Regulated Voltage Control | PCM Controlled Charging System | AnthonyJ350

www.motor.com/magazine-summar...
In this video we go over Regulated Voltage Control/ ECM Controlled/ PCM Controlled charging systems, typically found in many post 2000 GM vehicles. There are other manufacturers that use a logic system to change voltage output of the alternator depending on conditions but we are focusing on General Motors.
We discuss you components to the system and different charging modes you may encounter on your daily commute.
#RVC #MechMan #RegulatedVoltageControl
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About AnthonyJ350
I am a Mobile Electronics Certified Professional 12 Volt Installer (MECP Certified), Business Management Graduate (KPU), with a Professional Driver's License and a genuine automotive enthusiast who loves working on vehicles and I want to share my experiences with you. The goal is to help other people who can hopefully learn from my unique outlook towards vehicles, experiences and working practices.
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Regulated Voltage Control | PCM Controlled Charging System | AnthonyJ350
• Regulated Voltage Cont...
ANTHONYJ350
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[@AnthonyJ350]

If anyone wants to read the article in more detail about these systems: www.motor.com/magazine-summary/are-you-smarter-than-a-smart-charging-system/

[@emilxert]

AnthonyJ350 hey again! Sorry for the off topic, Hey again! I’m trying to reach out to you on your latest KZbin video and here hoping you could save me once again My 350z 2004’s stayed unused around 20 days under temperature ranging from 10 to -2*C since the last ignition I tried to start it yesterday and today, but the battery seems to have died even though it’s 6 months old A shop nearby used an amplifier to keep the battery running, but we couldn’t start the car, though fuel pump seems to work properly, as everything else I’m thinking it’s Alarm/NATS because the red light above the wheel is constant when the key is in ON mode, when it’s in ACC, the light is flashing Could you confirm that when the red light is constant in ON mode, the car will never start. Or would it stay constantly red in ON mode because it’s usually so? Thank you greatly for any reply, I’m quite desperate right now

[@Catholic1391]

I just bought a 2013 chevy Tahoe LTZ. I ran a 0 gauge ground from battery to fender and another 0 gauge to the alternator bracket. I also ran two 0 gauge positive to the rear for a 2nd battery. I was looking at the factory ground to the engine block that had that sensor. That ground engine block wire look big enough look like almost 0 gauge but I think it's 2 gauge. Will it's be ok to run it like that, I have factory alternator. Will upgrade to mechman later.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@Catholic1391 Main thing is to monitor voltage and see if it charges and goes through the modes like factory

[@Catholic1391]

@@AnthonyJ350 Ok I keep an eye on it's am still waiting on wire harness for Pioneer radio hooking it up to a Orion HCCA 3000.1 that amplifier has three positive and three negative connection.

[@robtemple3445]

I tried to post a relevant video from Remy Power Products, & it seems you blocked me??? Or did you?

[@michaelhamm6207]

Thank you!!! I couldn't muddle through the Motor article because of the way it was written and I've been trying to figure out how this whole bit works for years. You just gave the best explanation, no "extras" just to count words and with examples of what you're saying.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad you liked the video!

[@kingTiwana]

Really detailed video, thanks for this!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad you liked it!

[@DM-qp7do]

DUDE!!! THANK YOU!!!! I've been chasing bad grounds, testing alternator and battery. Im getting a low voltage code on my o2 sensors and I didn't know if the two were related. Now I know they're not. My 05 GMC is my baby and im so happy I watched this. I do still have a battery light, but these years GMCs and Chevs are notorious for instument cluster problems.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I'm glad the video helped you! I have a bunch of videos for these trucks. This one might help you kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@DM-qp7do]

@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks bro I'll watch it tomorrow after work. Im gonna subscribe! Thank you SO MUCH

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@DM-qp7do Thanks for subscribing!

[@miguevalen8683]

Well my voltage goes up and down and my battery expanded but I don't get battery light on on my cluster. Could it be the voltage regulator?

[@jewllake]

Very informative video! I remember my 04 GMC did not have this amp clamp. 1st time I saw it was on my 06 Monte Carlo and GMC. I think they started this in 05 when they went to the dual electric fans. Now all GM cars have this feature.

[@AnthonyJ350]

The crappy thing is the newer vehicle clamps are so small you can't add a ground wire, you can only replace.

[@OP-ik7qb]

Thank you for this information. I was looking for it

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped!

[@mongowantsitall]

So extremely helpful ! Thank you !

[@AnthonyJ350]

You're welcome! Happy to hear the video helped you!

[@MrSmellGud]

Very informative. Thanks! 👍🏾

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching 😀

[@Stonermoore]

Great video! Fixed all of the problems I was having, just by running the grounds through that stupid sensor! Thanks again for your video!

[@AnthonyJ350]

So glad to hear the video helped you! 🙂

[@travis8210]

Thanks for the video. I bought a 2015 Sierra Denali 2 days ago and put on close to 400 miles yesterday. All interstate miles. And about 3/4 the way to my destination I noticed my voltage was reading in the 13 range. I was a little worried. But the rain stopped and my lights went off. On the return trip my lights came on about 1/2 home and it went back up to 14 again. This was interesting to learn about.

[@AnthonyJ350]

At least you know it's normal

[@kennycollazo6103]

@traviz no shit I got a 2012 sierra on Saturday, put 500 miles on it, and then noticed it went to like 12/13 and then back to 14. Crazy

[@frankjrlauritano336]

Hmm

[@georgej2807]

Well done and very informative.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thank you!

[@chillinrodzilla]

Real car audio mad scientist ish man i love it keep it going its old head car audio enthusiasts don't know what to do with all these new sensors and things thanks a ton mane

[@AnthonyJ350]

Appreciate it!

[@Jonnydeerhunter]

Very helpful! Thank you. While I was driving it dropped down and I was concerned. While watching this video it actually came back up to "normal" appreciate the info!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped you! If you're concerned, turn on the headlights and it should go up to 14.5 (it takes a little bit for it to kick up).

[@Jonnydeerhunter]

@@AnthonyJ350 yep I did while I was driving. It didn't go all the way up but I'm going to put a meter on it. I have a feeling the factory gauge is reading a little low.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@Jonnydeerhunter Let us know what you find

[@Jonnydeerhunter]

@@AnthonyJ350 Sure thing

[@mikeruizxd5534]

Thanks! Great video man! 👍

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad you liked it!

