2000 Yamaha YZF-R1 Engine Rebuild - Part 18

[@andrewsisty0]

Yes thank you so much I found that even on my 2015 bike ALL these videos have been very helpful. I will say the manufacturer manual is obviously mandatory. The videos just help so much to reaffirm what I read and give me confidence to complete each task at hand. You come across as very intelligent, as well have good foundation of general knowledge of engine's inner workings. Again, Thank you

[@repomannv]

I never try to out think the design engineers, so for me, within spec is the requirement, but yes in general the more flat the pastigauge, the tighter the tolerance and that's good (as long as its within the spec tolerance). Some would argue the same on valve clearance - that tighter is better.

[@patrickjohansson3076]

awesome been look all the video parts! Well done sir!

[@mitchhayes1969]

Wonderful video series. Thank you for making these. The manual says the connecting rods are supposed to be assembled according to the numbers written on the side but mine have been cleaned thoroughly and there are no numbers. Do the tabs on the connecting rod bearings go on the same side of the big end of the rod? The manual doesn’t have it specifically. Thank you.

[@repomannv]

Assuming you are replacing all the bearings, and keeping the existing rods, the main thing is just to check clearances and make sure everything is within the spec; all the rods are the same part #. If memory serves, there is a stamping on the crankshaft will give you what big end bearings came out of the factory for each connecting rod, so go with that, but measure w/ plastigauge to be sure that's still within correct spec. I think there's a diagram in the manual that shows how the tabs on the bearings should be oriented. Sorry, its been a very long time since I worked on an R1 motor - I mostly ride dirt bikes now and work on single cylinder motors 🙂

[@mitchhayes1969]

@@repomannv Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the manual does not have this. I’m just being double sure that I don’t have the caps backwards since the numbers are no longer visible. In your video, you show the tabs on the same side.

[@sylvain5712]

hello, is it normal to have a lot of oil in the stator housing? thank you for your videos they are great!

[@repomannv]

A lot, no. A little bit, yes. That area should be mostly dry, it doesn’t need oil, so if you see a lot of oil, a seal must be leaking

[@sylvain5712]

Are it the crankshaft seals that make the seal?

[@repomannv]

@@sylvain5712yes I think that’s the only way for oil to get into that compartment, I’m going off memory.

[@HardiHawleriKURD]

THANK YOU!

[@MisterFuturtastic]

In the one example you showed measuring with the plastigage it was on the high end of the measurement.. isn't that good? I would think it would be bad to be on the low end rather than the high end or am I wrong?

[@Papergames1463]

If you tighten the bolts can you reuse them? Asking cause the manual says that they stretch and cant be reused.

[@jf5543]

My thinking is that reusing the bolts will almost certainly be ok, but since the bolts themselves are cheap, why not just use new ones? yes they will stretch a little when new, that's why you follow the procedure in the service manual for how to torque them down

[@Papergames1463]

@@jf5543 problem is that we torqued down the bolts closed up the cases all with new bolts as well and upon doing the valve work the other mechanic tried turning the engine using the bolt on the magneto and snapped it off. So we had to disassemble everything to get the piece of bolt out of the crankshaft and it'll take about a month for the new ones to be delivered.

[@jf5543]

I'd reuse them

[@Papergames1463]

@@jf5543 would that go for the crankcase bolts as well?

[@jf5543]

yes

[@Papergames1463]

The conn rod bolts that is...

[@repomannv]

Just realized I had this video marked "private". Sorry about that, fixed now.