Here's Why You NEVER TOUCH Your TOYOTA CV Axles!!

[@1RoadGarage]

If y’all liked this video, check out this one where I replaced the sway bar bushings and end links and got rid of the infamous Toyota clunk: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4Wqq6mCfpp_kLssi=_J0PuWF6KRvZeAlW

[@Edwarddiaz21]

Next time just take the dust cap off and leave the tire on the ground, the nut will break loose easily and you won't have to struggle or have a brain aneurysm. I learned that my first time doing an axle job on a Toyota camry. I also learned to make a snatching tool from heavy duty dog chain, or medium size chain that wouldn't break and about a 2-3 foot piece of pipe or a piece of 2x4 to snatch the chain, as a snatcher wouldn't fit in place and a pry bar wouldn't budge it. I wrapped the chain around the axle at the differential snatched it out with a couple of pulls.

[@johnl9977]

Nice video bro, informative. I agree with liking OEM but also a reasonable price....so that would be Pick-n-Pull. Great for stuff like that. About the super tight axel nut, that is why one always uses the factory specified torque., makes the next guy to take it apart happy. I mean, at 200lbs with a cotter key, it ain't coming loose, no reason to tighten it more than that. I don't know if it is right or not, but I put a little never seize on parts that are a slip fit that might attract moisture. That's from separating hubs from axles that were bonded from rust, they can be a real bear. I've never been a mechanic, I just fix my family's things.

[@ktrain1100]

I'm glad you got the center nut off the axle, as it's always great when you succeed at nuts that have been torqued on strong. I have the same length breaker bar as yours but I placed the vehicle on the ground, have someone push the brake pedal, place a jack stand just like you have done, then put an extension on the socket and a 4 foot metal pipe on the long breaker bar and the nut will come off very easy.

[@toddgibbons7147]

A KZbin repair guy admitting he struggled and took 4 days. Your honesty is rare. I'm a fan now!

[@brucelarsen6650]

I liked it when he smacked himself in the kisser twice in a row, but I think he should have allowed himself to cuss a bit. Once, yeah... you can shake it off and ignore. Twice - in a row, quickly - you deserve to cuss. Also, I didn't see any Band-Aids or skinned knuckles. I figure his luck is gonna run out, so I subscribed. EVERYONE manages to bleed a bit on home repair stuff, it's actually an important part of the job. It's how you get "Ouchie Kisses" and "Poor Baby" coos from your S.O., and have a legit excuse NOT to do the dishes - if you work it right, for up to two weeks. REMEMBER: ALWAYS PUSH WRENCHES AWAY from yourself, NEVER PULL THEM TOWARDS YOU. Even the smaller ones. As your newest Subscriber, I will be closely watching and waiting for you to forget that! I sure hope you manage to disappoint me on that for a long time. Oh, and put some SAFETY GLASSES on, Dopey. God Bless ya.

[@CharlieChoco-n7s]

Keep the wheel on when breaking the nut loose. Just pop off the center cap on the rim to access the nut. You had trouble breaking it because the suspension was absorbing all the torque that you were applying

[@alexhafko5667]

Yep. Second that. Keep the wheel on, use a bigger breaker bar/cheater pipe if needed. Definitely needed if theres rust. Obviously he hasnt dealt with severe rust if he thought that was the tightest nut hes ever dealt with 😂. Also get a freakin huge impact gun. Lots of insanely powerful battery impacts these days. You dont need air most of the time.

[@AmericanThunder]

I just use my impact and it comes right off.

[@winschmitt4919]

I have a 3/4” drive set and some scrap pipes on hand for just such occasions.

[@swainlach4587]

I just used an impact and it broke my wrist.​@@AmericanThunder

[@HB-yq8gy]

That's a great tip thanks if I never want to tackle a cvt.

[@spelunkerd]

This kind of DIY experience is a recurring theme in almost all DIY adventures. There's sweat and drama when a bolt breaks or won't come out, there's a dilemma and delay weighing various options, there's unexpected difficulty from inadequate tools and inexperience. And there's a feeling of accomplishment and wisdom gained at the end when you make it all work. Nothing beats first hand experience.

[@rileyandikeysplaytime5936]

True that! While working for a VW shop whose owner formerly worked in the Wolfsburg VW factory years back, I was astonished watching him use his 8-foot-long cheater bar and socket to gracefully torque the flywheel after doing a clutch job. Somewhere around 700 foot pounds if I remember correctly! Ths socket and torque wrench were antique 1 inch drive German-made. His wisdom is hard to come by these days. His words "Never impact any hardened crown nut/gland nut" He would go on to explain that you can fracture the nut with an impact tool (imagine impacting with a socket 1mm too large) and not even realize it when assembling everything. The customer is out driving on a hill and it is hot, the clutch is hot and you dump the clutch one time too many....Off comes the fractured gland nut on the flywheel and your not going anywhere soon!

[@alexmanojlovic768]

Nothing, except being rich enough to be able to take it to a StealerShip & not care that the hourly rate is so high to pay for "free" coffees, buns & the hot, fit service receptionist & carpets....

[@MrPowecat]

Good video..... I've found if you break the axle nut loose before you njack the vehicle up it save you tons of time

[@mikecastleberry9671]

Bull

[@colt1815]

You can try running a tap the same size it currently is through it to just clean up the existing threads. I've done it multiple times with success. And that axle nut was definitely over torqued. I've dealt with them on Toyotas multiple times and they are NOT supposed to be that difficult unless they are severely corroded. Being over tightened like that can also reduce the life of the wheel bearing.

[@Izzy323x]

I think this is the best option, had a similar situation with my Forester when a mechanic stripped out a bolt that connects my LCA to the body/frame, I had no option but to tap it. Keep it OEM if you decide to swap it, junk yards probably best money wise. I learned my lesson letting other people work on my cars. lol

[@ex8280]

I just had the same issue. I should of looked into something like a thread chaser, but I wanted it done and just sent it. I was able to torque it to over 110ft/lb, and I hope it stays. This is on a 2000 tacoma. Oh well.....I should of just bought a couple new bolt, one to screw on, and one to make a thread chaser with. would of probably solved the issue.

