Full Smog Delete 5.8L Windsor Ford Bronco/F150: what it takes

[@kevsta67]

fantastic video. no useless chit chat. very thorough and to the point instructions.

[@ChaseGentry]

Glad it was helpful!

[@claypage8]

Awesome video man. I’m starting a delete on my 351W. Curious if you could tell me if vacuum hoses under the three plugs you put resistors on come off? Can you explain the resistor install? Did you have any idle issues after the delete? Thanks in advance! 💪

[@ChaseGentry]

I used resistors from fiveologyracing.com

[@thomasmiller5781]

Thanks!

[@ChaseGentry]

Did you send me $2 🫶🏻🥹 that’s a first for me if so thank you

[@chaz-mi1ch]

Great video! Very informative, I watched probably 20 videos on the subject and got pretty much all the info to start and complete the job in this one video! Mahalo brah! New sub!

[@ChaseGentry]

Awesome, thank you!

[@RonaldMcDonald6969]

96 bronco with the 351 was my first ride. loved that thing.

[@ChaseGentry]

They’re great trucks!

[@Russell-e2n]

@@ChaseGentrycurious as to why you put it back on? Were you having issues. Thinking about doing this to my 302

[@ChaseGentry]

@@Russell-e2n kept throwing 311 code causing CEL. No drivability issues but light annoyed me. So threw egr back on to remedy the annoyance.

[@johnemanolis]

I have a 92 Flareside, 302 auto 2 wheel drive. I desmoged mine long ago. Just put a piece of sheet metal over the EGR. Blocked the heads with allen plugs. Remove all the tubing, hoses, vacuum lines , cans, pumps, and cut the smog bracket. So it looks like it was never there. Eventually i plan on a engine build. GT40 heads, with a GT short block and long tube headers. Would like to have seen your resister installation.

[@ChaseGentry]

I’ll be doing an update next video 😉

[@matiasramonot5321]

when did u do to delete the erg plug? u bought the dummy one or what cuz that shits expensive

[@Acaidia]

@@matiasramonot5321 You don't delete the plug you just plug it into the dummy one instead of the EGR so the computer thinks the EGR is still connected. All the EGR dummy plug does, at least in theory, is get rid of the check engine light. If you don't care about a check engine light then you don't need it. FYI I've heard people say they still get a CEL with the dummy plug but I've also heard people say that it got rid of theirs.

[@billypirtle1443]

I am glad my smog pump had a v belt to it off the crankshaft the other belt run everything else did not need th other pulles and did not have to have that dummy plug took mine off right after the factory warranty run out. Mine is a 1997 400 motor ordered it from factory with this motor. Dealer said I could not get that motor I drive trucks for a living stopped by ford where thy make them and in two weeks it was at the ford Dealership. Everything I ordered there was on it and cost less money than the dealer wanted for a 302 motor in it.

[@mikem8828]

Well now I have a weekend project!

[@thenomadrhodes]

awesome video thank you. I wish they made all these parts for a 460.

[@chelosauthentic]

Thanks, it's coming out nice 👍

[@ChaseGentry]

No problem 👍

[@mengley1]

Whoa, you showed a mess of new parts purchased to go in the Bronco right at the end. Did you video those upgrades? Will those be posted soon? I’m not ever going to buy a new Bronco, but I am actively shopping for a 94-96 Bronco and I want to see videos on these upgrades!! Let’s go!!!

[@ChaseGentry]

The 94 will be appearing more frequently on the channel moving forward. New stuff getting thrown at it more regularly now. I just uploaded another on this truck yesterday actually 🤘🏻

[@sawmillguy9706]

The 75 ohm resistors recommended in the delete video burned up on my 95 f150 with 4.9l six. Purchased some higher wattage rated resistors and now waiting on them to arrive. We'll see what happens...

[@ChaseGentry]

I ended up buying a set from fiveologyracing.com

[@dresoto3188]

I deleted it all and went with a smaller belt. I also got some long tube headers without the egr plug port.

[@ChaseGentry]

Nice definitely another great way to go!

[@calebpeach2540]

with the egr delete how did your truck respond driving wise

[@ChaseGentry]

@@calebpeach2540 no difference really however no matter what bypasses I did I kept throwing a CEL. I ended up re installing it.

[@grantbuynack5132]

@@ChaseGentry Did you reinstall just to get the engine light out? Or did something else come up that persuaded you to throw it back on? Just checking before I pull the trigger on this project. Thanks! Love the OBS content!

