Here's Why I Don't Buy Toyota Branded Parts!!

[@Hidy_Ho]

I'm going to give this channel 1 or 2 more videos before deciding to stay with it or not. I mean the video is titled "Here's Why I Don't Buy Toyota Branded Parts!!" which has nothing to do with the content of the video (which is just a repeat of the last few videos) but will be discussed in the next video!!! He does like to (unnecessarily) stretch out the contents ...

[@jws3925]

That is just one of the reasons I will not watch anymore of his videos

[@kwacz]

yep found other videos that had titles that dont match so I am done since my time is being wasted watching completely unrelated content.

[@BryanTorok]

I came to the comments to say much the same thing. I watched through 19 minutes of video because of the title. I figured the the huge difference in price would have something (or everything) to do with it. On the other hand, there are YT channels that warn against using aftermarket parts for poor quality.

[@devdhamija7585]

I wish i read this before i watched the video. I want my time back!

[@Duskorn]

Don't even give it more videos, Just call it quits now. I am. The content isn't even GOOD if we're being honest. I mean no one, literally NO one will drop what they are doing because a new 1Road video just dropped. He knows his content is bad too, hence why he does the titles like he does

[@cbayless4294]

Well good luck with after market parts hope they last for Ya. 236k on OEM say's it all!!!!

[@phatbaby4234]

Maybe he likes changing parts. Don't mess with a mans hobbies. lol

[@dc6233]

Exactly, I'll pay more for OEM. We have all seen aftermarket parts fail in a very short time, especially the lower ball joints.

@@dc6233 $4000 more (both sides)? Toyota doesn't make the parts anyway, they just put their name on them.

[@ChevyCitation]

Here's Why You Never Mess With Your Factory Toyota Parts!!

[@GrandPrix46]

Keep us updated on how long the Made in Thailand Moog hubs last.

[@55azguy]

I owned an auto repair shop for 40 years, I’ve used Moog parts but there is no way would I ever use Moog bearings. Too many failures. Time to pay a tech , truck and mad customers . That’s a poor business decision. You want to take that chance, it’s not worth it to me.

[@ateam6486]

@@55azguy MOOG did get caught buying cheap Bearings and stamping the MOOG name on them.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

Moog are lower end parts in comparison to oem.

[@CarlosHaeussler]

So what are close or better parts than OEM in your experience ?

[@benchmark3332]

@@CarlosHaeussler No one can match Toyota OEM quality.

[@MrCROBosanceros]

@@benchmark3332 Exactly!

[@eashan5022]

​@@CarlosHaeussler I'm not from the USA but when it comes to Toyota parts no one is better than OEM. There's a japanese company named 555 and they r the closest one when it comes to OEM quality and fitment. Don't know if that brand is available in the USA. They last almost as long as the OEM one with 60% less price.

[@PH020]

The cheapest quality ball joints... do a KZbin search on cutting a moog ball joint to see how it's connected with a plastic washer 😂

[@allmyfriendsaredead3107]

Why do you make a simple part swap seem so complicated? It's like the end of the world when something simple fails smh

[@firstlast---]

Because it makes good content. His videography and editing is top notch

[@Gary_in_NoVA]

I think he did a great job explaining everything. Not too complicated at all.

[@monkkeyboy18]

@@Gary_in_NoVAwould have been easier if he left the hub and dust shield off to get the ball joint remover on and press

[@duncancremin1708]

I think what’s going on is, he’s not a pro mechanic and he’s making content for diy-ers. He’s deliberately dumbing it down, to explain it to people who don’t know what he’s doing or who don’t understand the mechanics involved. Yes, I found it irritating, at times, but if I’d never done this sort of work myself, I think I’d probably appreciate him being so pedantic. I’m also aware that I’m predisposed to irritation because of the strange American words for many of the components, so I’m careful to cut some slack for that.

[@icebreaka1969]

2:00 do not push down on breaker bars when you try so hard to loose a nut, try pulling up instead, pushing down with body weight that can be easier to get hurt if the nut loosen up suddenly, or something break, as a mechanic for over 25 years, I learned in the hard way. always use pull motion, if not enough strength, extend the handle with a pipe, it will work much better and safer.

[@NWGarage]

I heavily agree , I’m always so nerve wracked watching him put so much force on a harbor freight breaker bar that could snap at any moment and hit him lol

[@agentjwa]

Are you sure that's the correct ball joint? I've never seen a ball joint where the snap ring was just hanging out in the air like that. Every single one had it butted right against the face so that the ball joint cannot move at all. The way that one is in there allows it to possibly move like 1/2 inch down if it wants to. Unlikely as it's loaded from the bottom but I'm quite sure that is not the correct part.

