Here's Why You Never Mess With Your Steering Shaft!!

Here's Why You Never Mess With Your Steering Shaft!!
#SteeringShaft #RagJoint #GMSteeringShaft
In this video I remove my factory GM steering shaft which uses a rag joint instead of a universal joint. I attempt to install a new heavy duty steering shaft but happened upon a few issues.
The new steering shaft, in this video, is by Borgeson and looks like it's built like a tank!
Watch the show to find out more!!
** I am an Amazon associate. I make a commission based on sales through my Amazon associate links.**
Here's the Borgeson steering shaft in this video: amzn.to/3lTzitJ
Here's a Dorman version that'll fit my truck: amzn.to/3dHBbFw
www.1roadgarage.com
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places.

[@bbq_boards]

***BORGESON BUYER BEWARE**** I worked as an ASE certified Master Tech for over a decade and I am now a mid career Sr. Mechanical Engineer who has spent his entire engineering career in the automotive sector. I own a 1992 Chevy c1500 and have owned this truck for 15 years so it goes without saying I've replaced literally everything on this truck, multiple times in some cases. That being said, at one point I purchased the Borgeson shaft that was in fact made for my truck (which the shaft shown here is clearly the incorrect part). The Borgeson shaft I bought came with a universal joint on one side, rag joint on the other side, collapsible, etc. and seemed like a solid upgrade until..... a few years down the road the truck got the wobbles at high speed. Upon further inspection I found the overpriced Borgeson shaft and its rag joint had failed. The failure of the rag joint on this $275 shaft was the culprit. The bolt attaching the steering box side of shaft to the intermediate shaft side had pulled through the rag joint so effectively only one of two bolts were holding the shaft from completely falling off and creating an uncontrollable accident. Failure of parts is normal however, the factory steering shaft has redundancy and a fail safe mechanism built into it. These features can be seen if you inspect your shaft.... 1.) The redundant aspect of the factory shaft is two metal ears on each side coming into contact which allows for steering the vehicle with a complete rag joint failure. 2.) The fail safe aspect of the factory shaft does not allow for the steering box side of shaft and intermediate side of shaft to ever separate even if no rag joint is present which, again, will still allow for safe operation of the vehicle although undesirably. Luckily, I saved the factory shaft so I removed the Borgeson and threw it in the trash where it belongs. I then found a new replacement rag joint for the factory shaft for about $8 on JEGs and reinstalled the factory shaft with the new rag joint. Changing the rag joint takes some work as you need to drill out the factory rivets and replace with the bolts included in the rag joint box but the replacement retains the redundancy and fail safe mechanisms. In conclusion, do not just blindly install 2nd tier aftermarket automotive parts without understanding what you're sacrificing. The level of failure mode effect analysis performed throughout automotive design at OEMs is what keeps our roadways safe for us and everyone around us. - Aaron

[@hey_youtubeim_back2159]

Never could have said it better. Also, the set screw design on other applications have no groove or recess to screw into. The set screw contact point is splines on the input shaft. Crazy design in my book

[@joshuam122]

Let mine sit for a few without driving it much and when I got it out to put some time and money into it and I'm dealing with the exact same problem. I got a new rag from Napa but am having a hard time getting it back together with the directions. I no longer have the little ear pieces or the stock shaft. Anyways I got a question for you ... Is the split shaft supposed to move freely? Mine is stuck almost solid. If I take an extension and slide it in the end and hit with a hammer I can get it to move but not out.

[@TechTubeHDReviews]

As a MechE with a '97 2500, I appreciate this. You sound like one of my old professors haha. I've been looking into steering upgrades for my truck and I see everybody using the u-joints, but I failed to see any sort of redundancy implemented into them, let alone not fitting at all in cases like this. I often haul my family around with me in the truck and I always appreciate redundancy where possible. Worrying stuff out there. Couple of rivets ain't to bad, I'll be sure to go with your recommendation...

[@bbq_boards]

@@joshuam122 yes, the intermediate shaft should slide in and out freely. This is to allow it to collapse in an accident so it doesn't harpoon the driver. There is an arc shaped "spring" inside so the connection isn't sloppy. Use a deadblow to separate the two pieces of steering shaft, clean everything thoroughly and apply some bearing grease to all contact points prior to reassembly.