[@72mdk83]

Great video. Very informative. I have a 08 suburban LT. Been having some weird electrical issues. Started with locks clicking up and down and speedo and tach going crazy. Other messages on DIC like stabilitrack. Replaced alternator and everything seemed fine. Then started having an issue where I'd park the truck and turn off. Come back out to start up and nothing happens. No key fab unlock, no lights on dash when I put key into ignition. Truck wouldn't turn over or anything. I'd jump it and it would turn on. So after all this I replaced the alternator and battery. Not the top of the line battery and 160 amp new alternator. Had the same thing happen, voltage dropped real low, parked it and turned it off and had nothing when I tried to start it. Called AAA and by the time the tow truck got there, about an hour, I tried starting it and it started up. I exchanged the alternator again and so far it's been ok. I do watch the dash more carefully. It does fluctuate but seems to run real similar to your video. The lowest voltage I'd see was around 13.2 volts. I left a multimeter hooked up and turned the truck off and saw voltage go down to about 12.79 volts and stayed there. Started the truck and it went to about 14.78. Crossing my fingers! I love my grocery getter.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching! You might find this video helpful as well kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@GrimmReapa]

That's the problem I've been having with my 2011 CTS with a Mechman 240 amp alt. I have a 4000 RMS amp on 2 -12'" and 1200 RMS 4 ch amp when I start jamming certain songs like the song named Previously by PAYROLL GIOVANNI&CARDO the alt starts to ramp up to 15.7+ the service power steering and traction control message pop up but it's fine after it goes back below 15.7 volts. I bought an SMD VM-1 and connected the ground and constant directly to the sub amp to get a more accurate reading. All this time I thought something was wrong with the alternator so I need an external RVC. Thanks for making this video.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad to hear you figured out your charging system!

[@hangingwitthabrowns]

Wheee did you get it from?

[@dougowens2686]

Great detail thank you .

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad you liked it

[@stevefournier9743]

I got a 2019 Chevy Cruze RS 1.4 turbo engine and It does the same thing !! 12.5 volts with day lights on and climbs to 13.6 with night lights on !! When I un plug the wire from ecm battery lights comes on but 13.6 steady!! Thanks for the video it reassures me ! I was about to change everything 😊

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad the video helped you out!

[@Bige4u]

Finaly... the information i've been lQQking for, i just picked up a used 2005 GMC Sierra 1500(single cab/shortbed/4.3L v6/automatic/181k original miles), my first truck ever, it has the same guage cluster shown in this video, and im from the USA btw. Just after starting the truck, the factory voltmeter guage would be at 14v, then after driving around for around for a few minutes, the voltmeter would start to go downwards, showing less voltage, and this is during daylight hours, but when its dark out, like heading off to work in the early morning, the voltmeter guage stays at a constant 14v like normal. Now knowing what GM has installed on most of its newer vehicles, the clamp meter on the negative cable side of the battery, this all makes sense to me because of its design, i have a brand new battery thats within 2weeks old, it starts up fine, and honestly, i was ready to pull the alternator out to have it checked, now i see i dont have too, everything appears a-ok. FYI, i happen to have a "ScanGuage" device that you can mount on the dash, by velcro, in front of the factory guage cluster, or elsewhere if you prefer, and it connects directly to the OBDII port, you can check all sorts of vital information with it that the PCM sees. I set the scanguage device to the voltmeter function and watch it as im driving, after starting the vehicle, the display shows 14.4v, and dips down as low as 12.6v after driving around for a few minutes, and that is during daylight hours, again, when running in the early morning hours when its still dark out, the display shows a constant 14.4v for miles on end, no doubt because of the electrical load from the headlights, driving lights and tail lights that automaticall come on with no other accessories in use, other than listening to radio/cd player at low volume, other than that, the truck is factory stock.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@williamgonzalez7167]

So how do u fix the problem broo ? I have the same problem with my tahoe 2008

[@Bige4u]

@@williamgonzalez7167 Theres no problem, its completely normal.... look for a device thats attached to the negative battery cable near the negative side of the battery, it senses the battery voltage. As the alternator charges up the battery after starting the vehicle, the instrument cluster guage will typically read +14.4v at first, then slowly drops down as the battery is being charged back up to its nominal voltage of +12.6, its GMs way of not overcharging the battery and shortening its life and/or cause it to swell up prematurely, smart charging basically.

[@sohcottoracing7345]

I have a Silverado 2008 , i am almost a mont trying to solve (the problem) now i know isnt a problem, thank you so much for these informtion.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped! Now you can make the truck better by upgrading the wiring keeping this in mind. kzbin.info/www/bejne/haLcnZqIgM52Y6M

[@CarAudioInc]

Nice video! Honda is similar, I installed a bypass on a switch so when I'm really bumpin hard, idling I can flick it on. For kicks I left the bypass on for a week and it's CRAZY how much gas mileage you lose.

[@Dblackon22]

Do you have a video explaining how?

[@AnthonyJ350]

That's interesting, I didn't know that.

[@bigjohnson3581]

Hi, what kind of bypass switch did you install? I mean what's it called, where does it go and where do I get it? I have a Honda Accord and I need more amps lol

[@chiphill4856]

Yep, the charging energy has to cone from somewhere.

[@michaelclark6506]

Thank you

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@liquidsmokemustang1537]

Thanks for this video. I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 LT loaded except no OnStar. I also have a 600 watt amp. I don’t see the clamp for PCM controlled voltage. My battery at rest today was 11.8V. After running it shows 12.6V. My issue is my volt meter (dash) at start has a rapid bounce between 14-17V. As soon as the idle lowers below 1000rpm it sit at 14+. When I drive, the same thing happens above 1000rpm, then come to a stop and it’s steady 14+. I noticed you changed the normal small alt to junction block wire to a large gauge wire. Could it be that small wire (fusible link) causing this? I’ve been chasing bad grounds but I’m stumped to the cause. Please help if you can.

[@cupidblues]

Thanks for the info. Have same system in my Nissan Patrol Y62. Alpine PXA-H800 monitors the variable voltage and drives me nuts untill now why it does it. Thanks 😊 again

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad it helped, I have another video that goes into this subject if you're modifying kzbin.info/www/bejne/haLcnZqIgM52Y6M

[@gregorykusiak5424]

Voltage and current have an inversely proportional relationship. Adjusting system voltage means adjusting current draw - the fuse/switch/relay/sensor and wiring specs all have to be within a specific range - and this is why grounding is so important.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment!

[@fernandoramos7679]

Great video, I did not know about the Battery Current Sensor or the RVC system. I'm currently running a AGM 12V 1000 watt 18 ah Power Cell as a secondary for my Class D amp in my 2010 awd Escalade Luxury. I have my main 0 aught wire connected to the main battery under my hood in the engine compartment. I'm running that 0aught wire back to my power cell in the back and then I grounded to the back floor panel (grinded the area down to bare metal first). Would I need to somehow run a ground through the BCS for my amp? I got my new Sensor a few days ago, so I'm looking for your opinion on how to disconnect and reconnect the BCS Sensor. Also how do I know if I need the 1st BCS design or the second BCS design. One is for 5volt Power supply coming from BCM and the other is 2nd design 10volt Power supply coming from the BCM?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Can you run 0 gauge from the original battery through the sensor? Then just ground the secondary battery at the negative terminal of the original.

