2010 Nissan Cube not starting fix for ESCL

This is a pretty simple fix. It takes a little bit of work to get things open up but the actual problem is not too difficult to take care of. This could be a semi-permanent or permanent solution we are not sure yet. All we know is the car starts 100% of the time right now.

[@tamikamartin8250]

Omg it actually worked! My cube sat for over a year, came across this video and you saved my cube. THANK YOU!!! You are a life saver

[@johnhancock4303]

Thank you funny lady. My Cube is fixed thanks to you. After repairing, the dash lit up, but wouldn't start. I noticed the horn was soft when locking with remote and wipers were kinda sluggish and only rear windows would go down, not front. How weird, so I charged battery for a few hours and BINGO! Fired right up. I think my battery was weak because I had flashers on for about 1.5 hrs before I got my tow. I did have to remove instrument cluster to get a screwdriver to fit in there to unscrew the security screws that I had to cut slots into. Remove plastic dash bezel around cluster first. Pops right out. Two screws hold cluster at bottom and pops straight out. Two clips attach cluster in center. I used 2 small zip ties instead of duct tape. I also used air compressor to remove any metal shavings from housing and circuit board. Thank you so much. I am sooooo... happy! Cost me $0.

[@yoonchoi6863]

I got to say. your fix works. I have 2009 Cube. I left my car at walmart. couldn't start but key fob works fine. but finally i took it apart and did what you did. now it is starting.GREAT!! THank you thank youuuuuuuuuuusooooooooooooooo MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I love YOUUUUUUU. you save me $1200 parts alone. Canada cost after the taxes $1400.00. I have saved lots of money because of youuuuuuuuuuuu. Thank YOu again

[@raycherry21]

How long did it take u? Had mine happen today b4 work. Gonna do the same as the video tonight with my 09

[@myrrhholloway8158]

@@raycherry21 I apologize for this late reply. No notifications when people comment. My guess is you already did this :-) But just in case.... all together it probably took a couple of hours. Most of it was the teardown and putting back together. The fix was fast!

[@cheekysausage7764]

God bless you for this video, it's saved me a fortune. One tip to anyone giving it a go, you need to turn the steering wheel to expose the two screws that hold the steering wheel surrounds, then they just clip off. You'll need to invest in some good drill bits to get the steering lock housing off and open. Thanks again.

[@sheldonnewton9435]

Appreciate it. I was able to fix my car today. Only cost me about $77 because I had to buy a dremel to remove the 2 annoying screws to lose the module itself. (Sunday March 26,2023)

[@myrrhholloway8158]

So glad to hear that!! Sorry about the $77... but, Hey! Now you have a Dremel. 😀

[@benoitbeaumont1828]

I'm here to thank you for this video. This morning my car wouldn't start. No joke about 3 hours later with the help of your video my car is back on track. Thanks!!!

[@bigcee51shell96]

Thank you so much the video I just bought a 2009 Nissan Cube had it towed to my house a week ago, I was scratching my head until I saw your video it works very well now. Cost me 20$ for material to cut the box open.

[@FutureTrunks801]

Thank You very much!!! Our car just went out because of the steering lock and your video was the first one to pop up. We tried out what you suggested and our car worked! Thank you again!

[@myrrhholloway8158]

I have to say... it amazes me every time it works for someone! So glad the video made sense to you. I just rewatched it. It's a little cringeworthy. lol

[@petekovacevic3241]

I have the same problem, you inspired me going to try it today

[@user-zw3gv5dy4m]

Just did this for the wife's car. You're a life saver 👌

[@Mr1lomazda]

Thank you so much for video. Just did this today and started right up. Your a life saver

[@tommyw.8389]

I appreciate this video soooo much ! Thank you 🙏

[@ddw764]

LOL You're my kind of DIY'er! Thanks so much!

[@jeffreyerwin3665]

had this issue with my 2010 yesterday. Lucky for me I was at home and had Cube #2 in the garage.

[@DBChoppaNZ]

Just wanted to say thanks for posting this hack it's worked perfectly on my 09 Cube and saved me hundreds of dollars

[@myrrhholloway8158]

I'm so happy to hear that!! Wasn't even terribly hard either, was it!

[@cameronmccollough98]

Thanks so much for this video. You just gave me the confidence to buy one the won't start. I bet this is the issue.

[@myrrhholloway8158]

Lol! I sure hope it is the fix for you tou!!

