2003 Toyota Corolla | Oil Leak | Valve Cover Gasket | Crankshaft Seal | Tensioner ORing | Spark Plug

Welcome back to the channel
In this video I show you how to replace a crankshaft seal, valve cover gasket, tensioner O-ring, on a 2003 Toyota Corolla with a 1.8 L engine mated to a automatic transmission. This is something you can definitely attempt at home to save yourself some money of course provided you have the right tools and know how. Hopefully my video provides you all the know-how that you need to tackle this job. Of course if it does and you find it entertaining please subscribe to the channel to support my work.
As always thank you for watching and we will see you in the next one...

[@tjvee2625]

First time viewer. Subscribed at the first f&$k. This is how we work on cars. With lots of expletives. So we don’t break shit instead.

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

I agree LOL

[@jlw1985]

The torque spec is don’t break them hahaha love that, thanks for this vid, my Corolla is getting ready to have this all done soon, and the oil pan, going to be a long busy Saturday for me. Again thank you for this, I’m sure I will be going back to this for reference while I work

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Hey Joel, I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully you find all the information that you need in it. Don't forget to hit that subscribe button :-).

[@jairoramirez2135]

good video, well explained. You give details of everything and the tool you need. new follower 👍

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Hey my friend, thanks so much for the comments I really appreciate it. Thank you for subscribing.

[@user-hz2oq2xx1n]

First, I love your videos. They are very well explained. What kind of silicone is the one you are using? Can you post the description, please?

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Hey my friend thank you for watching. The silicone that I use is Pirmatex the right stuff. It is really good stuff which you can find all over North America.

[@lobdsk]

I love the bloopers

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Thank you for watching

[@MarzNet256]

You can use a thin long piece of wood with 2 finish nails at one end about 1/2" apart. This can be used to help guide belt onto hard to reach pulleys

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Not a bad idea. Usually I try to sneak it into place with my pry bar if I'm not stubborn otherwise I just complain pushing it on my hand LOL

[@daanialkhan4261]

Hey jimmy do you recommend the use of engine cleaner additives to get rid all the deposits of oil ? i have exactly the same car model and need help. Love all the way from Pakistan

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Hey my friend. I don't usually recommend using I don't usually recommend using engine oil cleaner additives as they don't usually do a great job. In my experience over time they usually cause more harm than good. If you feel the oil is really gummed up in the engine you can sometimes use a bit of ATF like 500 ml to a liter to help clean up the engine because ATF has quite a bit of detergent in it. Of course you would have to let it idle right before an oil change don't drive with the ATF in the engine and then do your oil change. The best method for cleaning your engine is simply to take nice long drives Highway drives essentially and change your oil prematurely. If you are going to use an additive or cleaner make sure you do your research unfortunately I don't have any good ones to recommend to you. There is a wonderful Channel that sometimes test stuff like this. It's called Project Farm check that out or Chris fix might have something as well. But just be careful I don't recommend putting in anything other than engine oil. Good luck my friend.

[@junzilla13]

Jimmy, I tried to do the front main seal on a 2003 Corolla and it was way harder! Firstly, my impact rated at 300 ft/lb couldn't break the bolt. I had to bump start it with a breaker bar to loosen. Next the harmonic balancer didn't come out nearly as easily. I had to walk to AutoZone to borrow a pulley kit. Next the god damn seal was so old and crusty it didn't want to come out. I got some of it out piecemeal before my pick tool broke. I drilled a hole in it and then screwed a screw in there and removed with the other end of a hammer. I don't know how you make it look so easy

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Hey, I really appreciate you posting. Unfortunately Sometimes some jobs will just fight you. There's not much you can do but go along for the ride. Thankfully you were able to get the job done. Hopefully you never have to do it again lol. Hopefully whatever you do next on the car goes away smoother. Good luck my friend.

[@junzilla13]

@@JimmysAutoClinic Jimmy, I've taken fixing my wife's car as a hobby. Nothing is smooth and there's always like three broken things to change before I get to the root problem. Thanks for the video!

