2009 F250 w/ 6.4 Powerstroke: #7 Injector Replacement

[@kevinoneill41]

Carbon on your injector is blow by and EGR. A delete, a nice well baffeled larger catch can with 1" ID tubing going to the inlet port and exit port is a must. Do not run smaller tubing or restrict the blow by flow in any way. I have a larger 4X7" DIY can well baffeled with SS wool pot scrubbys in to give the contaminants plenty to cling to. At the bottom of the can is a 3/8 ball check drain valve. This thing is mounted on the right hand frame rail just behind weare the passenger sits. I used two 4.5" muffler U bolts and saddles to mount it to the frame. Its solid and not going any were. The can is well filtered with the SS wool pot scrubbys so at this time it is vented to atmosphere. I don't see a benefit to mess with a very finely meatered air fuel ratio. That gives you the best cleanest combustion HP and MPG possible by pouring all the engine sewage back through the combustion chamber. A properly tuned deiesel engine should not give off black smoke if you have lots of filterd clean air, clean fuel and a professional tune.

[@bryanspelhaug2135]

Great video! I might need to change an injector at some point as well. Currently have 238K miles on original injectors.

[@kevinoneill41]

Losen your back cab mount Bolts remove the rest and jack up the front clip and cab 6 or 8 " it will help. Then remove the inner fenders you will thank your self after watch not to stretch any thing the top rad hose must come off the stesting shaft trans cable E breake harness connection etc pretty much as though you are going to take the cab off. Then jack it up and put wooden blocks under the cab mounts. Do not use an air hammer on the cab mount bolts. You will destroy the body mounted cage nuts. Use a breaker bar then a long ratchet. You will be going through the excesive factory locktight. If you destroy the cage nuts it will then turn into a much larger job. Removing seats and carpet. But will be much more DIY friendly. See videos on cab removal. To understand what your in fore. A couple of guys that work well together can remove a cab or jack it up in as much as an hour. Then put it all back in the same time. To me and piece of mind it's well worth it. Take pictures of things before you take things apart. It will jog your memory when you put it back together. Whtch the cab removal a few times. 👍

[@Thedoug369]

These things are indeed a pain in the posterior to work on. If you have a two post, save yourself some pain and yank the cab off er. Walk in the park after that. The injectors on a 6.4 pretty much just fall out once you're in there. No prying necessary, you can usually just pull em out with two fingers. Also don't re use those little metal injector lines. They need to be replaced every frickin time you crack em loose, or you gonna have issues. Like I said, these things are a royal pain in the arse to work on. That being said, they run like a scalded dog when they're deleted and tuned a bit. My 08 crew cab long bed was running 12.20s all day long before she shit the bed. Thinking about a 12v Cummins swap, or maybe twin turbo LS3?

[@kevinoneill41]

How did they get away with running the stock cold air filter? Once I did the delete a new air filter was so restrictive it was checking the engine and the replace the air filter light would come on.

[@Mighty-Quinn]

We've never had air restriction problems with this truck, but we do change all the filters every 5000 miles. Lots of dust where we live.

[@jesusgalvan2952]

Thanks Ford your video My truck now si same issue im goint to work replace inyector traint to save some money I hope I can make the Job well done. Thanks bro

[@tomfromtacomas7249]

Great video! Thanks for taking the time to film it Question where did you get the Torque specs from?

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Thank you! I got the torque specs from a service manual I purchased on Ebay. It was missing a couple sections, but what it did have was complete and accurate.

[@tomfromtacomas7249]

Thanks Owen

[@kevinoneill41]

A little oil in the intake tube is common. Im runming a catch can. Now. The trick is to use 1" ID water pump hose on a cach can in and out and be sure you don't have any kinks, blow by seems extensive on these engines. So check the can afew times untill you get used to emptying it. PS I made my own can and put a baffel plate in it. I don't know just seemed like a good idea 👍. I love this engine when its running properly so I'll give it what Ford and International didn't (some thought) please keep the tunes down. These engines will pull there heart out. But please don't race them. That is just trouble. I have taken mine to the governer once or twice and not for long and they will give you all on too much HP. but its Not HP you want you will regret it. Want to race. Build a race engine just not this one.