[@TwohawksLuna-ze6sg]

has anyone tried to use the smog air pump, like a turbo,

[@Oranday93]

What do you recommend for a bad dash

[@ChaseGentry]

OBS interiors

[@CaneIn850]

Awesome video 👍👍👍

[@ChaseGentry]

Thanks for the visit

[@accoliteofficial3651]

Can you update us when you come to a close on this? Like the valve that sits infront of where the egr once was. And what youve done with your resisters after the fact. Along with the tab and tad sensors. Much thanks brother.

[@ChaseGentry]

So I ended up ordering a tad delete kit from FIVEOLOGYRQCING fiveologyracing.com/product/thermactor-tab-tad-eliminator-kit/ I’m still throwing an CEL though 311 to be specific and 332. 332 will not trigger a check engine light but 311 does. Trying to couple other things this week to pinpoint a solution

[@toxicmetalgearlance3104]

Hi was you able to get the Resistors put in for the EGR delete, im looking to see how you did that. thanks

[@ChaseGentry]

I ended up running a resistor kit from fiveology.com and reinstalled egr as the simulator was a fail. Now have no codes/ no cel/ and runs great.

[@willwalt6374]

What brand oil pump you use and any issue ?

[@Willys4x4]

awesome instructions ...

[@samuelalfred3731]

Can I do this with my 1996 f150 with a 351w

[@ChaseGentry]

Yes

[@samuelalfred3731]

@@ChaseGentry thank you for the reply sir also i have the obd2 will that make a difference?

[@user-vq3dc2se5d]

I would advise against this 100%, The top end of the engine stays cooler with smogs pump working and you will be having problem big time very soon with the over working of your computer to keep your truck running right, It’s controlling the fuel and open and closing of the EGR and your crank sensor will not know when to advance timing, This will effect your fuel mileage and smell of gas bad. Just keep it in good condition and enjoy your truck,

[@DanielRundellpnw833]

question do you get more horsepower when you do this and if so how much more

[@ChaseGentry]

No HP gains to speak of

[@DanielRundellpnw833]

@@ChaseGentry thanks for getting back to me

[@ChaseGentry]

@@DanielRundellpnw833 no problem

[@user-vq3dc2se5d]

It helps keep the top end of engine cool by vacuuming the heads to keep them cool. It also helps burn the gasses that didn’t burn, Leave your smogs alone, You get extra 1 to 2 mPG with smogs systems on

[@DanielRundellpnw833]

@user-vq3dc2se5d good to know thanks for the tip

[@ricardotrevino4401]

Would you show how to install the resistors?

[@ChaseGentry]

I ended up ordering a kit from fiveologyracing

[@joefischer-uo1ux]

75 ohm resistors with 12 volts across them will dissipate 2 watts. P=V2/R. Better not use 1/4 watt resistors

[@stevenbryant4917]

I’m running lean and I still need to know how you ran your lines when you removed your coffee can

[@FrankPadula-vp4jg]

Thanks i just wonder if this works on a 96 302

[@dresoto3188]

75 omh but what thickness on those resistors?

[@ChaseGentry]

I ordered a kit from fiveologyracing.com

[@ME-pw3kc]

Does anyone know the size of the smog pump pulley bolts? Broke one in half and the other two are different sizes. Its a cali truck not ready to take smog stuff off. 95 5.8

[@ChaseGentry]

Uff I have no idea

[@Mix_master_302]

I'm confused did you delete your AC compressor?

[@ChaseGentry]

lol definitely not!

[@Mix_master_302]

@@ChaseGentry so the delete kit is just for the smog pump right

[@Hillbilly_cooks]

So when i did mine, I didn't replace the air pump I just got a smaller belt and there were. O issues

[@henrynemeyer3741]

What belt did you use? And you do happen to have a diagram by chance too?

[@chrisdrews2848]

Great vid! I know you gave OBS Broncos, but will this work the same for a 1988 Bronco 5.0? Thanks!

[@ChaseGentry]

It should

[@garrettmoore522]

Currently doing the same thing to my f250 what are the thermactor plug delete you have in the links? Arnt thoes the plugs you used the resistors in

[@ChaseGentry]

I picked them up from fiveologyracing.com

[@garrettmoore522]

@@ChaseGentry yes what are they actually for tho? Do they go in place of the 7ohm resistors

[@patrickdee6646]

This is a video I really did need to see... I have a 92 f350 custom with a 5.8 factory no a/c. Just wanted to know if this is legal in Colorado as we do have emissions out here???

