2000 Volvo S80 - ABS Module Repair Attempt

[@hughthemusicalengineer4365]

My year 2000 VW Beetle has the same ABS controller that I'm also trying to fix. I looked over it with a USB microscope and found a possible crack in the solder on one of the pins on that chip with the barcode on it. I got a heat gun, painted flux onto all the pins, and reflowed the folder. Not tried it back in the car yet, but fingers crossed. I think I'll also go over all the leads and connector solder joints too, just as you have done, but I won't be removing the old solder.

[@YouTuby717]

Yours works because you mentioned that it worked for x time. Mines in the other hand is shot so my next step would be to over kill with the heat gun - your not going to do anymore damage to unit because its not working anyways (my unit). but yours works so hit it up with the solder. cold solder joints or old solder joints is best to remove (not re-flow) the solder and replace with new and flux as well and it will last for long time. Hit the other spots while you have it opened again. thx 4 post

[@yuckuJackD]

Hi, First of all - thanks for sharing this. I've made an attempt in repairing the ABS DSTC module in my '99 S80 B6294S (same as yours). I've re soldered only the main terminal and it lasts for a week or so. I've planned in re doing the job just the way you did in this video, but seeing there is no result probably will save me some time in making a second attempt. Ohhh and one advice: (i'm out of symbols so i'll post one more comment for the advice)

[@jorgefonseca9225]

nice vedeo mate you are really good this work is not easy just for a profissionals electrical guys great vedeo cheers from norway

[@lsi624]

I once owned a 1999 V70...cost $4000 to buy and one year later I had an additional $4000 in repair receipts...One thing is for sure...At 140,000 miles the motor was worthy of pulling a tank out of a swamp. Didn't burn or drip a drop of oil.

[@yuckuJackD]

hard first start is most likely caused by a bad fuel pressure regulator and/or a leak in the air path AFTER the mass airflow sensor. These things are the place to start, but the very first thing to do is to scan the cars codes. They may help you what to look for. After a couple of times I've payed for reading codes i decided to buy a DiCE (the original Volvo scanner). That was one the most cost effective inventions i've made for a tool for repairing a car ever! (they charged me 10 EU every time)

[@YouTuby717]

most likely caused by a bad fuel pressure regulator and/or a leak in the air path AFTER the mass airflow sensor? After I cleaned out the manifold of all the gunk and the trottlebody it started right up the right way and the problem seemed to go away then the next summer it started again so i cleaned it again and again it started fine. I did notice some air flow escaping or some vacuum gasping 4 air and was wondering if this has anything to do with it. made me remember cuz you mentioned air flow.

[@YouTuby717]

I did this video because i found a few websites claiming they fix them, they do the same as in video and they only last a few months to maybe a year or more. But when they dont work (what they dont tell you) is - they charge you for shipping as well as diagnose fee ($150 total 4 just attempting to fix it) and if you want another one (new/used one) then its about $500. Now to save you that $150 why not try it yourself. Clean off the old solder off terms and add new solder it would last longer.

[@YouTuby717]

nope - i guess i have to buy one to see it work - lol. This one i guess its truely shot/gone but when you follow the procedure on this video it does work for other volvos but not this one... lol sorry took long to answer i didnt know someone commented on video - this my first upload lol ... pretty cook...

[@yuckuJackD]

Well that was a hard job. I finished it yesterday. I have reNEWed engine hip-hip-ole. It took me ll my free time for a mounth - ending work at 17:00, staring on working on car in 18:00 till 00:00-01:00 some sleep and some work till 17:00 and so on. I'm tired but i'm glad i did it. And do you know what - i did it 5 times cheaper and 10 times better than a shop, because i'm doing it for myself, you know. Is it pretty much straight forward? - next post... no symbols left :)

[@yuckuJackD]

well according to the dealer you should allays use new gaskets for the throttle body and for the intake manifold. Some more - this throttle body is known as a bad design unit. I'va managed to repair one using a non contact sensor. However the symptoms are different - rough idle, limp home mode, but not hard start. While starting the throttle sensors measuring is not monitored by the ECU (for the first 4-5 sec), so the throttle itself is not a suspect in this case

[@dnlmachine4287]

Sweet merciful heavens, TG I dont own Volvos. I just sell parts for them, and when I do me and the client usually cry a little. But my word those parts bring good monies!! Stay gold.

[@yuckuJackD]

Is it pretty much straight forward? - well you need to fabricate some tools to make you life easier and to avoid any damage to the camshafts (they are showed in the gallery so you're free to copy the idea). The most important thing to avoid the roubles you mentioned is not to mess with the VVT pulley - trust me, it's hard to adjust after that. You may remove the gear cup on it, putting some marks to make sure you'll place it in the exact same position after that. hey could we chat somewhere ..