[@Jmh24081987]

Definitely would try this first!! Good idea. Appears like most the threads are still there.

[@coopersloan3938]

You’d want to use a thread chaser, not a tap, big difference

[@colt1815]

@@coopersloan3938 done it with a tap. Still works.

[@TheZigZiggy]

I keep a 6' pipe handy that will slip over the breaker bar handle and give a lot more leverage for those hard to remove nuts and bolts. Works great!

[@1RoadGarage]

I need one of those

[@texZR2]

@@1RoadGarage Always have a breaker pipe.. Way to stick with it. Your Chevy Tahoe is laughing at you though. :) But I can tell you are having fun.

[@FinallyMe78]

I use my floor jack handle. And, I stand on it and jump

[@Mach141]

6' is a bit much. about 2 works fine

[@johncunningham4820]

And then you end up breaking the 1/2 inch drive element OFF the breaker bar . 3/4 inch drive is better for those Large Size Sockets .

[@merrillschaps2325]

The axle will go in easier if you make sure the opening of the C clip is facing down. Trust me, it works.

[@aboveitall8483]

I was told it was open end up so the open ends of the clip don’t catch or get caught up as you slide it in. If not please explain?

[@adambomb7331]

Couple tips from a Master (KZbin) Mechanic who has done their everything stock (other than X-REAS removed) '03 4Runner CV axles 3 times, and purchased my 4th set just yesterday. 1) Don't get aftermarket axles. This can be confirmed from the Car Care Nut repair channel (and other Toyota master mechanics). Repack grease & get a reboot kit. 2) rotate the shaft at the differential so the c-clip falls in a way that provides much less resistance. I won't say how long I spent my first time, but damn was I fast on jobs 2 & 3. 3) Don't get Cardone aftermarket axles, if you don't want to replace 3 times, in 3 years. 4) Get a Milwaukee M18 Mid-Torque to save yourself a bunch of time 5) mainly 1 & 3 My 4Runner went 200k+ with original axles. Now 3 sets of Cardone HD axles have had boots go bad in as many years. Only grace is the warranty obviously. What I didn't mention before, is my newest set are OEM from a accident GX470 vehicle with 100k miles. Biggest labor mistake I've made was getting the aftermarket ones, and tossing my original ones. Those are GOLD after your realize. I pickup them up tomorrow, and then the decision to grease & re-boot now, or hope Sorry to be a Debbie Downer, but it was a great video & I envy your lack of rust 😁 Buddy got recommended this video, and knew just who to send it to...Subscribed

[@bobthrasher8226]

I was going to say.... Yep Toyota OEM axles can't be beat.

[@1RoadGarage]

I wish this old axles were OEM. Unfortunately, both are aftermarket. This is the best solution for me right now. I will be looking into finding a set of used OEM axles. Thanks for the tips! 👍👍

[@deimosphob]

I actually had decent luck with trakmotive axles just make sure when they come from Rockauto they are fully assembled parts and not missing anything or mismatched part #'s Rockauto has had inventory issues especially with the ones I have received. If you ever have issues with the needle bearing in the diff you should replace the axle too, the bearing it rides on will wear into the axle if you have been riding on it long enoughand cause premature failure of the next needle bearing or oil impregnated bushing if you decide to install the ecgs bushing. Alot of the time you won't physically see the damage, and if you see ANY pitting on that surface DO NOT USE THE AXLE.

[@adambomb7331]

@@deimosphob I was excited for the axles I went to pick up yesterday, but there was rust on the splines. So the search continues

[@MichaelVeroukis]

@@1RoadGarage Might consider looking in the junk yards for one. Just pull one off that looks original and apply a new boot kit. Probably best option if you can find a used one.

[@Neshsgarage]

Being someone who recently did my 06 4runner axle and not replacing the seal only to have to go back and take the axle out just to change the seal as it started leaking, good idea on doing it all at once.

[@1RoadGarage]

Oh man, I’m glad I did them!!

[@Stambo59]

For future reference, and for anyone else that is having trouble getting that inner CV out, if you put an outward load on the inner CV joint with the pry bar and then tap the CV joint itself with a hammer, it often assists with removal.

[@ED-ti5tc]

Waiting to see what you did but I personally would got to a salvage yard just to see what they have. Great video!

[@kevinknotts6337]

I was thinking salvage spindles too. I did that with my truck a while back. When I bought it I had some rusty suspension spindles and other parts. Got used ones cheap from a local salvage yard, no rust. Cleaned them up, applied POR paint and they still look good. That was in 2016.

[@chavitacanta008]

I was thinking salvage too ! It would be OEM and you would have the OE bolt also ! Not really a wear part !

[@seansmyers2864]

I would get one from a junkyard. A factory knuckle for a fraction of the price as long as it looks to be in decent shape

[@toms7280]

A few months ago, I had a stuck wheel lug nut that would not budge (like your CV axel nut). Rather than using heat, I put an ice cube 🧊 on the lug nut for a few minutes and was surprised how the lug nut finally was able to be loosened.😮😊

[@charlesparnell5338]

I had a similar problem, around the same time, oddly enough. Only I was tightening my lugs. Just one more turn will do the tri.... snap. ugh. cars. I love the satisfaction of doing my own work, and saving loads of money. But I don't like it when things inevitably go wrong.