[@fernandoramos7679]

@@AnthonyJ350 yeah I see how that would be the best way to do it, So I'm running a 0 gauge power wire from my main battery back to my second battery and then to my amp. The secondary battery and my amp are in the back cargo area of my Escalade, I'm guessing that would be to long of a run for a ground wire if I were to run a 0gauge from my main battery through the BCS and back to my secondary. Unless of course I misunderstood your reply, which I forgot to thank you for replying, so thank you Sir for the feedback.

[@MIKEMOE99]

Good intimative video man... Okay my scenario is... 07 tahoe smart charging but I have a powerful sound system & dual batteries, how should I bypass the smart charging in order to connect my battery isolator & have it function properly?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Get a Mechman Alternator with an external voltage regulator.

[@TheDoozie43]

My Ford does the same thing, if I want to really bump I turn up the fan lol. An Adjustable Us Alternators pcm is on it’s way to me as we speak. My 2014 edge can handle up to 16v, but my 4K rms sundown amp can only handle up to 15.5. the main thing I want to stop is when it drops to 12.9v without having to increase fan speed. That’s a big difference in sound output from 14.4. I figure I’ll set it around 14.8-15v. Singer 270a alt, Xs power d6500 under hood, sky high 1/0 throughout. I do however still need to upgrade the two smaller wires going through the ring sensor thing just before the negative terminal plate on the battery.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for sharing!

[@Bizego_innovations]

Any info in regards to the blue wire of the plug of the sarvc, looking for the location to where it connects to in the wiring harness, clymer service manual is only so much help. thank you...

[@AnthonyJ350]

Not sure, you would have to check with AllData.

[@michaelj740]

A few years late but, did you run the engine ground through the RVC alone or with other cables? and if you run the cable through the RVC can I add the other grounds after to a distro block to the battery.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes ran additional grounds through the sensor. After the sensor, yes you can run multiple grounds to a distribution point.

[@michaelyoungmusic8181]

Quick question if you could answer this. I have a 2005 Ford Escape 3.0L car and having issues with it running. When I check the voltage on my car battery when the car is running it is overcharging the battery. It sometimes can get up to 18 Volts. I was wondering with your knowledge of voltage if you could provide any advice for what may be causing this. I replaced the battery with a brand new one and I'm still having this overcharge issue which in turn is making my car run very poorly and my electronics in my car turn on and off. I also just replaced my alternator last year and I did pull it off to bench test it and it passed. I was wondering if you think the PCM could be the potential cause of all this or something else? Any advice would greatly be appreciative. Nice video by the way I learned a few things from it.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Are the battery terminals clean and well secured? Were you driving the vehicle for a while with a bad battery? Has the vehicle been jump started or put on a battery charger set to "high" or "start" setting?

[@michaelyoungmusic8181]

@@AnthonyJ350 Yes, battery terminals are clean and secured. Its a new battery. I don't think I was driving around for awhile with a bad battery. It was okay for awhile when i disconnected one of the terminals. If they were connected the battery would drain. The new battery has not been jumped yet. It has enough charge right now. It just overcharges when the car runs. Thanks for answering back.

[@helloworld5266]

I have a 2015 Silverado 2500 LT 4x4. I just bought an Iraggi 320Amp Alternator. I'm planning on upgrading my battery to a AM XS-D3400. I need your expertise ! The forums do no justice ! From what I can tell, I need to do the generic big 3. Then I get confused, do I then run the ground from my alternator through the clamp and then to my battery? Or ALL grounds? can you specify.. or is there a way to get ahold of you .. on a forum... anywhere to chat faster?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You'll want to run all the grounds either multiple or just one 0 gauge from the battery through the clamp.

[@Galicia322]

Thank you, I was wondering why my voltage kept dropping to 13.3v then randomly at 14.4v after getting a HO alt. Mine mainly does it at idle.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Everything works well though?

[@qwertyboi32]

Extremely useful info. I have a G37x and was wondering why the car would start up and start charging at 14.5ish (for anywhere from a few minutes to barely a minute) and then drop to 13.6 then drop down to 13 and then hover there.

[@AnthonyJ350]

In theory you would get more life out of your battery and better fuel economy on the highway.

[@qwertyboi32]

@@AnthonyJ350 It's actually causing more trouble than its worth. I rarely do long trips, I typical drive maybe 8-15km on a 'busy' day so my battery is always undercharged so I've gotten into the habit of hooking her up to a trickle charger once every few days to top it off. You think it would be a good idea to go ahead and disable it?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@qwertyboi32 How old is the battery?

[@qwertyboi32]

Just over 3 years old. Still holds 12.6 when fully charged so probably still healthy.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@qwertyboi32 Does the car only see short drives?

[@iphotonw7032]

Thank you for the videos with the explanation of the GM charging system and upgrading the grounds. I have a problem with my 2006 Silverado. All the lights, headlights, dash lights, interior lights pulsating and the voltmeter bouncing when the truck is running and while driving. When I turn the truck off with the headlights still on the pulsating stops and the lights are steady. The battery is about a year old and good quality and the cable connections clean. The alternator was replaced 7 months ago with a remanufactured alternator. I plan to add the ground cables as described in your video but I also wonder if it could be a bad voltage regulator in the reman alternator. If you have any idea what is causing the lights to pulsate I would appreciate your advice.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would test the voltage of the alternator. Also the current sensor clamp (on the ground wire off the battery) might be faulty.

[@iphotonw7032]

@@AnthonyJ350 Update, It was the alternator. I took it back to the store I purchased it at and while it tested in operating range they agreed to replace it after I complained about the voltage fluctuating. Working good now no light flicker. Thanks for your help.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@iphotonw7032 Good to hear you got it sorted out.

[@juanvillanueva9399]

I have a problem in my GM 2006 I install a mechman alternator and my voltage goes up and down and the engine runs weird

[@chancebieri6490]

I have a 2009 GMC Sierra 5.3. I am currently running on a stock alternator and I’m looking to get a bigger one and do the big 3. Is your pickup still doin good? I’m just worried I’m going to screw somethin up. Thanks

[@AnthonyJ350]

My truck runs and works great, I also drive it everyday with a 30 min commute to work.

[@chancebieri6490]

@@AnthonyJ350 thanks!

[@abousamah1967]

Thanks What is function of piece near rotor brush It is regulator or just connector Specially in chrysler cars

[@AnthonyJ350]

Which part in the video?

[@HIGHROLLAZAUTOCLUB]

I have a upgraded sound system in my car (Chrysler 300). When I had the stock alternator it used to read 14v at idle with the upgraded system. I installed a Mechman 320 amp alternator and it started to read 12v at idle. Come to find out the alternator can’t handle a big load on low idle so I changed the pulley to a smaller one and the rectifier on the alternator and now idles at 13v. Should I still put an external voltage regulator on to reach back up to the 14v or no?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Does it ever go to 14 volts?

[@HIGHROLLAZAUTOCLUB]

@@AnthonyJ350 no not at idle and not when the system it playing loud either.