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

LoL I hear you my friend that is the mechanic life 🤣 . I'm glad you're enjoying it just as much as we do. But all jokes aside it is really satisfying when you fix something. I got a few more Corolla videos for you. Good luck my friend

[@darkdeath2529]

In all fairness, that long-term oil leak played a significant part in its easy removal

[@CallieCEntertainment]

Quick question, about how many hours would you say you put into this? And tip: if you pop the back of the wheel well and clean out the gunk and debris that's built up there, you'll prevent (or fix!) leaks that appear in the passenger front and rear footwells.

[@deadline7610]

Nicely Done

[@Hammerback0]

My 08 Carolla needs some attention. Last summer the A/C clutch went bad, i simply didnt use it as summer was nearing its end. Well, a few days ago, driving to work, i parked and hesrd something and smelled what i associated with hot oil. Popped the hood and saw pieces of rubber stuck on bottom side of hood as if the belt started coming apart, further investigation revealed the rubber around/behind A/C began coming apart. Fortunately i was able to bypass the compressor altogether and make the 65 mile drive home after work. During the repair I noticed oil in several areas that i need to track down and fix. I change my oil every 3k religiously, and between changes i have never neededto add oil, so the leak isnt very bad, just need to locate it. Its getting on the belt somehow and therefore the belt is transferring a little oil over a large area.

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Hey my friend. Most likely the oil is going to be coming from your crankshaft seal. It's a common area for oil to leak and will definitely get on the Belt if it's a bad one. Usually it won't leak onto the floor as it is a pressurized leak and only usually happen under some load when driving the car. However you will see some drips here and there as residue builds up. As for the AC compressor your bearing probably went bad and needs to be replaced sometimes they do sell the clutch kit for them separately. Good luck my friend I hope this helps if you're in the Toronto area reach out I may be able to help you.

[@Mixter81]

100% good job. Its the 3ZZ-FE engine right. 1.6L

[@Hammerback0]

Grandma should be made to walk to the grocery store a few times, perhaps she would learn the importance of timely oil changes😂😂😂

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

LOL man that's cruel but yeah maybe that might work.

[@deadline7610]

Nicely Done. Quick off topic question. 2003 corolla - black tape has fallen off in engine compartment around wires now exposed. Does toyota use specific tape - your thoughts/suggestions ? Thanks

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Thank you. For wiring Toyota uses a combination of electrical tape as well as plastic conduit, wiring loom split tubing. It's like a plastic sheath basically that goes over that does overtime rot away. One of the best types of electrical tape for harnesses is usually used by German cars. Kind of feels like a sticky cloth sort of tape. That stuff tends to be really good I would just replace it with that or you can get the conduit from any different places.

[@papaindomitable5861]

Good job ❤

[@REVIEW_JUJUR]

*Thx man...*

[@gr2262]

So to be clear, the crankshaft seal is suppose to go flush with the crankcase and NOT inserted fully?

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Yes it should be flush with the timing cover. If it is slightly in it's not the end of the world but it is ideal to be flush. By slightly I mean like half a millimetre to a millimetre no more than that.

[@deebee3901]

Hi Jimmy, did the car come back for regular oil changes? Were all oil leaks confirmed as solved?

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Hi my friend yes the car did come back for regular service and it was confirmed that the oil leaks were not present anymore.

[@dominator8u281]

can you put the tensioner in and set it without turning the crank by hand?

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Hey, I'm not exactly sure what you mean by said it. If you mean unlock it, then yes. It's actually harder though to unlock without doing the crankshaft method. What you would have to do is reach down with a flash screwdriver and simply push back the chain guide into the tensioner to unlock it but if you break the plastic on the guide or damage it somehow it's not going to be fun. It is easier from what I remember just to turn the crankshaft and have the tensioner unlock that way. I hope that's what you're asking me. If not just let me know and I'll try to answer.

