2008 Ford Escape - How to Change the Lower Control Arm

Even though I prefer to work on my Triumphs, sometimes the daily driver needs attention as well. So this video is about the lower control arm on my 2008 Ford Escape Limited AWD. This model is the same from 2005 to 2012 if I remember well.

[@doccowin8236]

I don’t know what I would do without you guys that demonstrate the many ways you can screw this up, I had to laugh my ass off at the part where you had to stop the camera be cause the jack stand was in the way so you had to start over

[@sanford4457]

Well done Elin. Once again you show us that a regular guy, with some regular tools can do a repair that would inimidate most. Thanks again for the motivation and look forward to getting back to the GT6 and other Bristish classics!

[@thresaleecerda7526]

Thank you for this video! I've suggested to my husband that it might be a good idea to repair my front brake pads and rotors at the same time as this repair. I love my 2008 Mazda Tribute. It has 120,000 miles and we have invested thousands of dollars on major parts but we cannot afford a car payment at this time.

[@scoobywrx05dw]

Put back bolt in then front one then ball joint into steering knuckle. Tighten balljoint bolt and leave the others loose till you jack the car up under the balljoint to get the weight of the vehicle on it, like as if it was sitting on the ground with the tire on,then tighten the front and back bolts otherwise the bushings will wear out faster. There are torque specs for all of those bolts also.

[@billarlon7797]

Dave Wilkins I did it the way he did first. Ended up having to do it the way you suggested. Thanks for the tip the other side will go way smoother.

[@BigDaddyJinx]

Yeah start with the back one first, then balljoint one, and then front one. Like you said, get them hand tight and secure and then jack the rack to what should be around ride height and then secure and torque them. Not doing this will, as you said, lead to premature wear because now the control arm will always be tweaked as it rides and then hyper-extended when it hits bumps wearing out the bushings in short order. I was hoping someone else spotted this. LOL

[@markpiper8082]

a little tip remove the drive shaft from the hub and also the trackrod end then pull the hub out so you can fit the arm in level and get the rear bolt in then then do the front bolt up while the arm is level that way the bush wont twist when it lowered to the ground

[@RustyBeauties]

Thanks! Probably this is the right way, but it looks like it worked for me the wrong way :)

[@ChrisHornberger]

Ball joint last, dude. Always, ball joint last. I really cringed watching you put weight on that bolt, then slamming the control arm in to line it up. That's a thread destroyer. :(

[@MrAquinas1]

Right because you always have flexibility with the steering knuckle to align the ball joint. Also he didn't seem cognizant of torque values, especially not final torqueing the hinge bolt until the wheel assembly is at its static height.

[@irzyxelwj]

I just changed the front brakes, lower control arm, sway links and the hub assemblies on both front. Also the cv shafts. 2 days later someone chopped my catalytic converter. I'm so mad!

[@alvinjosephcorre6952]

How much is the labor to fix left and right? Thanks albertA

[@fauxmunk]

Great video. I adhere any way you could filter out the air noise?

[@BZentinela]

Question,if the lower arm control is starting to faili,would it cause a clunking noise when i tap the brakes??

[@mathewu9772]

Doesn't sound right, unless you are referring a slamming of the brakes causing a weight shift. This is more banging when the suspension moves and the control arm or ball joint are required to move. IE turns, curbs potholes, uneven terrain, etc

[@jameslarkin9752]

Thanks mon.😊

[@rottenbot]

Did it cure the problem?

[@bullwhipjohnson8247]

rottenbot I was wondering the same thing.

[@rottenbot]

bullwhip johnson, IT was when he said it looked ok after removal, I always start with the cheapest option, ie, Anti roll bar bushes, then drop links, then ball joints etc, full wishbone can be costly!! I would say most of the time for me, its the anti roll bar bushes.

[@RustyBeauties]

Yes, the rattle is finally gone. I did change the tie rod ends a month ago, because one of them was shaky but the problem remained. The anti roll bar bushes were next in my list if the problem wasn't solved, but I knew the control arms were bad because I saw the marks where metal was touching metal so they had to be changed for sure. Anyway that solved the problem, so for now I am not going to change the anti roll bar bushes

[@simbawizbeth]

@@RustyBeauties did the rattle happen when the you went over bumps or potholes?

[@justinlopez5895]

torque specs anyone? are these ok? balljoint 46-50ft/lb: front 85ft/lb: rear 110-150. let me know what would be better.thanks

[@BigDaddyJinx]

Rear 148. Front 85. Balljoint 52.

[@moralesruben974]

good video I have a ford escape 2010 has sounds down in front you can say it will be greetings and thanks.

[@carterdrake5283]

She said, "I like bad boys"... I whispered back to her, "I use chrome sockets on my impact."

[@kge420]

Proof that the GT6 is a better car the the Explorer. GT6 made 3 trips to Ontario and back with no issues. Explorer made one and its in the shop. Also, why does Carlos dislike this video?

[@RustyBeauties]

I agree! Next time I will come down with the GT6 as we agreed :) It looks like I have more than one Carlos already LOL I see 2-3 dislikes in some videos, but that is fine as long as they comment what bothered them in my video. Constructive criticism is always welcome!

[@kge420]

Elin Yakov Maybe we can do a Carlos drinking game.

[@ronkampsen1098]

Now that i am on my 2nd time for replacing the CA.. You didn't account for the measurement for how the vehicle sits prior to replacing the CA The way you did this will put a lot of extra stress on the joints and cause premature wear. You will be doing this again in about 3 years..

[@bullwhipjohnson8247]

When Edd China had a mysterious noise on Wheeler Dealers, he would always put the car up on a lift and shake, rattle and roll each part of the suspension until he found the problem. Saving time and money by only fixing what's broken.

[@RustyBeauties]

That is what I did a month ago. But since I found a problem with the tie rod ends I didn't look further and that was my mistake.

[@serbia991]

Never heard of a line up punch ?

[@TheUlrikkaul]

No welding?

[@RustyBeauties]

No, not yet on this car, but it needs some. I am not sure when will I find time for it though and it is a shame, because it is my daily driver and I need to be more friendly to it :)

[@joeserdynski1045]

No sheet metal ? ? ?

[@RustyBeauties]

Unfortunately soon there is going to be sheet metal repair on this car too. The rear wheel arches are in bad condition. But I am not looking forward to that

[@seeya205]

My 15mm bolt won't budge!

[@robertthornhill4379]

hi elin bob in the uk 9/10 +

[@liten48]

its ok elin you can take a break from the gt6, we understand lol

[@RustyBeauties]

I don't like it though, I want to stay on the GT6 until it is done

[@michaelverwers882]

Gonna have warped brake rotors by using an air wrench to tighten wheel nuts ! You should use a torque wrench !

[@BigDaddyJinx]

I disagree to a point. I always use my impact to get the nuts on and snug, and then I use a torque wrench to get them to spec (100 ft. lbs. for my ride). I have done this forever and have yet to experience warped anything. I might agree that if that is the ONLY way you're getting them tight then yeah this may eventually cause some issues. But as a general rule, for me at least, impact to get them on and then torque to get them to spec.

[@cpmorgans69]

Limited?? Mr fancy pants 🤭🤭🤭

[@cheftush]

First?

[@RustyBeauties]

That's better than 804-th!

[@markdrukenbrod9475]

Darn, no trunnions.

[@RustyBeauties]

LOL, no!

[@BruceBoschek]

Sometimes you just can't escape.

[@RustyBeauties]

LOL! Yes, no escape from the escape, it always catches up if I don't take care of it!