SOLVE A LOW VOLTAGE ISSUE!

My Electric Fans: amzn.to/2rRCirz
My Alternator: amzn.to/2tppfzG
In this video I attempt to solve a low voltage issue I'm having in my 1995 GMC Suburban 5.7L. I recently installed Flex-A-Lite dual electric fans in place of my stock clutch fan and they work great but I'm now having a low voltage issue while idling at a stoplight. I've also upgraded my stock 105 amp alternator to a Powermaster 140 amp.
Please comment if you have any input to this issue!
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon affiliate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon Affiliate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places.

[@ceesteven]

Hope you solved your question by now. All the tips you’re receiving each have merit. Please know, while alternators do charge at idle speed, they do not put out max at that time. Alternators are made and set for different applications. With those dual AC systems, there is excessive taxing on the battery voltage but that doesn’t necessarily mean the battery is bad. There should be an idle stop solenoid that is activated to increase idle speed when the AC compressor kicks on and then when you turn the engine off, the solenoid is no longer energized to prevent the higher idle causing run on. If you don’t have a properly adjusted idle stop solenoid in place, I would install one and adjust it accordingly. Raise the idle ever so slightly to find a decent engine RPM to help with the low speed charging. Also, check with alternator rebuilders to see about using an ambulance alternator and or getting a smaller alternator pully. For your fuse popping issue, make sure the fuse is rated for the current draw of those rad cooling fans. The fuse is working properly because it opens. Excessive resistance can also cause this or possibly just an under rated fuse for the particular circuit. Check the wire size as this can be a factor. Keep in mind, you are taxing the charging circuit at low idle speed with all those accessories on while idling and the DRL’s on. Personally, I don’t think you will fully resolve this without major changes however, it’s something you may be able to live with after a few tweaks as mentioned. Hope it helps.

[@javaman2883]

The battery is only used for starting the engine, and running some loads with the engine off. When the engine is running, the alternator should be powering ALL electronics. The stock alternator 80-100 amp, was designed to power all loads that were stock in the truck, plus like 10-15 percent reserve. You added 40 amps worth of draw with those fans. The 10 percent reserve is only 8 amps. You need to upgrade the alternator, one with about 40-60 amps MORE THAN THE STOCK alternator.

[@shahrozalijafri8816]

If the battery is weak or bad the voltage would get low

[@vicentehurtado4927]

You could just add some relays that are supplying 80 amp of current for each fan since he installed dual fans. Could this idea help.

[@dan9132]

Cool story. Should he run his engine full speed all the time too to keep the alternator running at rated current? I guess the guys in spl competitions with 120,000 watts of amplifiers must have 10,000 amp alternators.

[@VeraVoxel]

@@dan9132 see my idea is it doesn’t really have so much to do with the alternator, but more with the fact that the alternator literally runs off a pulley spun by the engines pulley. Wouldn’t the engine need to run out of higher RPM constantly just to supply enough energy?

[@chrissimmons4455]

I have a 99 Tahoe with the same fans. With the factory alternator mine did the same thing. I switched to a 140a alternator off of a 2004 Tahoe and fixed all my problems.

[@ljgarrison6910]

I an purchasing a Suburban soon, so I have subbed to this channel. I like your information, your stories and I hope my Suburban becomes my family hauler.

[@s2kto2K]

From everything I see your entire electrical system works just fine since the alternator is putting out enough current to charge the battery as well as keep up with your electrical load. But when your in drive and stoping your alternator just isn't spinning fast enough. I would upgrade to a smaller pulley on your alternator like you mention in your "welding wire video." A dual battery will just give you a little bit more time to sit in drive at idle. It won't fix the issue. It's a bandaid solution rather than a permanent fix. Best of luck.

[@vincemason8196]

It may be about time to do a BIG 3 wiring upgrade.That will help the electricity flow much better. Also check out your engine and other ground straps to make sure they are not worn.

[@AnchorRage1]

vince mason I second this. easy, cheap and usually will help any modified eletrical system (especially us guys with amps and kickers). or in this case those big fans drawing a lot of juice. worst case? you spent aabout $6 in wires and had absolutely no improvement.

[@vincemason8196]

Antony youtueb Exactly ! I had a similar problem and just upgrading the alternator wire made a difference...which prompted me to do the rest.

[@AnchorRage1]

vince mason for me, the grounding helped out alot. i had my front headlight flicker when the music kicked, of course after I put on the alternator wire and then I reset my ecu. started her up, let her sit for 30 minutes, the car runs great and even idles better too (with the amps kicking) and no flicker.

[@gatorsworld]

That alternator is charging but not enough for your draw....Get a big ass alternator and your problem is solved....CHEERS

[@javiertrujillo8607]

vince mason, i ave the same problem. Its not the alternator. I wish i could tell u what it is. But sorry i cant. Im also looking for answers. Ive had the problem for 2 years without an a/c. Thats not all. My truck sometimes wont start after turning it off and will only start after jump starting it, waiting until it decides to start, or sometimes by running a wire from the + side of the battery to the lower left 30 amp circuit breaker fuse. So if u figure it out? Please contact me. If i figure it out, i will definately let u know.

[@BIGMAN8435]

Its the alternator.Bought a power master alternator years ago that was supposed to be 200 amps.When I had jt checked it was only doing 80 amps.