[@kevinoneill41]

Do you need new fuel lines when you change an injector? Replacing that zap strap. I would replace all those. As they get pretty brittle. You're in there anyway. P.S great video. Isn't the glow plug sensor in this side? Maybe go ahead and replace that as well. Like I said I don't know what the odometer is reading. But I have read that they can be weak

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Yes, the injector to fuel rail lines have to be replaced. Once you tighten then down, they can't be reused when you take them off. Something about the material forming a seal, like a crush washer. It's kind of a stupid design in my opinion, and very wasteful.

[@kevinoneill41]

It looks like it did get an EGR delete. What does the odometer say?

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Yes, this truck does have an EGR delete. It has 280k miles on it right now, but I replaced this injector at 277k miles.

[@crankshaftwilly6740]

How do you test one of these injectors and how many volts does it take to operate the injector?

[@Mighty-Quinn]

The only way to test the injectors is to use a scan tool to activate the injector self test, and go from there. All that does is tell you if the injector is working right or not; it won't tell you what specifically is wrong (if anything). There's generally a separate code for any specific issues that the PCM can detect. Although, the only way an injector would fail the test is if it was completely shot, or the wires going to it were bad. I did read in the service manual that they activate at anywhere from 80 to 200 volts. I think (not 100% sure) that the normal 12 volts goes into the injector, then the injector ramps up the power as required to actuate it. The PC/ED is not super clear on this, but I am fairly confident the 16ga wires on the injection harness are not pushing 80-200 volts at all. Somebody posted the entire PC/ED for the 6.4 on this website: www.powerstroke.org/threads/6-4l-powertrain-control-emissions-diagnosis-service-manual-2008.1268346/ (scroll down to the end of that guy's posts, he uploaded the whole thing as a PDF so you don't have to download every section separately like I did) That might help you out. Hopefully. I'll answer any more questions you have, if I can.

[@TheGameHive370]

I have a 2008 f350.. is the odd cylinders on the passenger like this or the driver side?? I need to replace the #5 injector

[@Mighty-Quinn]

The odd numbered cylinders are on the passenger side. Starting at the cylinder at the front of the motor, and moving toward the back of the motor, the passenger side is numbered 1, 3, 5, 7. The drivers side has all the even numbered cylinders. They are numbered 2, 4, 6, 8 from the front of the motor to the rear. That's how International numbered them, and thankfully Ford just accepted it. Apparently Ford numbers cylinders differently from everyone else, but since this isn't a Ford built engine, they stuck with International's system. Good luck on your repair!

[@TheGameHive370]

@Owen Bishop thanks for your swift reply. Like I said I didn't know if it was different from f250 to f350. Mine says cylinder 5 misfire. I wonder if it could be as simple as replacing the glow plugs.... 🤔 white smoke shaking and rough idle

[@Mighty-Quinn]

@@TheGameHive370 No problem. I can understand wanting to double check if there are any differences, manufacturers like to pull that crap. Injectors aren't too bad to replace, honestly. The passenger side is more difficult, and #7 is the hardest one for sure. But, it really wasn't awful. You can't see it all that well, but it's doable. #5 should be easier. The worst part is draining the coolant and taking everything apart. If you haven't ever had that valve cover off, I suggest having a new valve cover gasket on hand, just in case. Big thing is take your time so you don't break all the damn plastic lol

[@TheGameHive370]

@Owen Bishop you made a great video. Only one that was usable so far! With the symptoms I'm having would the glow plug be worth trying first? Also I don't have a way to tune the engine after I replace the injector. I know it's a crazy question. But why do you have to drain coolant?