[@brassmule]

Grandma needs to run a few oil changes of 20% MMO for a bit. Lord have mercy but that poor motor is sludged. Great video, however, especially on resetting the tensioner by manually turning the engine after install.

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Thank you for watching :-), glad you found it useful.

[@ablackcrane]

When you placed the valve shaft in TDC is that necessary to do. I need to get the front crankshaft replaced but i don't know to put in TDC. Can I just replace the seal and not worry about the TDC on valve shafts

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

I'm assuming when you say Valve shaft you mean the camshaft. It depends on what seal you're talking about. If you're just replacing the crankshaft seal it doesn't matter where your timing is. You can replace it just taking off the crankshaft pulley in any position in terms of timing. Now if you're talking about the seal for your tensioner. It is advised to have it in top dead center. Because the chances of the camshafts wanting to jump timing or your chain wanting to move when you release tension will be less. Doesn't mean it's not possible it's just less chance of it jumping. The way you can find top dead center is by removing the number one spark plug and sticking a screwdriver down the hole make sure you don't damage the head rotate the engine and when the Piston comes all the way up you will know that you have top dead center but you want it to be on compression stroke of course with the spark plug out when you turn the engine you will feel the air comes through the hole more aggressively than when it's not on compression stroke. I hope this helps you out. If it doesn't feel free to reach out.

[@ablackcrane]

Thanks

[@ablackcrane]

I understand thank you jimmy

[@dominator8u281]

i have the same sludge situation, i've done many oil changes and maintenance over the last 17,000, now i have oil in the intake manifold and blow by, i already have a new PCV and just ordered a hose, what else could cause excessive blow by in the motor?

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Hey, Unfortunately the next thing that would cause excessive Blow by would be your piston rings. There's very little of that can be done other than rebuilding the engine or at the very least unseating the sludge from the oil rings. In the past what we have tried with some success is throwing in a half liter or half court of ATF right before an oil change and running it at idle for a good half an hour. ATF are very high in detergents that can help with breaking up carbon in the engine. Please keep in mind that this is a backyard mechanic remedy. Even though we have seen some success with removal of sludge and carbon it is not recommended and can cause more damage potentially. Even completely destroy your engine so please be careful and try it cautiously if you choose to. I hope that helps you. Good luck my friend.

[@kingofkards1110]

Is the front correct?

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Sorry my friend I don't know what you're trying to ask me can you elaborate.

[@kingofkards1110]

@@JimmysAutoClinic the seal for the crankshaft is called the front crankshaft seal? When I went to autozone they ask if it was the front or rear one

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Yes that is correct the seal that I replaced in the video is called a front crankshaft seal.

[@giovannifabian2024]

hi! can you please provide the part numbers? thanks

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Hey Giovanni, unfortunately I don't remember the part numbers. First thing to do would be to take your Vin number and contact your local Toyota dealership for the correct part numbers that apply to your specific vehicle. I hope that helps, if you have any questions feel free to reach out.

[@DhalNaath]

you dont have to be TDC to replace the tensioner

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Technically you don't but if your camshafts move on you it's just more of a pain in the ass to set back. So it is always advised to find TDC because the cams will be at rest.

[@uniman6760]

How much did you charge?

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

I don't remember what I charged.

[@111theduke111]

Did you know that the crank shaft seal was leaking? How did you know?

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

I did know the crankshaft seal was leaking. How I knew is because there was residue on the inside of the crankshaft pulley. Also it is a common issue with the Toyotas and they generally leak by 150000 km. Good luck

[@111theduke111]

Thanks!

[@cshillman]

I’m gunna need a lot of brake clean

[@JimmysAutoClinic]

Oh no, that's going to be exciting. Good luck my friend.

[@Realm2th3w]

11:31

[@philliptaylor5981]

This engine has horrible sludge! I'd do more than 2 revolutions of the chain. I don't think the tensioner was working correctly.

[@monquttejay7419]

Too bad changing the crankshaft seal is no where near this simple on a 97 corolla