[@JimPudar]

Lol probably not

[@CosmologicalNonsense]

How did you end up plugging the bung on the catalytic converter where the metal air injector tube went? Great vid BTW.

[@ChaseGentry]

Welded it 🤘

[@bradyreser2775]

Is there anything that connects to catalytic converter that needs plugged? Also solutions for plugging egr tube on manifold/ headers with egr tube?

[@rayraysalsero]

Did you ordered all this thru ebay?

[@ChaseGentry]

Links in description

[@Farmtractorrescue]

i ordered all these parts and did mine. The resistors are now burning up as soon as I start the truck. Any idea on why this is happening? I also have low power now and fault code 311 with engine light on.

[@iHeartOiSkanks]

How are you going to get it to pass smog check?

[@ChaseGentry]

Don’t have smog in Texas.

[@ChristianRaymondFilms]

@@ChaseGentrythat’s why you Don’t Mess with Texas 🔥🔥

[@ChaseGentry]

😈🤣🤘🏻

[@iHeartOiSkanks]

@@ChaseGentry Well im from california and im going to move to texas to make sure you have to smog check your bronco.

[@lukedusett3386]

Ok here’s a question about the 75ohm resistors for the EGR, TAD and TAB solenoids. I did this mod and the resistors in both the TAD and TAB keep blowing so I throw I CEL code. How has this been working for you and have you had any issues?

[@ChaseGentry]

I ended up ordering from fiveologyracing.com fixed the problem and reinstalled egr.

[@yormi6635]

Brother, in the video you don't say what you did with the tube that comes out of the intake chamber, if you covered it or what you did with it.

[@ChaseGentry]

Intake chamber?? Are you talking about the EGR tube that fastens to the right exhaust manifold? If so I welded the tube connector and just threaded it back into exhaust manifold.

[@samcoolidge5988]

What size and what type of wrench did you use to get the plugs on the back of the engine? Box wrench, ratchet, etc. Thanks!

[@ChaseGentry]

Ratcheting wrench I think it was a 1/2

[@rickmavictime756]

The three valves on the driver's side where you put the 75 ohm resistor taking each pigtail and jumping from one post to the other with the 75 ohms? and what did you do with the vacuum lines are they no longer needed and need to be plugged off?

[@ChaseGentry]

I used a resistor kit from fiveologyracing.com and yea plug the lines 😮‍💨

[@brianbush3143]

I see in the comments you reinstalled the egr! Why?

[@ChaseGentry]

Kept throwing cel.

[@brianbush3143]

So the resistors didn’t work?

[@ChaseGentry]

@@brianbush3143egr simulator was junk resistor I went with fiveologyracing.com those worked great to keep TAB/TAD deleted

[@brianbush3143]

Did the engine run rough when it threw the cel?

[@sharktank7497]

How did you wind up doing the resistors? I deleted my Egr and the check engine light keeps coming on. Thinking of trying the resistors.

[@ChaseGentry]

Fiveologyracing.com

[@ChaseGentry]

They have a resistor kit that I ordered

[@outcastedone4154]

I have a 96 f250 5.8, I did the quick an easy poor man's delete (only removed pulley itself and ran a smaller belt bypassing upper Idler and no smog pulley, and only did blocker plate where egr goes, and a plug on the egr line.. would only doing it that way cause issue? Drove it for a while that way ran better but still has idle issues (partially due to bad Ecu)

[@ChaseGentry]

I actually reinstalled the EGR because it kept throwing check engine light

[@dr.rockzo7193]

Not sure if I missed it but how did you end up plugging where the egr tube connected at the exhaust manifold?

[@ChaseGentry]

What I did initially was pull the male/male threaded tube connector out of and took it get be welded. BUT.. I ended up putting EGR back on as no matter what I tried having egr off kept throwing a 311 code triggering CEL. I ordered a resistor kit from fiveologyracing.com/product/thermactor-tab-tad-eliminator-kit/ for tab/tad now I have no lights and truck runs great.

[@hunterland8832]

@@ChaseGentryso that part works for the tab and tad do you still have the resistor on the other plug?