[@samhoff4523]

Hi I have a 12in kicker ran from a 1000w pioneer amp it works good when the truck is off, or when I unplugged the alternator control it worked, but the lights died so I plugged it back in, once I did that the amp would cut in and out of protect mode. What do you think is wrong

[@AnthonyJ350]

What is the voltage of the truck when idling?

[@KJfreshh69]

Got a new battery sometimes my voltage shows 14 sometimes it shows 12... I have an 05 Escalade 6.0... shouldn’t it stay at 14 all the time it shows pretty low when I don’t drive it for a day or 2 and turn the key over to start it and once started it will either go to 14 or just go to 12 and stay. Or go to 14 then go down to 12 and stay. I don’t get it. Is my alternator bad or is my vehicle one of those that does what u said in this video?.. the whole not using such a load and saving energy.? I thought it would be the BCM , but not sure what to replace or to replace anything at all. Also not sure if it being 30 degrees the past week is gonna cause some issues or not.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Did you watch the whole video?

[@hulksta3223]

What other issues were you experiencing? On mine, the headlights get brighter when I rev the engine with the AC or heater on.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I actually didn't experience any issues. Just didn't understand the voltage fluctuations on the gauge making me think something was wrong.

[@seangowan7441]

My 2018 Chevy Malibu has the Regulated Voltage Control System and I have an amp and sub. 600 watt RMS at 1 ohm single 12" subwoofer with a 800 watt RMS at 1 ohm mono amp. And in the first time I start the car and go to work at 12 pm my voltmeter goes to 15 volts for a while even with the radio. Do I need a battery upgrade to keep up with my power hungry equipment.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would upgrade the grounds and it doesn't hurt to put a Northstar Battery in.

[@dc5001]

I wanted to buy a mechman ho alternator for my lexus rx 2017, and mechman said they dont have any past 2015. But they have universal alternators. My main concern is Buy using a modified ho alternator in certain cars, hurt, or damage anything with the system?.

[@AnthonyJ350]

You'd have to research the system. You have to make sure you can reconnect everything (plugs) or else the computer may think something is wrong and turn on warning lights or operate differently.

[@wadeparker8695]

What is that sensor called? The one that you’re pointing to in between the battery and the alternator. Thank you and great video sir!

[@AnthonyJ350]

I call it a "current sensor".

[@wadeparker8695]

Thank you my friend

[@glenhalstead2301]

Newer alternator & battery (6 months old). Last night while on 3 hour drive the battery gauge dropped and "Battery Not Charging" light came on. Shortly thereafter it returned to normal and volatage held steady. About two hours later volatage again drastically dropped and the battery warning light came on. It again was short lived and returned to normal voltage setting on battery gauge. I checked the connections on the battery and the alternator all connections seem secure. Any suggestions what else I should be looking for? 2004 GMC Yukon Denali and it's stock with not mods.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Do you have the clamp sensor on the negative terminal?

[@Jtavera67]

Hi my battery light came on today. But i dont use the truck a lot. I just remote start it every day. Do you think my alternator when bad or is just not putting up the voltage because i dont drive it? Thanks

[@AnthonyJ350]

Idling a vehicle a lot isn't good for it. If you're using the alternator to charge the battery when it's low that's really hard on it

[@Jtavera67]

AnthonyJ350 ok. Thanks

[@mplscarsales6652]

So I have a 2013 Cadillac ATS that I just replaced the battery and now the save battery is active and says check charging system I put in a full charged battery and load tested as well. Does this mean the Alternator is not kicking in because it’s fully charged and I should turn on all accessories to make the alternator charge the battery ?I followed the steps that Cadillac recommended when changing battery and turning to acc mode before turning engine on for 3 minutes. Please help Thank you

[@AnthonyJ350]

Some cars have a procedure that's specific when changing the battery. Those are the only steps you listed?

[@joseramos-oz3id]

Hi AnthonyJ350 great video i have 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE my truck kills my alternator and battery once a year i was told that it was RVC in my PCM and that i need to replace my PCM.Any help would be great thank you in advance

[@scottmcintosh2988]

Check your diodes in the alternator. Most common is the voltage regulator failures. Go to Canadian tire get tested !

[@AnthonyJ350]

What's the voltage when driving around?

[@plummzzz]

The issue I have with my current sensor is I put a 2nd battery in on a smart isolator that kicks in at 13.2. Problem is my current sensor floats between 12.5-13 so my smart isolator doesn’t kick in and charge my 2nd battery. The current sensor just bounces between 12.5-13, and when my regulator does bump up voltage past 13.2, my second battery kicks in and causes the sensor to bump the voltage back down under 13.2. And just cycles that over and over. Any suggestions? The one thing I’ve done that makes the dual battery set up work perfectly is unplugging the sensor. When I do that my system stays at a steady 14.3 while engine is running

[@AnthonyJ350]

I honestly prefer a regular heavy duty solenoid that engages as soon as it sees 12 volts ignition. I personally combine my batteries to be hooked up all the time and install fusible links at both batteries for safety. I just connect the secondary battery to the positive terminal of the main battery and ground to chassis. Let me know if that works for you, that's how I wired up a 2018 Silverado 2500HD recently.

[@darrelc5411]

My 2015 Cadillac SRX, showed 12.5 volts, and I thought it was a problem and thought my alternator was going out. But then I was recently reading online about this, and now not worried about it.

[@robbob1693]

In actual fact the ceiling of 75-80% SOC is not to prolong the life of the battery because it wont, it is limited to that soc by the engine management unit from engine driven charging only, the other 25% space in the battery is left for high voltage intermittent charging from regeneration which if that occurs takes the battery SOC to around 100%. A lead acid battery whether flooded or glass mat needs to be fully charged on a regular basis for longevity. The main reason for the high percentage of failing batteries in modern vehicles is stop/start and smart charging. The fuel gain from these two systems is marginal and the AGM batteries needed for this system cost at least twice the price of flooded and have a considerably shorter life. Anyone that hates the stop/start system can deactivat it simply be disconnecting the sensor attached to the negative lead of the starter batter, see video. I have done this on two late model Merc`s, there are NO issues, NO CEL on dash and both passed the UK MOT with sensor disconnected, Google ( AGM AFTERMARKET FALTERS AS DRIVERS DISABLE START-STOP FUNCTION ).

[@AnthonyJ350]

Ya a lot has changed for vehicle operation over the years with everything becoming computer controlled.

[@EmilianoVincenzoPorzio]

good morning, if I have any aftermarket installed on my car. and I installed a larger battery from 45Ah to 95Ah. Is it worth re-adjusting the "smart charger" to charge the battery more? I mean, set through the ECU or through some resistance that the alternator leaves the battery more charged than the one set by the house, which did not provide for the greater user.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Best thing you can do is upgrade the grounds on the charging system.

