2009 Toyota 1.8 Timing Chain Replacement pt. 2

This is the follow-up to the timing chain replacement on this Corolla 1.8. pt 1 is here: • 2009 Toyota Corolla 1....

[@nicklopez3580]

Thank you so much for taking the time and giving great detail

[@user-bo8yq3vy5k]

How did it work?

[@davidquintini1714]

Great video! A big job for sure! Great work and a very thorough explanation on how to get it done correctly. Keep them coming!

[@thebaldmechanichardatheari1124]

Thinking outside of the box on your sling. Great work.

[@klabeaume]

Thanks for the video. Lots of helpful info.

[@corollabaldera6813]

Thank you for spreading your knowledge

[@donaldisrael7147]

I really appreciate the struggle with rust you northerners deal with. When I had with the occasional rust bucket (wayward snowbirds) it was troublesome.

[@fasteddie0318]

Doing this job, I removed the ac compressor, no matter what I did the same bolt that broke on you broke on me. I was able to heat it, spray it and repeat. Got the bolt out. This one is not bad, three weeks ago I also did the chains on my 2012 tundra with the 5.7. A little more involved but it wasn’t too bad.

[@danman9017]

nice job

[@ibcrypto6139]

Your right to double check the way you did!!! I put the timing chain cover/pulley on to verify the lower timing marks - the marks on the lower gear does not really line up with the seem in the crank anyhow. ON the top it was "9" links between the cam marks. It kept wanting to skip a link. If you have the top chain marks you can use them but as soon as you rotate those marks will not line back up until you get around 90 rotations.... F.Y.I. this was on a 2.4 from 02 camry.

[@nicklopez3580]

I have taken my car apart 7 times I put 10,000 miles on my timing chain I took it apart again and found out my timing cover was broke replaced that and the tensioner guide is a pain because if u get any slack the chain moves it was in time put the whole thing together the cams are in time but the crank moved so I have to re do it again yay I'm so excited

[@PhillipBailey]

I feel your pain

[@RatanaTan]

Is Canada oem parts more expensive than California oem?

really appreciate the video and the time taken on this repair. I am struggling to find out if I jumped a tooth when i replaced the tensioner on it-- since i was getting chain slap. never heard that they don't fail-- but the chain slap is gone-- however now i am getting a p0016 which indicates that yeah it did jump a tooth or the chain is super stretched. I wonder if I can remove the tensioner and get it back in time without removing everything? Like could i get the chain to go back a tooth by removing tensioner and then manually. I also learned on these engines to not use DENSO plugs. go with NGK i just had to deal with one snapping a denso plug-- never had that happen with NGK and the gaps were way blown out after 30,000 miles on iridium plugs (i installed the denso's and they were torqued right). From my research I am done buying Denso plugs. NGK all the way.

[@PhillipBailey]

I'd give it a try. Line up the marks and remove the tensioner. If the chain is a bit worn it might help. You don't have much to lose.

[@karlsolitario8013]

did you ended up fixing it without removing the cover? I finished a headgasket job but I have the code p0015 I might have jump a tooth when I installed the tensioner

@@karlsolitario8013 so i tried and it jumped a bunch more teeth. i am going to try again with someone helping up top holding the cams while i adjust the crank-- but now it is like 6 teeth out at least. Im obviously not going to crank it and im going to pull the plugs so that I can make sure im not going to bend any valves and only move the engine by hand. But yeah I am going to give it a shot. The other thing people do is they replace teh VVT gears on the cams without removing the chain, so if you want to you can take the cams off and reposition them and then tighten everything down. However-- with that-- I figured that is about as much work as just redoing the timing chain anyway-- and I know it probably needs a new chain (on mine at least) because it was slapping before. But yeah I think people need to pay more attention on this engine that removing the tensioner can cause the chain to jump pretty easily and they should really clamp the chain to the exhaust cam before removing tensioner.

can anyone email me the FSM for a 1.8l DOHC toyota matrix 2009? I want to have it for when I redo the timing chain

[@PhillipBailey]

@ try Alldatadiy.com for information access. It's quite reasonable imo.

[@jim2611]

Hi Phillip, great videos 🙂. I have a Toyota Corolla automatic sedan ZRE152R with a 1.8L 2ZR-FE engine. I'm trying to decide whether to replace the head gasket (which means I'll need to remove the timing cover) or install a second-hand engine. I live in Sydney Australia but when I tried to find the DIY Workshop manual on the AlldataDiy website you referred to in comments it said Alldata is not available in your Country/region. I may need a kind soul to email me a copy as I'm sure the engines2ZR-FE engines are identical in the USA and Australia. I've watched KZbin videos of head gasket replacement (takes 12 hours) and also engine replacement (takes 8 hours and more expensive) - both do not look easy. My car started vibrating on idle and made knocking/pinging noises on acceleration when going uphill only. Oil is not being burnt or lost. The same with coolant as the level doesn't drop. There is no visible external leak of the head gasket. I tested compression and cylinders 1 & 2 are OK but 3 & 4 have identical low compression. So I assume the head gasket between those two cylinders is blown. I'm inclined to try the head gasket replacement but not 100% sure. Would you know of another source for the DIY Workshop manual for the 2ZR-FE? Would you have a copy to email? Cheers, Jim

[@PhillipBailey]

Thanks for watching. You are probably correct that you have a blown head gasket with two adjacent low cylinders. Replacing the entire engine with a good used one is technically less challenging. Whether to fix yours or replace it depends on a lot of factors... Is a used engine available, how many klms on yours? General condition on the rest of the vehicle. You will need quite a few parts and possibly cylinder head work once apart. I can help you with selected service information but I can't email you an entire manual. [e-mail] is my email address.