[@bshoke]

Overdrive pulley for the alternator at idle you only have a fraction of the 140 amps the alternator can put out, in addition heavier 2/0awg cables all the way around.

[@geraldmeshey6628]

It's all your ground connections. Battery to body body to frame there are a Lot of them. The thing most people don't think about just because you have a good power source there has to be a good ground source to complete the circuit.

[@juniorcasique3099]

1 Road I'd really like to see an upgraded video to this problem doing a good job on the videos bigger alternator for sure

[@paolomartini150]

Some times alternators right out of the box do not work. You must verify the amperage output of it. Also you may have a parasitic draw somewhere but I am leaning more on the alternator. Also check your connections and voltage drop on your cables.

[@jamest4363]

Yes you have an issue but it's with your alternator. Upgrade the amp output of the alternator to increase the amount of amperage going to the batteries. You need more amp output,period. Buy a high amp alternator. The dual electric fans can pull close to 60 amps by themselves. A second battery can be a help but it will probably require a 200 amp alternator to run everything. Also the ground wire needs to be bigger and that's because current runs from the ground back to the battery. Strange right? Buy yourself a ground strap kit and add more ground straps and use a bigger wire on the ground side. The ground wire upgrade is probably going to be the cheapest theory to try first. Also because you have a 140 amp alternator already then you should make sure that the power wire running from the alternator to the battery is large enough to supply 140 amps to the battery. Each wire size is rated to handle a certain amount of output.

[@PaulRevere130am]

One of two remedy's 160 am alt or change your alt pulley to a size smaller which is the less expensive way to go. Personally I beleave is the best way to go as well. Smaller pully more rpms = more current! Your welcome! IV had to do this mod myself and it works like a dream

[@blakebrass125]

Smaller pulley = smaller belt = more amps on rotations. I like the way you think. I gotta try this out also. Did you ever make a vid of this mod?

[@damackay75]

Clean/replace ground straps from battery to body/engine block. Replace alternator pulley with a slightly smaller pulley ("overdrive pulley"). Will turn alternator faster when at idle. Those big engines don't turn fast even on the freeway. Dual batteries might be easy in your vehicle - many midel years have a location ready to accept an auxiliary battery tray! But it won't solve your current problem.

[@rocklow243]

I have a 1993 gmc 1500 with the 5.7. Which is the same set up you've got just a couple years older. My truck does the same thing. When I have my sub, cruise control, a/c, lights on. My truck drops down like 2 volts on the gauge there. But Ive had this for about over year if not longer and never gave me a issue. It starts up and runs every time for me. Im sure getting a new alternator will help with that. But for me my is still running so I don't complain.

[@flipztuh24]

Have you check your alternator belt and tensioner? If either one is bad it won't provide you the necessary voltage u should have.

[@Alphasmsn]

The solution is to check how much current is the two fans drawing with an ammeter. If it is drawing 10 amps or more then that is too much for the alternator. Either you install the thermostat to control the fans or switch off one fan. Then the alternature will produce enough current to power one fan and the other electronics.

[@theoracle88]

Deduce: great video. Clear. Concise. Articulate. Fella's flexin' lexicon...

[@THISLOVETHISHATE99]

the battery charges at 13.5 and above once the voltage goes at 12 volts then ur truck is only running on the alternator most a/c systems ive come across automatically raises the idle to compensate for the a/c pump so u dont stall just like how the power steering auto raises the idle when in use

[@asafajaz7839]

Dual alternator may a option, but I would go firstly with a couple of AGM battery in the back or in front were every you can find space, plus definitely upgrade on the positive and negative cables

[@BigQue1000]

On a more serious note, check the continuous power wire (orange or red) for your A/C control panel located in the dash. The wiring port tends to go bad. While it still may work, it's 3 connector on the back of the panel. The middle port connects to to the fan speed control. Check the orange continuous power supply for any loose fitting or signs of arking. Had similar issues w/ my 2000 Escalade. GM issues. Hope this helps... Just realized this was an old video after all this advice... Smh

[@V22D]

What was the problem, im having the same issue

[@xLegendary4Life]

Ground with bigger gauge wire on the battery to chassis and on the engine to chassis ground. Also use a better battery like optima yellow top or any other battery made for accessories. Use good LEDs on your old lights inside and outside.

[@masterdebater8757]

Optima batteries arent as good as they once was. Led's headlights consume the same power as halogen. His issue is wire sizing did you see the tiny wires from that battery? The fans arent temp controlled and the AC compressor could also be getting old. If you noticed his engine temp with both AC's on and everything running for a while way to cool which causes bad fuel mileage the engine needs to be around the 210mark when warmed up. The fans are wired to come on with AC which is good but i think he only needs 1 fan on high with AC on and the other to be engine coolant temp controlled this would put him a lot closer to optimal engine temp and reduce the amp draw of fans.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

If the battery was bad it could have caused this condition. I did a new battery on a 1994 Mustang when small loads dropped voltage significantly. It helped a lot, but testing the battery would have ruled this out more easily and a better or newer alternator could have been the answer faster. You could also voltage drop test the wires in the system to see if you were losing power anywhere.

