$2.66 Ford 5.0 Mustang Bronco F150 Smog Pump Budget Delete

[@confucious_of_babbel8481]

Replacement belt listed by a Ford forum is a Gates K06966 belt (97&1/8”). The original is 102” it looked like just skip air pump and go alternator to water pump. I had to special order from advanced auto. Takes 5 days.

[@percillasamora5358]

)o

[@confucious_of_babbel8481]

Time=Value of Money. Always think before you cut, but cut before you spend too much time on it. Always spend a few days to drench bolts in rust breaker of any kind.

[@hectorpinero1179]

Your video save me in the middle of nowhere…. Your the man thanks for share

[@jr540123]

Dig the idea of keeping a gutted pump, save's a good 40 bucks on a new belt and guarantee's if you're in a pinch one is in stock somewhere.

[@MainelyCannabis]

Amazing video! Question on the vacuum pump lines. How would the truck respond if you just take the pully from the air pump and run a shorter belt. Then leaving all the lines alone after? No caps on any lines or disconnecting anything. Will this hurt the engine or cause any problems? Thanks again! Cheers

[@theBdunklee]

I think it would be fine if you only removed the pulley and tan a smaller belt. Just left the lines connected

[@confucious_of_babbel8481]

Just use a 3/4 steel plug on the top air diverter valve with aluminum permatex

[@nothanks9184]

Wait so you put a bolt in the thread hole in the back of the head, but there's 2 holes one for the air and one for the bolt... Hence why the aftermarket solution has a bolt and block off plate?

[@theBdunklee]

The hole itself is threaded

[@nothanks9184]

@@theBdunklee so both holes, 2 for each side are threaded?

[@gassprint1]

just out of curiosity, the rear head pipe, couldn't you have just unscrewed i think the metal valve and plugged it there instead of making grub screws for the heads?

[@theBdunklee]

TOBY BENNINGHOFF yea, that would work too, I just wanted to clean up the engine from all the smog stuff on it

[@confucious_of_babbel8481]

Cost is $1.34 for a 3/4” steel plug

[@KeithSaggio]

How do you get around check engine codes for a 1996?

[@danieldouglas1330]

Any reason to not delete the egr valve too? My dad deleted our pump with a shorter belt but same as you left the egr. I’m thinking of deleting it with a cover and capping the tube to the exhaust. They make a attachment for the sensor on the egr valve to tell the computer it’s still working. Thoughts? I appreciate the video. My engine is in and it helped to see the holes you plugged to make sure mine are plugged too.

[@theBdunklee]

I would delete the egr as well. There is some talk that egr helps cool the compressed air and reduce detonation but I think it will do your truck good.

[@danieldouglas1330]

@@theBdunklee Cool! Thanks for the response.

[@connerjacobson5585]

Question, how do I remove the solid lines next to the headers? Can't seem to get them out of the clamps? Thanks for this video btw

[@theBdunklee]

Conner Jacobson you can unbolt them from the exhaust manifold studs. The lines are connected to the tabs that are bolted to the studs. I removed the steel lines with the rubber attached. Not sure if I fully answered your question. Let me know if I didn’t!

[@connerjacobson5585]

@@theBdunklee thank you that's what I was wondering, I'm doing it with the engine still in the truck so it's kind of a pain in the ass lol. Thank you for the quick response

[@connerjacobson5585]

@@theBdunklee you gained a subscriber for that lol👍

[@theBdunklee]

Conner Jacobson lol, thanks for the motivation, it really helps!

[@connerjacobson5585]

@@theBdunklee another question, when you put the 9/16 x 12 bolts in the back of the block did you fill in the smaller hole that was right next to it?

[@confucious_of_babbel8481]

From what I read skip the pulley and use a smaller serpentine belt.

[@theBdunklee]

Jamie Hotchkin yes, I would do that if I didn’t just buy this belt

[@theBdunklee]

Jamie Hotchkin but I don’t think all of the Ford motors can just do this.

[@confucious_of_babbel8481]

@@theBdunklee mine is for a 93 f250 xlt, 4x4 with a/c

[@confucious_of_babbel8481]

Sorry, also 5.8l

[@leechao9185]

What smaller size belt do I get?

[@Williams_Workshop]

Are you sure that 9/16 bolt won't interfere with the engine internals? I put the 9/16 coarse thread bolt in and it worked. But shouldn't you cut it to about 1/2" to not interfere with the valves? Also I used red threadlocker. You want to seize the bolt not lubricate it.