[@charlestailor8218]

Brand new camshaft gear comes unlock in the box. Did you lock the VVT-I sprocket after you tighten the bolt?

[@PhillipBailey]

No I didn't.

[@jordan6556]

On my 2010 Toyota Corolla repair manual said to release tensioner hook turn crankshaft to counterclockwise then clockwise. Now I have 2016 Toyota Corolla 2xr-fae should turn clockwise to release the hook

[@PhillipBailey]

Honestly I'm not sure as I didn't do it that way. I recommend to follow the instructions in the manual.

[@jordan6556]

The repair manual is for 2009-2013 ,I m not sure 2014-2019 are using same methods or not.

[@sonofsteve566]

1 question can't seem to find, do we have to worry about TDC and compression stroke????? or is it set correctly by lines?

[@PhillipBailey]

If the timing marks are lined up correctly it should be on TGC compression number 1.

[@mayronmontoya]

hi eric i have scion tc 2008 i been having some issues the car shake roughly at idle i have replaced vvt valve cam shaft sensor ,crank shaft sensor , i have cleaned the mass air flow sensor i have cleaned the throtter body alternator , spark plugs and coils are good but the car still shakes at idle and code poo16 doesnt go away should i replace the timing change please respond thank you

[@PhillipBailey]

More than likely the chain has stretched and will have to be replaced.

So I just Did chains guides and tensioner and still same rattle. Think I could be phasers? It doesn’t rattle on cold start just at like 2500 under load.

[@PhillipBailey]

Not much else left to change. This is the first one I did and I recommended replacement of everything using oem parts. I won't do it with aftermarket parts since I was burnt before. Sucks you have to take it all apart again.

@@PhillipBailey i think it is just the intake phaser making noise and i can potentially just do it through the top by taking off the camshafts and keeping it in time using bungee cords and vice grips) what do you think about that?

[@PhillipBailey]

@ remove the tensioner first and give it a try. I would for sure. Taking the timing cover off again will be time consuming for sure.

[@andyg5004]

There is a torque sequence for the timing cover. Bolts when you put it back on

[@PhillipBailey]

Yes there is. Basically start in the middle and work your way towards top and bottom gradually tightening til torqued.

[@andyg5004]

you start at the top then the middle bolts that hold the mount. And then work yourself down and up the the exhaust side in your case. I did the 2arfe engine and had factory service manual which explains it all. You should wait at least overnight for the sealant to dry before adding oil and starting the engine. If any codes do come drive it a few miles and they should clear up.

[@PhillipBailey]

@@andyg5004 thanks for the tips. I did have to wait for the tensioner so the sealant had overnight to cure.

[@WACKO1123]

You do not release the tensioner lock manually. The instructions state to rotate the engine using a socket on the crank bolt in the COUNTER Clockwise direction and listen for the click as it released the plunger. Then turn the engine Clockwise a few turns and watch that to chains is taut. Also the aligning marks WILL return to the starting pattern but only after several complete rotations of the engine.

[@PhillipBailey]

Ok thanks I guess I missed that in tge instructions. Thanks for the tip it's much appreciated.

[@andyg5004]

Techs at Toyota at the aren’t smartest. You have replace the tensioner with that your doing

[@toggAmerica]

This job how much time did you do for this job

[@PhillipBailey]

This took around 12 hours.

[@Wifeplaysvideogames]

How long did it take you to do the hole job?

[@PhillipBailey]

Around 12 hours

[@jim2611]

@@PhillipBailey Hi Phillip, was that because you have trouble with dismantling? broken bolts etc? Or because you took your time as you were making an instructional video too?

[@PhillipBailey]

@jim2611 it's a labor intensive job. I did have some corroded fasteners. It was also my first one.

[@jpnm81]

is that the same engine as the 07 yaris??

[@PhillipBailey]

I'm sorry but I don't know for sure

[@SWATT101]

I think I'm in trouble...the chain will jump with the tensioner out and rotating the crank...right?

[@PhillipBailey]

Most likely it will

[@SWATT101]

​@@PhillipBailey yeah...at TDC with the marks, I noticed the exhaust seemed 1 tooth out. ( I had moved the chain with tensioner out, trying to get the orange marks to line up, not knowing they were for initial build only daaah)...so I figured just the exhaust might of jumped. I put it back together moving the exhaust to 22 teeth (the intake vvt seemed to land between the proper space)and is now throwing P0017, P0015...ran great when I started it up...then the codes came up with the motor surging as the ECU checked learned data. I cannot figure this out by myself without a shop scope tool to corelate the 2 cam positions vs crank sensor...or it could be the aftermarket exhaust vvt...or I can take the timing cover off...a little knowledge is dangerous...the start up rattling is gone though...lol

[@PhillipBailey]

​@sheldonwatt7682 I'd recommend to remove the cam cover and double check the timing marks. This was not a fun job for sure

[@SWATT101]

​@@PhillipBailey yeah...trying to wrap head around this one...your vid will help for sure

[@SWATT101]

So how hard can this be?? We know it's at TDC...we know where the timing gear marks should line up...seems that the chain from intake down to crank sprocket should be tight...

[@rafaelalamillo4766]

U always put a new tensioner going that deep fool

[@user-bo8yq3vy5k]

You are kinda wrong, the other one has the mark in the back, if you see this video look for all 3 marks, don’t ruin your engine 👍

[@lancenichols-mm1fc]

Please stop