[@patherron3247]

Regarding the plug that fools the computer, is it necessary to some function of the computer, or soley to keep check engine light off? They're kinda proud of that plug, and I'm kinda poor at the moment.

[@ChaseGentry]

Little of both. Truck with run obviously but may affect proper drivability if it thinks get is open

[@mattjones8206]

I know some of the parts will be a little different but is the overall process the same for a 1995 ford F250 460 (7.5 gas)? Such as the ohm resistors and EGR dummy plug?

[@ChaseGentry]

Yes

[@tjbii2nd]

Chase. I started my delete 6 months ago. Purchased the EGR Simulator Eliminator kit, Thermactor Kit, Idler Bracket, 75ohm resistors and followed the same path you have completed. My issue I have yet to to solve the puzzle my check engine light stays on with codes 334, 337, 558, 212. I broke down and have taken it to two reputable shops and they couldn’t solve the issues as well. Both told me I would need to have a custom computer where the EGR is eliminated $1500 to 2k. They didn’t speak very highly about the EGR elimination kits. Are you having the same issues? Any advice? I’m leaning towards reinstalling the EGR and TAB/TAD to see if I can get the voltage issue corrected.

[@ChaseGentry]

Yes I ran resistors from fiveologyracing.com and reinstalled egr.

[@cassandralesh8536]

When i did mine i just used a shorter belt.

[@brycejohnson4769]

Have you messed around with smog deletes on a carbed 351w? I have an 1987 that I’m going to be attempting this on shortly. Hard to find any info on the carbed ones, most parts look similar but there are vacuum lines everywhere. Should I be good to plug everything I see?

[@ChaseGentry]

No, sorry but it should be similar

[@harley_benoit]

Did the EGR simulator work for you? I did the same thing to my 94 F150 5.8L about a month ago. Truck runs great but I am still getting the 332 code that should be eliminated by the simulator. I used the same one from the same company that you did

[@ChaseGentry]

After the EGR Eliminator is installed, when checking computer codes it is normal to receive a code 33 / 332. Although this code exists, it will not trigger the CEL unless other codes are also present.

[@ChaseGentry]

I did however have issues with the TAD & TAB solenoid delete. Literally ordered a kit today that I came across to solve the CEL for that specifically. fiveologyracing.com/product/thermactor-tab-tad-eliminator-kit/

[@harley_benoit]

@@ChaseGentry Thank you! I did not know that the 332 code would not trigger CEL. My CEL comes on every time I drive now so it must be one of the other codes. So does having the 332 code present not affect anything with how the engine runs? I am also throwing codes 558, 311, and 172. The 558 and 311 seem to point to the TAB, TAD, and EGR control solenoids. The 172 is for the O2 sensor. Did you get these codes also?

[@harley_benoit]

@@ChaseGentry Thank you for the link also! I did not know such a kit was available. I already cut the connectors off and soldered in resistors lol but I can probably find some connectors in a junk yard and solder them back in. Let me know if the kit solves the issue for you please

[@ChaseGentry]

@@harley_benoit will do! Hopefully will have my kit when I get back from Michigan tomorrow

[@tomday3677]

hey my smog pump is long gone by previous owner, using smaller belt. so I have no bolts for the AC delete bracket... any ideas? also since you are knowledgeable, I am getting 327 code with KOEO.. EVP voltage? will this delete solve that? or is it one of the parts mounted over by the coil pack? where should I start looking/testing. '95 F250 5.8L 4x4

[@cesarolvera9191]

i have 91 f150 with the 302/5.0, and everything looks similar, my air pump has already been removed with a differnt size belt, do you think those parts would work with that year model?

[@ChaseGentry]

They should but definitely do your due diligence when ordering to confirm

[@prescott793]

I gotta f-250 1995 5.8 v8 obs. Just curious, why would I do this? More power or better mpg? What's the point

[@ChaseGentry]

Usually it’s when the vacuum lines start crumbling away to nothing, smog pump making noises due to wear. Or if an egr is not working to just pull it off.

[@user-vq3dc2se5d]

I would leave the smog stuff alone, It’s job is to vacuum out the top end of the engine and open and close the EGR to burn gasses that didn’t burn and helps more than it hurts, I have the 1996 flair side 4.9 with the 5 speed, 2.73 rear end, I get 19 to 24 MPH, it has 264000 miles and runs as good as the day it was new. 100% original

[@chrisdrews2848]

I am getting ready to do this on my 88 Bronco 5.0. I am keeping egr. The EGR solenoid on the driver's side that has a vacuum line running to egr, did you just run it straight to manifold for vacuum since vacuum canister is gone?