[@bbq_boards]

@@TechTubeHDReviews the design is supposed to have some "wiggle" even when new. It's not like the new rack and pinon steering systems on vehicles today. U-joints are problematic since they remove the wiggle and make the connection rigid. Adding rigidity will lead to other components failing downstream. I made this mistake by changing the rubber control arm bushing to a prothane and had upper and lower ball joint failures multiple times before reverting to factory rubber bushings. All parts aren't created equal.

[@z28_wannabe]

Cunningham Machine makes the ultimate replacement shaft. No drilling, no bs, its collapsible and everything

[@carsonfischer2116]

Can confirm super super easy

[@russellstephan6844]

A couple of Summers ago, I did a frame out front end refresh of my 1993 C1500. I've also since replaced my steering lower shaft with a Jeep example (rag-joint to U-joint). My effort had no big stumbling blocks. And yes, the removal of the rag joint tightened up the steering precision (removal of slop) drastically. As for your issues, I would have just drilled a receiving hole in the mating part of the U-joint shaft and drilled/tapped a 90° offset set-screw. But then, I have a nice VFD drill press I built sometime back which makes such custom fitment exercises less of a pain. Good luck!

[@boyracer3477]

I don't have the proper tools so I was thinking I would have a machine shop make the proper modifications.

[@T.R.R.Jolkien]

You are definitely part of the answers in life, my good man…

[@jasonsonnier30]

Just did the 84 through 94 Jeep Cherokee steering Shaft conversion on my 1989 Chevy 1500 got it off eBay for $80 there was no glue or plastic in mine just drilled out the 4 dimples 2 on each side of the shelft and it slid in an out easily and bolted right up it did improve the slack in my steering totally worth the time and effort to do it

[@jeyweb4236]

Second that.

[@jeffpurl1081]

I 3rd that. I had a 94 1500 and snagged a universal shaft from a grand Cherokee from the same age, bolted right on (Saginaw made all steering components on jeep and Chevy) I don't remember the extra pin though...

[@stewartgriffin3192]

I 4th that. Cheap and easy. I got one from a wrecking yard for 30$. Melted the glue out and it fit right in. Steering is way better.

[@mikecoxlongthe3rd220]

@jason Sonnier do you have a link to the exact one you used? I have 89 GMC Sierra with a lot of slop in the steering I keep seeing videos where they need to heat it up and grease it then put a notch I’m looking for the drop in one where you just gotta notch it

[@gideonmalychewski7643]

I did that and it effed up my whole gear box threads… don’t reccomend very dangerous

[@gweedomurray9923]

THANK YOU FOR LEAVING THE JOB FAIL portion in. Your presentation is real clean and clear too. May your truck work have succeeded, Jimmy. ~ Gordon

[@patrickturner270]

I removed the old rag joint steering shaft from my 1986 Chevy C10 and replaced it with a Jeep Cherokee steering shaft. Went very smoothly and looks factory. Sometimes you can get lucky and find a part for another application that works perfectly on yours.

[@CngBng]

Got any more Info on this? I have a 1985 c20 suburban that needs a replacement.

[@shawn1506]

i was wondering if anyone was going to mention that.

[@gideonmalychewski7643]

Did the same thing and it screwed up my splines on my gearbox- I’m lucky I caught it before I wrecked

[@d1strappazon]

I would just do some slight modifications to the new steering shaft like drill that hole up inside so that pin could seat in further

[@Remow2112]

Exactly this! A drill press, calipers and an attitude.

[@Zelaznogsiul-63]

I have been working on my 1990 gmc c1500 for the last year on and off, and everything is an uphill battle, but I cannot give up putting the truck back together, took it partially apparat to do bodywork and paint. Love your videos.

[@BigSarnt]

Dude, bought a 89 chevy c3500 and it is an uphill battle lol. It's actually to the point where I took apart the front end as well; Even the control arms have to be replaced because the right lower control arm won't hold the lower ball joints anymore. It was a farm truck that was misused. Not to mention the grime, caked on dirt, corrosion, and rust on that thing. But just like you, I can't seem to give up on the rebuild. Good luck on the project bud.

[@Zelaznogsiul-63]

@@BigSarnt I perfectly understand, have a happy new year.

[@TLavery707]

This modification is also very popular with the 1st gen Dodge Cummins. I did it on my Dodge and it helped a lot. Easier installation because those gear boxes are on the outside of the driver side frame.