[@1RoadGarage]

@@charlesparnell5338yes, it is a major pain at times. But, if it broke for you it would have broke with a mechanic too. And that would’ve cost a ton to fix. 🤷‍♂️

[@charlesparnell5338]

@@1RoadGarage well not for me. I just went online and ordered the OEM hub bolt. (‘04 Rav 4) Easy fix. Used a punch; that I had cut down a bit with a grinder for a flat edge. Rotated the hub to the knockout location, and smacked it with a small sledge. 2 hits and she’s out. Put in the new one (lined up the teeth), and smacked it from behind, then used the lug nut to pull it on through. Piece of cake. 👍

[@mtyl27]

I did this job myself, using Toyota re-manned axles from CVJ Axles…..highly recommended.

[@Ken-zr8fl]

CVJ axles sent me one for my passenger side Solara that had REALLY BAD messed up axle splines on the transmossion end. It would not go in. Sent them pictures and everythong.They wouldn't pay for shipping back and even wanted my original one back to fix the one they sent me. I tossed their $240.00 axle in the garbage and bought a new Toyota one. CVJ Axles wasted my time and money

[@jean-claudeally2606]

Next time i'll do my Ford Ranger Super Cab myself

[@CurtPottorff]

Heli-Coil those stripped threads. The thread will be stronger than original, you’ll maintain the factory knuckle, and an entire Helicoil kit for an M16 is about the same price as an aftermarket knuckle.

[@jewllake]

my thought exactly!

[@cup_and_cone]

As tight as that CV axle nut was, it's not surprising they stripped out the ball joint bracket... Someone with a big impact went a little too happy.

[@1RoadGarage]

Agree

[@455buick6]

It's always amazed me how some people can tear up anything they touch just by not having the slightest clue how tight to make something!

[@Rob-cl7wz]

You get more leverage if you pull straight up using your legs. I never push down anymore since I've noticed the difference. That's if you don't have a strong impact wrench. Great content! Always appreciate your approach. Always look forward to your content.

[@1RoadGarage]

Thanks!

[@TET2005]

I would just pay for the OEM if I am going to drive it for a long time. The quality and piece of mind you get is worth the penny.

[@wrenchboostboi8994]

Every project I do, either DIY or professionally, one thing is consistent… nothing comes easy - except for maybe me after a tough week or work 😂

[@stevezodiac575]

G'day from Western Australia. Hey this was an excellent video! Very clear easy to follow instructions. Detailed and clear images/video. A professional and caring approach. Thorough research and options analysis. I enjoyed every moment and learnt a lot! Thank you.

[@Changtent]

As a retired HD Mechanic after a 40 year career in that field, I was amused by your efforts breaking loose that castle nut. Just another day on the job for me. For a tough one like that, I would be using a 3/4" drive flex bar with a two or three foot pipe properly fitted to the bar. That was (is?) my standard way to approach similar jobs. That 35-mm socket translates to 1-3/8" (1.378"). Any socket over 1" should also be a 3/4" drive. I've used 1/2" drive sockets with an adapter which accepts the 3/4" flex bar, and broken the adaptor. Although the adaptor usually works, just be aware that it may break. I don't like to use 3/4-drive impacts on precision parts although that is another option if you have a BIG air compressor. Just idle thoughts from an old man. Kudos for using the jack stand to support the socket, like a pro. One more thought for next time, use your foot on that flex bar in case anything 'lets go' unexpectedly - much safer and more effective than using your hands where you could loose your balance and get hurt.

[@AllanGabstonHowell]

I agree with the 3/4" drive selection, and have had to follow-up work done by idiot-over-torquers by bringing in a 4-foot length of black pipe (used for natural gas piping jobs) to coax fasteners loose. How they don't shear-off the fasteners is beyond me--particularly with wheel studs. At least grade 10 and 11 bolts and studs seem to stand up under the abuse--most of the time.

[@jefferysill5539]

Never had an issue loosening hub nut 1/2" impact spins them right off

[@WillShowmaker]

Real life work! Not working on a new truck, good job

[@orlalara]

Beautiful work. I think i saw the other video when you replace the hub and said some things about OEM cv axles. It won't hurt taking your old cv axle to some honest mechanic shop to confirm that is an OEM part. If so, i would suggest buying a toyota boot kit for that, it's worth the hassle (if it has no weird sounds when turning). The only thing you would regret with time is having applied too much grease on the hub seal (the abs sensor is going to be full of grease and could fail or not register properly). Thanks for the video, excellent job.

[@rtraymond]

FYI next time you need to install seals/bushings or anything press fit, put the new part in the freezer about an hour before, it shrinks and almost goes in effortlessly

[@1FreeSelfGoverningAmericanMan]

In addition to leaving the wheel on while breaking the nut, put a piece of pipe over your lifetime warranty breaker bar to extend the length and gain leverage.

[@rael5469]

;)

[@stagesmith]

I just did the front right CV axel on my 2004 4Runner. The trick I found for pulling and installing the CV Axel was to apply a Vise grip chain clamp on the inner hub and use a slide hammer with a hook to pull the axel. Popped right out. I used the same trick to install just used a long bar to strike against the chain to pop it in. Also a 1-7/16" socket works on the hub nut.

[@44hawk28]

I will give you a tip. Every 6 months or so or possibly whenever you do an oil change and you get up underneath the vehicle, get some 303 protectant and spray the rubber on those boots. Spray all the rubber anywhere on the vehicle and let it sit for a few hours. You can even spray the tread on the tires three or four times a year. And you'll get much Les wear out of the tires.

[@craigyarmulasr1845]

Great job. You always surpass my expectations. The shade tree mechanic lives in you. 👍👍

[@jl-5188]

Have also used Cardone, brake calipers, and was NOT HAPPY - pistons were pitted and chrome was flaking and Cardone did not bother to replace!! Will definitely avoid forever!

[@AgentLokVokun]

Floor jack and a jack stand. Jack stand to support the socket. Floor jack to push upwards. Thanks me later.

[@k4piii]

Dammmmm, I didn't think about that, good recommendation

[@AgentLokVokun]

@@k4piii A little sketchy but it works in a pinch.

[@steamy1225]

How do you support the socket when you pushing up on the breaker bar ? That will lift the socket off the jackstand.