[@Charlie-dv7ev]

I've installed literally over 1000 ball joints. That's common with aftermarket ones. The snap ring is only there as backup just in case. It's a heavy press fit. That ball joint isn't moving unless the bore it's pressed into has issues.

[@agentjwa]

@@Charlie-dv7ev it probably won't move because it's loaded in the direction to keep pushing in. I'm guessing it's either the wrong part or it's a part that fits multiple applications and moog is just using it because they can. Either way it's a sloppy way of doing it. Every other setup with a snap ring has like 1/32", if that, of gap.

[@Charlie-dv7ev]

@@agentjwa How many ball joints have you installed? I've been doing this for 28 years. This is what you get with aftermarket ball joints. It is an interference fit. The snap ring is not even needed. It is. there as back just up in case. Many vehicles out there don't even have snap rings. Just press it and forget it.

[@ateam6486]

yeah at 9.06 you see old joint and its correct. That new joint sticking up might hit the CV shaft. This has to be a joke video.

[@Charlie-dv7ev]

@@ateam6486 Not even close. There is plenty of clearance. Seen this exact scenario 100s of times.

[@rpasco9352]

You are seriously in need of a decently powerful impact wrench to get all those large nuts off. That made the job 10 times more difficult that it should have been.

[@ericlapke4872]

Stop putting these inferior parts on this vehicle it’s a crime

[@RickTrajan]

Highly advice getting an electric impact gun - they're fairly affordable (except the battery) and you can decide whatever brand you wanna go in by whatever tools you might need. There are plenty of lighter impacts that pack a punch nowadays (and it doesn't matter what brand anymore).

[@inhocsigno9151]

There are many fake Toyota parts being sold as OEM, but are Chinese knockoff in a fake OEM looking package.. Cheaper, and lower in quality. If the part seller has a Toyota dealership address, I trust the parts as true OEM. Often it is easier just to go to the Toyota dealer and get the part.

[@RYTHMICRIOT]

There are cheap wheel hub/bearings available for purchase on Amazon/eBay which are manufactured in China and they have some people who have shown that the parts have failed while the vehicle was traveling in traffic resulting in the wheel coming off and causing an accident.

[@charlesb4267]

The problem is exacerbated by buying online period .. why I call companies like Amazon "Scamazon" as its far too easy to flog off anything by that method and the counterfeit market has become a HUGE industry because of this non store front type of transaction. Oil and fuel filters are a prime example of knock offs gone wild and the unsuspecting may wipe out their engine or diesel fuel system by using a poorly made knock off.

[@petermark9660]

Yes, for sure. One time I purchased Toyota OEM on Amazon- returned it soon as I saw it. I purchase my parts online at a local Toyota dealership at a very nice discount, I pick up the parts so no shipping costs. The oil filters from Toyota inexpensive.

[@deimosphob]

My local lexus dealership is actually cheaper on parts, usually I just cross-reference parts and input there if its toyota and not lexus. Some things brought down to damn near moog and skp parts prices on dealer discounted parts for legitimate OEM parts. You can also ask at their parts counter for their ebay page, most dealers have one, and you can check for stuff thats very heavily discounted.

[@G-ra-ha-m]

I'd only get Toyota parts from a dealer, or go for a decent aftermarket. Buying 'OEM' parts online is unsafe.

[@rubicon3929]

You have the correct ball joint tool, you just did used the adapter on the tool correctly to remove your lower ball joint off.

[@ppeterson9359]

There are a number of Toyota dealerships that have an online presence offering parts at a significant discount. With all the $ you’re saving doing it yourself, go OEM.

[@YouSpamTard]

It looks to me like he added way to much grease to that lower ball joint. In a short amount of time that ball joint is going to go squeak squeak. I'm a Honda guy, but hands down Toyota suspensions, especially their ball joints and tie rods, are way way better than anything else made. Good luck and God bless.

[@Chorizomicks]

lol he’s obviously sponsored by moog. Guy making a tool out of himself by saying he’d never buy a original part from Toyota but his original ones lasted 236k miles lmao

[@bearing_aficionado]

I make bearings for a living and my company is an OEM supplier of hub bearings for Toyota, Honda, Ford, and Tesla. And is an OEM supplier of transmission and differential bearings for Ford and Honda.

[@briantimberlake3114]

What is the name of this company and bearings, please.

[@bearing_aficionado]

@briantimberlake3114 NSK

[@phatbaby4234]

@@bearing_aficionado Top notch!

[@Chorizomicks]

Bought OEM Upper and Lower control arms left and right for my 07 4R, 1200$ from Serra Toyota during a sale. Installed it myself. Easy peasy

[@CL-yp1bs]

Same, just got the 25% off and free shipping a few days back. Toyota runs them a few times per year. People are fools if they run anything but OEM on critical components on a Toyota. Literally turning one of the most reliable vehicles ever made into junk.