[@EmilianoVincenzoPorzio]

@@AnthonyJ350 Sorry for my English. I didn't mean a higher amp draw peak. But I needed a longer absorption while the car was off. therefore charging the battery at a higher voltage (not 13.2 but 14.8 at moment of turning off) could leave more amps to absorb during the parking period with no engine. Is it possible with some workaround on RVC-ECM-BMO-resistance or other?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@EmilianoVincenzoPorzio If you need more reserve capacity it's best to add another battery ran in parallel. I'll find a video for you.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@EmilianoVincenzoPorzio Here's a video where I add a second battery kzbin.info/www/bejne/hmm4apegop6Sopo

[@Ginx-pe4si]

Does it matter what direction the sensor is? Is the sensor placed between the negative post half a foot away and then after that the rest of the ground cables are grounded to the rest of the chassis, body and engine (or it doesn't matter)?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would install the sensor in the same orientation the manufacturer did just in case.

[@BigNastyOffroad]

I have a problem with my 06 Silverado with the current sensor plugged in it runs at 15.6v constantly. lf I unplug the current sensor the alternator output is a static 13.8v. I haven't installed my 1200watt system yet but have LED headlights. I have replaced the battery and alternator but can't find a replacement current sensor should I install a external variable voltage regulator

[@AnthonyJ350]

External might be the way to go. Have you cleaned up the factory grounds and updated them? kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@babypearls408]

Could you explain more about the voltage dropping with a sound system? 2024 Chevy, I have 130 amp alt, 1000 rms amp, 0 gauge wire no big 3, my voltage is dropping down to 12 while driving sometimes and going back up to 14.

[@AnthonyJ350]

What if you turn on the headlights? Does the charging system drop with the sound system on?

[@babypearls408]

@@AnthonyJ350 charging voltage with engine on system on will randomly go from 12.0- 14.5. No set indicator of what’s causing it. I can turn on all my accessories and it can go to 14.5, I can also turn it all off and be driving down the road with it at 12.0.

[@Kindalouddecaf]

So I have a Ford but I think you’re still a good person to ask. My alternator is regulated by the pcm, and planned on adding a regulator because I have a 4,000 rms system, and 3 huge agm batteries, 370 amp alternator, and big three but somehow I still dip down into low 13s high 12s on the expressway. I have a ~500 amp draw if all 3 amps are doing their rms (which is super rare) so more like a consistent 350. Would the regulator help at all?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Ya I think you're going to need an external regulator to force the alternator to maintain 14.5 volts. Secondary sealed AGM battery isn't a bad idea to add on as well.

[@raulfernandez9111]

If I hook up my amplifier ground cable directly to the negative post of my battery, Does the cable need to go thru the hole ring in the sensor?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would so the charging system can see the draw being pulled through the system.

[@TheRizal2727]

Hi there So i have a nissan versa 2018 And i have the same. Smart system And a i have an 15vsetpoint 320 amp alternator at the house The alternator is made for my car Do i will have the same deal like yours? And i will have the big3 with 0 wire Can i also use the factory wire from the alt to the battery? Thank uu

[@AnthonyJ350]

You'll definitely want to upgrade the wiring if you amp is putting out that much power. Is the a clamp anywhere on the battery cables?

[@TheRizal2727]

I dont know what u mean for clamp. But i will do the big3 1/0 gauge. But can i also use the factory wire plus the 1/0 going from the alternator to the battery?

[@TheRizal2727]

My factory wire have a fuse link right at the pocitive pole "a big black box"

[@quansayeromero8983]

Hello i have a 2005 Chevy tahoe it was driving fine then all of a sudden it stopped. It wont crank over at all none of my gauge hands are moving. All lights work so battery is good i jumped start my starter and it works. I looked at the sensor on black wire to battery o don't know what sensor that is but o opened it up and it look like oil was inside of and the harness thats connected to it. I don't know were the harness goes too seems like it goes under fuse box. What should I do?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You might want to look into this kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@jessefain8224]

I have a 06 Chevy tahoe z71 with 203k on my dash my battery light stays on 24/7 even with nothing on at all key out. has new Alternator. Voltage stays around 14. If you have any ideas please let me know thank you.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Check the clamp meter on the negative terminal. Is it plugged in? It might be faulty.

[@amberwilliams1571]

Have a question I have a 2008 gmc Yukon SLT I was driving noticed my dash was going crazy doors locking and unlock pulled over battery post we're loose but notice it sparked when I closed the hood well the wrong battery post we're on there so changed everything out new battery and post it was fine now this morning it started fine then driving I noticed that it went below the middle a.nocth or two is this normal still driving no bleeking or anything do I need to change alternator

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you're driving for a while and the battery has a good charge, Ive seen my voltage drop down to 12.8. Turn your lights on and drive and see if it hangs out at 14.5.

[@AnthonyJ350]

I have another video that might help. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@seangowan7441]

I had leds in my taillights for the brake/turn signal but single filiment 7440 bulb and it killed my stock agm battery, then dropped in an xs power D4800 agm battery in my 2018 Chevy Malibu. But I was told at my local Chevy dealer where I work my car has Regulated Voltage Control. My Battery will stay at 13-13.5 volts, is my Regulated Voltage Control kicking in by reducing voltage?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Probably, what happens when you turn on your lights? Will it got to 14.5 volts eventually? Also can't the mechanic plug into their scan tool and see how the alternator is operating?

[@seangowan7441]

@@AnthonyJ350 it's already back to stock for 6 months now.

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@seangowan7441 And does the voltage act the exact same?

[@seangowan7441]

@@AnthonyJ350 it stays at 14.0+ volts with the big 3 and stock battery.

[@jakek7112]

I have a 2500 same gen as you and the volt gage on the cluster fluctuates back and forth every second, but the voltmeter says its far more steady. Any ideas?

[@jakek7112]

At 14v

[@AnthonyJ350]

It's possible the stepper motor in the gauge cluster is faulty, it's a common thing to happen on these trucks.

[@jesuslopez5494]

I have a 2019 camaro and my voltage is 14.5v or 13.5v sometimes but most of the times it goes to 12.4v and keeps going for a long time like that and then again go back to 13.5 or 14.1 for like 3 to 5 minutes and than again it got drop to 12.4v is this will be same case ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Possibly, your car is under warranty still. Did you try bringing it to the dealership?

[@tashawnlee4452]

I have a 03 Chevy suburban 1500 Z71 4wheel drive. I just replaced the battery and alternator and I'm still getting a reading on my dash that says Battery not charging and the battery light comes on and off, what's the next thing I can try before going to the dealership because they did replace my PCM less than a year ago

[@AnthonyJ350]

How old is the alternator?

[@stevenayala2324]

Its crazy for me to see your speedometer on kilometers thats a first kind of wish i had it in my truck just to mess wit people lol from the U.S Texas that is

[@AnthonyJ350]

Ya a lot of people get confused when they watch some of my videos lol

[@68pishta68]

2002 silverado, alternator wont 'wake up' until 5-10 minutes into the drive (battery light on!) and sometimes it wont until I rev it past 3000, then it will slowly ramp up and not give me any more issues.... ? Bad brush?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Maybe, original alternator?