[@Hectorson3]

Some kind of a connection issue, I had that happen to my 1993 Cheyenne, come to find out the batter lugs were stripped and needed to be replaced. Soon as I changed out the lugs big differnence

[@westonhorne]

1. Buy a battery with dual mounts. You can buy terminals for the top mounts for accessories. 2. Check your grounds. Use a multimeter and check your ohms from your engine to your battery. Make sure your fans are grounded properly. There are ground connections to the frame under your driver door. Check to make sure they are 0 ohms wire to frame. 3. Your alternator can't keep up. Get a higher amp alternator ASAP. It should be at 14v at idle so it definitely is an issue without checking anything above. I would check the above first before dropping money on an alternator. It is pretty obvious though. Cheap alternators don't produce the amps at low RPM's. That's what's happening when you put it in gear and sit at a stoplight. Higher quality alternators produce great quality power at idle and sit at 14v minimum.

[@gotlotsodirt9968]

You need to consider a higher amp alternator. My stock 98 c1500 is equipped with a 105 amp alternator. There is also 120 and 140 alternators available. Cost is around 140 and below. I run a massive stereo system and an auxiliary fuel transfer pump for my heavy equipment. I can run the stereo really loud and pump fuel without my alternator gauge even moving. Doing this will save you money and unneeded weight. As well as extra maintenance. Hope this will solve your issue.

[@ernesttrader7364]

Check your grounds and upgrade your cables

[@madcook1936]

I just purchased my father in law's 1999 gmc Yukon and with 260 000 miles on it he just had a major over haul done it but he said the truck was to big and to old for him so I said I will take and will I have it now. I selling my 2000 jeep cherokee in order to make room in my yard for it which I don't mind a bit. I have been watching a lot of your videos starting with the exhaust video and just jumping around from there. you have a new subscriber in me. keep up the awesome videos and I will keep watching and learning.

[@1RoadGarage]

+The Beige Wonder Thank you so much for watching. I'm doing my best with these vids. Glad you like!

[@TheTferrer]

The alternator is not keeping up with the demand of all the electrical components in the vehicle (new fans). There are two options for solving the problem. 1. Replace the alternator with a larger 140 amps 2. Replace the alternator with a 250 amps. Had this issues before until the 140 amps got replaced with a 250 amps. It runs great without amperage issues.

[@dgraci]

The Volt regulator of the alternator is not calculated to handle the draw of the dual fans. Nothing is wrong with the alternator, but the regulator maybe getting interrupted by insufficient grounding between the fan and it. So when the extra load is drawing from the positive, the negative is failing to return the amount.

[@jezzie1965]

Heavier gauge wire from alternator to battery the big three I also have a older chevy suburban began to have the same issue voltage drop at idle almost in the red my HIDs flickering upgraded to the big 3 problem solved

[@edgarheredia2690]

What do you mean by the big 3? Ground wires?

[@2jz4life35]

@@edgarheredia2690 yes

[@romerosdetailingandpowerwa5777]

Hi there check your connections upgrade all your lights on the vehicle to Leds.to maintain efficency. check if you got a small pullieon the alternator.thats the one you want if it has a bigger pullie at high speeds will work but on low speed it wont charge well. you could add a 2 gauge wire from the alternator to the batterry. and make sure that you have a battery with high reserve capacity like 900 cranking amps and about 190 reserve capacity amps should do the trick remember you just added a monster fan kit that its sucking all the amps on that alternator another thing you said something important its very hot where you live a alternator when it get hot it looses capacity so if it was 140 when hot it will drop dramaticly Ive my self would put a 200amp alternator to have some room .second baterry is nice but check before spending your money wisely good luck.

[@MrRoy-rb1je]

1. Alternator charge should show at least 14.02 at Battery with accessories on. 2. Ground/Negative cable needs to be replaced. Solid Neg connections is crucial to frame and to body. 3. Positive cable Down to Starter Needs to be replaced. They get cooked over time and causes voltage drops. 4. Generally try to avoid any adapters, spacers,washers between battery cables and battery posts. Straight battery cable to battery post is best. 5. Just a suggestion, can original fan be replaced/returned and upgrade to Heavy Duty Fan Clutch and add some Red Line Wetter water to coolant. 6. Electrical fans are fine but can cause all kinds of issues. Summary: Get that Original Mechanical fan back in. Upgrade to Heavy Duty Fan Clutch. Power wash and clean with Simple green your AC condenser and radiator core. Add red Line Wetter water. Back on the road nice and cool. Extra Bonus: Go With Original Mechanical fan W Heavy Duty Fan Clutch and add a Single Small [ 8-10 inch]Auxiliary Cooling fan in front of Radiator. They are reversible so make into a Air pusher...lower electrical load on Charging system!

[@Dpcx11]

false ,, he said he checked the voltage from the back of the alternator and it was 13 volts

[@1RoadGarage]

Mr. Roy That is a lot of great info. Thanks. I'm considering putting the original fan back in and doing s smaller pusher as you said. We'll see what this summer brings...

[@tomherbst6815]

I had a very similar problem,,changed alternator, and batteries,,no main help,,read this blog On Posting set,,and figured the advice about getting good grounds was likely most true for me,,as I n my experience, one time I moved the negative battery wire to the engine,,and the voltage came up to about 14.5 volts from the alternator..so I figured this was my best clue.. So replaced the big cable from positive battery to starter with # 2 wire,,and the negative to engine with #2 wire,, This seems to have solved the main problem. Reference to Mr.Ron and similar comments..