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Well I'm glad the video is helping someone. I often wonder if what I upload is helpful, since a lot of it is kinda lengthy. With what you've told me, I would say you have an actual injector going out. These pickups do not like to throw misfire codes, even when there's an obvious misfire. So, if you got an actual misfire code, chances are #5 injector is about finished. Glow plugs are cheap, even if you buy the Motorcraft ones (I'm looking at RockAuto prices, mind you). It certainly wouldn't hurt to try that first, and see if it fixes your issue. My understanding of glow plugs is that they warm up, but they also stay warm while the engine is first firing, to help warm the fuel and the combustion chamber. If your truck runs like garbage on initial startup while its actually cold outside (not room temp cold, more like "My glasses fog up" cold), then it gets better and runs fine once it warms up for a minute, it *could* just be a glow plug. I would put my money on an injector though. If you end up doing an injector, it wouldn't hurt to replace the plug while you're in there. Heck, you could just do all of them if you have the money. I've never had to replace plugs in my 6.4, so you're kinda on your own in that department. They don't look hard to replace though. Finally, you shouldn't have to tune the engine after an injector replacement. The PCM *should* do that for you. My strong advice is to buy a reman FORD/Motorcraft injector. Don't buy any others, especially the Delphi ones. The part number is CN-6054. That's what I used in the video, and #7 hasn't given me any problems since. Also clear codes and the High Pressure Fuel Pump adaptive tables (if you can). If you can't, it might be fine. But idk for sure. Now about draining the coolant: In order to get the passenger valve cover off, you need to remove several components. There is a heater hose that connects right above the valve cover, and makes it difficult to remove. BUT, in order to disconnect the heater hose without making a mess, you need to drain the coolant out of the engine. Not all of it, just a gallon or two at least. Now technically you can maneuver the valve cover out of the way without disconnecting that hose, but I've found its 10 times easier to take an extra step and remove a few more components than is absolutely necessary; rather than trying to remove the bare minimum, and fighting everything that is still in your way.

[@Crockedflyer811]

3:00 😂 you just got a really hot tune

[@MohammedNaushad-z9q]

Thanks it is a great help

[@redraddo]

i just did #5, wasnt really that bad. Only thing that pissed me off was the back valve cover bolt!!🤣🤣

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Yeah, that back bolt is a bitch. The trick is to not tighten down as much so it's easier next time haha

[@arturo5819]

About how long did it take you? I'm about to do the same thing bud injector 1

[@Mighty-Quinn]

It took me a few hours, but that's just because I ran to town for things halfway through. Actual time spent was about 2 hours, which wasn't bad for my first time doing it. I also ended up replacing injector 3 after I made this video, and I had the job done in about 30 minutes. Everybody says the 6.4s are hard to work on, but in my opinion they aren't any worse than anything else once you know how they come apart. I've taken the passenger valve cover off a lot, so I'm pretty good at it now lol.

[@arturo5819]

@Mighty-Quinn thanks for the reply. I was on the fence about doing it myself bc mechanics around here rape you lol

[@GearSlammer]

I’m currently having a similar issue with mine. Once it warms up while driving it’s good. Did yours act similar to that.

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Yes, it did act like that. Sometimes we'd have to restart it a time or two before it evened out. Filling the fuel tank also seemed to help, for some reason.

[@nathangraham3743]

How did you know what injector it was? Mine is doing the same thing

[@Mighty-Quinn]

I have a scanner that lets me read whatever the engine can detect. Things like fuel trim, power balance, various temperatures, etc. I didn't really get misfire codes, just power balance faults. So, between a combination of power balance tests, analyzing short term fuel trim, and killing injectors, I determined #7 was the bad injector. Later on #3 injector starting acting up, and I'm still kinda dealing with it. But #7 is mint, no issues since I replaced it.

[@nathangraham3743]

Thanks appreciate it

[@reginaldnewsome2176]

Quinn what type of scanner like name brand and where you can pick one up at ?