[@theBdunklee]

William's Workshop I haven’t had any issues with the length of the bolt I used. I put thread sealer on it

[@Williams_Workshop]

@@theBdunklee Ok that's good. What length bolt was it? Thanks

[@theBdunklee]

William's Workshop I think it was 1-1/4 inch long

[@shanea-sr7942]

Thanks for video I'm heading out to do this now saves me some money!!!!

[@theBdunklee]

For sure! Good luck!

[@WojciechP915]

Is this the same for all 5.0 years? I have an 87.

[@theBdunklee]

Bill T they are all really similar and pretty much the same. Some don’t have holes in the head that need to be plugged. Some smog pumps are in slightly different locations. From what I’ve seen they are almost the same

[@torjohnson8734]

It took me all day to get those 2 bolts holding the pump off. The front one was stuck real bad and the back one was real hard to get to. I can't figure out how it's still attached though. Where the top bolt goes there's like an inner shaft thing that it swings on. Do i need to tap that thing in our pull it out. I can't figure it out. Can you please help?

[@theBdunklee]

Tor Johnson no, if you removed the bolts, you should be able to pry it off. If it hasn’t been off in awhile, it may need some work to get it off. Just make sure all the bolts are out and try to find a good spot to pry on.

[@torjohnson8734]

@@theBdunklee i guesse is diffrent on the e150. The bottom is free i can swing the bottom but the top has some sort of metal tube holding it on. Maybe I'll just hit it with a hammer

[@theBdunklee]

Tor Johnson lol, a big enough hammer should get it off. It might be slightly different on the vans.

[@torjohnson8734]

@@theBdunklee yes! The ole hammer trick worked! Now just to gut it and put it back on. Thanks

[@theBdunklee]

Tor Johnson glad it worked out! Subscribe for more stuff and let me know how it turns out when you put it back together!

[@Austin2276]

What about the top holes? Will that leak out air?

[@theBdunklee]

Top holes on the vacuum solenoids?

[@torjohnson8734]

I'm thinking about doing this to my e150 5.0. How'd all this turn out for you? Anything you'd do diffrent?

[@theBdunklee]

Tor Johnson it turned out fine. You can see and hear the truck running in another of my videos. I wouldn’t do anything different.

[@theBdunklee]

Tor Johnson Bolts to plug the holes were 9/16-12 NC

[@alexw.4933]

Melted Piston what benefit does this have

[@theBdunklee]

Alex W. Gain a little more power and gas mileage because the engine doesn’t have to pump air into the exhaust

[@alexw.4933]

Melted Piston I bet my mustang already had the sump deleted then, everything else like that’s already been deleted be previous owner, but I’ll still be sure to check. I’m definitely gonna do this on my bronco though

[@lemkelegion]

Have a way for me to message you? I have question and would appreciate the help regarding this stuff.

[@theBdunklee]

The42car feel free to message me here if you want

[@jasonpalacios6319]

Need to address the pipe to the exhaust that needs to be plugged as well

[@theBdunklee]

Jason Palacios Most of these Ford trucks/mustangs don’t have piping to the exhaust. They use the holes in the head that were plugged.

[@confucious_of_babbel8481]

My exhaust is messed up anyway cut it all out, replace o2 sensor. Try to find after market tubing and parts to be able to bolt up and keep cheap.

[@confucious_of_babbel8481]

Put 75 ohm resistors on the air pump diverter sensors

[@confucious_of_babbel8481]

Check recent comments if you are still having trouble I can try to help if you still need it. You can keep egr.

[@birddog79]

Two things is this possible with a 96 f150 being and OBD2 system and could you just run a shorter belt? Thanks for any advice.

[@theBdunklee]

Yes and yes, I did it like this because the belt was new and I didn’t want to buy a new belt

[@theBdunklee]

You might get a CEL for the cats not working properly

[@jasonpalacios6319]

You didn’t actually delete the pump ! Why didn’t you just leave it off and go with a 2inch shorter belt ?

[@theBdunklee]

Jason Palacios the pump is not a pump because it does not pump air anymore without the veins. A bolt head is in the way for the belt reroute and I did not want to shave the bolt head. Yes, you could shave the bolt head, use my method, or get the idler with ac pulley method.

[@nicholasweseman9704]

Now that he took the veins out it is an idler pulley and a 2 inch shorter belt cost money

[@theBdunklee]

Nicholas Weseman lol, Nick knows

[@jasonpalacios6319]

@@nicholasweseman9704 if a $20 belt is the issue and not that the pump bearing that fails majority of the time isn’t I just find the title of delete not correct terminology. Maybe modifying should have been used.

[@nicholasweseman9704]

@@jasonpalacios6319 its his video, and yes he did delete the pump. By definition it is no long a pump..thus it is deleted. Go troll somewhere else