[@g_j_b_o_o_g_e_r420blaze9]

With rag joint or no jag joint ? What why is better

[@TLavery707]

@@g_j_b_o_o_g_e_r420blaze9 New shaft has a rag joint on one end and a u joint on the other. Stock shafts have a weird box slip joint that have a bunch of slop in them and fail.

[@jeffs4576]

A word of caution: The original shaft is designed to collapse, along with the upper shaft and the column housing in a front end collision to prevent it from going through your chest. If you pull back the boot on the original shaft, you'll see where they slide.

[@jeromegarcia5396]

Lmao, stupid rag joint... joking

[@DanielCollins85]

Jeff, I have a 1979 F150 4x4 that I am doing a ground up restoration on. I was looking at getting the Borgeson steering shaft as well. Would you recommend going with the stock steering shaft? I didn't even consider it being designed to collapse in a ftont end collision.

[@crforfreedom7407]

@@DanielCollins85 Borgeson does a nice job with the Ford parts, different than this Jimmy. IDK how they work with other aftermarket parts like Redhead.

[@crforfreedom7407]

Of course the Borgesons slide too...

[@Luke-jc1xw]

@@crforfreedom7407 just installed the redhead with a borg on a 91 bronco and it was compatible. Works amazing.

[@TD-ue3bb]

Just in case you haven't found it yet, you can replace the rag joint with Lares 205. Rockauto and Summit have them. I just did mine a few days ago.

[@gabelossusthe4th]

Same here. Turned out the play was actually in my cheap reman gearbox though :P

[@DavidALovingMPF102]

I used Summit also. Gearbox took 5 months to arrive! Must have been on a ship. I bought a great gearbox, fixed a lot of problems. replaced the rag joint with another bigger rag joint. No big deal. I have other stuff to do to my 92 GMC but I had back surgery in Plano Texas so I am waiting until 2023!!!

[@donaldkent3730]

I did exactly what you did to your 1995 Suburban. I have a 1995 GMC Suburban K2500 7.4 4x4 when I did the steering shaft I went with the same u-joint shaft. Thank you so much for doing this video. My Burb was scarry to drive with rag joint steering. It drives really straight now. I also replaced the whole front end also. Thank you!!!!

[@emotionallyintelligent9847]

@Donaldkent what company parts did you go with to replace your front end?

[@gazzasinkers4140]

About 20 years ago I had to change my rag joint on my 1976 Holden Torana. There was so much movement in it and it was just sloppy. It was also about half the thickness of the one in your truck. Due to how hard it is to get good aftermarket parts in Australia, I went for a Nolathane replacement so there was no messing with factory parts needed. It had steel sleeves where the bolts go through as well as HT bolts and Nyloc nuts. It did make for a bit more vibration through the steering, but was extremely direct with nearly no movement at the joint

[@AngelJimenez-cc4jj]

why not just twist the steering shaft 180⁰ and drill a hole so the shaft from the steering gear could fit

[@johnwagner4559]

Dude, you are SO neurotic with your cars!!!! I love it! I'm the same way....first thing I thought while seeing this video??? I should do that! Lol. But also remember, if it ain't broke, don't fix it...that's what you learned.

[@DonkeyGap750K3Gixxer]

Just a friendly suggestion from a seasoned(30yrs) self employed Mobile Mechanic(med.& Heavy duty ASE master Truck Technician) always at least 24hrs prior to tearing components or systems down make sure to soak fasteners -I personally use Deep creep but wd40,blaster or something like that will help especially on parts seeing heat cycles unlike what you worked on in this video 🤙 I appreciate your time and enjoy your videos-thanks & Happy New Years from Conroe Tx!!!

[@paulfrancisco8859]

whats a ASE master truck technician? never hearda this qualification b4

[@judsonwentz2747]

Lol all the unasked for credentials just to say "use wd-40" lololol I was really hoping for some insight.

[@STBRetired1]

Yes, problems can arise when doing vehicle repairs. But, thank God for people like you who bring these things to our attention before WE tear our vehicles apart. From other videos I have seen, those Borgeson units seem to fit right in okay on Ford trucks without any modifications. But, a commenter below mentioned how rag joints allow for the wear in the frame bushings to the body, too. Since I'm so old, I'll probably just replace my shaft with a new rag joint unit. The new rag joint will outlive me by many years, I'm sure.

[@mcmillan1963]

Thanks for showing the reality of aftermarket. Why they don't include information on fitment in the instructions on a lot of aftermarket is a mystery to me. This is why we have welders and grinders and become innovative 💡

[@dchawk81]

Most Borgesons have fitment charts.