[@Mighty-Quinn]

The one I use is an Autel MK808, and it came from Amazon. I don't remember the price, I think it was on sale or something when we got it. It's not the most advanced scanner Autel makes, but it's worth the money in my opinion.

[@redneckofalaska5638]

I’m pretty sure you just pulled number eight injector if it was the left side back it’s number eight if it’s the right side back it’s number seven

[@kevinoneill41]

Um, air box is right side.👍

[@CoreyRinger-wv8ys]

Did you ever solve the issue? Mine is doing the exact same thing and throwing codes for 2&7 but only when cold start long idle before driving. Also thanks for sharing/ just ripped my turbo off tonight and was thinking of going after injectors.

[@CoreyRinger-wv8ys]

Also background 155k new injectors at 70k

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Yes, I did solve the issue with #7 injector. It's never been a problem since I replaced it. Unfortunately, (but not unexpectedly) #3 injector decided to become a problem. I replaced it with a Delphi injector, which was cheaper to buy, but the o ring on it disintegrated within 1k miles. Ypu get what you pay for I guess. So, I replaced that one with a Motorcraft, but it's still adding way too much fuel to that cylinder. Funny thing is, I don't have any oil dilution or abnormal oil loss. After some process of elimination, I beleive I've narrowed the cause of the problem to be the engine wiring harness (which I am currently working on replacing). I am very much hopeful that this fixes the problem, but I don't know yet.

[@Mighty-Quinn]

If you change your filters regularly, your injectors should be fine. The 6.4 I have is at 280k right now, and I've only put 2 injectors in it. The rest are factory. Now of course something could happen to cause an injector to wear out prematurely, but that really is just due to sub-par fuel filtration, or a hot tune. If you're changing your fuel filters every 5k-10k miles, and using the Motorcraft ones, it would be strange to see worn out injectors with only 80k miles on them. Not impossible, just out of the ordinary.

[@CoreyRinger-wv8ys]

The cold lope is gone then? Or is that what your still working on with wire issue- i believe my injectors were replaced during delete and head stud replacement/ before i got it.

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Yeah I'm still trying to solve the loping. The funny thing is, it's random. Sometimes it's on a cold start, sometimes when it's hot. It also smokes, but also randomly, and even the smoke is inconsistent. It may be white, or gray, or black, or it may not smoke at all. The randomness is what makes me think it's wiring. Cracked pistons, bad rings, or bad injectors don't just fix themselves. Unless the 6.4 I have is magical, haha!

[@cassidyberg3828]

Is that scanner the maxiCOM?

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Yes

[@cassidyberg3828]

Thanks!

[@ouimetco]

Looks like not to many oil changes have occurred.

[@Mighty-Quinn]

The oil has been changed regularly (about every 5000-7000 miles) since we got it. The truck had around 175k miles on it when we purchased it.

[@ouimetco]

@@Mighty-Quinn oh ya cool. The inside looks gummed up. I would suggest lack before you bought it. Whatever you do, do not “flush” it. I was a Ford tech for 15 years. We use to receive lease backs with 60k kilometres with original factory grey painted oil filter. They looked like that inside. I have a 2008 6.4 I’m currently fixing up. Love it. Great truck.

[@Mighty-Quinn]

Yeah, this truck came from an oilfield fleet down in Texas, so who knows how often they changed the oil. I kinda thought all the gum and such would've cleared up with the regular oil changes, but it never has.

[@kevinoneill41]

Naw it's all the goo recirculated through the EGR. Or the emission control failed science project.

[@getstuk87]

​@@ouimetcowhat is "lack"?

[@denissmith7434]

Looks like it needs more frequent oil changes

[@carllindstrom8217]

obviously very neglected

[@kevinoneill41]

Sounds like a end Cap ready go terminator.

[@lonniemaize6718]

Good information I think he just spent way too much time off subject. This video could’ve been a lot shorter.