2000 BMW E39 523i - Engine Cooling - How to bleed the cooling circuit

In this video you can learn how to bleed the cooling system on a bmw 523i. Applicable on any other 6 cylinder E39 bmw. It's no biggie. Just open both bleed screws, expansion tank Cap, turn on the ignition and set your heater to max temperature and minimum fan speed, so you activate the Auxiliary water pump. Then, start filling it up till water first comes out of the thermostat housing bleed screw, then screw it back, and kepp adding up water till it also comes out of the expansion tank bleed screw, with no air bubbles.
Finally, close the circuit with the last bleed screw and remove a bit of excess coolant from the expansion tank and put the cap back on.

[@jaygohil4139]

Thanks for the silent video

[@gothick2]

Obrigado pelo video, continuas a ajudar a malta xD, Cumps.

[@vatrica1]

Thanks for the video, isn't that too much water in the expansion tank? How will it get out of the system?

[@MrSkiff-oo2cn]

Спасибо, видео очень помогло

[@afterthat5172]

Before u do this, did you turn on the engine first?

[@jariruusunen2211]

Am i wrong or should you start and warm upnthe engine too so liquid Will recirculate and all the air removes from the engine Block tooo?

[@slam44]

No, since it is coolant it doesn’t need to be warm. Also, I believe you should close the plug on the lower hose first as it starts to overflow. Then close the plug near the screw cap when the level looks good and there is a small stream of water coming out of one of the holes near the rim of the filler hole. You don’t need to put the screwdriver up-and-down or in any of the holes. Then adjust it to the correct level. Drive in a short bit let it get warm, cool down, Re-check the level as it may have dipped down a bit. Don’t overfill. Use the correct coolant with distilled water.

[@Rina-sv5ui]

My 01 530i only has ONE bleed screw. No clue why all this nonsense

[@mahersg8117]

I bought a e39 540i 2000, the thermostat sensor was not available its mean the water flow is not stopping so I change it .. and the heating house are canceled No heating.. and the car is overheating if i stop but when driving the temperature becomes normal , water pump is working fine no leaks in the system I think i didn’t bleed the system correctly.. can i do the same steps even the heating house and system is canceled?!

[@RuiSantosManatim]

Yeah, you can still bleed the system.

[@Juzzdo]

I just changed water pump and thermostat to my -96 523i. Do i have to bleed old liquid out before im doing this or can i just start doing this what you are doing? Thanks

[@RuiSantosManatim]

of course you have to bleed your system

[@ishotthetrixbunny9773]

5:03 wtf

[@NS-tn3th]

😂 He did it for the vine

[@miguelitoporto]

olá Rui! diz -me uma coisa, tu não ligas o carro para sangrar o sistema? Eu penso que tenho um problema nos tubos da água, o carro depois de quente os tubos ficam com muita pressão, já alguma vez te aconteceu?

[@RuiSantosManatim]

+miguelitoporto Viva, não. A bomba de água auxiliar da climatização circula a água e sangra o sistema pelas purgas.

[@miguelitoporto]

+Rui Santos eu tenho um 523i de 1996 a gpl! e a cerca de 1mês meteu-se uma junta da colaça, mas reparei que tenho os tubos da água muito duros, e estava a pensar purgar a tubagem.. já alguma vez te aconteceu no teu? de que não é o teu?

[@RuiSantosManatim]

+miguelitoporto Também tá a GPL e é 23i. reparaste agora nisso porque começaste a andar de olho nele. O meu é igual, rijos. Para segurança meti termostato 10 graus mais fresco, 82 em vez de 92, e tampa de vaso de expansão de 1.4bar em vez de 2 bar. 2 Bar num sistema ja com a sua idade, é estar a pedir que algo dê de si, nem que seja no radiador da climatização.

[@niniouff68]

Only use blue liquid for BMW !!!!!

[@user-wc3ft4df4k]

А автор глухонемой?