[@AllanGabstonHowell]

@@steamy1225 Use a six-point box end wrench. They don't hop off the fastener. Yes. They *are* available in truly huge sizes.

[@radasmadass2370]

Long pipe also helps.

[@rileyandikeysplaytime5936]

After looking at the damage to the factory castle nut, I would take a bench grinder to the front of that 35mm deep socket and slowly (to not overheat) grind off the rounded finished tip so when it mates onto the castle nut you're getting 100% purchase. That axel nut is so narrow I would want as much grab as I could possibly get. Good luck correcting that problem should this Harbor freight socket slip and damage the nut further!

[@shawnburke2866]

Good job, I completed a similar task about 4 months ago on both sides, while replacing the unit bearings. I had the most trouble getting the axles to go back in. One of the axle suppliers on Rock Auto has an installation video which illustrates positioning the opening of the circlip down on install the axle. They are correct! It was much easier. Use a dab of grease to hold the clip and lube it during install as he did. If one inspects out of the truck, it is easy to see more interference with the opening up, instead of down.

[@bakjr007]

This Toyota series is really making me think I should make an investment into an old V8 4Runner! Well done! I look forward to this truck getting upgrades. (very much "Car Care Nut" Vibes!)

[@1RoadGarage]

There will be upgrades soon.

[@boda4339]

We all put pipes on the breaker bar in order to gain leverage. You did it without the pipe. Awesome!

[@RGV2300]

Some tips: -For axle nuts, of course, first preference is an impact, but if you need to use a breaker bar, use a deadlift kind of motion, so the breaker bar goes up instead of down. It's a way more stronger pull. -To take out the axle from the gearbox do exactly the same you were doing with the pry bar, but instead of using your arms to pry, use a hammer, so is the hammer doing the "impact lever". Nothing will happen to the transmission case. You take off a lot of effort doing this, and the axle can get out even at the first try. I copy the trick from an English youtuber that only works changing clutches. -To make room for the axle, just remove the tie rod end from the knuckle, this way the knuckle can have more range of motion to turn. It doesn't need to be fully straight, it can have certain angle, the most important step here is to match the splines correctly, from the axle and the diff, so the new seal remains unharmed. -I don't like to use a hammer to push in the axle. IMO, is better to gently use the inner cv joint as a slide hammer. When the clip inside is placed well, they can enter in one gently push. -Buying a whole new axle is faster, but it doesn't mean reusing the old driveshaft and replacing boots and cv joints is inferior. Is not as fast of course, you have to take off both cv joints, boots, clean the grease (the worst part for me), fill the new cv joints with grease, slide the boots first, install cv joints and then clamp the boots. Just like building an engine, it can turn out to be relaxing, specially if you have an air hammer to take out the old/bad outer cv joint (usually retained by a circlip). Good choice on replacing the entire knuckle, it's safer, those usually do not have too much room to increase the thread diameter. Idk if it's safe to use thread inserts.

[@panepinto1959]

Loved this video. Glad I am not the only one who says, this is a bad idea, it will round a nut or bolt, and goes ahead and does it anyway. Glad not everything goes your way like my automobile projects. Misery loves company. But, you have a far better disposition than I do when things don't work out right.

[@GrandePunto8V]

Under 35 mm is imperial 1"3/8 socket. The 24 mm => 15/16". If metric tools have a bit too much play, they (bolts/nuts) might not be metric...

[@sjd7188]

The oem axles in my 07 camry lasted 227 k , yes the oem replacements are expensive , replace it once though. Toyota makes a fantastic cv joint and boot

[@Laserred01]

This reminds me of every time I have to work on my cars. A "simple" 2 hr job turns into an all dayer.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

That's only because you've never done it before. When you do, say, your front brakes, the first side will take twice as long to do as the one on the other side.

[@Laserred01]

@@robertmaybeth3434 Not exactly what I was referring to. I've been working on my own cars for 35+yrs. Only taken a vehicle to a mechanic a few times (2/3 was warranty related). There's always something unexpected that happens. Could be like what you were doing at the beginning. A bolt that refuses to come off. Something breaks, new part doesn't align properly, etc.

[@rezkidgamingyt4725]

I for one appreciate that you don’t edit out the things that go wrong cause in reality when dose a mechanics job ever go right the way it says in the book .the other ting about those cv axles if you rotate the axle about 90% it should pop right out with that pry bar .and the other thing is taking the hub off and the wheel bearing makes it a lot easier to replace the cv axle then pulling your suspension apart . Good video man and you could re-tap those threads with the next size up . Yea having the tools for the job is nice I buy tools even when I don’t need them lmao . All the time

[@MatsDance]

‘Opportunity to buy more tools’ Yes I’ve skimped on tools for a long time. Recently upgraded & added. Best tool added is a burred nut socket set. Made removal of damaged bolts easy

[@BulletSpoung]

As you can see, when Toyota puts a car together they do it right. I had to change the passenger side CV axle on our 2015 Rav4, it also took me several days to get the carrier barring loose. I ended up cutting it off and just bought a new one, no way it was ever coming off. Nice video, good to see I'm not the only one who struggles.

[@AllanGabstonHowell]

On that carrier bearing, the best approach in dealing with the bearing being seized inside the carrier frame is to remove the carrier frame with the CV half-axle, remove the retainer bolt, and press it out on a floor press. Clean-up the bearing recess in the carrier frame on a floor standing, or bench mounted, motorized wire wheel, then coat both the outer race of the new bearing, and the bearing recess in the old carrier frame, with copper anti-seize compound, re-insert the bearing into the carrier frame, tighten the retainer bolt fully, wipe off the excess anti-seize compound, and reinstall the assembly into the vehicle. Fortunately, you are working on the side of the transaxle case that is "easy out / easy in" because you are not dealing with having a circular retaining clip on the inboard splines. The next time you need to pull that CV half-axle, it will slide right out as soon as you remove the retainer bolt from the bearing carrier frame. By the way, applying copper anti-seize compound on the rear hub face and centering ridge, before re-installing rear rotors, also makes those (as well as the front rotors, if similarly addressed) a zero-effort proposition to remove at a later date. Working on vehicles is as easy as you make it, but that takes forethought and preparation. Always be thinking about the next time you have to perform a task, or similar tasks, and take steps to make your future work easier and faster. When doing that becomes a habit, working on your vehicle becomes a relaxing leisure-time activity.