[@jeffmaduro9254]

Thank you. Youve save me allot of money🎉🎉

[@myrrhholloway8158]

I love hearing that!! Thanks for telling me!

[@josiahculley9877]

I have the same car, It is awesome no problems at all 140 000 miles runs like new. I flush all the fluids, change all filters, changed all spark plugs and spark plug wires. Ceramic brake pads. Go to a great mechanic and have them do a 3 step fuel fuel injection cleaning service. Make sure they use BG products. It gets rid of all carbon build up The car roars now. Also use royal purple engine oil it is better then mobil 1 one oil. It drives like a race car now!!!! Also use Trico Titan wipers they work the best. ALso buy the royal purple oil filter and change serpentine belt every 80 000 miles to be safe.

[@Toxic__Guy]

Very helpful

[@frankw5648]

It worked. It didn’t work at first but I turned the wheel back and forth for a few seconds and the ignition beep turned on. I pushed the start and it came on.

[@Thelonerangersmate]

Thanks for this you saved me about £900

[@myrrhholloway8158]

That makes me so happy to hear!!!

[@jordanpene5279]

Thanks, gonna try this on my gf's cube :)

[@lisabug75]

I am about to attempt this 😮

[@myrrhholloway8158]

Hoping it works for you! Why dont they make a NONPLASTIC part?

[@kellydavies9291]

Thank you so much for taking the time to post this - despite the "embarrassment" ; ) Do you happen to recall what the cube was doing when it was ailing? Like when you pushed the button what happened? Mine just quit on me last night and some are saying that the ESCL isn't the issue but nobody knows what the ESCL symptom/behaviour is.

[@myrrhholloway8158]

I'm so sorry. I just saw this! I do not remember what it was doing at the time. I was just desperate to save my daughter a ton of money

[@andrewsearcy8078]

your the best!😮

[@myrrhholloway8158]

Gosh thanks! I hope that means your car starts now!

[@cmjon6380]

Greatest car this far was my 2010 Nissan Cube, but that feature went out every 3 years and cost $700 to fix each time.

[@minicmotorways]

Great video - interesting to see how these fail as you mentioned the little motor still ran ? - i assume it spins the cog which in turn pulls out the locking bit away from the steering column & in doing so presses in those 2 buttons/micro switches ?................ if so, i wonder where in that sequence something fails

[@myrrhholloway8158]

From what I understand, a little plastic piece breaks.... crazy!

[@aarongoldstein894]

Is the pins that were drilled out clevis pins you can normally just pull them out. Doing this will only override the system temporarily tell Pat's security system realizes what's going on You will then have to get your vehicle out of safe mode which is not easy. I would highly recommend reshottering the 2 relays only $37 for parts. The bolts however for the box mount on steering wheel are m1.25 13mm bolt

[@myrrhholloway8158]

Thanks Aaron. You talked way over my head, lol! I am sure that will definitely help other people!

[@muhammedmansoor1722]

Good

[@columbia1991]

Ugh, just happened to us today! I did some research and I see a recall campaign, ID # P1225. The bulletin is dated June 23, 2011. Also just curious does your Key light stay on now?

[@myrrhholloway8158]

It is so frustrating, I know! Her car was too old for the recall, so I just dove right in. I do believe her key light stays on all the time now.

[@mopac001]

What would help me is information on how you got the plastic trim around the steering column off to expose the top of the lock device and the 2 screws you had to dremel slits into.

[@shadetreemechanic01]

Twist the steering wheel right & left & you will expose two Phillip's head screws that must be removed. Then lower the tilt wheel (if present) as low & out front as you can. Now you can wiggle and pull the upper & lower steering wheel shrouds until they come out, which will expose the parts you need to get to. Careful but persuasive force & pressure will get the job done w/o damage. Actually, before you do the above, you have to remove the lower dash shrouding. To do this, I first removed the two 10mm bolts under the hood & gas release handles and I also removed an additional Phillip's head screw that was then exposed in the same area. The rest of shroud is held on with push-in clips & the whole assembly pops out w/o damage if you are careful. The fuse panel behind the dash (right beside the driver's door) just pops out too in case that is necessary - I can't recall. The electrical connections such as to the OBD2 and the mirror adjuster must now be released (look for their small release tabs). Also, if you have the optional under-dash colored LED package, there are two more screws and some adhesive tape that must be removed. Once the lower dash shrouding is removed, there is then a metal shield exposed that must be removed (four 10mm bolts). Now you can work on the steering-wheel shrouding as discussed in the first paragraph.