[@ictcarguy3162]

Working from memory here but I think Borgeson shafts are designed to fit their steering gears. The best performing solution is to order a Borgeson box to go with the shaft you already own and sell the RedHead. Although more expensive the Borgeson gear will be superior to a factory spec gear.

[@maybee0076]

it is extremely frustrating finding a good gear i always bench test all replacement gears and reject atleast 60%

[@1BlackopsGuru]

@@maybee0076 redhead and blue top make excellent gears, blue top is owned by someone who used to work for redhead

[@maybee0076]

@@1BlackopsGuru i havent been impressed with red head i find most are have a over adjusted sector ore a cotrol valve that has a bias

[@maybee0076]

lock title all set screws they all come loose on the borgeson

[@ranger8729]

@@maybee0076 I agree, i am not impressed with RedHead either. I went through 3 boxes for my XJ before I got ones that was tolerable, and I still had to adjust it more than I should have coming from them. Swapped to a BlueTop box, and it was perfect first try.

[@benkanobe7500]

The videography, the lighting, the acting, ....... You deserve an Oscar! Even when it doesn't work out is is worth-the-watch!!

[@72dodge340]

He's the next Juicy Smallay!

[@Michael-jp4oh]

Borgeson makes the same shaft with a rag joint. I used it on my 94 and it fit perfect.

[@01cenriq]

Awesome video. Have you considered going with Cunningham motor sports steering shaft?

[@AR-lx3cx]

I was wondering the same thing

[@carlnelson3893]

Soooo, dumb question... why do they sell that steering shaft as a replacement if it doesn't take into consideration of the existing GM steering box mate-up?

[@1RoadGarage]

Well, unless other steering boxes are different than mine it could work with modifications but I just wasn’t willing to do that.

[@garyhoelting5994]

@@1RoadGarage I'm like you,don't want to modify something that was built specifically for my application,and for the price,I should not have too

[@frankmaddalena8570]

To make you buy their gear box. I guarantee 60% if not more of people that run into this problem just go ahead and buy the gear box because "new shiny parts" caught their attention. Not to mention, rag joints are used from the factory for a specific reason

[@Tablesaw818]

In 1992 I had a 72 Chevy with with a rag joint. One weekend coming home from a camping trip I was coming around a curve and my rag joint broke. Luckily I was going slow enough. Could not straighten her out of the curve and wound up in a ditch.

[@Pendragon69608]

Yo Jimmy, I've been watching u for 2 years now, your channel is growing bro. Your videos have help me with mine and my wives 95 c1500 v6 stepside keep it rolling brother. I love your material .

[@alvinb1959]

Hi Jimmy, you just gave me a Head's Up. I've got an '88 Chevy 4door R-30 I'm rebuilding, collecting the steering components now. Rather than buy an entire shaft with universal joint - I took all the measurements from the RAG end of the shaft, bought a 3/4" Drive Universal Joint (Made of Stainless Steel) and welded it to the end of my old steering shaft along with a slot clamp welded onto the end (for the gearbox). Yeah, that little weld in itself was a Trick for Sure as not to zap the strength from the clamp or universal joint. I mean, I get it, you don't want to be Manufacturing (or Modifying) for your truck. I don't mind doing it for myself as I'll be testing all my modifications & manufacturings for beyond original specs. Anyway Dude, Good Luck and hope all turns out to suit you.

[@nicholaspayne349]

I used a 96 jeep Cherokee steering shaft for my 96 c1500 pickup. I had to do some cutting and modifications to get it to collapse enough to fit onto the gear box splines but other than that it had the same exact mounting and bolt holes with a nice beefy u joint. 80 bucks shipped still holds strong 5 years down the road and over 100000 miles

[@carsgunsandfitness6462]

Does it make a noticeable difference?

[@MikeSmith-nu9wt]

I did the same thing , then i noticed the upper was bad also , that ones hard to find ..

[@reddragon6613]

I tried swapping one of those Borgeson shafts in my third gen Trans am, was a massive fail as the steering developed a dead spot/clunk whenever steering. I went back to the rag joint and the problem went away.

[@thecommodoredecker]

Knock the roll pin out that you see in the flat part, and that torsion pin comes out, the new shaft you have isnt like the factory one that not only splines but clamps. Yes if the new one had a slot in it that would clamp it down that set screw wouldnt be enough but if you remove the torsion pin it will work

[@405motorhead]

Have you looked at Cunningham Machine? I bought theirs that looks similar to this. Worked for me, might be worth a look before going back to stock.