[@fireguy86]

Have a 2002 gmc Yukon xl with a 5.3. Alternator overcharges at 18.9 and blew up battery. Changed alternator and batt, same results. Any ideas?

[@fireguy86]

I also checked all grounds and voltage at battery and alt. Thanks

[@AnthonyJ350]

You'll have to research if the PCM controls it. There is a ground wire in the back of the block under the intake manifold. Make sure that one is ok. I cover it in my GM truck electrical maintenance video.

[@KuWizZ]

Same problem in Toyota Camry hybrid 2023. Struggling with since two months. I want to run XS yinlong bank 80ah.

[@AnthonyJ350]

What does the voltage drop down to?

[@vasquez3769]

What do I need to up my voltage? JEEP Commander. I have a sound system with an extra battery in the back. Its a C Max lithium so I'm buying an isolator but still need my voltage to at least 14.8

[@AnthonyJ350]

Cal Mechman and talk to them about their alternators and external voltage regulators.

[@vasquez3769]

@@AnthonyJ350 will do

[@crystaldavis9699]

I have an 05 Avalanche and while driving this morning a warning came across my dash "stability system disabled" what would cause that?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You might have to clean up and update some of the grounds on the truck kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@JTLeyva]

Thank you Jesus I thought I was crazy because mine keeps jumping around from 12.6 for a long time thin jump to 13.5 and slowly clime up lol I have a smsagm220 for my second bat and a irragy alternator 230amp

[@AnthonyJ350]

I did to till I found out what it was meant to do.

[@davemann7017]

I've been watching your videos and I'm starting to narrow down my problem. I have new battery (interstate) and a new acdelco alt. My battery keeps having battery acid coming out of the overflow. I did the big 3 and had it ran like you originally did . Then I seen your video and did the way mechman suggest and did that. My volts runs between 14.4-14.6 and sometimes I might see 14.7.. I feel like that's a lil high the .7 ... It does regulate in the low voltage but hardly ever cause I only drive it short trips. Any ideas? Tia..

[@davemann7017]

Update: I cleaned off the small 8-10ga factory ground that went to the front, under the rad. and that seemed to help sum what only seen it get up to 14.6 and that was me rolling up the window while driving and holding it when the window was rolled up... Still like to hear your opinion on the acid overflow

[@AnthonyJ350]

What kind of vehicle is it?

[@AnthonyJ350]

What's the manufacturing date of the battery?

[@davemann7017]

I'd have to look tomorrow. it's a newer battery less than a year old. And a 2005 Silverado. It's not a daily but I'm driving it tomorrow and I'll see what happens

[@AnthonyJ350]

The voltage is staying high because it needs to get the battery up to 80% state of charge. Do you put the truck on a battery maintainer when it sits for extended periods of time?

[@jamesdennis4155]

I have a 2005 tahoe good battery good alternator but the voltage drops and the ac wont work or heated seats wont work but if i run the windshield wipers it brings the voltage up and i can use the ac i dont know

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would first investigate the factory grounds, clean then and apply dielectric grease kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@270trevon]

My 2013 Nissan Altima has something similar but instead in runs as low as 12.2 when the engine is under load and only charges back to 14.5 when you begin to brake. I disconnected a wire within the pcm harness so it continues to regulate its voltage but now it stays at 14 consistently and throws no battery light.

[@AnthonyJ350]

It might rack the voltage up to aid engine braking. I would monitor your gas mileage with it bypassed and see if it gets affected.

[@270trevon]

AnthonyJ350 Yeap that's what it was designed to do. My gas mileage went down about 2mpgs since its mostly city miles which is fine with me as long as it works correctly.

[@SilverSurfer910]

270trevon My 2014 Ford Explorer does the same exact thing. I’m running a 5000 watt stereo though. It will sit around 13.0, and then shoot up to like 14.6-14.8 when braking. When the bass drops, it easily goes as low as 12.6-12.7.

[@PacmannProductionsTv]

Yo, I have a Nissan Sentra and I sit around 12.3v, sometimes lower. I'm curious about this wire you unplugged to constant charge to your batts

[@spacecowboy1924]

@@SilverSurfer910 you ever fix? 2013 f150 with CES 370 and it's charging at like 14.2 but I need like 14.8

[@jamesmyerssr.3119]

I have a 1999 GMC 2500 4X4 with 56000 miles. Looks and runs like new. Problem is the pulsing lights and meter. I cleaned and checked many grounds (6). Engine to frame, frame to body and battery grounds. No help. Something of note.... if I move gear selector in neutral and RPM drops to under 700, everything is fine. Can you help?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can also try upgrading the positive wire from the alternator to the battery with another 4 gauge wire. Did you just clean the grounds or did you add?

[@jamesmyerssr.3119]

@@AnthonyJ350 Add 2. Engine to frame I used another braided strap and frame to body. They are near the original straps. I will upgrade the positive from batt. to alt. Thanks for the help!

[@Dvdinhulkmania]

The problem was running thicker gauge wire from my stock alternator straight to the battery. This was keeping my battery charged 15+ volts for longer periods of time and with playing my sound system loud it would cause my abs light to come on. I got better voltage regulation with running the 0 gauge wire from the alternator to the red box. I figured that if I run a thicker wire from the alternator to the red box the regulated voltage control would work properly. Now my alternator doesn’t charge the battery past 14.8 volts and after my truck runs for awhile it will drop down and hold at about 14.1 volts

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for sharing!

[@SlamryCamry19]

Ok my main question is this even if the PCM kicks in and starts doing this and drops my charging to 13.8 where it's supposed to be at won't it still be charging at say hypothetically 290 amps at 13.8 volts if my alt is that size well I know it will produce less at idle but you get what I'm saying right say my original alternator was 100 amps and I've upgraded to a 290 amp model even if the PCM kicks in and drops the voltage to 13.8 won't it still be charging 2 1/2 times faster than it was originally just wondering I'm brand new to lithium and HO alternator etc and I just bought my first EVER lithium battery and about to order a 290 amp from autotech but my car is PCM controlled 19 Camry and im wondering about stuff like this any advice would be greatly appreciated

[@AnthonyJ350]

I don't use lithium in vehicles. I just use traditional flooded or AGM.

[@SlamryCamry19]

@@AnthonyJ350 ok that doesn't tell me if I'm still receiving 290 amps at the different voltages

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@SlamryCamry19 I would put a clamp meter on it to measure output.

[@zionwoods6301]

Can you help Me out I have a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I've got the new alternator and battery and for 2 weeks it drove perfect now it's going to 12-13-12-11v now stuck at 11 do I need a new ecm or grounds connected to alternator and car ground?

[@zionwoods6301]

@@BASSWRANGLER2000 Preciate it

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would clean and/or redo the grounds for the charging system and computer if you can. It's a start and won't hurt anything.