[@tomherbst6815]

Story, I meant Mr.Roy, and all similar .You helped me fix my problem.

[@Friedrich-Wilhelm-1980]

@@Dpcx11 voltage is not the issue that just is a quick way to determine is your battery is storying adequate amp hours 13 volts means he is at about 80% battery storage now way back in the 80s-90s most your stock alternators were about 30-50 amps charging now if he is blowing a 40 amp fuse he is pulling more than 40 amps from the battery that means he is not making adequate power he should have at least a 100 amp alternator installed i mean 1st you have the huge duel fans drawing 35-55 amps + you have the A/C running and presumably listening to music plus the ignition system all that puts you well over that 50 amp range and the typical a car battery holds 40 Ah and would be drained in quick order

[@juliomurillo1543]

Your battery it's just the storage for your energy your power comes from your alternator you need a bigger amp alternator

[@qjuanwhite8285]

Your alternator not keeping up it should be able to run your car as well as charge your battery. You need to upgrade your alternator to a high output alt

[@michaelcallaway6962]

Wrong. It could be bad wiring or ground issues, which would cause even the best alternator to produce a low voltage output.

[@frankgar4560]

@@michaelcallaway6962 thanks for letting him know I was about to say the same have the highest output alternator you can get for these trucks and it still wont keep charge

[@frankgar4560]

@Edie Beacon what does my nephew gaming have to do with anything you dipshit?

[@pablocastillo9040]

I have a Honda Civic 2003 lx I had to replace the computer and I had to install a use computer for the car, now when I’m drive the voltage come down and the battery light comes on, but in parking the light doesn’t come, the alternator is new but still , I don’t know ??

[@frankgar4560]

@@pablocastillo9040 you probably Have a loose ground or exposed wire touching the frame causing a short or your starter finnaly kicked the bucket

[@dfbb810]

Big 3 for sure... we have a 96. Same problem. It was the power cable from the alternator to the battery. We swapped it out for a bigger gauge wire. Did the trick

[@mrm3686]

Upgrade the alternator buddy The magnet in the alternator is already giving out because when car is running it suppose to maintain 14.5V and I recommend 160 or 180Amp Alternator

[@kerrygreenidge6572]

You need to put a relay on each fan

[@drg993]

Had the same problem with my '95 GMC, 5.7L pickup, 195k miles. Just today, I replaced the alternator with the standard 105amp unit, gauge did rise somewhat, but not a lot. But an accessory volt meter, plugged into the cigarette lighter showed the low charge rate at 13.6v and a high of 13.9v. I think perhaps the internals of the OEM gauge are becoming fatigued and not showing correctly. Ahh well, as long as she starts and doesn't strand me...

[@blakebrass125]

Yes this is exactly what I was thinking. I'm thinking it was the gauge cluster that is faulty. Does this on my 93 Chevy as well.

[@AP9311]

I have '99 GMC Suburban with exact same issue. I solved the problem by putting double ground in. I put two gage cabling set up. Also I put dual batteries with 1000 cold cranking amps. New alt with higher amps (250 amps) and put a battery isolator on it. Even with my dual fan, subs and amp, a.c on, it doesn't drop ever while it's at 14.2 volts. That's how I did it.

[@RafaelCampos-sq8xj]

Josh Benney where you put the ground from

[@jaypalermo608]

Josh Benney bullshit lol I done had a shit ton of trucks and none of the grounds ever gave me an issue. I’m having the same issue and I changed all my wires and it flows better but the issue is the same but the older trucks like that tend to have a 105 amp alternator while newer cars like 2010 Tahoe’s or suburban that come with fans from factory comes with a 135

[@RafaelCampos-sq8xj]

living in a desert i changed the the whole dash gauges it worked,probably some powerlines were burned buy it worked it

[@fullpeladas]

@@Devo1987 it joins the battery's when car on & charges them . then separate the batts when car off that way it doesn't drain the batterys when off. But keep in mind you need a hi output alternator to charge both batt. Hi output alternator neams more amperage alternator if your stock alternator is 140 you replace it woth a 240 amperage they also cost more hope that helps

[@aaronpowell4885]

Those 140 amp remans are rated at or above 3000 crank rpm's it's nearly impossible to get more than 70 amps at idle once warmed up with the cs130. You can install an ad244 for a 99-04 Silverado with heavy duty charging option, they put out well over 100 amps at idle. You'll need to slightly enlarge one hole on the accessory bracket, get a pigtail to match the newer style plug on alternator, get a longer belt and at minimum run a 4 awg charge wire from your new alt to battery. Did that plus big 3 on my 90 Silverado with dual electric fans, 3000 watt sound system and 600 watts of auxiliary lights and have had zero voltage issues. Hope this helps.

[@Mumbles19852007]

I have a 2000 Chevy Puck up, C2500 with the 5.7L in it. I already upgraded to a 140 amp alt in it. Only thing left is doing the big 3 upgrade.I have the original fan new fan clutch. 10,000 LB gvwr.

[@Muffins77]

Two fans will use a lot of power. Try using one of the fans and see how things go. Most cars with dual fans have one for use while A/C is on, and the other for overheating.

[@Shadows42069]

I know this video is old but an average alternator runs about 14 volts anything lower to be considered as bad or you have a bad ground or parasitic draw

[@BestVideosToWatchTV]

That was awesome answer!

