm Socket
• 22mm Socket 1aau.to/opB/1AX...
• 8mm Socket 1aau.to/obhQ/1A...
• 1/2 Inch Impact Gun 1aau.to/ouQ/1AX...
• 3/8 Inch Impact Gun
• Ratchet 1aau.to/obG7/1A...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oaK7/1A...
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Bearing Grease
• Copper Anti-Seize
• Gloves 1aau.to/oajs/1A...
• Rust Penetrant
• Safety Glasses
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oaar/1A...
• Hammer
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oXD/1AX...
• Wheel Chocks
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[@1AAuto]

√ Watch the Video √ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto √ Do it Yourself √ Save Money

[@johnensomo288]

Took some detailed notes while watching. I'll be installing Dorman IWE delete (part#600-405) instead of OEM so I don't have to do it again down the line. Steps & Procedure 1. Remove Wheel: 21mm - Jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel. 2. Detach Vacuum Hose: Disconnect the vacuum hose. 3. Tie Rod End: 21mm - Disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle, tap it free with a hammer, and hang it with a bungee cord. 4. Remove ABS Sensor: 8mm - Unscrew and remove the ABS sensor bolt. 5. Remove Brake Hose: 10mm - Unscrew and remove the brake hose bolt. 6. Remove Brake Caliper: 18mm - Remove two bolts, release the caliper, and hang it with a bungee cord. 7. Remove Rotor: Pull off the rotor. If seized, tap between lug studs or use a threaded bolt to break it free. 8. Remove Axle Cap: Use pliers or a flathead screwdriver to remove the axle cap. 9. Remove Axle Nut: 13mm - Unscrew the axle nut and note the axle's length before pushing it in. 10. Upper Ball Joint: 21mm - Loosen the knuckle bolt to release the upper ball joint stud, then hammer it free and remove the bolt. 11. Detach Axle from Coupler: Push the axle inward to release it from the coupler. 12. Remove Vacuum Actuator: 8mm - Remove three bolts and detach the vacuum actuator. 13. Clean Components: Thoroughly clean all parts, including the rotor, using a wire brush and brake cleaner. Reassembly Steps: 14. Apply Grease: Apply a generous amount of wheel bearing grease to the new coupler and axle hub. 15. Install Coupler: 8mm - Hand-tighten three bolts, aligning the coupler by turning the axle left and right to ensure proper fit. 16. Reconnect Ball Joint: 21mm (25 ft-lbs) - Align the upper ball joint to the knuckle and secure the bolt. 17. Seat Axle: Push the axle back in, ensuring it is properly seated and matches the original length. 18. Reinstall Axle Nut: 13mm (20 ft-lbs) - Tighten the axle nut, avoiding overtightening. 19. Replace Axle Cap: Apply silicone grease to the axle cap and tap it into place with a rubber mallet. 20. Reinstall Rotor: Clean the wheel hub and lug studs, apply ceramic anti-seize (avoiding the studs), and hand-tighten one lug nut to hold the rotor. 21. Reattach Brake Caliper: 18mm (136 ft-lbs) - Secure the caliper bolts with Loctite. 22. Reconnect Brake Hose & ABS Sensor: 10mm/8mm - Secure the brake hose and ABS sensor; (reconnect the vacuum hose). 23. Reattach Tie Rod End: 21mm (85 ft-lbs) - Secure the tie rod end to the knuckle. 24. Reinstall Wheel: 21mm (150 ft-lbs) - Mount the wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Completed!

[@JamesStrikwerda]

Thank you, helpful to entry level mechanic like myself

[@husa4342]

Great job sir! For those changing their hub, most of these same steps apply there as well.

[@capncrunch504]

Watching this video was very helpful. I followed everything step by step. Thanks

[@WheezyWillis]

Thank you 1a auto. Fixed both sides on my 2010 xlt 4.6l f150 saved bunch of $$$

[@gadgetmantwincities]

What an excellent video!

[@tonyhernandez3873]

Buena explicación, agraria que revisen los engranajes del spindol ,u el brazo que conecta el actuador y la pieza que soporta el sivijoin "

[@jasonlynch7633]

Thank you. Those were perfect instructions.

[@happygear]

Quick question does actuator have a around spring sitting in the rubber?

[@alexstern7925]

What is the torque on the three 8 millimeters bolts holding the actuator?

[@jasonlynch7633]

I keep reading 30 ft lbs on the axle nut and 185 on the calipers. Why do you recommend 20?

[@grantdubridge7995]

Fordtech takes off the upper swingarm nut and separates it then does not take the brakes off.

[@BrettJayne-nx9fc]

Very good video

[@1AAuto]

+@BrettJayne-nx9fc Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@DK-wx8bq]

Excellent video.

[@georged1085]

Will I possibly need an alignment after changing these?

[@notjustawheelgrabber85]

As long as you do not take the lower arm loose from the frame. Or follow this video exactly you will not

[@DeeMak712]

Shouldn’t unless you have uneven wear on the tires. At that point, it may be best to get new tires especially if your tread is getting low

[@CarsonStassen]

Anyone know why I have the intermittent grinding sound. I checked the actuators with a vacuum gauge, each holding pressure. Checked my lines, each pulling pressure. This was yesterday and then i put it back together and I didn’t have any grinding for the rest of the day. Today I drove to work, heard the grinding, checked pressure and everything was good again. Could it be my cv axle?

[@jakemocs5573]

Did you ever resolve your issue? I currently have an intermittent clunk and grind only on 4x4

[@modernwarefare2kid]

I'm having this same issue. What did you figure out?

[@WhateversClever777]

I set my torque wrench wrong and broke the spindle off completely and had to change the cv axle out

[@RadTrav270]

Anyone info on why I’d be getting vacuum to one hub but low vacuum (5) to the other? After replacing everything?

[@doycewwas]

Thanks

[@josemanuelvargas9305]

ty

[@Wisconsin4eyes]

Well I guess we all know why I’m here.

[@hansmeizinger8840]

I hope a question I want to ask can be answered here, can I swap a complete 2016 front suspension in to my 2012 Ford F-150 4x4, all new parts very cheap to me. Thanks

[@matthewcody2963]

very good video