[@boss78753]

good I recently put a 370a H/O (cpm controlled)on my 04 crown victoria and when I hit the gas my music cuts out and then my amp comes back on but hit it again and it goes out again.What can I do for this

[@AnthonyJ350]

Can you measure the voltage at the alternator when you do this and tell me what's going on? You might need an external regulator. It's that or the drive belt is loose.

[@boss78753]

Funny u said that was told to go 1/2 smaller my belt was 95.1 I got a 91.0 and it broke (but I didnt have that problem with it)

[@AnthonyJ350]

What about an under drive pulley with the stock belt? Bigger pulley to take up the slack and with all that output out of the alternator, it shouldn't affect it that much.

[@christiangold8252]

How would you bypass the system, being that I’ve just installed a large amp and need constant higher voltage?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You need an external voltage regulator to control the alternator. I would contact MechMan

[@amordeweso]

I got a 400amp alternator for my 08 trailblazer has 3 batteries and a 8000 watt rms amp……I just got a voltage regulator that’s higher 15v it should still sit around the normal 14.7-8 I’d say…….doc you think this is a good move ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I would want the voltage to be at 14.5V - 14.8V

[@hangingwitthabrowns]

Wow ok so yes I’m having that problem right as now I’m pushing a 6k system Rms and I have an mechman 320 alt , xs power D3400 under the hood and one in the back! I was thinking it was my Alternator aswell… so my battery charging system come on when I’m sitting not really putting current through it, but when I start bumping the voltage goes up within like 30 to 40 sec I would guess… I need help on what to do? I just dnt like the battery light coming on while I’m sitting

[@AnthonyJ350]

What kind of vehicle? Did you upgrade the grounds on the engine going to chassis and engine?

[@hangingwitthabrowns]

@@AnthonyJ350 2017 Chevy Impala yes I did the big 3

[@jsoul328]

2012 2500hd with a plow that just started to cut off the radio and cluster all lights go dim or off, (when I try to lift the plow). Now it won't even lift the plow and when I have the plow hooked up, when I try to roll both windows up at the same time everything blacks out for a few seconds cluster gauges zero out and black out but truck stays running.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Test both batteries with them disconnected. If they're over 4 years old, change them both. Then upgrade grounds from battery to chassis, motor and cab.

[@percyflores7517]

can someone give an idea what could happened or whats going on .....defently is not the alternador ?or is it? this the issue started firts a noise pulley then got replace a week after battery light came on and somone replaced my alternador ( i notice a spark while he was doing it he probably didnt disconect battery ) well car seems to be fine until night time everytime i was on idle or turning my lighs off the car star making this noise like surging a couple times so i took it to auto parts place and they say bad voltage regulator they gave me a brand new one that i put yesterday and i tested and is the same bad voltage regulator?( i notice that the instesity of the lights keeps changing very mild) note : the last person that put my alternador yesterday told me that the conection that goes from alternador to the engine was broke bad it wasnt that loose just didnt have to force it came out right away and he told me he doesnt think thats the problem cause is not coming off ) someone please ? thank you

[@AnthonyJ350]

Is this in a GM truck? Since you did all those parts I would consider upgrading the grounds kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@yourboyLYLE]

So 2 questions. 1. Where did you get that alternator? 2. I have a smart alternator and I wanna hook up an air horn and a light bar but still retain the smart features. Is hooking the negative up to the battery okay or should I put it on the frame or body somewhere?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I installed a Mechman alternator, give them a call if you're not sure which one to buy. Here is the install video kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6vGh4OZocmpeLc

[@yourboyLYLE]

@@AnthonyJ350 ok thanks. What about hooking up the air horn and light bar?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@yourboyLYLE Hook them up with a fuse through a relay. So each device will need its own fuse and own relay off the battery or power distribution.

[@yourboyLYLE]

@@AnthonyJ350 the wiring harnesses already have there own relays and fuses. Would that work or would I have to plug in to the truck fuse box

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@yourboyLYLE If they have fuses and relays you can just attach straight to the battery.

[@trigg3306]

I’m lost at the moment lol . I have a 2006 GMC Sierra. I replaced my battery about 4 months ago. I had a yellow top battery beforehand. I recently had my battery light come on, so I replaced my alternator. Ran good for two weeks. My truck came with an amp (from previous owner) & my battery light came on again. & I noticed on the highway today when I had my music on kinda high & I was accelerating I noticed the battery voltage gauge dropping the more I accelerated & when I let the gas go the gauge would go back up to 14. ANY suggestions at all ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

The clamp meter on the negative terminal might need to be replaced.

[@AnthonyJ350]

This video on the grounds might help as well kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0si=2tjAlby7MqiTBdOv

[@trigg3306]

@@AnthonyJ350 you’re awesome thank you

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@trigg3306 You're welcome, I have a bunch of videos on these trucks you can check out.

[@LeonAKALELE]

Where did you get that digital gauge from?

[@AnthonyJ350]

The digital gauge is in my radar system

[@quinton7854]

i would like to know how to bypass the pcm so i can do the big 3, i have a 2011 impala with the sensor on top but its just too small to run 0 gauge through it

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can get an external voltage regulator to work with your aftermarket alternator.

[@FJTabb]

So a big 3 upgrade wont work on a car that has a regulator ???

[@mr.earnings]

I wonder is this whats happening with my battery voltage in my Charger....I have 370 mechman alt...2 agm batteries...and done a big( 3) 2 months ago...My voltage reads 13.0-13.4 at idle....but once i start driving voltage jumps up to 14.3- 14.7.....sound system push around 1500 watts...voltage fluctuate like you describe in video...Do i need add more ground connections

[@AnthonyJ350]

Did you upgrade the ground from the battery in the back to the new amplifier?

[@mr.earnings]

@@AnthonyJ350 I upgrade ground 1/0 Gauge to both batteries....and positive (+) 1/0 Gauge from battery to Alt

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@mr.earnings What is the voltage when you turn on your headlights at idle?

[@mr.earnings]

@AnthonyJ350 13.1 when headlights on at idle...once I'm driving voltage will jump up to 14.1-- 14.7

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@mr.earnings Turn off your audio and see if it acts the same. Might be just the way the PCM is programmed from factory

[@dtrojan07]

I have a 2011 Chevy 1500 Silverado with 5.3 replaced the battery; charges fine til i turn on AC then it shuts off alternator and it wont restart til I shut off motor and restart it; any Thoughts?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Are you blowing fuses?

[@AnthonyJ350]

How do you know the alternator is shutting off?