[@Chorizomicks]

@ free ship, no tax

[@jonathanratliff4780]

@@CL-yp1bsyou nailed it…. and it’s not rocket science either

[@TotalWarriorLegends]

​@@CL-yp1bswhich site?

[@CSTLLNS]

Turn the wheel to expose the caliper bolts and its a piece of cake you have all the room in the world.

[@jamram9924]

I just priced upper and lower control arms (bushings and ball joint included) on an 04 4 Runner SR-5 with OEM parts from Japan (Amayama) , they were 50% less than Toyota dealers in my area. I’ve ordered many parts from them and twice I paid a very small customs fee for imported parts directly from Japan. However, I’ve saved thousands of dollars on the last 3 orders. Toyota 4 Runners are well built vehicles, with proper maintenance, they can last decades.

[@LandcruiserHusky]

Same. I get basically all my parts from impex Japan or partsouq in Dubai. Same place often dealers do and then they charge crazy prices. Just got hub assemblies with bearings for $140 usd each from impex Japan. Partsouq for all the other parts for front axle hub full refresh. Control arms also only $140ish for uppers and $200ish for lowers. No reason at all to go aftermarket. My originals have lasted 294k miles over 25 years and going to change out to only originals again on my 1999 Land Cruiser.

[@asadb1990]

Yeah toyota oem parts are readily available online. You just have to find them.

[@bearing_aficionado]

Depends on the Toyota model, I can just walk over to the line and pick the freshest one off the line its being produced on.😂

[@oscarflores9719]

Can I get the website for the parts?

[@jamram9924]

@ it’s described in the post

[@lpad9651]

On a friend's 2004 toyota avalon, OEM struts, sold as individual pieces not as an assembly priced at $2,500. Per location. Each more than the entire vehicle was priced at. Gabriel complete struts cost $99.00. They rode well.

[@rpasco9352]

Show me the web page that claims $2500 per wheel. I simply don't believe that's the going price from any vendor.

[@lpad9651]

@@rpasco9352 FROM THE DEALER. Each component sold separately.

[@rpasco9352]

"The [front right hub] bolts don't have any form of thread locker on them." Then what's all that white stuff painted onto all them ???

[@18avshalom]

In the description of this channel you will find that it says this channel is for entertainment purposes only and not to do what is done in these videos. As an ASE certified Master technician, I completely agree with that.

[@ateam6486]

Did you see that he put in the wrong ball joint. Go to 9.06 to see the old joint. Then his new joint put in and its half inch of splines sticking up. Might have hard time with the axle clearance.

[@bewhiskeredjuarez6851]

My knees hurt watching you work LOL

[@charliedc2A]

I would redo the hood and keep it oe as possible. Keep the whole thing oe as possible. That's just me. It's a very nice Toyota. Nothing wrong with after market good parts. Keep up the good work 👍

[@cryptochronic1]

I would’ve taken the end pipe from the jack to use for extra leverage at the end of the breaker bar.

[@JESSE-de7sx]

Good for you, Toyota parts are not cheap. but if you can find a good quality aftermarket part use it, but when it comes to electrical parts I would definitely go dealership only.

[@AgentLokVokun]

BRB. Going to the dealer to get a 196 bulb. 😂

[@RickTrajan]

Sensors for sure, I'd even go junkyard for things that generally don't go bad/not a common failing part of the paticular vehicle(trans speed sensor).

[@johnfitzgerald5158]

I use a DeWalt battery-powered impact to take off my hub bearing nuts, and mine are on there with 263 ft lbs final torque. It makes quick work of it with the impact action. No bracing required.

[@rpasco9352]

No need to buy a very expensive cordless impact wrench for $$$ unless you are a mechanic or very serious amateur and will have lots of use for it in the future. A decent low cost electric model will do fine without breaking the bank account of a weekend mechanic. Also, just saw a video about the new line of Walmart cordless impact wrench that compare very well to the much more expensive brands' models. This is an eye-opener !

[@johnfitzgerald5158]

@rpasco9352 for less than $300, and it matches the batteries of my other DeWalt equipment, it paid for itself in labor savings in 1 use. And now I know the best parts were used and were installed correctly. When you start breaking breaker bars, and busting your knuckles working on your truck, the logical decision is to get the right piece of equipment for the right job.

[@appleimacdude]

A novice here, but I heard something about having to "center" the steering wheel so it is correct once major front end work has been done - different from alignment, as far as I know.

[@G-ra-ha-m]

Modern cars have steering angle sensors that need resetting too.

[@paulluna8099]

Moog the synthesizer manufacture may have some issue with Moog motor parts.