[@KevBehindACamera]

I went to a mechanic to do a diagnostic on my car because my RPMs are too low. They checked everything and they said there was nothing bad enough to trigger a check engine light and nothing bad enough with a new what to replace. If the RPMs are too low when I'm in drive. The car almost wants to stall but the voltage drops below 12 as well. If I can't manage to bring the RPMs up can't I get a more powerful alternator? Could that help at all

[@giovannibarbagallo7723]

@@KevBehindACamera i have almost the same problem, its probably a bad ground conection, follow the ground from your battery to where it goes and clean all the connections, maybe they are rusty, i will do it too in the following days 😁

[@DJR5280]

Do you guys know why when I roll up both windows and they're fully raised and I'm still holding the button do I get major flickering lights and voltage drop for a second or two? 05 Tahoe 5.3L. Just changed the hood to firewall ground and firewall to engine ground last night. Cleaned up both grounds on backside of engine and made no difference. Truck also seems a little sluggish

[@Mikethakidd887]

@@KevBehindACamera I had that same problem on one of my cars in the past… i believe it was the alternator alternator

[@johnnyg.2468]

Hey Jimmy I have a white 97 Yukon, so I watch quite a few of your videos it helps me out with mine, just installed new pads and rotors. You could be a huge help on a few things I need to get done, if that’s ok. I seen a few of your videos of you driving, do you possibly live in Southern Highlands?! Looks so familiar cause that where I am!

[@JamesRazorbacks]

Also you may wanna check the ground to those new fans!! I’ve seen a lot of vehicles where there is little or no ground to the front part of the vehicle like radiator area!! Make sure it’s making complete circuit from fire wall to fenders to hood all the way to the front of the vehicle!!! If those all checkout alternator weak, I wouldn’t do duel setup since your factory wires and components are setup for single battery, may run into a lot of problems

[@thekingofktownsixni]

Check the ground wire from the battery to the engine block it might have a bad ground and then it's a smaller black wire coming off the battery to that might be needing sandpaper clean off and ground

[@seandesantos655]

Keep it up bro!.I was once had these problems. Just sharing my story and hoping it will help you. Thank you Sir!...

[@thinshadow6669]

Reason for why the fan fuse burned is because the fans require a certain amount of watts to run and will have to pull more amps if the voltage begins to drop. Higher voltage means it will pull less amps to get the required power. Lower voltage on battery than on alternator usually means there's bad power and/or ground wires. Big three upgrade really helps

[@craigroznowsky1028]

I’m not sure if you have this figured out yet or if anyone suggested it, but do you have the fans wired correctly? Only one should come on for engine temperature, the other fan should only come on for AC , therefore you wouldn’t be drawing as much power and doubling the batteries would definitely be a plus! When AC is turned on it should trigger relay to power second fan! Those fans are usually powerful enough to only have one running at a time! That’s how most vehicles are wired from factory.

[@timothyblaze4556]

For sure for sure.... do a bigger HIGH OUTPUT ALTERNATOR!!!! AND A bug three/4 upgrade... I had the same issue and just doing the big three help it tremendously...

[@onewheelup]

do they still make those bigger pulleys for alts,make it turn faster,i have a 95 Z71 and ive had two batteries and i have a 140 map alt,but i have a low volt problem sometimes theres a phrase its called voltage stollen or something like that,theres a video on here where you do tests and check all your fuses to see where your volts are being stollen,i need to do this myself,good luck,well hell its been a year,nope two its 2019 now did you fix it dude,let us know

[@WeekendWarrior604]

Is there an update to this? Thanks!

[@CarlosRivera-mine]

Dual battery setup up vid would be awesome!

[@pipelinecowboy]

I know this od is old but I did the same on a 66 ford custom 500 upgraded to hei distributor, 8 mm spark plug wires , electric fans , double din pioneer nav unit , 800 watt amp & 4 tens , new 97 chevy alternator did away with the ford alternator, was getting crappy output , doubled my batteries with 2 800 ca's . Now she is 100 percent! Currently doing the big 3 wiring to get the rest of her potential. Oh and i also changed all the lights to Led and that in it self helped a lot !

[@DCBDesigns]

throw a better ground from battery ground to Chasis Frame sanded down to bare metal and a a bolt and lock nut. if anything, run a higher amp alternator. 180a-240a

[@dfish3585]

Does a high output alternator affect anything. Where does the extra power go? Maybe a stupid questions but I have a 1998 chevy tahoe 5.7 vortec and stock output is 105 I believe

[@BrownFella]

@@dfish3585 usually a high output alternator will still only deliver the charge necessary for the battery. It shouldn't overcharge anywhere unless the pcm isn't plugged into the back of the alternator. The pcm gives instructions to disperse amperage as necessary. Same job as an external voltage regulator.

[@alfredocantu16]

you may want to try a diferent pulley setup, a bigger main or a smaller alternator pulley

[@harpyegle767]

just check the alternator as well, if its connections and pulley attached are tight and correct and also test its connections with a tester too.

[@arabcampers9554]

My name is Jimmy and i have a problem 😂 . well Jimmy we like your problems because you help people out when you talk about it and solve it . good job my friend you are the best soon you will became gmc/chevy suburban fixing guide .keep it up thanks man

[@catdakman1273]

U need a higher Amp alternator for the high load. Stock is 105 AMP. Plus a Dual battery set-up will help also, Like an Ambulance has.

