2-Stroke Oil Injection Pump Operational Test for 2006 Yamaha 70TLR

I perform the 2-stroke oil injection pump operational test on my 2006 Yamaha 70TLR outboard engine according to the Yamaha service manual. Yamaha 70TR 70BETO 70C

[@IMAGINATIONxCREATION]

Excellent job. Well documented and explained.

[@bags4]

Thank you! Glad it was useful for you.

[@brianbailey4540]

Good video well done sir!

[@ocendo1]

Thanks for detailed explanation

[@bags4]

You're welcome ocendo1.

[@osbornebay944]

Thank you Sir, I am testing a 95 Suzuki 225 hp's oil injection specs, very useful information: full oil injection pump throttle, 1500 rmp with premix 50:1 for 3 min, 2.2 ml of .5 ml +/-. Many outboards would work for a long time when oil injection is good. I bought a 85 Suzuki 75hp and used it for 13 seasons and sold it in excellent running condition.

[@bags4]

Thank you Osborne Bay. The 2-stroke oil injection pump operational test performed in this video is specific to that particular engine. I would recommend getting ahold of the service manual for your 95 Suzuki 225, or find out the procedure and specs for the operational test for your engine. Yes, a properly maintained engine will last many years! Good luck and happy and safe boating!

[@carlosperez473cp]

Can you do a video of oil reservoir wiring I obtained a boat and has the oil level sensor disconnected I want to put that back together

[@swedishkev]

Hi mate, l have done this test and all was well.l have same motor. Now when l put the boat in the water for the first time.and turn the key ,no beep,l am pretty sure there was a beep before. Mind you, you don't seem to have a beep either before you turn on ? or do you? Do you know how to check this issue. l have only replaced battery cables, l have not disturbed anything else when l unscrewd the oil bottle to do this test.

[@tuplvr1]

My 70 is just like yours only its a 93 model. The bottom cylinder was nearly full of oil after sitting for 3 months. Could that be the check valve you were talking about? After removing the oil, the motor still smokes heavily while i run it (on the trailer with muffs) at any rpm. Maybe I have not run it enough to burn the oil out.... i'm not sure. Thank you for the excellent video!

[@bags4]

You’re welcome, glad you found it useful! The check valve just keeps the oil going one way into the cylinder. 3 months isn’t that long to sit, mine sits all winter. Did you fog the cylinders too? That would create smoke too. Could be that you need to run it longer, let it get up to temp. You might also have to adjust the oil injection pump, but I’d test the output volume of each hose first. And like I said at the end, better to have too much oil than not enough, you definitely need it to lubricate the crankcase!

[@LuisCampos-oy5dy]

Good video. Hi , i have a 2 stroke autolub yamaha 80cv model AETO. I want to.do the oil pump test as you, but i have a qestion, i going use a pre mix 50:1 when i take off the pipe of oil that fedd in carburator should i measure the amount of oil at the same time on each pipe of 3 carburator or 1 pipe each time, because the other 2 pipes will get more oil then the pipe that i measure. Thanks , sorry for my bad ingles

[@bags4]

Hi Luis, I would measure each pipe individually to ensure they are each putting out the correct amount of 2-stroke oil, no clogs, etc.

[@ariadnetompkins2268]

Did the 2000 TLRY 70 hp originally come with an oil injection system? Can it be replaced?

[@bags4]

That’d be a question for your local Yamaha outboard shop. I bet it could be replaced if it was removed

[@rodd4590]

Great video. Would you happen know where I can fid the Oil injector specs for a 2005 150 hp Yamaha? Thanks

[@bags4]

Try asking your local Yamaha outboard dealer/service shop - that’s where I got a look at mine in their service manual. Can be hard to find online, but you might get lucky

[@swedishkev]

l have one of these, 2001 low hours. Was laid up for 2 years, prior to that time it had the carbs clean at a workshop. Its running great always starts up pretty easy. l think it might need the carbs cleaned to just check them and make sure that there is no shit somewhere. My question l have is, when l cold start it,it seems to run on 2 cylinders for say 10 seconds and if l give it a little throttle it seems to run on all 3 cylinders. And when warmed up all day starting, seems normal. I've started to use some fuel stabilizer, because of ethanol in the fuel. l am thinking maybe one carb is dirty hence that happening on startup or is this quite normal with 3 cylinders 2 strokes? Just discovered that this happens when tilted up all the way and go to boat ramp. If down a good while , few days and like today started on muffs started fine, but noticed tilting up and then down while running, lowered the rpm from 600-700 to 4 or 5 to 600.what would cause this?

[@bags4]

Hi Kevin, thanks for watching and apologies for the delayed response. I bet your startup issue at the ramp has to do with gas spilling out of the carb bowl(s) when tilted up and bouncing down the road. The carbs with shorter fuel lines most likely fire up first. Should rectify itself quickly once started. Cheers!

