2 Bolt vs 4 Bolt - Ask Professor Clint - Never Done

[@backyardbuilttrucks1]

We throw 10 to 12 lbs of boost to a studded and balanced 2 bolt 468 bbc . It does have a forged eagle crank and Callie's forged rods with kings best bearings. Never sees over 5800 rpm. 5 years and still going . Makes 922hp @ rear wheels. A bbc 2 bolt have heavier main caps and thicker webbing due to the other 2 bolts not there to weaken it. I was advised not to splay the mains 468 bbc twin VS Racing 78/75 with 1,25 AR . On 10/12 lbs of boost with a huge howard's hydraulic roller cam too boot

[@charleslowe522]

The Grand National 109 block is a junk block, v6, with 2 bolt mains. They've 750whp with stock bottom end, with ARP studs and billet mains guys are regularly making making 675whp and doing it reliably over time. My 109 with billet mains, makes 550rwhp and 625ft-lbs of torque and I've been running it for 3 years now.

[@silicon212]

The exception here is the 400 factory small block Chevy. The 4-bolt blocks are NOT as strong as the 2 bolt blocks. In the video at 1:33, you will see a factory 400 2-bolt setup. Notice how the caps are as wide as the standard 4 bolt SBC caps are, from register to register, for more contact area with the block. The 4-bolt setup had a tendency to crack the blocks. Note that this is ONLY the 400.

[@iron-farmer]

silicon212 eeeeeeyaaaaaaa

[@sweetness34km]

Exactly very true except the 350s also crack

[@alleyoop1234]

A good friend has beat the snot out of his 55 Chevy for decades and lots of hundreds of passes. It runs 10.teens with an alcohol hilborn injected 355 2 bolt main bowtie block. He has refreshed that engine many times, and has never seen any sign of cap movement. Yes he uses main cap studs.

[@galenbrown3312]

When we were racing a short track super modified the promoters had a limit of 312 CI, any compression ratio, any cam, any steel heads (We tried 2 different styles), any intake w/1 four Barrel carburetor, but what I thought was strange: no dry-sump. We installed ARP studs for the mains and heads on our heavily modified, but stock OEM 2 bolt, 1st gen Chevy small block. We had it magna-fluxed, sonic checked, all sharp edges radiused, line honed, squared, decked, balanced, oil restrictors for rod & main oil supply. This was the late '70s and early 80s and it dyno'd at 500+ HP. Never had a failure in the 2 years of 3000 to 7200 RPM short track torture. On a greasy or dry slick track it would spin-up to 7500+ RPM if the driver wasn't careful. We had a tell-tale tachometer. It had 12.5 to 1 compression, forged pistons, best rods available and forged crankshaft It had low-end torque off the turns that would yank your head off. The 2 bolt is pretty reliable if you take time to build them with tough materials.

[@Germanmuscle]

I heard if there is a hump on the back of the block right below the intake manifold it's a 4 bolt main if there is no hump if it's flat it's a 2 bolt

[@NeverDoneUSA]

I've heard the same, I'm not sure if that is a universal truth or if it only applies to certain years or casting locations. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in.

[@confuse3671]

One thing, when converting to studs, you really should have the mains align honed. Studs go deeper and distort the block a bit different. Its not 100% necessary (bearings are designed to take up small differences) but improves the consistency of the oil flow around the bearings (and ultimately to the rods).

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Thank you for your comment, this will add value for others who watch the video and read through the comments.

[@antilaw9911]

I disagree.

[@noahdunaway]

@@antilaw9911 disagree as in ?