[@MrDSchroer]

When it comes to the ball joints, you should always go OEM, no matter what. It costs more, but you’re gonna see once your ball joints fail, and tear up all that hard work you just put in. There are countless accounts all over the Internet regarding aftermarket ball joints in Toyotas, failing long before the OEM ball joints do. In most cases, under normal wear and tear, the OEM ball joints have been known to make it at least 200,000 miles. The most common thing that I see and hear regarding aftermarket ball joints(depending on which brand) , you will make it at most 90,000 miles before they fail. When it comes to Toyota ball joints, that is the one Achilles heel and is the one thing that you absolutely do not want to cheap out on. I pray that you don’t end up having your ball joints fail out on you while you’re driving down the road, but you are most certainly taking a huge risk !!

[@CL-yp1bs]

Absolutely, this is borderline harmful information in this video telling people to use aftermarket ball joints.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

Agreed

[@AllEyezOnRod]

Should have sent the Car Care Nut a message for some help

[@charley95sheridan44]

Bingo, Amd is totally legit, I'm a regular customer of his.

[@phatbaby4234]

And watched his video on OEM parts as well. lol

[@BLACKBOX2TURK]

Sometimes aftermarket is better they meet and or exceed OEM as well with warranty.

[@AgentLokVokun]

Warranty is worthless if you need to do the job twice under a year or more.

[@AgentLokVokun]

Warranty is worthless if you have to do the job twice in the same year.

[@rpasco9352]

Choosing aftermarket parts doesn't have to be like "picking a pig in a poke" (getting unknown quality). Do your research ! Amazon is famous for its user reviews - use them. This is why I "believe in Democracy" - a part with 1000+ user reviews will tend to show how good or bad the quality is despite the obvious reviews where the reviewers don't know much about what they are reviewing or are just pissed off because they don't know the right way to install a damage-able part (boots, bearings, etc.).

[@antilogism]

Sometimes they fix OEM defects and/or use better materials but it's hard to be sure in many cases. My personal experience with most chain stores is that all they have is bottom of the barrel at a premium price and a long warranty that only covers a replacement part.

[@jakemason9436]

Thanks Jimmy. Nice CarHt jacket. Do the hood wrap. Curious to see the result.

[@jt4277]

As a former mechanic and a Toyota owner, I would disagree - Toyota parts are legendary for quality, and there is value to keeping everything OEM. I buy my parts from Toyota dealers online to save costs. That said, Moog parts are exceptional quality for aftermarket parts and I used them as replacements on my Chevy truck with great results.

[@rpasco9352]

I can't believe all the replies saying Moog parts have lost quality and have obviously gone down-hill ! Who to believe ?

[@jt4277]

⁠ - I think it depends on what you’re comparing them to. I’ve used their ball joints, tie rod ends, and idler arms, but not bearings. They have a reputation for being better than Chevy or Ford, but I wouldn’t say the same of Toyota. If we’re comparing to other aftermarket parts, they’re very good. For bearings, I’d probably go with Timken and NGK.

[@richardmartinez4145]

​@rpasco9352 FWIU Moog has more than one line. I believe the Pro line is still high quality. That said, I will use Denso and other high-quality manufacturers, but for suspension, I go OEM.

[@gabeesquivelLethalZR1]

Time for a Milwaukee M18 High Torque impact.

[@antoniovelez6102]

You nailed

[@johnfitzgerald5158]

As info, I learned the hard way to buy OEM hub bearing assemblies for my Ram 2500. This was after 2 aftermarket bearings lasted less than a year each. I did a lot of investigation on the interwebs and found that although the aftermarket companies get licensed by the OEM (in my case SKF) to be able to produce knock offs of the original, they often cheap out on important things like materials and bearing seals. Once the seal fails, the bearing fails shortly thereafter. Note that the OEM SKFs cost me twice the amount compared to aftermarket, and they were not as abundant in supply. I don't know if this will be the same case for the Toyota, but I know Moog has lost their once good reputation. I think there are some things you can get away with using aftermarket, and sometimes even improve upon, but never again for me on bearings.

[@CL-yp1bs]

MOOG is often called the "problem creator" in the mechanic world. There is not one brand of aftermarket ball joints or bearings you should EVER use on a Toyota. Its dangerous at worst, a waste of time and money at best. They never last. OEM has very very strict ISO standards they require parts manufacturers to adhere to... aftermarket parts can be from the same company (people think they are getting a deal, newsflash they are not) and oh wow oh wow... the SAME brand parts are trash. Because they dont follow the strict ISO standards that the OEM parts are required to by the manufacturers. Even DENSO AND AISIN, who are both owned by Toyota... make cheaper (albeit still pretty decent) aftermarket parts and fluids that are not oem, and of a lower quality than the OEM Toyota parts made by Denso and Aisin. Keep it easy on yourself, just buy from a dealer, if you want good deals buy online from the dealer, I just got a 25% off coupon from Toyota a few days ago and I bought parts for me and one of my family members.. we got 25% off plus free shipping direct from Toyota dealer online. Cant beat that for good OEM parts, most made in Japan that will last hundreds of thousands of miles. I dont care if MOOG is made in the USA, its Trash and any mechanic worth a damn will tell you that. They USED to be good... been a long time since Moog was worth a damn.

