2010 4Runner Liftgate button replacement - 5th Gen

I did this video solo so it is lacking in quality but the information should help if you find yourself needing to do this replacement.
A couple of corrections:
1) There are 4 screws holing the chrome trim piece in place as well as 2 plastic anchors and a third is located directly behind the Toyota Logo which proved to be the hardest to get out.
2) I said the Phillip's screws holding the button in place had nuts attached to them. This is not correct They screw through the holes into plastic anchors.

[@skent]

I did this repair today on my 2010 4Runner SR5 and used this video as a guide - thanks Gene J. It was helpful but I'd add the folllowing: 1. If you own an SR5 like mine, the lock cylinder is in the same place as the up/down window buttons (arrows) on the Limited. The back side of the lock assembly has two 10mm nuts that must be removed to fully remove the chrome trim assembly. This is in addition to the 4 nuts and 3 plastic anchors already mentioned in the comments. 2. Do not underestimate the level of nasty that is the black adhesive used on the vapor barrier. It can and will stick to anything it touches. Once you peel the vapor barrier down towards the bottom of the lift gate, I'd recommend temporarily securing it with a piece of tape to keep it out of your way. 3. Replacing only the rubber cap on the button (I did this and think I bought the replacement on Amazon) is an option, but knowing what I know after doing this repair I'd opt to pay $30 for the OEM switch assembly. In cleaning the melted rubber button off the OEM switch, I went through 3 pairs of latex exam gloves, 2 rags, and a decent amount of paint thinner. The rubber residue is as nasty as the vapor barrier adhesive and gets everywhere even if you are careful. I would have GLADLY saved myself that effort for another $20 in parts cost! 4. If you accidentally close the liftgate after disconnecting the 3 harness plugs, the only way to get it open again is to reconnect all 3. Like the OP said, don't as me how I know. :-D

[@bobscruggs8886]

I have a 2010 4 Runner the back liftgate handle melted damn I can't believe it melted thanks for your video

[@PCB-Designer]

Thanks for sharing this. I need to remove my gate panel and chrome name plate piece because my 2013 is rusting badly underneath that area. Now I know how to remove the panel.

[@MrUSMCEngineer]

Thanks for the tutorial man. Did just like you, the only thing is that I didn’t buy the whole assembly but just the rubber cover. Had to scrape the gunk around the area and give it a solid clean with a rag soaked in gasoline prior to installing the new cover. You were correct; trying to undo the screws with a 90degree is a waste of time and one risks stripping the heads. Again, thanks for the tutorial.

[@justinvaughnatx]

Gene, I'll pile on with thanks for posting this. You saved me a bunch of time - next time you're in austin, I'll buy you a beer.

[@PXstella]

Thanks, I was looking for a actual video before I dive into my 5th gen

[@dietmtndewbaby]

Thanks so much, this is exactly what I needed!

[@lord.needham]

Thank you sir! That was very helpful.

[@HiddenVagenda]

Thanks a lot - very helpful.

[@bimbolaolagbemi348]

Great video! I just used this as a guide to remove the latch on my 5th Gen Limited T4R so I could replace the rubber (I only replaced the rubber not the entire latch). However, a small point to note (and I might be nit-picking here) is that contrary to what was said at 0:42 that you can't just take off the two screws holding the latch and replace the rubber because of the 'nut' that would fall off inside the lift gate, there is no nut behind those screws (you can actually see this by looking at the latch at 3:57). BUT... there is still a very very good reason to make the replacement as was done in this video and that is, there simply isn't enough free cable on the latch to allow you pull it out and work on it even if you got those two terrible screws out (I couldn't and I really tried!!!). Doing it by removing the tail gate lining allows more room to work aaaaaaand, you get to clean up the emblem ornament really good before reinstalling. Really great video!!!

[@jamesonwoodworks]

Thanks for your reply. Regarding my error at the 0:42 mark, this is acknowledged and corrected in the video description above. I realized my error when I made the video but just addressed it in the description rather than spending the time to voice-over or reshoot.

[@bimbolaolagbemi348]

@@jamesonwoodworks would you look at that! I somehow, in my excitement at finding the video, didn't read through your comments. My bad... It's still a great video still!

[@jamesonwoodworks]

@@bimbolaolagbemi348 No problem. I hardly ever read the descriptions. :)

[@jasonkoslow4174]

Do you have the part number for just the rubber?

[@bimbolaolagbemi348]

@@jasonkoslow4174 @@jasonkoslow4174 I didn't get a part number. I just ordered this part on AliExpress based on the description (it was cheap enough to be worth the gamble) and it fit perfectly... Still working fine till date! I hope this helps. a.aliexpress.com/_mtZpvLv

[@joebugel3384]

Thanks brotha, this is exactly what I was looking for!

[@toolman67]

Does anyone know the part number, price of the garnish handle plastic that you removed? Mine is in white, but has a bad scratch down it, so would like to install a new white one or chrome.

[@oldz70]

That box is the hatch bcm, body control module.

[@acme54321]

Good write-up to remove the tailgate trim, but these steps are completely unnecessary to replace the rubber cover. The entire job can be done from the outside and you will spend 5 times as much time cleaning the gunk off than the actual removal. All you need to do is remove the two screws using a 90 degree screwdriver or a short phillips bit in a 1/4 gear wrench. Then use a flathead to pop the button assembly out of the door. There are no nuts that will fall off on the inside. The button is held in place by two plastic studs that expand when the screws are installed. The rubber cover is available for $10 online, you don't need the whole assembly.

[@Superkamikazee]

Thanks. This is the correct method.

[@bjays987]

Perfect video, no bs. Thanks a bunch!

[@michaelc.6306]

I have a license plate bolt broke off of the passenger side ..... I have my plate tightened up on the driver side bolt & it holds the plate level....but its ALWAYS SOMETHING. One time I thought my rear window defroster Failed.... Come to find out....if the Rear Window is down ever so Slightly.....the Rear Defroster will not Power On. I tapped the button...it maybe had a little ICE INSIDE.. keeping the window down. THEN, the Defroster Turned on. I read in the Owners Manual....this is true.....After I took the Dash apart Thinking the Switch had Failed. 🤪

[@Ace-ki1mc]

Anyone have the part number for the Toyota part?

[@jamesonwoodworks]

It’s visible on the new part bag in the video

[@issyzonesmart3164]

Hi, buddy ! We have a Hatch Liftgate Switch Cover for Toyota Prius Sienna Scion and we want you to take an installation video for us.The new product will be a gift for you.If you are interested, please give us reply, Thank you.

[@carterjon100]

Very helpful & 2 the point. Thanks