[@arvinsaenz7935]

Good info. I enjoyed it especially as a newbie to GMs.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Thank you, glad it was helpful. We have lots of other videos you may enjoy on our channel and new ones coming out all the time.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

the 2 bolt 350 chevy block is stronger than the 4 bolt the problem with the two bolt is the caps stretch over 6000 rpm and or about 450 HP if you are below those to thresholds the main web of the two bolt is stronger because you didn't drill a hole in it for your outer main cap and remove a bunch of material for your bolt hole a 350 2 bolt with ARP studs is stronger than a 4 bolt chevy with factory bolts also the GM main bolts are not junk they are grade 8 and can definitely be reused

[@DeliriumElectric]

So if I'm going to build a 327, and occasionally spin it to 7000, then some centre splayed caps should do the trick?

[@thomashayes7423]

I’ve reused my old main cap bolts before. Never had issues if there torqued to the right spec

[@moto_rad]

Maybe youve never had an issue, but theyre stretched. Measure them with a micrometer.

[@stevesolo16]

I've built high horsepower stock (454) blocks 2 and 4 bolt. Both handle 800hp without any issue if you build the bottom end correctly. I am currently experimenting with an early 1970 2 bolt. The early blocks have a better quality casting. The 2 bolt: I purchase Moroso Billit Splayed main caps. You have to machine, drill, tap and line hone the mains. Use ARP studs and bolts. This 2 bolt is now STRONGER than the non-splayed 4 bolt block. The crank is a forged Crower stroker 4.25 and a 4.310 bore making it a 496 and is handling 780hp and 690trq quite well. I was thinking of adding a 250shot of NOS but, because of block deformation under heavy load, I want to see if I can fit a steel girdle to the bottom-end just to be safe. I don't like filling the water passages with Hard Block. Best to buy a good Brodix or Dart block if your thinking of going that extreme. My 4 bolt blocks all had aftermarket caps but splayed caps aren't available as they are already straight drilled. Do NOT put a turbo on a stock block! You are asking for BIG trouble. Even NOS is not a great idea. Keep the dose small if you do. Clint is giving good advice. Listen.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Thank you for your thoughts and for checking out the video.

[@stevesolo16]

My pleasure. You are offering good info. Keep it up.

[@johntropp5483]

We did dirt track racing, 350 SB usually .030 to .040 over. Used both 2 and 4 bolt blocks, generally 7000-8500 RPM. Both types of blocks did the job but I do have to say that when the 2 bolt let go....it really let go. Not much was left of the bottom end or the top end. Almost like someone put a grenade in the engine. By the way these were also professionally built engines. This is just some extra information on 2 and 4 bolt blocks that we discovered from regular use, and it was not just us, it was a common issue among drivers. That RPM, sometimes even close to 9000, for a long period of time is eventually knock the crap out of any engine. Unless you have the money to rebuild and refresh on a regular basis.

[@72troy455]

Yep, many 2-bolt 350 has been built making 550+HP. I've built a few myself, but usually limit RPM to around 7500. They'll take more than people think. Wouldn't want to race a 100 mile road race with one, but in short burst, they'll live.

[@davidreynolds731]

sounds exactly how the big companies want you to think, we reuse the main bolts, bearings, head studs etc at upwards of 800 horsepower, a bolt doesn't magically lose its strength, they are just "pre stretched" yes they stretch, unless you over torque them, then your pushing the tensile strength to its limit and it takes little effort to break it. But if everyone did that how would they make their money. just like we use oem reused rod bolts, the rod ALWAYS breaks before the bolt, no need for arp.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

To each his own. Good luck to you and thank you for watching the video.

[@davidreynolds731]

No problem, and thanks. just putting my experience with this out there, people shouldn't feel pressured to buy all new arp bolts, if they are watching a video about mains I doubt they will ever be pushing over 500hp. (ps great video and drilled and tapped 4 bolt mains are stronger due to them being angled it gives no room for it to "walk")

[@atomicdmt8763]

solid vid! curious what you might recommend for a replacement engine on a 2002 GMC Savana. thanks!

[@rolandocruz3206]

At 5:08 why is there a Ford super duty when your talking about GM motors

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Good eye. We needed some type of filler footage so we used a quick clip of the Never Done Super Duty.