[@robno5223]

I replaced a hub rear hub bearing on a Highlander the Internet said it was a Koyo bearing when I got it apart it was NTN, with the bearing number I can get one for a lot less than the dealer. I don't look at Moog anymore quality is not there. If you think Toyota OEM is expensive try Volvo or Mercedes.

[@wyomikey65]

​@@robno5223NTN is a good brand. They make the timing belt tensioner you find in Aisin timing belt kits.

[@patrickengle9344]

Afermarket parts are disigned for planned obsolescence ie most parts are only designed to last 2 yrs or 50k miles. Most parts had "life time warrantees" when people kept cars for 2 yrs now that people keep cars 7 yrs life time warrantees rarely exist. Some aftermarket are cost justifiable if easily changeable but if expensive to replace such as timing belts, oem parts that last the life of the car are more justifiable than 60k aftermarket junk. Some aftermarket parts ie electrical components may not have the same specifications and are less durable and/or may set codes, misfire, etc. whereas oem parts are less likely to suffer the same problems. Amazon does offer some oem parts at discount prices.

[@cmr2079]

You can get a corded impact that puts out 450ftlbs of torque if you don't have a compressor.

[@SolarMillUSA]

@13:01 it's not the metal shavings that are the worst thing you need to worry about. Whenever you use an abrasive (cutting wheel, sandpaper, grinder, etc) what happens as you use it? It wears down, right? Where does the grit go? Yeah. If that grit is hard enough to cut through hardened steel, you don't want to shower that grit into your bearings, hinges, pivots, ball joints, or painted surfaces. It will continue to cut for a long, long time after it become unattached.

[@Viper34TTV]

I’d lift it and do a interior detail (high quality seat covers, new radio etc) protect the interior for as long as possible

[@bobbysuazjFhvcfgh]

Jimmy’s power tools are still on strike 😂😂

[@FIVEVEEZEE]

I smell Moog sponsorship! You can get Koyo or NSK hubs. They are definitely more than Moog, but screw doing that job again in 50k! Life is too short to be swapping out cheap parts

[@RMartin631]

Did you take the additional length of the crow's foot into account when torquing the bearing assembly?

[@alext8828]

Just did an F3 word-search for anyone using the word "crow's foot". Thank you for catching that. You're probably the only one in the universe with a brain.

[@RMartin631]

@@alext8828, yeah, I'm the guy that people call when they can't find a solution to their problem. I have a small circle of very intelligent friends that are experts in their respective fields. Sometimes they call me and sometimes I call them. Some of the fields are mechanics, biological warfare, telecommunications, financial, and stuff like that.

[@brassmule]

4:52 Precison is the house brand for Oh Oh Oh O'Reilly. Someone probably had work done on that side of the vehicle after the incident that caused the damage to the front bumper, and the shop used crap parts.

[@NWGarage]

That’s their premium line , great quality

[@wolleyreikivalley]

“one thing i can tell right away” is ur axle nut was loose lol

[@RayleighCriterion]

The axle nut comes off easy with an impact gun, I have taken both of mine off this way to replace the wheel hubs. I can also use my steel wheel and remove the nut while the tire is down on the ground giving resistance to turning. I have a DeWalt electric impact and with it's 330 ft/lbs of removal torque is more than sufficient to remove any axle nut.

[@ateam6486]

Did you notice he put in the wrong ball joint. New joint was Much bigger showing about half inch of splines then he put on the retainer clip. At 9.06 you see old joint and no half inch of splines sticking up.

[@jimb4090]

Hey....might be wrong, but.....your original ball joint C clip was resting ON the knuckle. Your NEW ball joint had the circlip waaaaay above the knuckle which later will allow the ball assembly to possibly drop in the knuckle with negative loading. ??????

[@ateam6486]

I wonder if the CV shaft hits it. This has got to be a joke video. No way is this serious.

[@SolarMillUSA]

@2:20 get the milwaukee 18v 1/2" impact. It's a beast and only costs around $130. Plus no cords or compression running in the background. (don't get me wrong, i love my air tools. I have over 25 of them in all kinds)

[@henrythe83rd18]

At 02:02 Was that a chicken casually runnin in the street in the background?!! Awesome!!! LOL

[@thinshavings]

That was improper the way you used the torque wrench to tighten the hub bolts. The crow foot should have been 90 degrees to the wrench NOT straight out from the end.