[@sat_sonic]

For the axles, I agree with the others you really have to buy OE for Toyotas and Hondas. For the knuckle, I don’t expect that to be a high wear and tear / failure point so a salvage yard would be where I would look.

[@raul.deanda]

One tip I've heard before is to apply a rubber & tire sealant to the rubber boots every time you do an oil change and they will last so much longer. I've been doing this religiously and It seems to be working, the boots always look clean and supple

[@znogaragego3421]

Wrap a piece(~6’) of aircraft rope around the CV axle where it meets the transmission. You can use any metal wire that won’t stretch. Use some rope clips to secure it so it won’t move around then pull the other end with a slide hammer. They usually pop out really easily. No need to crawl under the car.

[@dr.davidloperdc5758]

aircraft rope?

[@AllanGabstonHowell]

@@dr.davidloperdc5758 Smaller diameter steel cable is what he is referring to. Not my first approach, personally speaking. Years ago, I got a-hold of some 3/4" cold rolled bar stock. Two pieces that were 4" x 15" x 0.75". I cut out a 1.5" x 11" chunk of the bar stock from each side of the same end of both bars, leaving me with an 11" x 1" x 0.75" handle on what looked like a couple of steel fly swatters. On the other end of both bars, I made a couple of cuts. 1" from each side of the flyswatter end, 3" deep, then joined the cuts at the 3" depth point, removing a 2" x 3" x o.75" chunk of the bar stock, leaving me with a couple of squared-off 'C' shapes with an 11" handle coming off the center of the backs of those squared-off 'C' shapes. Some work with the bench grinder, several files, and carborundum grit sand paper, turned them into a couple of very large pickle forks, with one difference--where pickle forks are not tapered on the inside of the tines, I put a very definite "ramp" on the inside of the tines, on the same face of the bar stock, with the slopes descending toward each other on the inside of the tines. A bit of time in the kiln (to bring them up to a nice yellow glow), and a swirling plunge into a drum of transmission fluid, made them tough enough to handle the application of a hand sledge to the handle end of my kludged tool. Sliding the flat side against the transaxle case, and rapping the end of the handle with a small (you don't need anything heavier than 80 oz.) hand sledge will dislodge that circular clip, and press it into the inboard CV half-axle spline end, and that sucker pops right out, after no more than 2 or 3 whacks with "the persuader". I originally thought that it would take two of these things, possibly driven-in from as close as 180° apart as I could manage it, plus some prying, would be needed to get a CV half-axle out, but I was pleasantly wrong about that. Just one is necessary, and a few whacks with the hammer, and it's a done deal. You don't even break a sweat on a hot day, getting the thing out. I only mention this because I am starting to see tools similar to what I came up with (I guess I should have applied for a patent, but no. Probably not. It would be expired by now anyways.) being sold on Amazon (fairly cheap, actually); so, maybe you should look there and get yourself one to make that left CV half-axle removal waaaay easier, and spend all that spare time you will find yourself with doing something you like better.

[@SteveInterdonato]

My son replaced his CV axle and lower ball joint (which fell out driving) on his 2001 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 with No issues a far as time goes?

[@Ninjasraynonu3]

A Milwaukee 1/2 inch would taken it off in like 2 seconds lol

[@1RoadGarage]

Maybe

[@AAAKhan87]

@@1RoadGarage for sure, I do it all the time, even takes off bus/semi nuts and bolts.

[@rael5469]

Ugga Dugga !

[@whereugoin44]

Hey Jimmy before you replace the knuckle try a tread chaser tap first. Since the treads are already there and damaged no need to recut new a one try to chase what is there to repair them first. Just my two cents.

[@Moxnix1701]

Thank you for putting this video together. Glad to see I'm not the only one that has stuck nuts and bolts. I've taken days for jobs that are only supposed to last hours on my 4th gen. OEM parts are just way too crazy expensive. I see you have aftermarket sway bar links; nice! Guessing you'll eventually replace the steering links. Looking forward to your other videos.

[@tobilam6930]

2018 Toyota Highlander AWD - had the CV done in a shop and they f'ed it up and it started leaking - was 3 hrs from home, when I noticed it was leaking. Took it to the dealer in Reno NV and they couldn't get the OEM CV axle, charged me 4k to change the inner seal and f'ed it up even more. Took it back to the original shop, they fixed everything, but I was left a wobble, they couldn't ever find the issue (8 months)- finally found a shop who fixed the problem but they also nicked the inner seal and had to take it back, for them to find more issues (happened at the dealer in Reno). If you own a Toyota and need to do the CV axle, just take it to a reputable shop and watch for leaks. This seems to be a reaccuring issue with the Toyotas.

[@alfredoverton9649]

Yup. Same thing happened to me. Day or so after the repair I noticed something leaking. Bringing it to a different repair shop.

[@javieraceves942]

Great video. Thank you for sharing.

[@floydmurray9249]

Bro! You did an awesome job of how explaining all the variables of what is involved when being a DIY mechanic!!👍 I've have done this very thing when explaining this to my fiance, my sister, and other interests, and wow is it taxing on my brain! And after all the explanation! All they can say is "Wow! And when do you think you'll have it done?" 😂😂. So "Hat's off to you!" Great job! And keep up the Great work! Look forward to the next! " Mechanical Adventure!" 👍👍👍🤠

[@Changtent]

Excellent video with thorough coverage, thanks. Much enjoyed watching it.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Easy way to put the cv axle in is orient the C clip opening at the bottom will make the cv slip in easier 16:00 @1Road

[@charlesparnell5338]

More leverage will help a lot. Get a metal pipe, and slide it over the end of the breaker bar. Stand on it if you have to.