[@retroshyt]

Great video, great info! Thanks man

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Thank you, glad it was useful. We have lots of other videos on our channel, take a look! Thanks for the comment.

[@charleslowe522]

Well, my little 235ci v6 only has two bolt mains, with arp studs and billet main caps and I dynoed my car at 625whp and 683 ft-lbs of torque.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Nice! The studs and the billet mains help a ton!

[@charleslowe522]

@@NeverDoneUSA Yes they do. The problem with the LC2 motor or 109 block as it's called in the 86/87 turbo is the bottom end will hold up, but the lifter valley of the block will split. Anyway, I still appreciate your time and explanation as a middle-aged gear head I can get enough of engine block information.

[@devildog2931]

Very informative and easy to understand, thank you. You just won over a viewer to a now subscriber !

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Devil Dog thank you, glad you liked it.

[@spacecat333]

Very informative! You are a legend

[@abepowers4379]

The Toyota 1UZ I want to rice had 6 bolt mains in 1990. Crazy. Vette didn't,which means Camaro and Mustang sure as hell didn't. Does anyone know of any other 6 bolt mains on production vehicle in 1990?

[@krystalvandewarker6648]

Thank you simple at straight to the point

[@NeverDoneUSA]

You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it.

[@youtube_h4ndle]

Are there any blocks with enough meat on the low-end to drill, tap, helicoil, and drill out the cap to the next bolt size?

[@NeverDoneUSA]

dougr944 someone else will have to chime in on this one

[@stevesolo16]

Not on a stock 4 bolt block. The oil passages are too close to the outer studs. I do believe the caps wouldn't have enough metal surrounding them for sufficient clamping if you drill the hole larger. Dart now sells blocks with this option.

[@Duddie82]

I picked up a Chevy 350 4-bolt main block for $350, and I am happy!!, I also bought a 1978 Camaro, and the 350 engine in that car, is a 4-bolt main!!! I got a little luck there.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Awesome!

[@charleslowe522]

The old 350’s, not sure, but I think you can get billet main caps for the center and of course ARP hardware. I was at the track with a guy who swapped a 350 into his GRand National, with a turbo. No IC. That car ran a flat 10 sec 1/4 mile without breaking a sweat. Whereas I had to spend $14k to rebuild my 109 and I still haven’t hit the 10 sec flat 1/4. I believe he’s in the low 9s now.

[@ericbruck7958]

Used to buy 4 bolt 350 engines when I worked in auto machine shop in the 80s and 90s complete for less than 50 bucks in that day.

[@MrEspinoza510]

Thanks for the video.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

No problem, thanks for checking us out. We've got lots of other videos if you're interested kzbin.info

[@dementedweasel1]

I bought a 4 bolt block in 1990 that came out of a race car. It still had some crosshatch in the .030 bores and it came with studs and a Milodon oil pan. All for $250. Cool! So I put it all together and first thing I notice is practically no oil pressure at idle however, it ramps up to 60 psi off idle. Yes, I plastigauged a a main and a cap and put in a new high volume oil pump. So, I changed the crank. No difference. Also, it seemed to consume more oil than I thought it should. I sort of figured out that perhaps 2 cylinder bores were elongated which explains the low price of the block. Ok, to my point. I want to build another small block but make it more bulletproof. Now, I talked to a few people and they said the 4 bolts will crack the valley by the lifter bores and will loose the oil pressure at idle which may explain my oil problem. They said get a 2 bolt and you wont have a problem. However, I been throwing speed parts at my present block and it's still holding together.I'm still using it of course. It runs a 76 Monte Carlo in the 13s now. It also can spin 8000 and live except the cooling fan and an alternator belt. Now, What I want to know if it's true about the cracking the block with 4 bolts? Actually it's 4 studs. I'm on a budget but whatever I find that I can afford, However 700 hp may not be enough. If I find a Roots blower on the side of the road i'm using it. However if the 4 bolts actuall do crack the block i'll stick with the 2 bolt which I allready have on hand.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Christopher Wyller $250 awesome deal! Good for you! Your question is actually quite complex. Every block has a point of failure under a given set of conditions (usage, engine temps, loads, rpms, external temperature variants, etc). The 4 bolt blocks do very well as performance engines compared to the 2 bolts (as you can attest to) but they will have problems as you approach their limits and it sounds like that is your intention. The right answer is to move to an aftermarket block and go for it but with budget being a consideration I think I'd stick with what you have and just let a good engine builder look it over to resolve the issues. If you're still unsure about using the 4 bolt you can also look at doing a 4 bolt conversion on a 2 bolt block (costs about $500).