[@EfficientRVer]

Incorrect. Torque is torque. The orientation of the torque wrench to the square hole receiving the torque in the crow's foot absolutely doesn't matter, except as it changes the force needed on the wrench, due to changing the distance between the end of the wrench, and the axis of the bolt it is turning. I am a mechanical engineer. While it is tempting to think that in addition to the torque applied to the crow's foot, there is the unbalanced force of pushing on the wrench, somehow getting applied to the crow's foot. But that is no different than ANY WRENCH, including torque wrenches. Either they are acting a rigid assembly or not, and in this case it is. If you were right, every wrench in the world would need to be oriented to the car in a particular way, or be L shaped, etc. You'd never be allowed to move a ratchet to a convenient position. In fact, doing what you say just shortens the whole wrench assembly relative to the bolt head, plus changes the force vector on the wrench to not being completely tangential from the bolt, but slightly inward pushing. Both of those things INCREASE the force, plus changes its direction 90 degrees, let's say changing it from being vertically downward (basically counteracted by the jack stand) to being forward (trying to move the car forward off the jack stand).

[@peejayem4700]

@@EfficientRVerI’m not sure I follow there about the rigid assembly. For example when a torque wrench is used and it is held at a point other than the wrench’s handle, say closer to or further away from nut being tightened, the incorrect torque will be applied (won’t it?)

[@orlalara]

Great video, thanks for your suggestions. I need to add something in good faith: you don't simply replace toyota oem bearing parts, less CV AXLES. Toyota sells boot kits for CV AXLES that come with their proper grease. If that driver's cv axle wasn't bad (making sounds when turning) you just needed a boot kit. You can even find remanufactured OEM CV AXLES from companies like detroit axle. Wheel hubs? go OEM. I don't even know how a toyota wheel hub could go bad but thanks for the video.

[@67syncmaster]

Did you consider repairing the threads on the driver's side knuckle with a heli-coil repair kit and replacing the bolts from Toyota?

[@timsexton]

1:50 >>> Here's a tip. Take the half of the jack handle (that is removable), put it on the end of your breaker bar, and use it to extend your breaker bar for easier CV axle nut removal. *_1992 Toyota Celica Turbo All-trac_* *_2008 Toyota Tundra 4.7L 4x4_* *_TRUST !!_*

[@NWGarage]

Precision hubs are great ! Have used them always for my customers for years , pretty much never had to replace one yet , ever

[@ex8280]

Have umbrella coverage for that vehicle, when that ball joint gives, all hell is about to break lose at 10mph.

[@jonallen1985]

Another great video Jimmy

[@duncancremin1708]

On larger vehicles such as that, I’d always use 3/4” drive tools. The square on a 1/2” breaker bar can do amazing things, but when it fails it’s possible to hurt yourself, if you’re jumping on a cheater bar like that. The small number of tools you actually need, would not break the bank, if bought individually.

[@1RoadGarage]

I need to get 3/4” drive for sure. 👍

[@oldguy2082]

I'm sorry, but inmo,Moog isn't what it once was in terms of quality. Front hubs from NTN are excellent ( imho match or exceed OEM standards and i only have to install them one time) and cost more than twice most of units on EBay or Amazon. What's your time and effort worth?

[@texZR2]

Good stuff Jimmy!

[@larryfritz9459]

I use the impact to loosen the axel nut and the wheel nuts before lifting the car. If you're going to do your own maintenance, buy a good impact, air hammer and compressor. The savings in time and labor will pay for them quickly.

[@surferofnh]

Knuckle from used OEM is better?

[@Aldarris]

Moog used to be okay but now they've moved onto cheaper manufacturers. Better off with Sankei 555.

[@supercleaner]

1991 Toyota pickup - 2WD SR5. I used ginuine parts as long as possible. But eventually, all manufacturers discontinue many parts so you have no choice but use aftermarket or salvage. I totally agree that certain parts, like a knock sensor, is best OEM. I tried several parts claiming to be OEM quality, but ended up paying the price demanded by Toyota. The new knock sensor and wire has been working for 10 years and hasn't thrown a code. Anyone with a V6 or V8 engine should not wash their engine if the knock sensor in located in the base of the "V" between the cylinder banks because water will eventually kill the knock sensor. My biggest problem has been finding parts designated for the SR5 because these trucks can't be found in salvage yards and many special parts are no longer made by toyota or aftermarket suppliers. It's a big disappointment if you want to keep a special vehicle beyond 20 years. Thanks for your informative video. It's great for beginners and DIYers like me who maintain their own vehicles.