[@YouTuby717]

I know what you mean i almost did the same thing by accident a small piece of metal almost went into the valves and i got so scared that i managed to take it out with a magnet stick - it didnt go down the hole it had stayed at the tip. Hey i cant see the link you posted - would of like to see what your advice was. Thanks 4 posting.

[@YouTuby717]

Now thats some work, have you ever done this (heads)? The reason i never took on a job like that was becuz - sometimes you have to keep marking locations as to camshaft teeth location must be exact place when you started or else you asking for trouble. Bent valves and cracked heads an occur if not paying attention. Is it pretty much straight forward? I would like to do all that cleaning to the valves and engine myself but like it said tooth/teeth locations must be precise or else.

[@YouTuby717]

u rite i found tremendous amount of heat damage in the cables - all the plastics are very dried out and the pipe was letting alot of really hot heat coming out of this corrugated pipe - like if the car over heated at some point. Im beginin to wonder if this was the cause that my ECU went bad. The car runs ok but sometimes i get a no start when cold starting the car - once its warmed up it doesn't do it the rest of the day until the next morning. Very morning it takes long to start the car.

[@yuckuJackD]

oh and one more advice: take your time and place new corrugated pipe for the cables for the injectors and what's more important - the cables for the spark plug hight voltage makers (i don't know how it's called in English - sorry, but you got what I mean). I see your corrugated pipe went bad. In case of overheating and mechanical brake in the insulation of those cables you may cause damage to car's ECU (errrrr ECM according to Volvo - Engine Control Module). That would be expensive you know ...

[@yuckuJackD]

If you got ANY other problems with your (your son's) car - i'll be happy to help you - just ask

[@aaroncameronjr2847]

You may need to first check your alternator belt and battery when you have less than 12.20 you will have your lights come on to give you this issue. This car is an amp hog so when you think you have an issue with your ABS you just may low amps for the system to work. Plus you could just have a bad ALTERNATOR OR ITS GOING BAD. I have looked into this real deep and you will not get a bad batt light. So just try it check your volts charge up your battery then see what happens

[@johnferguson7235]

+Aaron cameron jr It should throw a code for the under voltage. But you are correct that electric supply at the module should be checked before removing the module. This is a very common failure point for Volvo.

[@YouTuby717]

yes i been trying that + or - to activate cruise control - the majority of the cars thats how you activate cruise control....

[@chuckfults9256]

ATLEAST YOU TRIED DUDE !!!!! Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained RIGHT?

[@hollisglodon4959]

i did what i see in the video but it did`t work, where can i get a good used one to buy for a 2004 xc90t6 i need to ship it to Trinidad

[@johnferguson7235]

+Hollis Glodon There are a number of online Volvo forums. I would look on those forums to see if anyone has posted some information; you are not the first person to have these issues. You can also post up a question. You can drive the car without doing any damage but the ABS won't work. I can not imagine how expensive Volvo parts are in Trinidad. You're fortunate to live in such a beautiful place.

[@YouTuby717]

ok - i didnt know that you cant post links but i see the links now - looking at it now - thanks - good info. Only if youtube allows to email the links instead, i also noticed on other things thats not links they flag it too. like certain details on other subjects - its not free speech after all - huh?

[@YouTuby717]

meant to say - pretty Kool....

[@YouTuby717]

yes i read it you can delete it - let me see if i can start a skype i had a ICQ like 10/15 years ago but dont know if it still works. I will try right now - please hold. thx.

[@yuckuJackD]

OK. I'm away for 10 minutes, but for sure i'll be back in less than 10 :)

[@YouTuby717]

yea thats true - repairs are expensive - you have to go to the stealers just to program your visor mirror or car wont turn on. lolol

[@yuckuJackD]

tell me when you read the previous post, so that I'll be able to delete it

[@yuckuJackD]

When you remove the upper half of the intake manifold you really want to tap the bottom side with something so that there is no chance some rubbish to fall. Trust me, I was forced to do a head renew job because of somebody's not well done job in installing a aftermarket GPL system - they've drilled a whole in the bottom side of the manifold without removing it and all the excess aluminium went... to the valves. Here is a cheap way in tapping it: media.snimka.bg/s1/2215/030674656.jpg

[@vidchic18]

Does it matter what type of solder?

[@YouTuby717]

yea like where? to chat..

[@yuckuJackD]

you tube don't let me post links Remove the spaces and paste in browser h t t p : / / media.snimka.bg/s1/2215/030674656.jpg ? r = 0 if you're intereseted in the whole gallery made during that repair this is the link: h t t p : / /yuckujackd.snimka.bg/automobiles/b6294s-engine-head-restore.749492.all

[@YouTuby717]

your right but it belongs to my son and i warned him about the Volvo ahead of time. As you know the teens now a days has to go through the experience first before they understand. so i let him buy the car..... lol

[@lsi624]

Ive got a solution to having a Volvo....torch your vehicle and after upping your insurance.