2006 Chevy HHR Serpentine Belt Replacement

When you need to replace your engine/serpentine belt, you will need to purchase the serpentine belt tool from Harbor Freight ($17). Once you have it, you need to remove the front passenger wheel and then remove the inner wheel well guard that goes right along side the engine. Once you have done that you will need to cut your serpentine bar that you got from Harbor Freight down to about 16 inches. Once you've done that it will fit up on the idler pulley and also clear front passenger drive axle when you release the tension on the idler pulley to remove the belt.
Note: When removing the splash guard in the wheel well, they are held by plastic pins. The first thing you do is remove the inner part of the pin by wedging a screwdriver under it and wiggling it out. Once you've done that the outer part of the pin will then be able to be removed. The best tool to use is an upholstery tool that makes the pin removal the easiest. But in a pinch you need to just use a flat head screwdriver. Make sure you do the two-stage removal with the inner part of the pin coming out first and then the second part of the pin coming out once the middle is removed. Once you've done all that just pull back the wheel well splash guard and pin it against the rotor. Then crawl under and you will gain full access to the idler pulley and belt. Good luck.

[@johnh5299]

Wanted to say Big thanks. i spent hours trying to replace that belt after changing the oil seal, about to give up and take it to some shop, i decided to give you tube one more look and i came across this one , after viewing it i went back and cut of the serpentine tool and vol-la done, Perfect !!

[@Jariya101]

Thanks for the video! I had to replace the alternator and couldn't pry the tensioner pulley to get the belt back on. Your vid helped me out alot!!

[@shoolsux]

Thank you so very much, I used a socket cap and then a wrench to move the tensioner.

[@The13kenny13]

Thanks

[@mbouchard5448]

thank you very much for this clear and well explained video which will allow me to do the job!! thanks!!

[@civilizedbusta]

that came right om time! thank you for that video

[@Exlecticution]

I disliked your textboook approach to this change method and thus took a different approach of using my bottle jack to lift the tensioner with severeal socket extensions i had braced between the idler arm and jack. Swapped the belts in 10 seconds and lowered the jack no issues. Quick, fast, and saved trip to buy "special tools".

[@AboveandBeyondGlobalDrones]

Have seen many do it your way.

[@katburgess887]

Dude...after so many shits god dammits and fuck this' WE NEVER THOUGHT TO CUT THE DAM BAR!!! ty for the epiphany!!!

[@AboveandBeyondGlobalDrones]

2006 HHR seems to be the one for Bad Alternators. Mine went at 77K miles. Got the Battery light, replaced Battery ($150 @ Advance Auto 3 yr free replace) but "Check Charging System" still on dash. OBDII says No Alt. output. ($140 for rebuilt). This after just replace both front HUBS.

[@MrBossHoggAOL]

it was a Harbor Freight Tool and only $12 I believe.

[@MrBossHoggAOL]

Glad to hear

[@MrBossHoggAOL]

Chain...does not need to be changed or replaced. Its good for the life of the engine.

[@AGwolf2097]

this is potentially false information. While chains ARE supposed to be lifetime items, the engineering of both the balance chain and timing chain systems have some common and rather detrimental flaws in the series of Ecotec engine from the HHR, Cobalt, Saturn, etc. The original timing chain tensioner received three revisions to fix early failures in the initial designs (the proper, final design has a taller head and a bulge/nipple on it, the design with the early failure problem has a thinner head and no nipple. You can see it by looking down at the backside of the engine on the passenger side of the vehicle). The tensioner would loosen significantly over time, requiring early replacement of potentially the entire chain and guide system, depending on how long it had been driven in that state. The bolts for the stationary timing chain guide are also fairly weak, and susceptible to being sheered off (moreso the upper one) if the chain develops too much slack and starts attacking the stationary guide. A couple online retailers sell upgraded ARP bolt kits for the guides. A number of individual people have also made custom solutions for the upper guide bolt in the event that the bolt has sheered off. Previously, you would have to pull the head to remove the snapped bolt. Their solution was to make a bolt that threaded into the access hole and had a post that essentially replaced the upper bolt and anchored the stationary guide. Even if the original bolt had sheered off, you could just leave it in the head with their custom replacement. Dorman either copied this idea or came up with it on their own, and they sell the same basic idea as part number 917-954

[@MrBossHoggAOL]

Sorry..the first video didnt come out, so I didnt post it.

[@georgemccarthy5024]

where's the first video??

[@natevizzi2901]

hey how much should i cut off of the tool .... so frustrating

[@natevizzi2901]

i don't see you comment, but i did have to cut the tool that was the only way i could turn it without it hitting somthing from any angle i tried to turn it

[@RiffBoyRocks]

Does the HHR have a timing chain or a timing belt?

[@scotpurdy8132]

Timing chain.

[@sirsweetness6047]

Chain. Just did a valve cover gasket job today along with changing serpentine belt.

[@sirsweetness6047]

Cut the serpentine belt tool in half and it took me 4 minutes to take old off and put new on. Simple once I stop fiddling with 3’ long bar.