You will never see me at a stealership. Computer parts I will go to junk yards like pull apart and search everywhere first. Ebay is still great.

I use RockAuto for almost everything. Some NAPA and Autozone and Ebay also.

Sea foam is awesome.

I've compressed a few coils now and never felt uncomfortable about doing the job once.

$611 for a cv axle !?!? Yikes

Put a set of Cardone HDs in my 4runner. Inner boots were gone on both sides in a year. Never again.... Stock truck not lifted.

If you decide to go ahead and flush the cooling system in one of these 4.2L vehicles. Make sure you follow the refill procedure(exactly). So you don't get an air pocket(s) in the head. These engines are kinda prone to dropping valve seats. If you happen to get an air pocket in the head,it can,& probably will cause a hot spot. If it gets too hot, the valve seat (steel insert) can fall out and cause catastrophic engine damage. If that happens, you might as well plan on buying a different vehicle. It will cost more to repair than the vehicle is worth. If you don't have the repair manual or you really don't know what you're doing. It might be a good idea to just take it in. I'm just saying this because my neice's boyfriend blew up her engine recently attempting this repair on her Trailblazer LT 4.2L. Actually, he's her ex-boyfriend now. And she borrowing one of my vehicles at the moment. I'm only here to research,maybe trying to repair her engine, but it's not looking good. It's probably cheaper for her to just buy another vehicle. She really can't afford that. I'm probably gonna end up gifting the Cherokee to her for Christmas.

I did my grandfathers trick I use regular Turtle wax is my car 50 years later. I’m still using my contacts last for a year

I agree with you, get what you can with what you have! I have an 07 FJ and I will try and use OEM parts when it is feasible, but sometimes you have to go after market. My CV boots are a good example, driver side boot ripped and dumped grease everywhere. I had Toyota dealership install a new one. a few months later the passenger side started going, but because it was so much I had another shop do it for half the price. It really depends on what it is or how much it is. I prefer Toyota parts, but some aftermarket parts are necessary from a financial standpoint. I use Rock Auto and Toyota Parts Deal for a lot of my parts. I also try to check with other dealerships around the country to see if they have a sale on parts with free shipping (rare, but it happens). It is surprising to me if I order a part online from one of the two local dealerships it is cheaper than going straight to the dealerships. I would love to have all OEM parts, but sometimes I just can't do it. Like someone else said. sensors and electronics, got to go OEM and Hope not to get a fake in a Toyota box. I bought an MAF sensor to have an extra on hand, got it from Amazon, but it threw a code the moment after I installed it. I put the old one back on reset codes and nothing, lesson learned, I will pay the extra money and get it from the dealership or a genuine Toyota parts dealer. Keep doing what you are doing. Get YOUR Yota on the road the way you need to and can afford to.

Dude this happened to me and it was the most stressful nightmare. It happened for my transmission lines on my 89 Camaro. I got a new radiator and the lines didn’t fit into the radiator so I had to add a transmission oil cooler with hoses connected to the lines. Worked like a charm lmao

Just repaint the hood and roof

another great video. btw, you should keep your hair (mustache) exactly how it is now. looks way better. cheers.

I stopped using them about 4 years ago when I got more than a few that were the wrong size for the holes they were going into, they were sloppy loose and I ended up going with Import Direct. They (moog) messed up bad some years back and I'll never use them again.

i just clean my cv jpoints and put in new grease

Ahh yes...another asshole blinding the fux out of everyone. Hey, as long as i can see better.

Hands down for me, you made the right move with the aftermarket parts. If you were looking at $500 aftermarket vs $800 factory, then I might go factory! Also I would take into consideration the age of the vehicle as well.

wow synthetic oil for break in, no, you WANT the engine to wear during break in

Buddy and I did this a few weeks ago. The spring is dangerous, not the tool. We learned what to do via other youtubers. We took our time and were very careful. We used the impact wrench as well.

oh god, Never hit the rotor on the part that the brake pads are touching, you are very likely to ruin your rotor... hit the part where the studs are while NOT hitting a stud.... i know its a pain but... at least you wont ruin your rotor... ive seen some rotor split apart at the joint from where the pads touch to where it flares out from someone hitting the wider area...

Seafoam is just Isopropyl Alcohol.

usually i keep the castle nut on the spindle loose before hammering it the uca free.