[@mrl22222]

so like zerofuchsgiven said, the joint takes up movement along the shafts length as the vehicle flexes. Futher, just driving a setscrew into the splines is a recipe for disaster as the body flexing works really hard at trying to work the screw loose. The factory bolt serves 2 purposes. 1) it clamps onto the splines by making the socket smaller and 2) the bolt passes through the slot physically preventing it from coming out, no matter how loose it is. If you put a fixed joint in there, then all the movements must be taken up by the sliding shaft sections, which are not designed for continuous high frequency movement and will get loose pretty quickly. Rag joints are extremely strong in the (wheel turning) direction and extremely flexible in the other, and that's why they have been used for the last 60 years instead of u joints which are prone to failure.

[@vincentorona163]

Hey Jimmy the video on “build you own” shows a rag joint stealing shaft that looks beefier and looks like it could fit the 96 year model trucks, what do you think?

[@grezikpainting]

Redhead wasn't a good gearbox for me. sent 1 back and before I sent the second one back my 1 year warranty ran out. (I have a 1996 e150 van)

[@FabiusMaximus1000]

That is odd. I put a u-joint in place of the rag joint on my S10 ZR2 and I don't recall the pin being an issue. I got mine from eBay. Flaming River makes one as well that's all shiny aluminium. I think it's a D shaft to 3/4 spline? I bet that would work for yours as well? You just have to knock the rag joint off the stock shaft.

[@bobbythompson6017]

Would you say that new steering shaft would give the steering and gearbox better performance ???

[@GeorgiaHyway]

Hey Jimmy.....first off, Merry Christmas to you and yours! Next? just wanted to say "Thank You for this and all your other videos. Clear, concise and to the point Kudos! Keep up the great work and I'll keep watching! Hyway in Jackson, GA USA

[@romanquintanilla3842]

I used the steering shaft for an 84 to 94 jeep Cherokee. Worked perfect.

[@ArmChair_Operator]

@1road look up Cunningham machine, they make those u joint shafts specifically for these trucks, along with bronze door pin bushings, since you have a 95 I would also look into the jeep xj steering shaft swap I've seen that done too

[@mistahjay_racing2751]

Good thing I watched this before ordering lol thanks for all the great content 👍🏾

[@Seth_Michael_Hernandez]

Great video as always. Could you review Cunningham Machine components? I hear awesome things about them from door bushings to U-joint steering shafts.

[@Dagrizzb]

Thats who i got my steering shaft from.

[@BGObs2619]

lost it at 9:15 lol great videos! Bought my 1999 suburban ls couple of months ago. Slowly upgrading it and I come to your channel often!

[@joshualymer6568]

The rag joint style works fine as long as it’s new! I only use Blue Top gear boxes but I’m a ford guy we like our blue thanks for the video

[@brianwilsonbeachboys]

Not sure if this applies to this generation, but does the Jeep XJ steering shaft work? It's a common upgrade on the 73-87(91) GM trucks, but I am not sure if the steering boxes changed in 92.

[@milesgerschefske6231]

Used there kit on my 91 dodge w250, worked perfectly out of the box. I used it cause I was doing a body lift and needed a shaft that was expandable.

[@g_j_b_o_o_g_e_r420blaze9]

What’s your honest opinion about the shaft? I have the same thing body lift and was wondering if I should get a rag joint style or u joint style

[@bigbear587]

I put a jeep cherokee steering shaft on my 1990 Scottsdale. The rag joint was very worn and sloppy. The cherokee shaft had u-joint in it. The steering felt amazing after that switch.

[@duwomaiishgabrielle9498]

I am having a hard time lining up the old intermediate steering shaft with the steering box, any tips? It just doesn’t want to go in?

[@jamesplotkin4674]

Oh, c'mon dude. Drive that pin out and the "torsion" bar slips out. If you are handy at all, drill and tap for a second set screw. Easy job, really.

[@lordkin-kong8888]

Just as you looked at the cup, I said out loud "junkyard!" 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@AaronBilger]

I got one for my 1990 ford f350 my old one was falling apart bought that same brand steering shaft and had to cut the tube a little bit and it fit right on hard part was keeping the steering wheel straight.