[@AllenGraetz]

Thanks. DO we need to do anything to disconect the airbag or anything?

[@myrrhholloway8158]

@@AllenGraetz we did not ;-) no problems with it yet! By the way about 6 or so months later.... still starts!

[@PT-ie2xj]

@@AllenGraetz No. You do have to drop the driver's side underdash shrouding first though. I assume you knew that.

[@PT-ie2xj]

The key light does stay on after this fix but I didn't have any other problems. I thought that perhaps pulling the 10A ESCL F4 fuse in the Power Distribution Module (PDM) would solve that problem but that didn't work. I may work on that issue later. One commenter indicated that after the fix, their car wouldn't "go fast". While they may have been joking, just to make sure I took the car to the freeway and easily got to 80 mph no problem. No "check engine" light either, so I think my ECU is happy and my car is OK. At this point, the car has accumulated another 200 miles of all types of driving and it has reliably started every time. If your car has problems after this fix, the first question I would ask would be Is your "check engine" light on? If so, you may have an additional unrelated problem that is triggering the ECU into "open-loop"/"limp-mode"/"safe-mode". For those with a CVT, if the transmission gets too hot, the car will limit your speed until the transmission temps get back to safe levels. This is known to happen in desert-country when traveling at "past-legal" speeds for extended periods. If you plan to do that, I'd think about adding an additional transmission cooler. Regarding this KZbin ESCL "fix", there is a delay between when you first connect the ESCL and when the car will first start. If necessary, go through the cycle of connecting the ESCL box and trying to start several times. Once the car starts once, it seems to continue to work w/o problems. Another tip: Make sure when you tape the two micro-switches down, you don't cover the ground pads on the back-side of the circuit board (under the screws that hold the circuit board down). While I don't know that these grounding connections from the board to the aluminum box are absolutely necessary, I would not modify the engineered design by insulating the grounding pads with tape. What I do know is CRITICAL is that you don't screw down the board if it isn't already sitting absolutely flat to the aluminum mounting surface. Too much tape or tape on a "grounding pad" could easily make this happen. Damage that board by flexing it under screw tension and it's "game over" until you get another ESCL box. I used clear self-fusing silicone tape to do the job. It won't decompose with age or in the heat. I first put a small piece of "extra" tape just over the switches themselves as protection to prevent the switches from someday penetrating through (and thus not being held sufficiently down). I felt I needed extra tape there, but (once again) it is absolutely CRITICAL that you do not make too many wraps of tape around the circuit board itself, else you will not be able to safely reinstall and screw down the board in the aluminum box without damage to the board and/or the risk of bad ground-pad connections. To prevent damage to the circuit board, I didn't stretch the self-fusing tape as tight as I usually do. Instead, after installing, I pinched the tape with needle-nose pliers to "fuse" it together, and I added 3 tiny zip ties perpendicular to the tape wrap so as to prevent the tape from ever coming apart. I put one of these zip ties through the holes in the side of the switches, but I added two more, one as close to each top edge of the circuit board as I could get. If the tape ever comes apart or the switches break through the tape, it will leave you stranded. I know my tape is not going to come apart. After installing the tape, I carefully cut the tape enough to expose the grounding pad at the screw on the underside of the board. Instead of using zip ties to reassemble the box, I carefully drilled out the four rivets just enough to get the box apart, and then later used tiny carefully-chosen sheet-metal screws and lock washers to retap the holes and hold the box together. This is especially important if you leave the motor and gear assembly in place as there are significant forces when the ESCL is in motion and this tries to tear the box apart. In that case, I'd probably also use "Locktight" on the threads. The screws also make the repair look much more professional than tape and zip-ties do. BTW, an issue that can somewhat mimic or compound the ESCL problem is an intermittently bad brake light switch or transmission neutral switch, as the car is designed not to start unless the ECU can see that the brake pedal is depressed and the car is in neutral or park. If the brake lights don't always light, you probably have this problem, though just the fact that the brake lights work doesn't mean that the switch is failing to tell the ECU that the brake pedal is depressed. I had that problem with a 2008 Hyundai Elantra. Although there was only one "brake light switch" there were two separate circuits within it, one that goes to the lights themselves and one that goes to the ECU. Regarding the neutral switch, there is a small hole for a paperclip near the shifter that will allow you to take the transmission out of "park" before you try to start. Try putting the transmission lever to neutral instead and to see if the car will start. On some cars, this trick and perhaps a little bit of wiggling the shift lever around while you try to start will get you going until you can replace the neutral switch. Here is some excellent additional info, though some of it doesn't completely apply to our Cubes: www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/63260-links-posts-about-steering-wheel-lock.html www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/55425-diy-2009-2010-steering-wheel-lock-fix-w-pics.html (Caution- I do not know if cutting the brown or the pink wire works. If you choose to do it, make sure the steering wheel is fully unlocked when you cut it. I chose not to make the repair that way as I do not like hacking into a car's wiring harness unless it is absolutely necessary. One of the links above will take you to a pre-modified wiring harness that does this for you but it costs $50 and there is no guarantee it will work on the Cube.)