[@TheLionsView]

Do a voltage drop test on both battery cables. And the one coming from the alternator. You might have some higher resistance on one of the cables.

[@CaptLeeRApture]

Same problem I'm looking at the grounds usually do cause this sort of problem haven't found the right one yet

[@Onewithsausage]

I noticed the same issue on my 2012 Avalanche this weekend. Meter indicates just above 14v, but after an hour or so of freeway driving, the meter drops dramatically down to or below 12v. Guessing its the alternator myself.

[@tabaccopuro]

Once you solve "the mystery" please make an update video. You have me intrigued.

[@mekepnava4114]

Yes please do. I have the same issue.

[@matrixownz]

I had this in my cavalier soon as u rev it goes back to 14 volts it was a ground issue I know its an old video but might help someone

[@jakecorso921]

Is it just the ground from the alternator

[@matrixownz]

@@jakecorso921 yes but also check frame grounds there in a tight spot beside the driver side headlight

[@MinhPham-pm8vk]

Did you finally get it fix and how? Thanks for your video.

[@vangsta17]

Its the fans. Too much power being drawn from the battery. Either use a higher output alternator or those yellow cap batteries for car audios. That should do the trick.

[@UR6]

1.check your electrical ground points. 2.check your drive belt and missed out drive pulleys 3.may needed upgrade positive electrical wiring from alternator to the battery . 4.Adding more electrical grounding points ( 1.From battery to the body , 2.From battery to the engine block , etc...) 5. Check for any lossen from alternator wiring and make sure it's clean . The goal is to make your car more accessible to the modren cars that works with electrical cooling fans

[@1RoadGarage]

+TOYOTA POWER Okay, you and nearly everyone else are telling me pretty much the same thing. So, I guess I need to start by checking my wiring. Thanks for the help!

[@UR6]

you're welcome brother

[@iiatargetanalyst3046]

Check serpentine belt check tensioner pully they eventually wear out which cause belt to loosen or even slip which in turn cause alternator not 'put out' as it should. Check all pulleys may as well. If pully wobble or feels loose barring inside pully prob warn needs replacing. Also pullys can be off of alignment which will cause belt to wiggle or shimmy (this cause resistance) failing or failed tensioner is usual suspect if hear noise. Spray water on belt check see if water knocks out noise or you may hear bearing inside pully grinding barring is bad

[@I.MESSAGE]

My truck is doing exact same thing that’s why I looked up videos with a similar issue and I found your video so I was hoping you tell me what could it be

[@anonymousinc6330]

Batteries usually don't drop voltage unless they are cold. I've seen GM alternators crack the stud for the battery lead. Would cause a bad connection, and therefore, inconsistent voltage. Sometimes this does not happen until everything gets good and warm from expansion. You might also try using what is called a "Lightning Cap" on your fan relay circuit. These are supercapacitors used to prevent voltage sags with high power car stereos.

[@HypocriticYT]

My car when hot occasionally stalls and voltage gauge drops to 12 in the red zone. Happens when coming to a stop, higher mileage 2002 Camaro

[@anonymousinc6330]

@@HypocriticYT A few things come to mind here. Underdrive pulleys for alternator and water pump were (still are?) popular mods to reduce accessory drag, so a previous owner may have installed underdrive pulleys, which combined with a malfunctioning Idle Air Control Valve, could be allowing idle RPM to drop too low to maintain sufficient alternator RPM and drop voltage, especially with the additional RPM drag and amperage load of air-conditioning. Coil packs / DIS ignition module could also be flaking slightly enough to reduce power at idle, resulting in a lower idle. Could also be the cracked exciter stud I mentioned previously. The throttle body / intake manifold could also need cleaning, as MPFI / TPI / GDI all allow gunk and carbon to accumulate in the intake, choking off airflow, which will affect power and idle RPM. Dirty fuel injectors could also contribute to low idle. Modern OBD systems are quite sensitive to voltage sags, so anything causing a sudden voltage drop could cause a stall as you're experiencing.

[@HypocriticYT]

@@anonymousinc6330 it's all original and I recently replaced the air idle valve and the MAP sensor (scanner found it). It idles fine at about 600 rpm. Happens when A/C is off since I rarely use that anyways. Cracked stud seems more likely since the problem is intermittent and only occurs when hot. Tomorrow I'm changing the alternator as it has over 200K miles on it so it cannot hurt to do it.

[@DeLorean-pf5go]

I just put these monster fans on my 1992 Chevy k3500 dually 7.4L and I have a optima yellow top battery and 200 amp alternator and zero gauge battery cables and have ground straps every where. Need to check what that alternator is putting out at idle.

[@1RoadGarage]

+DeLorean3794 And you don't have this issue at all? My alternator is listed in the description of the video. It's a brand new unit by PowerMaster. 140amp! Should be plenty. I believe it puts out 100 amps at idle.

[@robbyota5598]

1 Road , You need to have a higher amperage. Your current alternator is not enough to support your vehicle. Either pick up a new alternator with a higher output at idle or change the pulley on your alternator to a smaller one. Your vehicle probly draws about 75 to 100 amps with all its accessories on, and not to mention the two new cooling fans you added probly about 60 to 80 additional amps on top of that. So 135 to180 plus amps and about another 30% to be safe. Rounding up you need about a 260 amp alternator at idle. I would pick up a 300 amp alternator from mechman, probably there elite series. I believe at idle they put out about 200 amps. They also build custom alternators in house. However the price of this might be overly expensive and at this point It might be cheaper to run a dual alternator setup.