[@johnmartin2079]

For information you should put a drop of oil on the dry antiseize what will activate it for final torque.

[@antilogism]

On 7:17, torqueSetting = TorqueSpec * Length/(Length + Offset). I use a tape measure to get (L+O) to the crowfoot's center in one shot if it's not set at 90 deg (where error is tiny). Also, bear in mind that this isn't perfect since the Length is to the centerpoint of where your hand is. Probably videos on this.

[@williamlo2976]

I understand about using some aftermarket parts. I just replaced front lower control arms, struts, rear shocks and converted rear air suspension ti spring on my GX470 (basically a fancy 4th gen 4Runner) using OEM parts would have been thousands as well, especially if I would've kept air spring and adjustable shocks. I used KYB and the rear adjustable also stamped KYB and I spent less than $100 for both rear shocks.

[@G-ra-ha-m]

The jackstand gives far better torque to the socket as it converts the downward force into turning force. Bear in mind some of these hubs nuts are supposed to be 'loose', but probably not of 4WD Toyotas. If you don't know the hisytory of the strut bearings on top of the front struts it's worth regreasing them.

[@johnhow3624]

Hi Jimmy might be a good idea to paint the dust shields mine rotted off so l left them off didn't notice any difference !

[@RandomName27264]

That jack handle makes a great breaker bar extension.

[@ateam6486]

SSHHHH dont go trying to educate these fools and this guy making a joke video.

[@egx161]

Aftermarket parts are cheap for a reason. They're inferior and not made to exacting specs? Toyota makes quality parts. Hope it works out for you. And why didn't you replace the ball joint when you had the WB off?

[@fortis619]

SKF wheel hubs are pretty good too

[@socalpaul487]

I don't know what air compressor you have, but you should get rid of that coil air hose and use either 3/8" or even better, 1/2" Flexzilla hose with the correct high flow fittings.

[@a_singh96]

I would love to see you put new speakers in the 4runner and some LED bulbs just like you did on your Chevy

[@riceburner4747]

Dumb question. What's that tool end you used to put your torque wrench on? 👍🇺🇸

[@YouSpamTard]

crows foot.

[@georgeryan7615]

Do an exhaust upgrade you will love it I did on my 2010 v6 tacoma

[@amazoidal]

My battery 1/2 inch Ryobi impact wrench easily rips off 185 ft lb axle nuts on a FWD Bolt. Your breaker bar is on the small side. You could use a hollow jack handle as an "extension".

[@wm437]

Aftermarket is always more expensive in the long run. You have to buy it again and again then pay again and again. OEM buy once pay once. I learned that the hard way.

[@Theywereright24-7]

It appeared that the ball joint was pressed in too far. The snap ring should ride flush with the surface. Or, the part is not made correctly. Which, with aftermarket parts, is not uncommon.

[@wyomikey65]

Yeah, I noticed that too.

[@rpasco9352]

That 3/4 moon shape sheet metal piece is a SPLASH SHIELD, not a dust shield. There is no need to deflect dust, very unlike water.

[@manuelaguirre1062]

I put Moog wheel bearing (front passenger side) and the ABS dash light came on. The wheel sensor was slightly off and I had to pay for labor twice. It was my fault since I provided the part. Lesson learned. It depends on the part, but its OEM for me.

[@timmononen8492]

I agree to an extent. I go aftermarket on certain parts to save money but they are non consequential parts. I learned recently to go with only oem toyota wheel bearing assemblies. First I bought a koyo rear axle bearing for my tundra and the magnetic race was faulty and the abs signal was not registering. After trying to diagnose what went wrong, I ended up removing the koyo and putting in an oem toyota bearing. Problem solved. I burned about 200$ on getting a machine shop to press the bearings. Lesson learned.

[@mikeburnett7028]

That ball joint is too tall for that installation. There is too much gap between the spring clip and ball joint. These are the wrong ball joints.

[@ateam6486]

I think it will hit the CV shaft. This must be a joke video.

[@chadwickwicky67]

Vital parts, 100% oem saves you $ in long run but these parts, I can agree if you need to save cash and you’re a diy’er you’re not risking as much as you can do change the parts yourself if need be and a lot of times to push their product they have really good warranties. However say a starter , especially on this model, power steering pump, steering rack and similar . Oem for sure, even for 1/3 of price, if you have to replace any of those with the labor involved, Oem will pay itself off. Keep in mind, a lot of the stuff being changed was oem & 236k miles and 19 odd years of use. Most aftermarket parts will probably give you 1/4 of that and not out of the ordinary to even get doa parts as well as failures within months, weeks and even days. OEM parts (Toyota and Honda anyway for sure) that just doesn’t happen unless it’s install error. Awesome vids and explanation helping da o get is out! Caught my eye for some reason as I have the exact same model down to the year and it’s a keeper until the wheels fall off 🤙🤙 By the way preventative maintenance wise, the exhaust manifolds are prone to go around the mileage you’re at now, Thorley headers are sweet with the 4.7! and normally are 2-3 month back ordered! I had to wait 4 months! So may not be a bad idea to get some on order so when one goes you’re not forced to buy oem ones at something like $800 per side! If you don’t already have , I’d say do a bigger trans cooler and a trans temp gauge or an UltraGauge or Scangauge 2 to keep an eye on trans temps to prolong the life of it…. with proper monitoring etc I’m hoping to get 500k + miles which there are so many out there with 500-600k +!!