[@dementedweasel1]

Thanks for the reply! Yeah, i've seen the aftermarket caps on a block with the outer bolts splayed out to reach the wall of the block instead of just being on the bulkhead that would be the way to go but then you're looking at line boring the caps as well which woulld be a good idea regardless but add boring and decking and magnafluxing and you get a $1000 bill at least. Bout the cost of a new Dart block which is pristine to say the least. I just gotta face it. there's no cheap way to go. I saw a 383 small block for $1700 in some magazine but you get loose clearences with those as they're made for one racing season so rats, I don't know. And you still gotta machine the Dart blocks, decking at least. I guess what i'm wanting is a bulletproof engine that lasts forever on a homeless man's budget. I guess i'll just start with checking out the present block and see how cracked it is. Problem is i'm still using it. I'll continue on with the 4 bolts regardless. I can easily see myself exceeding 700 Hp at any rate. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

[@stevesolo16]

Christopher Wyller Dart blocks still need to be machine finished so expect to pay $500+ over the retail price of the block. I've just added "Splayed Main Caps" to a 2 bolt (now a 4)and it dynoed close to 800hp. Bolts for the bottom end, we change regularly do to loss of Ductility.

[@devinmeek3088]

what engine components would you recommend in a 4 bolt main running a 92 mm turbo

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Unfortunately I'm not an engine builder so I wouldn't have the level of expertise required to properly answer that question.

[@vectorm4]

Engine components? Hard to say; but certainly go BIG with fuel delivery. Pumps, fuel lines, and injectors. 92 mm? You think you have enough fuel? Go bigger than what you have ....

[@joshuagarvey9362]

Been running my 400 2 bolt main 509 block for 30 years.Pushes little over 520 hp and over 500 on torque.I shift it at 6800 and have not had any issues thank god.I did spend a lot of money back then on machines work.Everything is after market except the crank and block.I would not push it any farther then that even though people have done it many times.If your going power adders then YES buy an after market 4 bolt.

[@DowningJoseph-fh7fw]

Did Chevy make a 6 bolt main

[@7REDDRACO7]

i'll take a 2 bolt factory gm block converted to splayed caps over a factory 4 bolt any day. 4:22

[@mcbecane6249]

Why???

[@brandonpurple8938]

Nah I love my 4 bolt

[@dimefever1006]

Thanks for the info on this, I'm new to engine internals but have been doing all my repairs for years. Now I'm looking for a salvage yard 5.7 vortec to carb for my 84 c10 original 305 spun a rod on a 500+mile trip on a tight budget, auto tech student. Are there any tips you can offer to me in what to look for at the junkyard, I know I should check oil, and look for something that is wrecked, pull valve covers, turn engine by hand for compression. do I absolutely have to pull the oil pan? Thanks and I enjoy your videos!

[@NeverDoneUSA]

That vortec 350 will be a nice upgrade for your c10. The standard things you look for are things you've already listed: Make sure it turns over, check the oil (you could just pull the plug) and look for metal or water, and look closely for any signs of external damage or wear. Look for areas that appear to have had issues in the past, ie leaky gaskets. I don't typically pull the valve covers before I buy a junkyard engine, as long as the oil looks good, it turns over and doesn't appear to have any obvious issues I'll usually just buy it. Buying a used engine will always carry a degree of risk but spending a few minutes checking it out can really reduce the likelihood of buying scrap metal. If possible have them run the engine for you, a running engine will tell you volumes more than one you're turning by hand. Good luck with your upgrade and thank you for checking out my channel.