[@robbyota5598]

@living in a desert , I was watching this channel because I have a 94 Chevy suburban and like his videos. I also had to upgrade my alternator. I went with just one, I probly would have been better off just running dual alternators and there's already provisions to add in a 2nd battery Box, Also for the price I paid for the upgraded alternator, I could of probly of got away with just two stock alternators and had some extra cash leftover in my pocket. I was just curious to see what he did and how the fans turned out I'm thinking about Installing electric fans myself.

[@eleanorecopet4090]

@@robbyota5598 Electric fans are just a waist of good money because the hp gain is triply lost because of overload put on alternator plus loosing hp because of alternator load !!

[@REM44MAG]

2:30 your battery does not provide power to the vehicle once the engine is started, your alternator does. Your alternator charges your battery. However, if your battery is dead it can actually become a load on your alternator. Your alternator provides 14v while the battery is 12.5 volts, your system voltage settles to around 13.5 volts.

[@GetDieselNutrition]

His battery has enough volts to start the car but it’s too low when combined w the alternator. Some cars can start with a battery at 10.5 volts but that’s not enough combined while the car is on. He should have checked the battery volts in this video

[@thatguy_jose]

Like you did the big three which is a bonus. you need a much larger alternator maybe like 180 or 200 amp. The truck should run at 14.6v roughly. anything below 12 volts, the truck will run bad.

[@juanmorales4989]

Alternator upgrade higher amp plus check cables for corrosion I did my alt to battery with new cable ends and cable to fuse box also new cable terminal.

[@ksingh631]

I've had brand new alternator fail on first day after install. So It is a possibility.

[@williamdavis1867]

I just had 2 from autozone fail only pushing 12.39v under load voltage regulator failed both times . Didnt even get to drive it . It failed on the spot both times

[@BACKFIREFUR]

May want to have the alternator checked. If it's dropping that far with the heavy amp alt than something is wrong with it.

[@davvila2244]

You need a dual alternator kit,I did mine for lights and sound system and two 16in fans,Two 200 amp alternators two oltima batteries and no problems.

[@martinamarie9924]

This happened to me and I thought my battery was dying also. Bought a new battery and still a problem. Went to 140 amp alternator and it did better, and then alternator gave out!!! But I think it is the alternator. Beef the alternator up and make the gauge of the wire bigger. I think a second battery will overwork the alternator even more. I think we both need a 200-300 amp alternator.

[@MajikalCowpoke]

I'm going to be installing these fans on my 92 k3500, I'll be using dual batteries, with an even higher amp alternator than you did. you should invest invest in a stronger battery, also the reason it's worse in drive and stopped is the huge draw incandescent bulbs make, invest in led replacements You need to use a battery with higher Amp Hr capacity, the optima yellowtop is a good reference for what you're looking for, if you can afford it that's what I'd buy.

[@bigdogwdc]

He already replaced everything with LEDs, see the video list. :-)

[@MajikalCowpoke]

David Chenault did he mention that he swapped the head turn and tails? All i saw was the interior lighting video.

[@bigdogwdc]

You're right, I didn't pick up that you were referring to the exterior lights. Good call, that would certainly help things also.

[@johnnyyates9548]

Wrong you can add as many batteries but it wont matter if the alternator does not do rated output which with these(ebay) alternators they do not. For all high output alternator needs contact either irragi alternator, singer alternator, or ohio generator all reputable names whos alternators do the power what they claim.

[@Ottonic6]

AGREED!

[@THISLOVETHISHATE99]

and the alternator cant put out as much power as it should at low rpm so raising the idle will help alot since the alternator cant charge at low rpm

[@1RoadGarage]

+Jimmydean hilltow I've been wondering if I had a low idle rpm issue. Mine seems to be at about 650 while stopped and in drive. Is that low? Maybe that's my issue right there. Not enough rpms while at idle... Maybe check my idle air control valve? Thanks!

[@MrRoy-rb1je]

Mr. Jimmy The idle seems spot on. That is precisely where my idle is at on my 96 Suburban LT. A quick remove and clean of idle air control valve is easy to do if needed.

[@robbyota5598]

That's exactly the problem the alternator cannot put out enough current at idle. Do not raise the idle of the car that will lead to other problems. simply get a smaller alternator pulley, that will raise the RPM'S at idle. Or you can always upgrade to a higher output alternator at idle.

[@THISLOVETHISHATE99]

if the big three upgrade doesn't help try finding a 140 amp alt that has a smaller pulley on it so it can output more power at lower rpm

[@DanMcD80]

i put a 140Amp alt in my 97 K2500 p/u and solved your issue that I had as well

[@bryan6036]

A deep cycle battery may do better with the demand of the fans!

[@DeathInANuse]

Alternator produces your electricity while the engine is running. The battery is just for cranking the engine. You can either just replace the alternator, or look for a high output alternator to meet demands. An aging alternator will see less and less electrical production. RPMs also play into it, the lower the RPM the less the alternator is turning. So your idle control could play into it. Popping the fuse could just be a result of unstable voltage. The extra battery isn't going to help. If you aren't producing the electricity, you have to solve that problem instead of patching up the symptoms. I'm wondering if a capacitor to the fans could help, but that could be tricky. It will give a buffer between the alt and the power hog fans, reducing volt spikes. Just some ideas to think about.