[@swedishkev]

Hi mate, l was wondering if l should do the same, have no test tube though. ? l have just bought the boat and it is a Yamaha 70hp 2001 model only 131hours on it. been standing for about 2 years, Had water pump and carburetters cleaned just before that 2 years, so will be praying l don't have to take them off and clean them. And if it has a strong stream of water, that the impeller does not need doing again also. Was going to use a 50.1 mix just as a precautionary measure. Can you tell me if there is a way of seeing the oil flowing through them see through hoses? l am so worried about, what if the system is not working or not properly. The reservoir is 80 percent full and some say need to change the oil, some say it will be ok, l bought new oil, anyway do you think l need to renew before first start-up in 2 years? Also going to put oil in the sparkplug holes and turn over gently first. appreciate what you would do, now that you know these engines. and if l am overlooking anything. Hoping you will reply thanks. Kevin

[@bags4]

Hi Kevin, thanks for watching. I would buy a graduated cylinder with 0.1 ml(cc) graduation and do the same test I did, then you will be able to sleep at night! The oil is too dark to watch it flow through the hoses. The 90hp yamaha 2-strokes have a bleed screw on the injection pumps that you can open to see oil flowing, but these injection pumps in the 70hp's are self-bleeding and don't have the bleed screw. You can also mark the oil reservoir and see if the level drops after a few hours of use (while running on pre-mixed 50:1 just in case!). You can also very easily remove the oil hose on the top reed valve plate just past the carburetor (1:33 in the video) while running on pre-mixed 50:1 and watch the 2-stroke oil dripping out, but none of these methods measures the actual amount of oil injected into each cylinder, which i think is pretty important. You can probably burn the 2-stroke oil that's in there (I did that with mine after it sat for a few years with previous owner), but of course draining, cleaning, and refilling the reservoir is better... Did the carbs sit with ethanol treatment in the fuel, or did they get run dry before sitting? If not, you'll probably have to clean the carbs, but that's not a big deal. Dangar Marine's youtube channel has a few good videos that show how to properly clean carbs (kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5bChpxveZ2XeKc). I always clean with carb cleaner and then use an ultrasonic heated cleaner to really get them perfect, it's worth it for optimum performance. Change the fuel filter, spark plugs (good time to do a compression test on each cylinder), fuel/water separator filter, and pressure test the gear box (again, check out Dangar Stu's videos on how to do that kzbin.info/www/bejne/op_Li3mkasyefZY) to see if you have to replace the driveshaft and propshaft seals. Change the lower unit gear lube while doing the gearbox pressure test. Never hurts to replace the zinc annodes too. Sounds like a lot, but none of it is that hard, and you'll be running tip top!

[@swedishkev]

@@bags4 wow mate best accurate reply ever,your the best. Will look at Dangars l am subscribed to him. There is some maintence vids on this motor too, which is always better to be the exact engine. Thanks once again will not be playing with it for about 3 weeks yet. I will let you know how l get on.Cheers

[@patonbike]

Thanks for the video, How do you set the idle speed to 1500?

[@bags4]

The service manual says to do so by adjusting the throttle stop lever.

[@patonbike]

@@bags4 Thanks , I had just gotten the boat and didn't realize you could simply increase engine speed with the throttle lever, without spinning the propeller by pressing he button on the side of the throttle lever! All good now

[@teamslaiyans3808]

What is that upper unit tank that u just took off ? Is that oil also ?

[@bags4]

Yes, that is the 2-stoke oil reservoir. On my boat, that is the only oil tank there is. I do not have a reserve tank under the console.

[@pianduchuance859]

Do you have your oil pump adjust for idle in the minimum setting?

[@bags4]

piandu chuance For the operational test in this video, you must set the oil injection pump to the highest setting, which you can do by disconnecting the throttle linkage and pushing the adjustment toward the bow. During normal operation, the oil injection pump is connected to the throttle linkage which moves with the carburetors’ throttle linkages. So yes, at idle, the 2-stroke oil injection pump is moved to the minimum setting via the linkage, and as throttle is increased to the carburetors, the oil injection pump is automatically adjusted to increase oil injection as needed via the mechanical linkage connection

[@hectorrendon5313]

What do anodes do and why replace? I have a 2002 70hp Yamaha TLRA. Should I do the same? I just had the motor rebuilt.

[@bags4]

The anodes are sacrificial zinc metal that take the brunt of the galvanic corrosion and protect other metal components from corroding. They absolutely need to be replaced so they continue to protect the important metal from corroding, and if the anodes get too corroded, they can also break off and obstruct cooling passages, which can lead to overheating problems. Check with the rebuilder of your engine to ensure they replaced all internal anodes, and if not, replace them yourself right away before these other problems occur

[@hectorrendon5313]

@@bags4 thanks for your time and knowledge.

[@bags4]

@@hectorrendon5313 my pleasure, and I wish you many years of reliable and safe boating with your 70 TLRA!

[@swedishkev]

Hi mate. l have reached out to you a few times and your not answering anymore. l have deleted the questions because l had solved the mysteries my self. l will try again with 2 questions just in case you answer. l am ready to do what you have done in this video. plastic oil container unscrewed. What l noticed the oil pipe that runs at the back of the plastic container was half pinched. Is this normal. ? And l also notice that the top cylinder always runs a bit hotter than the middle one and bottom one, when touching them. Any idea what could be thec reason. This engine as l said was sitting for 18-24 months. It run pretty much normal from what ive been seeing in your video and others. l will be putting it in the water and testing it hopefully next weekend. If it seems atall rough or stuggling in any way, then l will also take off the carbs and clean .them. l have not cleaned the water passages as you said you done. Because l probably need to order a gasket and that would take weeks to get. it is cooling as it should with strong pee flow. It had a new impellor change ,l think 2018. l changed gearobx oil and new plugs.

[@bags4]

You could try cleaning the water passages by removing the thermostat and pouring some fixture cleaner down that hole, flushing it all out with water. The “tell tale” can piss out water even if you’ve got a blocked water passage, so keep an eye on the temps. Hopefully your engine is running good these days!

[@plgplgplg]

Have you ever had the injector pump apart?

[@bags4]

I haven’t, but a quick search here on youtube shows a few decent videos about them in more detail

[@plgplgplg]

@@bags4 Thanks, there are a bunch, haven’t found a disassembled one yet but should enough info to answer my question.