I'm with you Jimmy. I've been in the automotive field for over 55 years and I always use after market, name brand, parts. Unless they are not available. I learned that the after market parts are actually made better. Remember the OEM is only concerned with you keeping your vehicle for 3, 4, or 5 years, so thats the mind set they use when they spec their components.

I added some in my fuel when I bought my caravan cause the mileage was terrible. It literally doubled afterwards. After driving it a couple years it sucks again. May need to buy more.

You could have had the genuine Toyota steering knuckle new for two hundred and something dollars. Just need to learn how to shop smarter.

For hard parts like the knuckle, I would go to wrecking yard and yank out a genuine Toyota used part.

There's a point of diminished returns. I bought a project car, 2003 Camry, with 280K miles and lot of problems. I used aftermarket parts for it because it's not worth it to pay $800 for suspension parts alone when I only paid $950 for the whole car. $150 set will do just fine. However, I only use OEM electronic parts, sensors and such, or at least Denso brand.

I once had mine on bricks and one brick shattered and dropped on me literally pressing on my forehead how I was not crushed !!Had to get someone to Jack the car up, you learn by your mistakes thing you know everything!’

The biggest mistake of all was removing the hub to install the dust shield and then cut to the wheel being installed. My heart is still hurting from not having the closure of seeing the dust shield finally installed. You monster! 🤣

Is a limited slip additive ever needed on a 4Runner? Do any have LSD? ALSO..is 75W-90 GL-5 also ok to use?

Been buying aftermarket parts all my life. I will NEVER pay the extremely expensive price for a part that just has the factory's name stamped on it. Buy what you can afford, not what someone else says.

1:50 >>> Here's a tip. Take the half of the jack handle (that is removable), put it on the end of your breaker bar, and use it to extend your breaker bar for easier CV axle nut removal. *_1992 Toyota Celica Turbo All-trac_* *_2008 Toyota Tundra 4.7L 4x4_* *_TRUST !!_*

I would do 80 foot pounds with lock tight but you found the right torque. Good deal good look out.

Last time this happened, I just sold the truck lol.

I'm with Jimmy, i would love to use OEM on every part of my 2011 RAV4 but that is not possible and worth it.

Scotch Brite wizzy wheel is the way to go for taking off gaskets.

There was no need to pull the cover. Just pull the drain plug, wipe the metal off the magnet. Put the drain plug back in and fill it up. Done.

good job

You may want to shift your oil choice to valvoline restore and protect. A whole lotta people have had great results from older vehicles. I just started using it in my 19 f-150 5.0l. For the oil filter pre fill, check out the motor oil geeks you tube channel. He has a dedicated video to that. Seems like a solid recommendation.

That happened to me a lot in my 97 wow but different issues and same

I bought an Autozone clutch master cylinder for my 1994 Toyota. Original Toyota lasted until 2018, 22 years. AutoZone lasted 5 years. Lifetime warranty, so I got a replacement. That replacement was faulty right off the bat, so got another. That one lasted 6 months and started leaking again. I said Fk it. Just installed an Aisin (Toyota group) part I bought from Rockauto. Time and risk of cancer from the brake fluid is just not worth buying anything but brand name parts. It doesn't have to be Toyota OEM but get a good branded part.

Great job I needed your knowledge from your experience thank you 10 Star

I had a minivan.. I thought the engine was shot.. had a tow truck.. take it to a mechanic… wow he just added sea foam to the oil…. Completely fixed!!!

Wow you're a JOKER promoting DANGEROUS MOOG GARBAGE. WHY ARE YOU CLAIMING TO KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT YOTAS WHEN YOU'RE BREAKING THE FIRST CARDINAL RULE OF TOYOTA MAINTENANCE - TOYOTAS SPIT OUT CHEAP AFTERMARKET PARTS FAST. They are the WEAK LINK just like the 🤡🔧 in this video 🖕

You should have bought a Toyota or one from whoever makes the ones for Toyota.

Just letting you know what I have learned with my first Toyota. Toyota uses aftermarket parts as OEM. For example. Aisin makes many engine parts as well as most transmissions for Toyota. Advics is Aisin's brake division which makes brake pads, rotors, and calipers for Toyota. And then there's Denso which makes the majority of parts for Toyota. Some suspension parts are KYB.

looking forward to seeing the follow up video after having the new oil. thx

I haven’t read directions in 56 years, and I ain’t starting now.

what a great straight forward direct video. Great directions

Thought was going to show a super secret lol buying new battery solve the problem. Lol

funny I have 100ft of this stuff just laying around got it for like $5