[@charlesparnell5338]

And Please don't say "That was easy". You'll Jynx the whole damn project! 😀

[@annettesurfer]

I would've used a cheater pipe as well but pulling upward against the concrete, plus I would've been inclined to heat it to liquify any threadlock applied.

[@mschulz55]

I replaced my cv axles on my FJ 2yrs ago with the cardone ones there still going I also spray silicone spray on the boots seems to keep them from cracking. I have my original cv axles with new boots and grease so if the aftermarket one go bad I’m ready.

[@20tea]

Anyone attempting to save the cv and replace the torn boot, the EMPI boots are great! They handle the angles if you have a leveling kit and are very durable.

[@swainlach4587]

How did you keep that frame looking so clean? Are you not in the rust belt?

[@MichaelVeroukis]

Last time I had to change an axle I got one from the wreckers. Even cheaper than Cardone but will likely last way longer. Btw, I'd just get a knuckle from the wreckers as well. It's not really a wear item so just make sure it's not damaged, clean it down and you're good to go.

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

A few notes a jack under the front suspension arm makes using a breaker bar much more effective Use a long breaker they are available up to 1 metre in 1/2" drive. Your impact wrench looked best a low end mid torque power. In Europe we tend to just change the outer CV joint with shaft still on car quicker and easier. There is even a low cost specially designed puller for the job

[@uptownsamcv]

great job. I had a bad experience with 2 Cardone steering racks on an Acura a few years back so I avoid that brand now. one thing I have got in the habit of doing is using the original C clip for the inboard spline. back when I had my CRX I had pop out issue on a n aftermarket CV axle and ended up getting a C lip from Honda and it never gave me problems again.

[@DrewOdell-vv4gt]

Glad I own a Honda,only took me 30 minutes to change my CV 1/2 shaft and Only removed rim and 2 bolts total.. Hanes video helped Alot lol

[@AllanGabstonHowell]

I can say that the new Cardone CV half-axles, with the thermoplastic boots over the outboard CV joints, are definitely superior to the OEM Toyota CV half-axles in most respects. I'll tell you why. R&D freeze, or feature freeze. During the engineering phase for a product (like a vehicle), new information is discovered as a result of research and materials testing, which can enhance the reliability and longevity of specific parts, as well as the vehicle as a whole. This process never stops. There is an engineering team working on the next generation of any vehicle model line, and advances in technology come along before the newest model generation has even entered the tooling-up phase; however, manufacturers put a hold on introducing changes in both the features of an automobile, as well as the manufacturing processes and quality of parts and sub-assemblies years before we see a generational change released in the model line. From their point of view, it is both cheaper for them to do this (and it is), but also, this makes working on the first generation of a model line much easier and far less insane when parts do not change from year to year within a generation of a model release, when that model generation can be 7 years in duration. A lot of changes are moved into the next, unreleased generation of an automobile model line. Now, aftermarket part and sub-assembly manufacturers really don't have those restriction upon their activities. As a matter of fact, it is to their advantage to continue to improve the materials composition of the parts that they manufacture, and thus the overall quality and reliability of the products that they sell, and you will very often find that aftermarket parts far exceed the quality of OEM parts. This is their bread and butter, and it pays to re-engineer for higher parts quality, particularly when the physical dimensions of the parts are static....unchanging. This is why you will see that the parts sold by third party manufacturers will be, many times, far superior to the parts which continue to be sold by OEM dealerships. The OEM parts are old news, and it is highly doubtful that the OEM manufacturers will continue any R&D process on parts which have already gone through the process--Why bother?--they are too busy with their R&D efforts on future models, and the third party manufacturers will quickly fill that gap, and dealerships can coast along on the public impression that all OEM parts are superior to all third-party manufactured parts (third-party manufacturers who, in many cases are the direct sub-contracted manufacturers for the OEM parts which are installed on the vehicles at the factory). So, don't fall victim to simplistic thinking with regard to this. Recall issues are a different matter altogether, and vehicle manufacturers have always been reluctant to make any change to "past models" unless there is a liability risk for them when an issue comes up. Why? Current models are R&D'ed-out, and any additional investment in a "dead product" is "lost profits" as far as any manufacturer is concerned. All you have to do is remember the "Stuck Accelerator" problem that Toyota had to respond to (which was almost certainly a firmware issue with their ECMs, a truth that they didn't dare admit out of fear of giving a very reliable line of vehicles a black eye in an area which very few consumers actually understand, while being an area of vehicle function which is very difficult to reacquire consumer confidence in, were they to admit the mistake), so, instead of hemorrhaging in the area of sales, they issued unnecessary retainer clips for their driver-side foot well floor mats, and dared anybody to contradict them, the knowledgeable manufacturers, over the issue. The subsequent firmware updates that the affected vehicles received upon dealerships put the matter under the doormat neatly. Anyways, you are wondering if the Cardone CV half-axle you installed will stand up to wear and tear better than the CV half-axle that you could buy from the dealership parts department, right? Well, I've used Cardone CV half-axles on all of my Toyota vehicles since 2010, and I have always exceeded the recommended replacement interval by more than 50%--in terms of mileage--and I put a LOT of miles on my vehicles (2004 Highlander with more than half-a-million miles that I put on it, and I am smugly happy with the vehicle performance, as well as my aftermarket parts choices). So, rest easy. You will get more than your $60.00 or $80.00 worth out of your parts purchase. Now, with that stripped bolt hole in the steering knuckle......do a bit of searching on the MOOG website to see if they offer a "Knuckle Assembly" for your vehicle. In my case, I discovered that they offer the MOOG-LK025 and MOOG-LK027 complete knuckle assemblies for front driver side, and the MOOG-LK026 and MOOG-LK028 complete knuckle assemblies for front passenger side. All 4 of these are intended for use upon the 2004, 2005, 2006, and 2007 year models of Toyota Highlanders. As well, they offer the MOOG-LK023 and MOOG-LK024 complete knuckle assemblies for the front driver side, and the front passenger side corners, respectively. Those are intended for use on 2004 - 2009 Lexus RX330, RX350, and RX400h models as well as 2004 - 2009 Toyota Highlanders. They also seem to have the majority of Toyota K-frame vehicles covered, along with a generous range of other Toyota frame types. For me, the MOOG-LK025 and MOOG-LK026 saved me from having to stand in front of the hydraulic press, and turned a 3 hour per corner job (including press work) into a 1 hour per corner job, and they have been on my vehicle for about 3 months now, without any problems. Just to give you an idea of the vehicles covered: MOOG-LK023 Fits 3.3L/3300cc/202cid, V6, Hybrid and Hybrid Limited models ONLY DS / LEFT Lexus RX330 2004 - 2006, Lexus RX350 2007 - 2009, Lexus RX400h 2006 - 2008 Toyota Highlander, 2WD & 4WD, 2006 - 2007 MOOG-LK024 Fits 3.3L/3300cc/202cid, V6 Hybrid and Hybrid Limited models ONLY PS / RIGHT Lexus RX330 2004 - 2006, Lexus RX350 2007 - 2009, Lexus RX400h 2006 - 2008 Toyota Highlander, 2WD & 4WD, 2006 - 2007 MOOG-LK025 Fits 2004-2007 Toyota Highlander Base and Limited, 2WD & 4WD, 3.3L/3300cc/202cid, V6 models ONLY DS / LEFT MOOG-LK026 Fits 2004-2007 Toyota Highlander Base and Limited, 2WD & 4WD, 3.3L/3300cc/202cid, V6 models ONLY PS / RIGHT MOOG-LK027 Fits 2004-2007 Toyota Highlander, 2WD & 4WD, 2.4L/2362cc, L4 models ONLY DS / LEFT MOOG-LK028 Fits 2004-2007 Toyota Highlander, 2WD & 4WD, 2.4L/2362cc, L4 models ONLY PS / RIGHT Now, add-up the individual prices of what is included in the assembly (MOOG steering knuckle (e-coated), backing plate (e-coated), National brand wheel bearing, wheel bearing retainer snap ring, stainless wheel bearing shield/seal (e-coated), axle nut, MOOG wheel hub with studs, and a pretty box to ship it to you in) and see how the total compares to RockAuto's price for the assembly: $136.79 (DS/LEFT, 30 Spline), $222.79 (PS/RIGHT, 30 Spline), and see what you think about it. Personally-speaking, what I saved covered the cost of replacing both CV half-axles, all four struts, and two new front tires. So, think about it.

