2000 Yamaha YZF-R1 Engine Rebuild - Part 19

[@jack4q2]

You do need to torque, then re -torque again to separate specs as it is how to properly tighten motor so runs quiet and smoother. Best ride 30 miles and retorque to specs and great result. Great series of video.

[@repomannv]

I was using PC-04 Pro Circuit Assembly Lube, but you can use any good quality assembly lube or lithium grease. My thinking is that since the factory manual was published 12 years ago, there have been some better oil/lube/grease products to hit the market. No matter what you use, make sure to lube the spots the manual says, and you'll be fine - engine oil will even work if you have nothing else.

[@alexxxark]

You answer much faster than my local yamaha service thank you very much for youre help

[@repomannv]

I did not. I had to make a judgement call on the rod bolts and nuts - on the one hand if you use new ones the bolts have to be "stretched" using a very specific procedure which I did not have the proper tool for. Re-using the bolts meant they were already stretched the proper amount, but you are right, the best practice is not to reuse them. The factory manual is clear that each nut has to be torqued completely in one continuous motion, and I did so as specified.

[@Supra2winTurbo98]

Ya i watched a few videos where they used a stretch gauge. But my manual didn't have the specs so i opted out of using it. Probably a good thing cause i don't want to spend more money on tools. I'll probably end up taking a leap of faith too. I got the same color bearings as what was in the engine before...I'm using the same crank and rods so should be the same.

[@repomannv]

Thanks aidan - motor is going back in the frame now, start button will be hit REAL soon. I'll capture it on video, no matter what happens.

[@Combine1777]

btw, is there PART 18?

[@Supra2winTurbo98]

Hey John.. Did you ever use plastiguage to measure the big end bearing clearance? From my understanding you can't reuse the bolts from the rod caps once it's torqued down. Also why do you say when you torque the bolts on it has to be in one go? I would think it'll be better to tighten each side a little at a time until you reach spec torque... that way you get an even distribution.

[@repomannv]

yes I did. Oil discussions are like religion, but I believe the generally accepted best practice is to break-in a new engine with standard petroleum based oil, and then switch over to fully synthetic if you choose to do so, after the break in period. You need the components, particularly the piston rings to wear in and fit the cylinder walls, and fully synthetic oil does not allow for that wear as effectively.

[@Supra2winTurbo98]

Hey John. Did you use regular 10 w 40 motor oil in the cylinder wall? I've read one of the best oils to use is 2 cycle motor oil since it'll burn off fast. Just wanted to know your thoughts on that.

[@HectorRodriguez-bx5fp]

What is the ring end gap for these bikes i own a 2004 are they all the same?

[@alexxxark]

John can you tell me what red lube you used in manual they whant me to use some lithium griz base water i think , or i can use any griz ,in my stores they dont now what is this(sorry for my english)

[@SuperMalafaia]

John, tdo well? I live in Brazil and I'm buying a R1 2008 and is a loud noise in the engine. Idling does not only accelerates the 2,000 when she turns up-tec tec makes loud and clear what can be? I think it should be tre been taking spinning, do not know if I buy it or not. help me. and many thanks and congratulations for the videos.

[@repomannv]

@Combine1777 thanks man. part 18 is in the playlist which you can subscribe to. I'll put backwards video links in the description.

[@yzfr6806]

importend question..! i cleaned the crankcasebolts and threads too, but when i put te case back togheter, i forgot to lubricate the crankcasebolts. Hopefully it is not to bad..is it? tightening the bolts with 60 degrees is 60 degrees right?

[@Combine1777]

great video! keep it up! cant wait to see more :)

[@businessman953]

hello how many pound of torque you give it to the connecting rod nuts

[@repomannv]

edecio castillo 25ft.lbs

[@meganburke4681]

what lock tight did you use??

[@repomannv]

Blue Loctite, 242. It comes in a liquid or as a paste in a tube, I really like the paste.

[@meganburke4681]

I have deep marks on the left shift folk, on the right side of it should I replace it, don't really want to spend the money

[@repomannv]

Shift forks that have gouges in them are pretty common, surface damage won't compromise the integrity of the shift fork, but it will likely cause you some issues during normal operation when shifting. The factory service manual says to replace any shift forks that have any visible damage. My recollection is that the shift forks aren't that expensive to replace, especially if you find some good used ones.

[@ciogon]

SupermotoJohn Hey man...I followed your videos with this rebuild...I have a 2002 fuel injected R1..and I was thinking i might do a rebuild this winter...I want to replace piston rings,and cranckshaft bearings..but I have a dilema...how do I know what kind of bearings I need??If mine are white..I must put also white.or do I have to measure first the clearance with the old bearings and then to know the ones that I need?or only replace the bearings with the same colour?Thanks a lot...

[@repomannv]

ciogon The easiest thing to do is get new bearings that are the same colors exactly as the ones you are replacing. Under normal circumstances, there is no reason to re-measure and change them if you are using the same crankshaft and piston rods (both are hardened steel and don't wear).