2,000+ Mile Engine Checkup & Long Rides On A Two-Stroke Racing Scooter : RC1 : Part 16

[@dc3763]

Nice job man! Keep on going! :)

[@robertpierce1981]

That bread thing is very cool. Worthy of a “short” video

[@KacKLaPPeN23]

That's amazing fuel economy holy crap. I got round about 35mpg back in the day with my Aerox, which is running a quite mild setup because it's super illegal to ride modified scooters on public roads here. DR Evo 70cc sport, 19mm phbg carb, modified stock airbox and a Gianelli Shot v4. Still have that thing but haven't moved it since I got my car license, it's super fun but not fun enough to lose your license over.

[@49ccscoot]

You don't have to use much throttle with the RC1, so that probably helps. When I built lower revving torquey setups, some of them did quite well. I got around 70MPG when riding for mileage on a 96cc Vino clone and it had enough power for wheelies and 60+MPH.

[@zoniyat8519]

I could listen to that baby scream alllll day long for sure! I highly appreciate all the info you share with the scoot community 🤙 you are a role model to me

[@jmrides777]

Great vid bud! Very informative and got the gears in my skull moving. Interesting content so good on you.

[@robertpierce1981]

I really like these length segments. I really like the underslung camera view also

[@49ccscoot]

I got a 3rd GoPro because my 2nd was in for repair when I was about to head to TN. Figured I might as well use it.

[@ItsMe-dj8zd]

As I’ve said before I’ve very pleasantly surprised how well these motors hold up. Probably about time I pull mine apart.

[@opichocal]

I did an iron butt with my Zuma 125 last year. 1000 Miles in 23hrs 45 min! Man that kicked my butt and the total miles were 1209. Two months ago I rode from Dallas to pikes peak and back. That trip was insane and I came home with 21 nails in my tires. That little Yamaha is a workhorse

[@49ccscoot]

I think around 500 is my most miles in a day and it was probably 20 hours, but I was creeping around a lot doing a scavenger hunt. I never knew the iron butt was more than just something people said they had till recently finding out about the 1,000 mile challenge in 24 hours. It's definitely a different challenge on the small scoot, but a task on anything.

[@flakey7832]

great info

[@александрматешов-б5ю]

👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥

[@jessebunch621]

your a badass man, been watching you for years. ever since the overrange video. talk about meticulous. i actually have a yamaha aerox here in the states, its got all evo2. anyway i havent seen you mention what final gearing u run in the rc1?

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks! I've never even seen an Aerox in person. I've got the ~10.3:1 gears.

[@bb_adrians4672]

Almost 4000km on an 94cc Testa Rossa - that's beyond impressive! Most guys in Europe change the whole cylinder after 1000-1500km because of not properly tuning the carb or using bad cooling methods, which leads to cylinder seizing or worse. Im properly amazed! Also, would you ever try a bigger carb, for expample, a PWK 30mm or Keihin Air Striker 33mm? I know it's pricey and pretty pointless for daily riding, but for quarter mile times or top speed, would be fun to see if it makes a dramatic change and if i't justifies spending 200+ for a simple carb.

[@49ccscoot]

I'd like to try a 34mm in the future. That seems like the go-to carb for most "upgraders" with an RC-1. That's what Ryan uses and it works well, but there's such a big weight difference and now he uses a different exhaust, so who knows what does what from that. I'd need to figure out which intake to use. His carb keeps falling out. The intake just won't hold it anymore so it has to be zip tied to keep it from pushing out. Something with more supple rubber like the Malossi intake that I'm using now would be better I think.

[@bb_adrians4672]

@@49ccscoot Yes, the carb falling off is an issue because 30mm+ carbs have a 39mm intake instead of 35mm. We use an intake from the Polini P.R.E 100cc (Polini P215.0458) and it works beautifully. If i remember correctly the holes even align so its practically a straight on fit. Only problem is getting hands on one - most of them are out of stock, maybe even unavailable where you live.

[@MrFlobot69]

Try swapping the coil springs out on those shocks

[@Retrojunk0]

Hey I was curious if you thought it’d be possible/safe to hack up a 02-11 yamaha zuma rear wheel and turning down the center of it to use as a hub adapter for a bugeye zuma considering no one makes them anymore !?

[@49ccscoot]

Other people have done it with various scoots. As long as care is taken, it can work.

[@Retrojunk0]

Now it’s time to find a machine shop that would consider doing it , im looking to put some 10” dwt polished wheels on my bugeye 🤷‍♂️

[@niknovsak3288]

Awesome! Im thinking about getting into scooters and stuff, and if you know how much maintenance does lets say a 72cc need? I dont want to be changing pistons every 300km.