[@raffaellobottoni871]

In the case of a stripped thread, you need to use a larger drill bit to ream out the hole, then tap it with a specific larger diameter and then apply a steel helix! This way you can be sure that the bolt will hold! Congratulations!

[@Tablesaw818]

Great video Jimmy! One of the best channels on KZbin!

[@1RoadGarage]

Wow, thank you!!

[@mschulz55]

I replaced my cv axles on my FJ 2yrs ago with the cardone ones there still going I also spray silicone spray on the boots seems to keep them from cracking. I have my original cv axles with new boots and grease so if the aftermarket one go bad I’m ready

[@g.simard854]

so humble dude, stay the way you are !

[@crosleyfiver8686]

Go OEM on the knuckle ..... shafts ok by other maker.

[@1RoadGarage]

That’s a lot of cash. I’m going to be looking for a good used unit as a spare.

[@crosleyfiver8686]

@@1RoadGarage I'd look for an OEM one at a local salvage yard or online.... Put that one on the 4Runner. You can assume you will never do that same job again. Who ever did that on yours should not of been wrenching. Probably did not have the proper tools. Have had my 26yr old 3rd Gen and never replaced the knuckles. I have replaced the shaft with aftermarket. 2 Xmas's ago, brother and I redid front end bushings, tie rods, ball joints, steering rack bushing. I've been replacing things on it for they have not failed but at 205k miles, something might. So have replaced Braked MC with genuine part, Alternator Denso, Now my 4x4 stopped working from one day to the next, so I will be working on that diagnosis.:) Fan Clutch, Denso. Enjoy the videos!!!! Bryan In El Paso

[@ChezJohn]

GREAT episode Jimmy, I learned a great deal about cv axles, thanks so much.

[@jumpinjehoshaphat9075]

3:42 you need a friend to hold the brakes and a long piece of iron pipe . You're also better off using 3/4 drive stuff. 5:00 get a brass hammer. That's a good tool to add to the box. I much prefer my brass hammer to a dead blow and it's more durable too.

[@CascadiaBC]

Yep 3/4" drive bar and pipe, wheel on and have someone press on the brake, the jackstand to support the large socket is a good method too.

[@jumpinjehoshaphat9075]

@@CascadiaBC yes I learned from that jack stand between the studs. Never considered it, we shadetrees learn together

[@CascadiaBC]

@@jumpinjehoshaphat9075 Yes the purpose of the jackstand is more to support the socket while keeping it square on the nut, allowing you to have both of your arms on the leverage 'breaker' bar. Cheers

[@tomblobasjamesc.mccollum1740]

Man you got skills! Pep Boys needs guys like you. You should go "volunteer" part time or something.

[@jasonbabila6006]

I have replaced a few parts on my SUV with Cardone parts in the past and never had any issues yet.