[@Stackendimes]

what about the xj intermediate shaft? Small modifications are needed.

[@Dirtydigger]

This is a very smart view on aftermarket parts yes most are designed for strength but what is the down side. “Good job pointing this very important information not many people think about “

[@Stn_4]

Loved Everything in it ... I had done lots of things like that, and felt the same ..... Thumbs Up Bro ....

[@kolossol1]

So... is the issue with putting that intermediate shaft on the Redhead gearbox or the factory gearbox? I ask because I'm looking at the Borgeson replacement for my '98 Tahoe. I could use the Dorman but the Borgeson appears to be built much better.

[@gabrielkoby6308]

Years ago, I got a steering shaft from flaming river. It had two set screws like you want. I was still concerned about it coming loose. I did have to cut the pin off with my grinder. Wasn’t fond of that either. Nickel plated, spring loaded collapsible, started to rust within a month or so. Extremely disappointed for the price I paid.

[@spartaruckus8776]

redoing the front end of my k1500 got a redhead gear box as well, was bouncing between Borg and Dorman guess this confirms that i need the Dorman. Thanks for doing the leg work for me.

[@ElPadrino610]

I don't even remember that thing when I installed my borgeson shaft, I did see it did not fit all the way but I just tightened it really good and haven't had a problem for over 2 years

[@frankmaddalena8570]

People like you are the exact reason warning labels were created and why mechanics charge $100+ an hr

[@ElPadrino610]

@@frankmaddalena8570 well at least I'm manly enough to work on my own truck and can charge people like you $100 because your to afraid to mess up your manicure

[@carlodonnell146]

Is it really a good idea to get rid of the rag-joint though...I woulnt It must be there for a good reason; to allow movement

[@manalorp]

I love your Channel man! you're my hero!

[@Joex51x]

what about undoing the set screw on the upper section of the new shaft and moving that 90 degrees

[@eduardopaz659]

Love you're videos i have learn a Lot about Steering shafts and rag Joints thank you .

[@dawabbitt3079]

I could be mistaken, but I think that 'pin' which is sticking out is actually part of the steering worm-gear itself. As the the outer splined portion turns, that gear (with the 'pin' on it) actually moves up/down (or in/out - however you want to view the motion). Cutting it off may have caused it to bind inside the steering gearbox once you turned the steering all the way in whatever direction that makes it go all the way back inside that outer splined shaft.

[@joshguy43]

Notice the interference-fit smaller pin thats pressed level with the flat surface of the splined shaft(perpendicular axis)? Its either holding the protruding shaft in the splined shaft (likely), or retaining the splined collar onto the shaft(unlikely). Regardless, I do believe he could've driven the retaining pin out and removed the protruding shaft and continued the install without cutting the end off. Worse case he has to reassemble what I'm referring to if I'm mistaken in its design.

[@jackpepperdine8756]

100 % there's a flat screw that will back out enuff that when u slide the shaft on it will push that spring loaded nub up and down but soon as he gets it down he needs to tighten the screw down

[@sounds2sleep195]

What if someone at the factory installed that u joint incorrectly and you took it off the end of the shaft where it had the 2 set screws and flip it around.

[@AntiqueCycles]

Anyone know the size and spline count of that u joint? I believe the steering box spline is 25 with flat and groove

[@markcummings-alexander2310]

I bought the replacement from Amazon- the top goes in the bottom is hell to get on. Dust boot is the problem. Any tips?

[@kevinskater13]

Aside from the pin preventing the shaft from sliding down, couldn't you have just rotated the shaft 180 degrees for the set screw to go where it needs to? Or was it flat on the other side as well?

[@johndoe43]

Going thru similar on a 77 Jeep cj5 with manual steering. Borgeson does a different ratio for my spline count and box shaft length. I figured it out before I ordered the wrong one. Just got into this so I haven't decided to go with the 16 to 1 ratio or not. I went with a crown brand new box for now. I did not know they changed the spline count sometime after 1977. Learned something new but I thought I knew it all.