[@ChaseGentry]

I ended up reinstalling the canisters next video I’ll do an update

[@danielboettcher3860]

When are you going to be doing an update video on this? I am installing a crate engine now and I have gotten everything you said and done everything you said in this video and now I see you are backtracking on putting some stuff back. When can we expect an update video because I want to put this engine back in my truck. Thanks for all your hard work but I am kind of in limbo here​@@ChaseGentry

[@ChaseGentry]

@@danielboettcher3860 short version: I installed resistors from fiveologyracing.com and reinstalled egr dummy plugs were not reliable. Everything else same in video.

[@AMCguy]

Do not remove the egr unless you plan on doing a custom MAP computer otherwise you'll get some funky idling problems

[@ChaseGentry]

Actually put egr back on

[@ericdreher8902]

Any chance of a follow up to this? How did the resistor deal come out? Rig running good? CEL light come on?

[@trentonmcclellanify]

This describes my truck, I’m thinking that’s probably what the previous owner did, which I’ve been trying to figure out how to fix the performance

[@AMCguy]

@@trentonmcclellanify def check. i just did a whole rebuild, didnt record it but i have some funny moments i took pictures of. 91 bronco 5speed

[@enriqueruiz5536]

One question, man, is there a shorter strap so as not to remove everything?

[@chelosauthentic]

Nice.

[@ChaseGentry]

Thanks!

[@MrFitzfn]

Awesome I'm doing the exact same thing to my 92 f250 w 351 , could you make a video on how to redo all the vacuum lines after everything is taking off? Like plugs or new lines , thank you great video

[@ChaseGentry]

Great idea!

[@chandoncarter5835]

Will my air conditioning still work ? Gotta have it 😂

[@ChaseGentry]

lol yes

[@chriscraft4236]

Instead of struggling to plug the heads why not plug the union pipe? Assuming that is a threaded fitting at the center of the cross over..

[@ChaseGentry]

I wanted all that removed

[@calebhodges9028]

Did you cover the exhaust manifold hole under the egr with anything?

[@ChaseGentry]

Yes, I took it to a local muffler shop and had EGR tube connector plug welded

[@LesThompson-o7r]

Quick question. I ordered the AC bypass from the link provided and also the dorman idler pulley 419-644 from the Amazon link. The pulleys inner bearing diameter is too small to fit on the AC bypass. Does the center punch out or do I have the wrong pulley

[@ChaseGentry]

Sounds like it it should drop right in

[@1991tommygun]

Great, now put a cope racing manual valve body and a carburetor on it lol no more electronic crap

[@zh9119]

I'm not happy replacing a metal pulley with a plastic one.

[@matthewervin3267]

Hmmm Spend just over $300 just to remove all of this ? Seems cheaper just to leave it alone.....

[@ChaseGentry]

Leave it alone then 🤘🏻

[@johnmiller2381]

You can do it much cheaper. Get a 97” belt, 2 5/8” bolts, weld 2 holes in your exhaust and pop in a couple 75 ohm resistors. Leave the EGR unless you want to lose about 4 mpg. It only opens at cruise on the highway.

[@dansacco1964]

@@johnmiller2381I was wondering about the EGR needing to be there. I feel like the timing curve is based on it being present and without it the knock retard would kill the power and efficiency. On a built motor with a tune I could see wanting it gone.

[@ChristianRaymondFilms]

@@dansacco1964yeah for sure I would think for short drives around town ripping in a built setup you would want it gone, but for daily driving / highway I would keep the EGR, just my opinion though

[@BraedonBriscoe]

​@@johnmiller2381do I need to leave the egr solenoid on the driver side? It has a vacuum hose going to it right?

[@KeithSaggio]

This does not work on a 96, computer won’t allow!

[@dresoto3188]

Ha ha -Nelson , Simpsons 😂

[@samuelalfred3731]

Why not?

[@KeithSaggio]

@samuelalfred3731 it throws a check engine code because of OBDII computer

[@samuelalfred3731]

@@KeithSaggio oh i have a 96 with 351w . will the truck still run good or will all I have to worry about is a check engine light on the dash because i dont mind if it has a cel due to racing any info helps

[@samuelalfred3731]

also i have anouther question what can i do to make it run good with no egr and emission crap