[@RJ-vb7gh]

On the last CV job I did I put an 8 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and my father, my fried and I jumped up and down on it to break it free. You should have seen that SK breaker bar flex nearly 30 degrees before that bolt broke loose. The socket was an air impact Taiwan thing that was actually amazingly strong, until I used it at 0 F outdoors one winter and it shattered like glass launching me into the car fender face first. Never use air cheap impact sockets outside when it's too cold. As a footnote someone makes a 6 foot long wrench specifically for CV nuts. I once got to use that, but it still took 2 of us to break that nut loose, but that thing didn't bend. It also weighed around 25 lbs.

[@kennethsulzen7694]

Next time when you go to Harbor Freight pick up the 36” 3/4” breaker bar. Great Vid ✌️

[@Gryphus-R]

Trick I learned yesterday from the "car care nut channel" to solve the struggle you had at arround 7:30. Rotate the axle. When the retaining ring is pointing down, it will be much easier to compress and hence the axle will come out easily

[@adamt581]

I popped of the wheel center cap and put the wheel back on and lowered it to the ground, real stable for that extra torque. You could also use the floor jack under the breaker bar handle and break it upwards.

[@markryl-kuchar2373]

See if your local salvage yard has any 4Runners in stock and get an oem knuckle from there

[@sethdunn96]

For hardware replacement stuff, like the knuckle. If you have a pick-n-pull in your area (or something similar) then get the stuff from there. A lot cheaper and most likely it will be an OEM part. Just have to pull it off yourself, but hey, that ain't so bad.

[@ShiroKuroh]

I can see why this would easily be missed when buying a "certified" or "Preferred" used car at the dealer, but how was it missed on your or the owner's initial inspection before purchase? Also, I've only used RAxles out of Gainesville after several failed aftermarket replacements. Can't go wrong with their rebuild process. They only use OE original parts, yes even the boots.

[@dricklorenz9340]

Regarding Cardone, I used new CV axles on a 2013 Outback but I was getting a whirring noise despite swapping out 2 times. Had to go to Subaru OEM for 3x the price but noise is gone. Regarding Dorman, I've now used their Premium XL suspension products on 3 cars and they definitely seem to be quality parts.

[@dunckeroo1987]

Hey Bud got a 1 3/8inch socket. Tap that on. Got a piece of pipe to extend the breaker bar.

[@sethdunn96]

When putting the axle back in the wheel bearing, you will want to use some anti seize grease. Just makes things a whole lot easier next time you have to do the job.

[@corynewton9311]

You should check out one of the magnetic induction heaters like the Bolt Buster. They work wonders for troublesome things like this.

[@lorrinbarth1969]

As for a knuckle there's a number choices: find one at a salvage yard, check if the local body shop can order a used one, have a machine shop drill and tap the knuckle. Its a good opportunity to rebush the lower control arm. BTW, I've replaced many axle boots.

[@miscbits6399]

6:00 when you see threads like that, ALWAYS run a chaser tap down the hole to clean it up

[@mobobrien4934]

just a tip. whenever you need extra torque, and a half inch breaker bad isnt working, get a 3/4 breaker with a longer handle. my 40 inch 3/4 with a 1/2 inch reducer never fails me. great content tho

[@Bando-fx4mf]

You need long aluminum tube for leverage. Put the ratchet through the pole then loosen. Always good for lug nuts that are hard to get off the rim. My dad taught us always have an aluminum pole in the trunk.

[@davidisdivad]

Axle nut on a landrover 2004 is 416 ft lbs. I broke a 2ft 1/2 inch breaker and bought a 3/4 4ft and still had to use a pipe on the breaker to loosen. Corrosion was a factor.

[@matraz10]

When first loosening the CV axle bolts on my '11 Range Rover, I just used an extra long piece of pipe I had... about 5ft long-broke loose no problem. That knuckle bolt, IMO, is making a big deal out of nothing. That bolt the previous owner used was tight; what more could you ask for? A tight bolt is a tight bolt. What would have been bad is if you came across a broken bolt that was partially drilled out and a smaller bolt used or a bolt used with JB Weld, those would be issues. But that bolt obviously works; otherwise, it would have fallen out. So leave it or replace the knuckle, no big deal.

[@tjtamisha7621]

Penetrent will do nothing but saw that you finally used the jack stand to hold it up which was the best way of doing it.

[@Beethoven2949]

those cv axel boots always wear out, here in the UK they check them on a MOT/inspection, also when your full lock on the steering wheel, those rubber cv axel boots compress and rub on them selfs so they will always wear down over time

[@richardlewis4288]

I replaced a 2006 Camry driver side cv axle. The axle nut was a 12 point 35mm with a 200ftlb torque. Used an impact.

[@seisont]

Keep the stock CV, reboot it and repack it so you can keep it in the truck as a spare for when the cardone axle breaks.

[@49mrbassman]

I have a set of 3/4 drive sockets plus 24 inch 3/4 drive long bar and a 6ft length of scaffold pole which usually does the job.

[@45yt6]

wrap 2-3 layers of shop towel around the axle nut and knock the socket in. The socket will hold itself nice and tight.

[@nicholasgranat2999]

Good job you stuck with it!

[@richardjacques1731]

Saw a great tip on a different channel. Set your breaker bar to pull up, then use your floor jack to turn it.

[@brucecoleman7412]

I couldn’t really tell from the video if the bolt hole went all of the way through or not. If it does, I would run a same sized tap through the hole and first try the factory bolt. If it torques to spec you are probably good to go. You could also get a longer bolt, torque it to spec, then put a self locking nut on top for insurance. It would be a whole lot cheaper than replacing the knuckle. Apparently it has been running that way for quite some time so I wouldn’t worry too much. Thread locker on the bolt wouldn’t hurt. If it were to fail, It would most likely get noisy before complete failure. If you must replace it, I would recommend aftermarket. As a former part’s manager, I can tell you that not so commonly replaced parts are not commonly manufactured by aftermarket suppliers because they would never be able to recover their tooling costs. Many times I’ve bought aftermarket iron parts that were actually OE parts that were overruns sold to them by the OE manufacturer. They simply grind off the OE logo and call it their own part.