[@junkname9983]

I'm a little late to the party but I've never noticed the clunk on my vehicle until I started watching all these YT videos on the steering column and now I'm hearing it all the time and can't unhear it. Ugh. You guys with these videos are going to cost me a couple of hundred bucks to replace it. 😀

[@paulf3067]

I used the Cunningham Machine lower shaft on my 1997 K1500 2-door Hoe, it doesn't have the "pin" problem as the spline part of the U-joint is open all the way through it, you just have to flip the shaft 180 degrees so the set screw is on the bottom in the groove (obviously you have to loctite the set screw and nut), not on the (flat part "top") of the steering gearbox spline shaft. I also installed a Borgeson Upper Steering Shaft BOR000939 to get rid of the piece of crap plastic U-joint at the bottom of the steering column (which was by far the best of the 2 upgrades). You will also have to replace the steering gearbox with a NON-EVO steering gearbox if your truck has EVO steering. I would recommend a 1-ton non-evo steering gearbox as it has a bigger piston and a longer steering ratio which I think drives and steers a lot nicer (especially at higher speeds) in my short wheelbase 2-door hoe.

[@SovereignLivingMan]

So we get the shaft and the box and make all the mods then install.. Glad I saw this vid, thanks dude!

[@robertrobinson2025]

I used an 86-95 Jeep Wrangler steering shaft on my 95 it bolted right in an it goes thru the fire wall to the bottom of the column under the dash I didn’t have to cut anything

[@33dirk33]

Did you look into Cunningham steering shafts? They make a direct replacement u joint shaft

[@josharroyo5549]

Have you looked into the 84-94 Jeep Cherokee shaft? It’s supposed to be compatible with the obs.

[@barrycowan1997]

let us know about the read head box if its actully worth it. i see there reviews are all over the place.

[@brandonarcher4071]

Heard blue top is the best

[@andrelalereon5898]

I wonder if that lower was the actual replacement because doorman makes several lower shafts that actually fit

[@dalehall2993]

That borgenson lower shaft 000301 you bought is for 95-00 obs chevy trucks,tahoes,etc...

[@jamesandersen9024]

LOL, talk about frustrating just went through all that and just basically finished my 99 Tahoe for over landing loved it, and my father-in-law just wrecked it don't know if I should start over or just enjoy watching you.

[@1RoadGarage]

Oh man!! I don’t know what I would do in that situation… 🤦‍♂️

[@ChezJ1]

Oh that sucks man.

[@dennissecor8092]

Great video Jimmy!

[@moisesr2901]

Nice. I just removed mine yesterday to get to cyl 3 spark plug on my blazer 👍

[@zebmccollum]

I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 and I put a Red Head steering box on it. After hours of research and several phone calls, I figured out that I could put a steering box in my truck from a 2500/3500 Express van. That box is identical to a 2500/3500 Silverado/Sierra steering box except that the output shaft has the 4 keyed splines instead of the 3 splines you find in 2500/3500 Silverado/Sierras. So my 1500 has a Red Head steering box basically from a 1 ton and it is awesome. I did not replace the input shaft because I never thought about it. I did replace the intermediate steering column and the steering wheel bearing and it completely eliminated all vibrations in my steering wheel…for about 2 years. It recently started vibrating again.

[@garykendall1376]

I replaced the rag joint a few years ago myself. Drilled out the 5/16 bolt holes to 3/8 and used grade 8 bolts. Still works like new. And minimal cost.

[@MrMonsterMusicMedia]

Why not weld the old spline part on the new shaft?

[@JuanhCjbhvnbtrf]

Nice informative vid!!

[@chezbignw5033]

I have a 1997 Chevy K 1500 would that work on my truck?

[@jonathangarcia4540]

I have an 89 s10 i can not get the shaft off i heated it wd 40 ive tried compressing upper lower part of shaft and nothing any tips on what else i can to or im doing wrong.

[@vigilantemotors]

Jonathan, did you remove the bolt under the boot?

[@jonathangarcia4540]

Yes i did remove bolt i actually got it off already took 3 days and full can of wd 40 but its out thank you

[@vigilantemotors]

@@jonathangarcia4540 Shoot bro I am sorry I just saw this. Glad you got it off, those can be a PIA! If you ever have any other questions hit me up on my channel here I answer all questions given to me. And hey, you may just like my automotive channel enough to subscribe lol Thank you and I hope to see you over there. Aaron

[@joegeorge3367]

i just did this borgeson box and lower shaft for my '68 Bronco. the instructions should have told you to use blue loctite on the allen nuts and bolts on each u-joint and double nut the allen bolts on each u-joint. and the most important note is to drill a hole in the shaft on the flat side and run the allen through the hole. triple protection.