[@1RoadGarage]

+DeathInANoose A cap is not a bad idea. I'm gonna look into that. Here's a question, is my volt meter reading the battery voltage or the alternator output or somehow both?

[@DeathInANuse]

While running I'd say it should showing what your alternator is producing, probably what it's producing over what it takes to run the electronics in the vehicle, so more electrical load, less extra juice, meter drops, and then something has to give. Since you changed the battery, that's not the issue. Something I learned with an amplifier hooked straight to the battery is that the voltage spikes will wear your alt out. Same will apply to the fans kicking on suddenly, the cap might help with that.

[@robbyota5598]

A capacitor is not the solution. Your alternator should put out about 30% above the total amount of amperage you need to make up for the added surge whenever you turn on a heavy load. Or an additional battery to supply temporary current flow for the demand. This is why you do not see capacitor anymore in high end stereo competitions, they normally run multiple alternators and batteries.

[@billdougan4022]

You might want to get the alternator that the police vehicles use. They have a heavy duty - high performance one for all the electronic computers, lights and cooling system.

[@repeatagain1789]

they also have dual batterys in all of them

[@Olive1234hero]

I have a 1999 suburban same set up plus an electric water pump from summit just added a 175 alternator and it fixed the problem i also put monster cables on the battery

[@tomjanssen9635]

Need a higher amp alternator

[@THISLOVETHISHATE99]

the fuse popped because as the voltage goes down the amperage goes up so fuses popped because of the increase current

[@jamesbannister0218]

Jimmydean hilltow which fuse

[@Zeppelinlv2007]

James Bannister III The fuse he talked about in the video. It's the fuse that goes from the positive side of the battery to his new radiator fan setup.

[@franklinbalbuena7813]

The fuse busted when its hits a ground. I.e. when the neg toucher the pos.it will blown totally

[@kd7cwg]

Check the 10 Gauge wire that goes from the alternator to the battery. Mine gets so hot you cannot even touch it. I will be replacing it with a heavier gauge. The hotter it gets out the lower the voltage goes . (Heat increases resistance) . Also planning on upgrading to a 145A alternator from a 99-05 truck. (OEM is 105A)

[@greenagerenovations5211]

You should check voltage at + cable points if they are all the same great if not clean all points to make great contact, also make sure all ground contact is okay also if there is still a problem -think you should get a higher amprage alternator.

[@hiromiya3365]

I think it might be the alternator, try read about on a high output alternator.

[@paedahe4975]

Add a 40 ferad inline car stereo capicitator off eBay. It is a energy bank that install by the battery for high draw electronics. They are life savers.

[@bobbyramirez9838]

@ 9oopooopopolopopo0plppppop0oppppoplopo0p90ooppoooooplllopopopololloollllll

[@doubleq1223]

ITS ONLY GOT 66000 miles!!! That's incredible (at least at the time of recording)

[@SWTWHITEGSR]

When people run audio system some people upgrade the alternator to higher amperage. Good video.

[@roncreach753]

I run dual battery's. Also upgraded to a CS-144 alternator

[@therandomguy4821]

Meacham 240 alt. 2 d3400 xs power batteries and the Big 3 upgrade. You will never have another voltage problem I can promise that

[@PaulRevere130am]

Gm alts should show a voltage of 14.25 when charging if it don't change the alt

[@ednixon9680]

check for a short

[@carloscoy6635]

Yup i put a 3g wire + n - n my stock 90 camaro volt is in the middle it use to be exactly like this truck

[@AlbertoXP35]

hey man great content. i think you need to double check those fans 'cuz it seems that they are not running normal if they pop a fuse. i really think the fans are just too demanding for the application. and have the alternator checked too. maybe is faulty ( cant handle the load)

[@1-Six-dee]

Go on Amazon and get u a 250 amp alternator by lactrical I use them for car audio they put out good power ur battery is good for some capacity of reserve but u r draining your battery reserve and ur alternator can't keep up u have the 105 amp alternator and it isn't able to handle the load or if I have money buy a mechman alternator

[@la_gallada_ruiz9818]

Hey I put a CAR AUDIO on my truck I even got a BIG CAPACITOR & OPTIMA BATTERY YELLOW TOP thinking it would fix the problem but it didn't still keeps going low WHAT SHOULD I DO ? I even bought a new alternator thinking it was that still didn't help

[@jamest.5001]

no dual battery! just get a higher output alternator. the battery will just ease the problem. and shorten batt life. it could be the regulator in the alternator. may be going. but it is the alternator. hope you fix the issue. if you add a battery . then you will have two dead batteries! good luck..

[@1marcelfilms]

alternator for sure. on my swift aka geo metro has a very weak 45a alternator from the factory and running lights on and ac will drop the voltage to below 13v. The alternator was weak and the battery was small and over 5 years old. replaced the alternator for 50a hella one and the battery a bosch s4002 its been good since.

[@zuko5760]

my bonny has a couple of voltage resistors mounted with fans which stay on while air is on , from factory like that , like the old dodge ballast resistors