[@myrrhholloway8158]

YIKES! Your brain works way better than mine regarding mechanic things. Thanks for adding your comments. I am sure they will a lot of people!

[@derykuhsworld8495]

Can this work on a 2011 Nissan Cube

[@nickdominguez2432]

Is this a possible solution for non keyless entry cubes? I think mine has the same issue but everyone has a keyless ignition and I don’t.

[@myrrhholloway8158]

I dont know. My mechanical abilities are only "learn as the problem comes up!" :-)

[@SoulKingXBGP]

I tried this and it worked but my steering is hard now any ideas ?

[@rdreji8658]

Good job

[@myrrhholloway8158]

Thanks

[@ramonayala9874]

How do you remove the cover

[@lisabug75]

What do we have to take off to get to the box? Like the plastic around the steering wheel??

[@myrrhholloway8158]

I removed the hard plastic case behind it. I think that's what you asked :-)

[@vivotopsis]

4:35 shows the buttons

[@highstreet2916]

When the car won’t start, the car switch to on?

[@mikhaelmendoza11]

How did you remove the cover behind the steering wheel? I'm having the same issue.

[@myrrhholloway8158]

YIKES! I honestly DON'T remember! My daughter is coming over today and I will look to see if I remember!

[@opalgrace6968]

Hi Mary, I'm having the same problem.I noticed that the key light on her car is still on. Is that ok?

[@myrrhholloway8158]

My daughter's light is still on. I apologize for the later reply. I don't come to the video often. Frankly all the replies took me by surprise! :)

[@HelenWorthley2121]

My engine light is stuck on,I've no idea what chip it needs? ☹

[@vampireteddygram720]

We did this and it worked fine, and was able to drive it for a couple of days. The only problem is that now my car isn't even recognizing my key fob anymore. So I cannot even attempt to start the car or anything. We just replaced the battery in the key fob as well. The ESCL controls the car being able to sense your key fob right? Not sure what I can do now.

[@myrrhholloway8158]

I do not know!! It has been a year since you posted, and I truly hope you found the fix.

[@vampireteddygram720]

@@myrrhholloway8158 Lol, the fix was getting a new starter.

[@AllenGraetz]

Nissan, yes Nissan, sells a OEM part that replaces this for @$70. GOing to give it a try. Will try to remember to let y'll know if it works.

[@myrrhholloway8158]

Thatt would be great! Thank you!

[@halyeberry6740]

Allen G did it work?

[@southernbellebritt]

Did it work???? If so what’s the part number

[@PT-ie2xj]

Did it work? This is avail for some other models but I can't find it for the Cube. Need part number! Thanks.

[@topazioazulazul]

@Allen G did it work?

[@jeromeharrison7450]

is this for key start cubes also or just push start

[@myrrhholloway8158]

Push start. I'm not sure about key start!

[@beatzzz01]

Hi there, before you've fixed your issue and attempted to start car, was there no crank sound at all? Or could you hear the car starter try to initiate but could not roll over? I may have this same problem, my car has been broken down for 2 weeks. There is no issue when the mechanic jumps the starter directly it starts without any delay. However, the push start button inside car doesnt roll over but half cranks. Please help

[@curtisbarnettsr.8168]

The 2009 Nissan Cube has a recall on this. I took it to the dealer and was fixed for free

[@az-tu4mb]

@@curtisbarnettsr.8168 do you know what this part is called for the recall?

[@nicholasschminkey4527]

How long did the fix work?

[@myrrhholloway8158]

It is still working!! If the girl remembers to put oil in the car, it will keep going!