[@Avatheskibidiaplphadog]

He didn't want to void the warranty or have to modify the Red head

[@DavidALovingMPF102]

I replaced my steering gearbox with an upgrade box, about $500. Replaced the 30 year rag joint with a new rag joint. video on youtube. My 1992 GMC truck now steers with one finger. Parts from SUMMIT. Good video, nice sets and lighting.

[@carlodonnell146]

I removed the steering box from my dodge ram some years ago and I tied off the steering wheel too....I think I need to do it again now...as the box is leaking fluid...

[@rustedratchetgarage6788]

Fyi a jeep Cherokee steering shaft is the right spline on the bottom to fit a mustang rack n pinion and the other end fits a gm colum cause they were sourced thru them. junkyard hotrods for all

[@itzmeryangee807]

I had to take needle files and file the splines and cut off the top of the pin. I filed on yoke for 3 days. I hope you painted the steering shaft if you decided to use it

[@joecameron3406]

I put a jeep shaft in my 94 s10 steering response and feel is greatly improved

[@tonyedward6909]

Just replaced mine on 1989 c1500 same problem with borgenson ,could not locate a factory shaft GM no longer available, I finally located a used one.

[@courtney2018]

I have a 99 Tahoe with the same setup. You still have to be careful putting that shaft back on. Even though it only goes on "one way" there's some play in there. First time I reattached it my steering was off about 30 degrees. Wheel didn't move. It was locked. I loosened and rotated as much as possible with the wheel locked and slide back on...perfect. Watch out for that!

[@jackpepperdine8756]

I done thay already donor modify that just pull the flat screw and the nipple will will b able to lower but soon as u slide the shaft on u need to tighter that screw back down or u cant slide the shaft all the way down itll bind.hope this helps u

[@Karkmotuning]

Nice video, and good thing you didn't just give in and started cutting and modifying. To me it's weird that aftermarket products never seem to fit without modification, like they started with a good idea, but the manufacturer never tried if it actually fits and works.

[@Tommy_Mac]

Replace the original with OEM. The original lasted this long. This is a common deal with aftermarket stuff. Rarely does it work without modification. The Borgeson splined coupling should have the facility to use the factory retaining bolt. It's the only thing preventing the coupling from sliding off the steering gear input shaft. The single set screw is not a good design, and in my view, is unsafe. It should also have been counter bored to accept the "pin".

[@dacooldood1234]

Hell i'd bore it myself. And tap a new set screw just to make it work

[@kevinsellsit5584]

@@dacooldood1234 Not the same as having a spline that CLAMPS tight around the box shaft and can not come off even if the bolt gets loose. The set screw is lame because it doesn't tighten the splines up and it will get smashed and loosen every time. Boring for the pin will melt the rubber dampener and it could fall apart.

[@kellybergin1532]

Put a new rag joint in,done after market junk don't fit, I don't care where it's made!!

[@chriskennedy8525]

Usually rag joints are made from used tires. They tend to last forever in old lawnmowers. Though i have seen them in old machines made of denim jeans. Really just a round or square pice of flexible material and some bolts. Amazingly simple.

[@walterk1221]

I think I would discuss with Borgeson the dimensions of the splined end of the shaft with a drawing set for a machine shop to modify it. Proceed, then, with your original plan.

[@1RoadGarage]

Thanks, yes I talked to them a few times. Not really willing to make out a drawing. I’m sure they already know about this.

[@walterk1221]

@@1RoadGarage you are very welcome and I echo the surprise expressed by others that Borgeson does not have a product that will fit without modification. I believe more GM trucks are sold than Dodge/Ram yet I can get steering shafts that fit without modification. Puzzling... I wish you success in your endeavor.

[@donaldkent3730]

My gear box did not have a pin to prevent the rag joint from fitting on the splines. You can also drill a place for the set screw to fit on the flat side.

[@TR19]

I like the new video style and set

[@troyjohnson6023]

I replaced my rag joint in my g body with a factory replacement from a 91 Jeep Grand Cherokee.. it’s u joint but replacements can be picked up from local parts store…. It fit with no modification. My China made shaft had to be heated at the collapsing area to get it to collapse enough for my application but it’s all the correct splines and also the correct spline/bolt locations for factory fit

[@benkanobe7500]

Jimmy, didn't we see you install a "Dorman" complete shaft so wouldn't that make this one not the original or do I have my OneRoads mixed up?? I did warn you that I looked into these (by the way, I am at "3:28" so I haven't cheated)....

[@Nova-lz2yz]

That was a different vehicle