[@49ccscoot]

A good 70cc sport can be about as reliable as a stock scoot. The more you push RPM and power, the less reliable it's going to be. A 70cc sport is way more powerful than a stock 49cc though, and a good scoot to ride IMO. I used to have a mild 70cc on the shelf as an emergency backup.

[@mansikkamies9146]

Id run it a slightly rich and replace the piston when it loses power or compression

[@niknovsak3288]

@@mansikkamies9146 so lets say instead of 2% I'd make 4% or 5?

[@niknovsak3288]

@@49ccscoot so if i have a stock 49cc, what do i have to change if i upgrade the cylinder and piston to 70cc?

[@49ccscoot]

@@niknovsak3288 For the most basic, you can bolt on something like a Polini Sport kit and tune the carb and change rollers for best performance. If you want more power you can add an exhaust and then you may also need stiffer clutch springs and a carburetor upgrade may be beneficial. Stick with something that revs ~10,000RPM or less and it should be able to last, but you can upgrade the crank if you choose.

[@GrumpyUnkMillions]

I would have kept the original piston/ring as I think the clearance is a bit over-rated. As long as the piston doesn't flip around. The parts wore into each other and would likely have gone for a good long while with no change. Of course it is time for a new vid... That thing sound like a Stihl chainsaw connected to your rear wheel. More or less looking at the bore and pistone croen you didn't have to do anything. Just my opinion. tom

[@49ccscoot]

I would have changed the ring at least, as the end gap was way over spec and I bought a spare when I got the engine. I don't necessarily disagree, which is why I went back and forth a bit. This is a better quality kit than I'm used to, so normally I'm not seeing anything settle in. With cheaper stuff, north of 0.005" can start having piston slap. If the implication is that this was done for video, that's wrong. I do this stuff because I live for scoots. Sure, there's stuff I do because I think it will be interesting... but I'm legitimately interested in it myself. I do see things like this as an opportunity to share useful info. Yes, I always hope that people will watch. Even if you watch me screwing around at shows and stuff, that's me. Turn the cameras off and I'll do the same thing. I've got the driving record to prove it from way before I filmed anything. If I misunderstood what you were saying, I'm sorry. I could make more money by being fake, following trends, promoting manscaping products, asking you to buy my merch or donate in every vid... but I've stuck with being me and being broke instead so the idea that people would think I'm just looking for views kinda sucks to me. Again, if I read into your comment wrong, my apologies.

[@GrumpyUnkMillions]

The new vid comment was more or less a joke, with nothing implied, and you did not go into the actual work involved. I just am the kind of person who examines the parts, determines if still workable and reliable, and goes from there. You ride longer distances when you go out 50(brother in Salisbury) than I ever do, and want to avoid that call 'bring the truck' so have a different mindset. Given the new parts were a bit off from the published spec, they may be a 'wish we could' make parts that tightly controlled, but sell what they actually produce . Most piston engines have a lot of forgiveness and will work pretty well even out of tolerance. My frugality says use it until it doesn't work(well). You need more reliability than that. I do think the parts were settling in, not worn out, from the appearance, performance and what the piston crown looked like. The new parts likely were still bedding in a bit causing a little loss of performance until they loosened up a bit and the rings were seated a bit better. I am not a 2T expert by any means, but wonder if comparisons to the 'life' of components in chainsaws would be the closest thing, and they are not run as hard for lengthy periods so likely would have rest/relief times when they could cool a bit. Really have no idea how to tell when it is 'time' to re-ring or more. tom

[@49ccscoot]

@@GrumpyUnkMillions I think MX is the nearest comparison. Maybe karts. Most of them use hours to determine teardown and re-ring times to my understanding. I'm certain I'm well over the hours they'd go by, but I'm sitting at lights and tooling around and generally trying to enjoy the ride rather than rooster tails in turns and flying through the air or trying to make podiums. I'm also curious to see if the dragy shows any change now that I've had 130 more miles since the vid of riding around at Bikefest. Some of my two-strokes would seem to run better with fresh stuff, totally the opposite of what many say... but again the RC-1 is a different level than the iron bores that I'm most accustomed to. Thanks for the comments BTW.

[@paulbudford]

It must give you a bit more confidence doing some miles now, it's not breaking belts like before.

[@49ccscoot]

A whole lot. I constantly had to track mileage and then consider if I wanted to risk riding past 150 or so. Now I rarely think about it.