[@stevegarlock4269]

I've completed this, car starts drives fine but it likes to drain the battery over time. Im guessing the illuminated key symbol means some circuit is activated...

[@myrrhholloway8158]

I think my daughter's key light is on all the time. I hope you finally got the battery drain fixed.

[@felipecastillo4683]

What did he use to make the 4 holes

[@shadetreemechanic01]

Just drill them out about 1/4" deep with tiny but increasing size drill bits until the top & bottom of the unit become loose of each other. Don't go much deeper than this and keep your drill bit perpendicular to the work so it doesn't wander into the electronics. I think it is best to drill with the unit upside down so that any shavings that fall into the box stay out of the electronics and mechanics. After you get the case open, you can then clean out the box of shavings with Q-tips and alcohol, but avoid leaving lint (especially important if you leave in the mechanicals like I ultimately did).

[@myrrhholloway8158]

Careful use of a drill... put it in a big vise to hold it.

[@eekimus]

Anyone figure out how to get rid of the yellow key logo in the dash once the car is started and driving?

[@johnhancock4303]

You can't, but it's a small price to pay for a no cost repair.

[@reconnindewoods9197]

di the car just not turn over, or start and die?

[@myrrhholloway8158]

It would turn over at all

[@estrellah4857]

My car doesn't want start at all is Nissan cube 2009

[@atlasxxiii]

Getto hook-up. Now someone can hotwire your cube in 10 seconds

[@myrrhholloway8158]

Well....they probably could. But they haven't yet :)

[@raycherry21]

The car starts but the security light is still on and they car won’t go fast.

[@AllenGraetz]

Could be a lot of things. ONe possibility is that the car is in safe mode.

[@myrrhholloway8158]

@@AllenGraetz ohmigoodness! I didnt even know was a safe mode!

[@PT-ie2xj]

The key light does stay on after this fix but I didn't have any other problems. I thought that perhaps pulling the 10A ESCL F4 fuse in the Power Distribution Module (PDM) would solve that problem but that didn't work. I may work on that issue later. One commenter indicated that after the fix, their car wouldn't "go fast". While they may have been joking, just to make sure I took the car to the freeway and easily got to 80 mph no problem. No "check engine" light either, so I think my ECU is happy and my car is OK. At this point, the car has accumulated another 200 miles of all types of driving and it has reliably started every time. If your car has problems after this fix, the first question I would ask would be Is your "check engine" light on? If so, you may have an additional unrelated problem that is triggering the ECU into "open-loop"/"limp-mode"/"safe-mode". For those with a CVT, if the transmission gets too hot, the car will limit your speed until the transmission temps get back to safe levels. This is known to happen in desert-country when traveling at "past-legal" speeds for extended periods. If you plan to do that, I'd think about adding an additional transmission cooler. Regarding this KZbin ESCL "fix", there is a delay between when you first connect the ESCL and when the car will first start. If necessary, go through the cycle of connecting the ESCL box and trying to start several times. Once the car starts once, it seems to continue to work w/o problems. Another tip: Make sure when you tape the two micro-switches down, you don't cover the ground pads on the back-side of the circuit board (under the screws that hold the circuit board down). While I don't know that these grounding connections from the board to the aluminum box are absolutely necessary, I would not modify the engineered design by insulating the grounding pads with tape. What I do know is CRITICAL is that you don't screw down the board if it isn't already sitting absolutely flat to the aluminum mounting surface. Too much tape or tape on a "grounding pad" could easily make this happen. Damage that board by flexing it under screw tension and it's "game over" until you get another ESCL box. I used clear self-fusing silicone tape to do the job. It won't decompose with age or in the heat. I first put a small piece of "extra" tape just over the switches themselves as protection to prevent the switches from someday penetrating through (and thus not being held sufficiently down). I felt I needed extra tape there, but (once again) it is absolutely CRITICAL that you do not make too many wraps of tape around the circuit board itself, else you will not be able to safely reinstall and screw down the board in the aluminum box without damage to the board and/or the risk of bad ground-pad connections. To prevent damage to the circuit board, I didn't stretch the self-fusing tape as tight as I usually do. Instead, after installing, I pinched the tape with needle-nose pliers to "fuse" it together, and I added 3 tiny zip ties perpendicular to the tape wrap so as to prevent the tape from ever coming apart. I put one of these zip ties through the holes in the side of the switches, but I added two more, one as close to each top edge of the circuit board as I could get. If the tape ever comes apart or the switches break through the tape, it will leave you stranded. I know my tape is not going to come apart. After installing the tape, I carefully cut the tape enough to expose the grounding pad at the screw on the underside of the board. Instead of using zip ties to reassemble the box, I carefully drilled out the four rivets just enough to get the box apart, and then later used tiny carefully-chosen sheet-metal screws and lock washers to retap the holes and hold the box together. This is especially important if you leave the motor and gear assembly in place as there are significant forces when the ESCL is in motion and this tries to tear the box apart. In that case, I'd probably also use "Locktight" on the threads. The screws also make the repair look much more professional than tape and zip-ties do. BTW, an issue that can somewhat mimic or compound the ESCL problem is an intermittently bad brake light switch or transmission neutral switch, as the car is designed not to start unless the ECU can see that the brake pedal is depressed and the car is in neutral or park. If the brake lights don't always light, you probably have this problem, though just the fact that the brake lights work doesn't mean that the switch is failing to tell the ECU that the brake pedal is depressed. I had that problem with a 2008 Hyundai Elantra. Although there was only one "brake light switch" there were two separate circuits within it, one that goes to the lights themselves and one that goes to the ECU. Regarding the neutral switch, there is a small hole for a paperclip near the shifter that will allow you to take the transmission out of "park" before you try to start. Try putting the transmission lever to neutral instead and to see if the car will start. On some cars, this trick and perhaps a little bit of wiggling the shift lever around while you try to start will get you going until you can replace the neutral switch. Here is some excellent additional info, though some of it doesn't completely apply to our Cubes: www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/63260-links-posts-about-steering-wheel-lock.html www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/55425-diy-2009-2010-steering-wheel-lock-fix-w-pics.html (Caution- I do not know if cutting the brown or the pink wire works. If you choose to do it, make sure the steering wheel is fully unlocked when you cut it. I chose not to make the repair that way as I do not like hacking into a car's wiring harness unless it is absolutely necessary. One of the links above will take you to a pre-modified wiring harness that does this for you but it costs $50 and there is no guarantee it will work on the Cube.)