[@jimzrt1957]

Dime Fever k

[@mattalward9876]

k

[@dude1596]

If I just want the motor to run and do it’s job 2 bolt is good enough right?

[@stevesolo16]

2 bolts are good, proven blocks and are nice and affordable. You can bump up the horsepower to 600 no issues.

[@patw9175]

For daily driving you're going to need no less than 8 bolts for your main.

[@kylelumpkin742]

Pat W Don't you lie to that kid... 8 bolt daily!? are your trying to grenade his bottom end!? he needs a 16

[@stevesolo16]

I've always taken the 2 bolt and machines steel splayed 4 bolt caps to the center 3 caps. Sometimes you have to work with what you've got.

[@sweetness34km]

@@stevesolo16 mine is 0 issues

[@jerretcarriere8655]

My L33 is a 6 bolt main

[@slammedncammed9657]

I have a 350 swapped ford ranger, it's all stock besides the bore, (.060) what could I do to make more power? Cheap things to do?

[@NeverDoneUSA]

The first thing to do is make sure the engine is running as well as it possibly can in it's current trim, a tuneup and proper timing will go a long ways on an engine that needs them. From there I'd start with headers and a free flowing exhaust system, then look at an aluminum intake manifold, a performance carburetor and a camshaft. The real power in a 350 is found in the heads, if you've got the money look at swapping them out. If you're on a SUPER tight budget look at getting colder air to the engine from outside the engine compartment via ducting, venting, scoops, etc. then open up the exhaust flow the best you can (even replacing restrictive factory mufflers with high flowing units will help)

[@eddieallen8982]

first pull that 350 and put it back in a Chevy.

[@slammedncammed9657]

Lol, i don't have a chassis to put it in, besides the ranger

[@eddieallen8982]

ok just zip tie a bowtie to the grill then. lol

[@precbsfender]

I wish this guy was my auto shop teacher, extremely informative..

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Thank you

[@desifrazier6860]

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU .. ABOUT TO CONVERT MY 2 BOLT TO A 4 BOLT MAIN 400

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Glad you liked it, please share it with your friends!

[@Joedennett69]

You do know that a 4 bolt 400 is weaker than a 2 bolt the extra 2 bolts go into block webbing.

[@sweetness34km]

Notorious for getting into water jackets and rusting

[@dayton.adviento]

well said

[@benkalinowski5834]

I got a 350 block with a 4 bolt main 90 roller block gm one I saw on horsepower tv that they upgraded the block after 550hp You just said that it was good for 1200 hp I have forged guts and I have arp everything

[@NeverDoneUSA]

I've seen aftermarket small blocks handle 1200 hp, production small blocks cannot safely handle nearly that much.

[@benkalinowski5834]

@@NeverDoneUSA if I have a gm block What hp is it safe to 4 bolt mains arp everything Forged guts

[@NeverDoneUSA]

@@benkalinowski5834 you should be safe up to about 800, I've seen them handle a lot more but it's certainly pushing the limits of safety.

[@N.California]

Because Chevy (GM) is best. (edit) Great vid, I finally get it now. thx

[@robertthornton1014]

ima use duct tape to hold down my 4 bolt mains lmfao

[@charleslowe522]