[@rvborgh]

Get one of the new M12 stubby impact wrenches. Made short work of the axle nut on the Toyota.

[@TradeWorks_Construction]

15:17 Is it just me or does that seal in your hands look awfully similar in size, shape & construction to the “unknown” seal - @ TimeMarker 5:58 - that came w/ the MOOG Hub Assembly. I know you mentioned something along the lines of that seal not fitting on the CV side so if it really wasn’t identical to the “National Seal (Part#: 710573)” then I would be dumbstruck unable to think what MOOG wants users to do with it.

[@dc6233]

When it comes to the lower ball joints, I will only use Toyota OEM. They are known to fail and the aftermarket ones just don't last very long.

[@Bbtaco-w9j]

I tried MOOG parts on a Tacoma once. Never again. They did not hold up. I only use Toyota OEM. Some online Toyota dealers sell parts at a decent discount. Your impact wrench must be really weak. Mine zips the CV axle nuts off with ease.

[@Sci-Mon1]

Yep. You have to do a lot of pricing around but you can eventually find a dealership online that sells parts at a reasonable price. For instance I found a dealership online that sells the pink coolant for $12/gallon instead of the $30+ that most do.

[@ateam6486]

MOOG got caught years ago buying cheap bearings and then stamping their name on it.

[@herbward5240]

I would suggest one gets a set of six point box wrenches .

[@sakabatanuki9744]

your vehicle was in accident on left front side .

[@a-maize-nacres5090]

You need some nut busting torque Milwaukee impact tools to save your back 😅.

[@rayrayrun]

It take awhile of body pain to realize power tools weights more than gold.

[@midiman5045]

There are Toyota OEM parts from online resellers like Rock Auto. Never go to a stealer ship they mark up the prices way to much,. Also you can call out of state Toyota dealers, The resale price is set from the dealership not Toyota corp. So many will sell at a reasonable price while other will stick it to you. Also there are just certain parts like the ones you replaced that are worth the extra money to be OEM.

[@als7594]

Like other comments there is a lot of difference between OEM and aftermarket. I've used both on my 2010 Toyota and found the higher quality, higher priced aftermarket to have similar quality. Let me explain if I'm buying say a hub unit and the dealer wants $355 and I can get hubs between $60 and say $220 aftermarket I'm buying the $150-$220 dollar units. The better aftermarket units are manufactured in Japan and the $120 and cheaper units are made in Taiwan and China. If you think the OEM's are actually better wise up they're not. By 60K miles I had to replace all four original hubs with Toyota OEM units. At 120K I have replaced two Toyota OEM units already. The two new hubs are Beck/Arnley units, who is also a Toyota OEM parts supplier. They cost me $325 verses $548.50 for OEM units with a Toyota 28% discount for ordering online and picking them up from the dealer. Walk in off the street price would have been $760 with sales tax. BTW my local mechanic charged me $120 to install them. Local dealer charges $200 per side. That's a big difference in cost.

[@stevec5657]

Please don't wrap the hood or roof, just have them re-painted to match the rest of the vehicle. Thanks for the ongoing 4Runner video series 👍

[@RoyFJ65]

Toyota OEM or their original Japanese source like Denso, AISIN are the best replacement ever, even for non Toyota vehicles.

[@joselozano0528]

I have that style of ball joint press works great, I have the add on kit as well.

[@dario2713]

5:54 ,bro the seal for the cv joint was already with the hub hahahahaha!!!!!!!

[@brassmule]

11:48 You need a larger ball joint press - get an 11-12 inch press, problem solved. No need to cut off ball joint studs get it to fit.

[@vincentgotter4669]

Putting that jack handle that was right behind you when you were leaning on that breaker bar. Next time just slipped that over the end of that breaker bar. I use mine that way all the time little extra leverage.

[@johnkaranja2897]

I have 3 Toyotas,with a total of 950000 miles: Camry 342000, Avalon with 322000, and sienna with 280000+. I use oem because nothing can last the ride and match the ride quality, reliability , and longevity. Moog is waaaybelow oem for Toyota.