[@yvandastous4147]

How to fix a failed Steering Lock Unit (SLU) I sorted through a number of comments (kzbin.info/www/bejne/poibo55jq7SJiKs, kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZnfSe6tvpaybarc) and put together a simple procedure that worked for me. Here it is: Quick fix to get back home: (note that the light stays on once done and that the vehicle needs to be in a locked state when performing these steps). Once the SLU has been opened and the steering lock circuit board is free from the casing, plug it back in to the wiring harness, lock the doors and then follow the below steps: 1. With FOB, unlock the doors (note: steering lock is engaged when the doors lock or when anti-theft is armed). 2. Press the start button to go into accessory mode (don't press the brake yet). The motor on the steering lock circuit board will turn with the expectation that it unlocks. While the motor is running press the two turquoise switches and hold. The motor should stop turning. 3. While still holding switches down, depress brake pedal and start the car. 4. While still holding switches down, turn car off. Do not lock doors. 5. While still holding switches down, disconnect steering lock circuit board from the wiring harness. 6. Leave the steering lock motor on the circuit board (some unit may not work without it) but remove the gear and plunger (not attached to the circuit board). 7. Unsolder the two turquoise switches from the circuit board. 8. Solder jumper wires between the center contact of each switch and their innermost contact (the one furthest away from the edge of the circuit board). Note: For a quick fix, steps 7 and 8 can be replaced with the following: using a small piece of metal and tape (or tie-wrap), permanently hold both switches down by placing the piece of metal on top of the button switches and holding it in the down position with tape (or tie-wrap). 9. Re-connect steering lock circuit board to wiring harness. 10. Start vehicle and if it works then problem is fixed. If not, try removing ESLC fuse for a minute then replacing if the car won't immediately start or if you did modification without the car running. It may take a minute or two for the computer to recognize the Module, open and close the door a few times, once it senses it, starts up every time afterwards.

[@SylasG]

@Yvan D’Astous has anyone found a fix that turns off the key light on the instrument cluster as well?

[@myrrhholloway8158]

That sounds like a great fix!

[@taipan8021]

Tried this, unfortunately my issue goes deeper it'seems

[@myrrhholloway8158]

That's a bummer :( I'm so sorry!