Yeah, no I'm going to have to disagree with you there. My Grand National made around 450hp and over 500ft-lbs of torque all day long on the stock v6 long block. Right now I have a forged crank and the first 3 main caps are billet steel with ARP studs and the guy helping me tune with an aftermarket ECU said 600whp/600ft-lbs of torque no problem. He said tune plays such a big role. Now, if I wanted to 1000whp I would have to get an aftermarket or a BMS stage 2 block. You can make a 1000whp with a stock block, but the block at that point is only good for the dragstrip and not driving around. I've seen Richard Holdener make upwards of around 700 hp with a stock old school SBC. When using forced induction, tuning is the key. Nitrous puts such an massive load on an engine so quick that I would avoid it unless I had a 4 or 6 bolt main. Also, the Buick 3800 series 2/3 block with forged rods and pistons has been power potential for a v6. It has two bolt mains, but they are cross bolted. I'm building a 3800 series 2 for my 2000 Regal GS, it's machined already and I will be using ARP main studs and ARP bolts for the cross bolts as studs wouldn't add any benefit. I bet when all is said and done I will be making about 800whp with my 3800 series 2, reliably.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

The numbers I shared are general guidelines for the average gear head. Can they be pushed beyond that with an experienced builder/tuner? Absolutely! However with such a general audience comprised largely of newbies and DIY guys without the proper knowledge or experience I had to give numbers that would keep everyone operating within generally safe parameters. Good luck on your buick, it sounds like a cool build!

[@charleslowe522]

@@NeverDoneUSA Thank you. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools nor the confidence to build the engine myself so things move at a slower pace because performance build labor is expensive. I was talking with my engine builder today and he told me that I would have to invest a lot more money for the transmission to hold up and it still may not. My build may be able to make 800whp, but it's not going to happen. He said a more reasonable number of around 500whp. Other people have built these v6 in FWD configurations, I guess they had to make custom parts for the transmission. I was a bit of a big mouth in my previous post and I've been knocked down a few pegs, deserving so. Again thanks for the information.

[@thomashayes7423]

I’ve got an original Chevy 4 bolt main

[@johnalarcon5006]

Neither! unless it a Dart block with splayed main caps !

[@kameronhammett2935]

2 bolt main with a girdle you will be fine

[@tomcooper6108]

To each his own but I'm damn sure not putting hard work and $$ into a 2 bolt. Forget it. Better safe than sorry. My current build is a 454 4 bolt block I picked up for $200.

[@racerd3801]

If you have visions of wheelies , just shortin up your IC and raise it , even 400hp can do wheelies

[@phelanwhitman3324]

IC?

[@joseortega1114]

yea but i met people that cant even afford the 2 bolt main studs or bolt and they tell me to resue the same bolts

[@NeverDoneUSA]

jose ortega you're taking a big risk reusing old bolts. Do people do it? Yes. Is it worth the risk? That's up to you.

[@DonziGT230]

2 bolt small blocks successfully make well over 400HP all the damn time. This "professor" needs to go back to school.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

DonziGT230 thank you for watching

[@sweetness34km]

Up to 600 hp especially if using good crankshaft rods and pistons. I have a 2 bolt way over 500hp before nitrous rotating weight loss and 150 shot of nitrous. 0 issues Teflon coated bearings. I agree with you.

[@GnarshredProductions]

im gonna throw some procomp china main studs and head studs and open up the ring gap in a stock 2 bolt 350 and see how much boost it can handle on stock internals before it gives up the goose lol.

[@Wheresmy240]

The comedy is cringy but the video was very informative. I hate when channels will take 20 mins to answer a question like this so I can deal with a bit of cringe to watch videos that get straight to the point and cut out all of the bullshit.

[@eddieallen8982]

for $500-1000 you can get a newer ls engine that has better caps in the first place.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

The LS is a GREAT option. It really all comes down to budget and desired outcome.

[@eddieallen8982]

i know how that is. I'd love to get a ls for my s10 but instead I'm going with a $200 350. I guess the good thing is all the old 4.3 stuff still works.

[@zacksherradi1546]

But i'd rather keep the original 5.7 L 4 Bolt main engine with bigger cam in my 1970 Chevy C 10 just to keep it original it sounds great and has enough power for a daily driver

[@AlwaysBeSmart674]

Good Vid

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Always be Smart fair enough.