[@brentunderwood7600]

i got a 2005 tahoe when i first crank it gauge is at 14.8 like normal then it flutuates and slowly goes down to 13 and keeps flauting back and fourth to 13 to like 13.5 and it makes it idle kinda rough just started it idk if its the battery or alanator?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Check out the factory grounds, clean them and dielectric grease them. Also consider upgrading the electrical system by adding thicker grounds kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@brentunderwood7600]

@@AnthonyJ350 it just now started it today

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@brentunderwood7600 Check the battery voltage when the vehicle is off

[@keithbradley9976]

i have a 2005 chevy silverdo 1500 and i did a v6 to v8 swap . I used a wiring harness and engine from a 2003 2500HD with a 6 litre which did not have a generator battery control module . Now my battery light is on all the time . How do i get my light to go out . The gauge said it is charging about 14 volts .Thanks Keith

[@AnthonyJ350]

Are you using the computer from the 2003 as well to control the engine?

[@keithbradley9976]

@@AnthonyJ350 I am using the v6 computer that was tuned for the LQ4

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@keithbradley9976 Can you see if the tumer can turn off the RVC feature?

[@keithbradley9976]

@@AnthonyJ350 I will ask

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@keithbradley9976 I'm also not sure if the ECU controls the system or the BCM. I wonder if you grab the BCM from that 2500HD if the problem would go away.

[@CodGods420]

I got the service battery charging system alarm I tested the voltage on my battery I was good tested the alternator and found that the alternator was bad so I replaced the alternator and now I'm running about 14.5 volts with my lights off my radio off all electronics off and I can't seem to get the service battery charging system light to go off any suggestions? Oh I have also changed out the fuse that's between the battery and the alternator

[@AnthonyJ350]

It's possible the clamp sensor on the negative terminal is unplugged or faulty.

[@CodGods420]

@@AnthonyJ350 I'll take a look when I stop thank you for the quick reply

[@ltcbe295]

I'm wondering how to change that sensor if it ever goes bad

[@AnthonyJ350]

You're referring to the clamp?

[@Lost_souls_lose_freedom]

My 05 Avalanche with RVC looks like a disco party going down the road. People have actually recorded me going down the road (without me even knowing) and showed me the video the next time they see me. The volt meter fluctuates from below the 14 mark to the large 16 mark which is a lot on the guage. The dash lights have gotten so bright they overrode the dimmer switch until the voltage fell again. any ideas?? it does have a carquest alternator in it. any ideas would be apprieciated

[@AnthonyJ350]

Have you upgraded the grounds and cleaned the factory ones?

[@Lost_souls_lose_freedom]

@@AnthonyJ350what do mean when you say upgrade the grounds? Is there a certain upgrade pertaining to this issue?

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@Lost_souls_lose_freedom kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqLPYYirbZKGhM0

[@Lost_souls_lose_freedom]

@@AnthonyJ350 thank you for the help! I know this is an old thread so I never thought I'd get a reply. so thank you, I really do appreciate it!

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@Lost_souls_lose_freedom Always happy to help 🙂

[@Dex99SS]

Man is it weird to see a Canadian dash... Those metric volts look funny. Ehhh, in all seriousness though. I've come from so many Tahoe's, Burbs, Yukons, and Escalades from 96-04... various items from various years... Just got an 05 Escalade EXT, and I was experiencing this. Of course I saw it as a bad alternator, and swapped it out ($240 for a new 160amp unit I didn't need). Then it did it again, lol... So I swapped another battery I had into it, one that I knew was good, compared to what came with the truck, which I didn't know was for sure good. The only thing though, I'll get below 14v with headlights on... like 13vdc... Everything's "working" apparently though, as there's no battery light... and it seems to be doing more or less what it should be... just not ramping up with headlights. And I drive and hour to and from work, with every morning being dark, with headlights. Hmmmmmmm..... I guess I could clean up the clamp meter, but that clearly wouldn't be the thing here, as headlights are headlights... it knows when they're on. It turns them on.... I don't like this, lol... I've never had battery issues in anything older, I doubt this gets all that much more life from a unit. Gimmie my 14.x VDC back! STAHP PROBING MY VOLTS YO!

[@AnthonyJ350]

You could upgrade the grounds and swap the exterior lights out to LED.

[@james10739]

Your description say 2000 gm vehicles and I'm pretty sure that cluster is from 03 or newer and I have only seen those current sensor on 05 or newer but that cluster isn't American I assume Canada but we're things different or is this an 05 ,06, or 07 classic

[@AnthonyJ350]

I believe you're right on the years.

[@daquellejones264]

I have a new alternator and battery, with subs, ive been running this set up for about a year, and now the voltmeter drops to slightly below 11, so low it cut off once, it also cut off before I changed my alternator, wondering how to check this RVC to see if it’s bad. Also do I need to have it hooked up?

[@daquellejones264]

It’s a 2005 Chevy Tahoe 5.3 with a JS alternator 360 amp and yellow top optima battery. Big 3 upgrade as well

[@AnthonyJ350]

You would need to use a multimeter to check it manually or a powerful scan tool. But your operating voltage is too low. The sensor might be faulty.

[@Therealeverr]

@@AnthonyJ350 do you believe it’ll be the current sensor? I have a 03 Chevy 4.8 currently running 2 10s with a voice audio system as well but it won’t let me higher it at times because my voltage drops , it happens also more when I’m getting ready to start braking at a light but once I take off the voltage goes up to about 14.0-14.2 I’m on a stock alternator but want to know if maybe could be current sensor before replacing my alternator. Any help would be appreciated!!

[@Therealeverr]

@@AnthonyJ350 also if I have the truck In park I can jam the system as loud as it goes but once I put it in reverse or drive my voltage will start to drop .

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@Therealeverr I don't think 2004 has it. Do you have a belt driven or electric fans? Check out my GM Truck Ground video and also upgrade them.

[@danielaguilera1506]

How can I get in contact with you I got some questions on a 02 Tahoe. I got 2 8s and a Rockford fosgate t1000bd 0 gauge power wires and grounded straight to the frame. The big 3 has been done all 0 gauge sanded and painted over clean up the factory grounds as well. New AGM battery and new 140amp ac delco alternator. Soon as I turn my bass up the voltage drops so low it kills the truck and has a hard start after. Not only the sound does this but I can kill the truck buy rolling up all windows at the same time any idea ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

What's the voltage of the battery when idling? And what's the voltage of the battery with everything off?

[@danielaguilera1506]

Amps read like 4.2 to 5.6

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@danielaguilera1506 That's with the motor off? What's the voltage at the battery terminal? How did you ground your sound system?

[@danielaguilera1506]

@@AnthonyJ350 13v at battery terminals with motor off. 15v with it on . I just read the fluke t5-600 rounds up or down so it’s not as accurate. My amp is grounded to the Frame of the vehicle with a foot long 0 gauge welding lead wire grounding point is sanded to bear metal ground attached with self tapping screw them paint over to protect it

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@danielaguilera1506 And what's the voltage at the amplifier terminals?

[@welderusa9063]

When your radiator fans kick on, does your voltage drop a bit and then return to 14?

[@AnthonyJ350]

It probably does a little, I have a Mechman alternator so I don't notice voltage drops anymore.

[@welderusa9063]

@@AnthonyJ350 ok thanks.