[@AlwaysBeSmart674]

Now i feel bad..you're a good dude

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Always be Smart lol don't feel bad, thanks for checking us out and for taking the time to comment.

[@chipdoctorkent]

This guy is totally wrong it's a myth because stock gm block castings become weaker with the four bolt main it's been proven if you really wanna put some power down use a 2 bolt with a girdle

[@NeverDoneUSA]

That has not been the experience of the engine builder I got the information for this video from however its an interesting idea, I'll look into it. Thank you for watching the video.

[@noahdunaway]

Not true for big block Chevy blocks.

[@lulutileguy]

my vw has single bolt i guess

[@sebastianavalos4491]

“Like yo momma”😂

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Some of the things they come up with.

[@thedude2475]

This info is true for all gm small blocks with the exception of the 400 the 4 bolt blocks are notorious for breaking under higher levels of stress especially the earlier models casring #3951511

[@ianmangham4570]

Casting

[@mattv8919]

u think the 511 are good for under what rpm 5500 or less

[@gregg4164]

This turned into a " No Shit Sherlock " video.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Thanks for checking it out Watson

[@donv40]

Thanks for the info...lol

[@NeverDoneUSA]

You bet

[@vencent8329]

ok now i know what is bolt mean

[@onescrewloose7]

The sound quality makes this video unbearable to watch

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Fair enough, we've gotten better equipment for our more recent videos.

[@SteveoGregg]

Three letters, ... A.R.P.

[@chrishollis3568]

Procomp 😂😂😂😂

[@davidswift541]

lol 🤣🤣🤣🤣😍😍

[@michaelm.wiseman282]

Thanks for the explanation. Your producers suck, however. You need a better microphone and the white background makes your face too dark (and your images too). Not a mechanic but a new fan.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Glad you gained something from it. Thank you for your thoughts. I've since upgraded my equipment, take a look at the channel and see if you like any of the newer videos

[@normhodgkinson6965]

The professor of mis-information. sure glad hes not doing the machine work on my engines.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

Which information do you disagree with?

[@normhodgkinson6965]

@@NeverDoneUSA cap walk ? seriously ? apparently you have never worked in a machine shop. throw away the old main bolts ? you must work for ARP. performance machinists, back yard builders, and basic machine shops have re-used main and head bolts since 1955, and i have never seen or heard of a head or main bolt snapping or cracking. i doubt you have ever assembled an engine. there is nothing wrong with replacing main and head bolts with newer, but its not the be-all end-all, and not always necessary. i have built and raced SBC since 1965, and on teardowns, there has never been any evidence of cap walk, and no machine shop has ever advised me about possible cap walk. you are the first time i have ever heard that term. and so far, no YT posts related to Chev engine builds have mentioned cap walk.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

@@normhodgkinson6965 Google "main cap walk", you'll be greeted by a plethora of information on the subject. There's a big difference between backyard engines and quality performance engines. Again you can Google the effects of heat cycles on old main bolts and find that they become stretched and much less effective up to the point of complete failure. I do not work for nor am I currently endorsed by ARP.

[@normhodgkinson6965]

@@NeverDoneUSA i can only speak from my personal experiences beginning in the mid 60's. my machine work has always been done by reputable shops that kept current with the performance trends at the time. my engines would last about three race seasons before teardown. i know about heat cycles, fatigue, expansion/contraction, etc. i can't say bolt failure has never happened to someone, but nobody i have ever raced with, or talked about engine builds with, including machine shop personal, has mentioned cap walk. i have been using ARP fasteners for about 10 yrs with no issues. i kept my GM bolts just in case. this week i'll ask my machinist about cap walk.

[@NeverDoneUSA]

@@normhodgkinson6965 fair enough. Thank you for watching the video.

[@gregg4164]

Anyone who is watching this most likely knows what a fucking main is. Get to the point.