2010 toyota corrola driver side cv axle replacement

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[@eugeniosanchez9600]

I do the 3 bolts on the lower control arm ball joints, no need to disconnect the strut bolts or wires

[@jchock7503]

From my personal experience doing any maintenance work on a car, it is not wise and not good to hurry on the job. You should take the time to put a container below the transmission joint before you start pulling out the CV axle. That way you are not stressed to quickly install the new CV axle due to worrying about the transmission oil coming out. Accidents tend to happen when we are rushing through a job and the process of rushing is truly of the devil.

[@spider7926]

💯

[@armchairtin-kicker503]

I viewed a number of these CV axle and seal replacement jobs, the mechanics inducing drama into the experience for no good reason. I always drain the transmission fluid into a clean pan first. Following that, I replace the drain plug with a new crush washer. Then I transfer the transmission fluid to a plastic container with a lid. After the transmission work is complete, I reintroduce the fluid back into the system using a funnel-shape paint filter. Finally, I start the vehicle and go through the gears five times, stopping at each gear for 2-seconds. My workspace remains spotless. Having the transmission drained during repairs, enables me to install seals into transmission housings oil free.

[@Test-nr3cd]

When you reassembled the brake assembly you but the two bolts face towards the front of the car. They're supposed to be facing the rear of the vehicle in case the unlikely event the nuts fall off while driving you won't be in any danger of the bolts falling off as well. They were facing the rear way when you disassembled. Great video bro. Keep up the good work.

[@evanchan6644]

problem 1) never hit the axle shaft with a hammer to damaged the thread in case anything happen or seize up, wrong parts and your car stay off the ground. it can be done by taking off 3 bolts at the lower ball joint and toyota normally don't have to do alignment after. ABS sensor. can be taking off the 10mm bolt that bolt on the frame and it give you enough length to do this job BUT BE CATION of the wire length on abs sensor when pulling the strut with hub assembly away and must done by steer all the way to the left or right depending which side you are replacing of the axle.

[@joechandlerjr2246]

Ugh! Why remove anything that can upset alignment? Loosen & remove ONLY: axle nut, two nuts & bolt holding lower "A" arm, & tie rod end, move strut aside, pry out old axle, pop in new; then put back together, with correct torque on 5 points! Done!

[@tanumie2657]

Hi, thank you for sharing your knowledge for free. God bless you!!! My question is that I did replace the passemher side cv axale joint about 5 times and still did not success to fix it definitely. It last a couple months then either the cv axale breaks or it leaks oil from transmission. I did change the seals at each replacement. The big issue, why there is a gap of about a 1/4" to the transmission and this same for all the cv axale joints. I bought them from Oreilly auto parts with life time warranty. I precise the seals were replaced correctly and the length of the axales matches all. The driver side which I bought from Autozone still working good but not the passenger side from Oreilly. I am unable to figure out what's exactly wrong. In my opinion is the parts failure. Thank you!

[@FDNY8231]

Will a bad cv joint cause a clunking when shifting between gears? IE: the lug studs knock against the Roter making the noise when shifting (forward to reverse gear) or pulling out say from a stop sign.

[@crypticzen9194]

About to jack mine up and see if this is the problem. Some kind of intermittent clunk while turning left.

[@john8147]

Thats your lower ball joints they will make that noise when its nearing their time

[@crypticzen9194]

@@john8147 yeah I’m just not sure. Checked for play. Everything thing is solid. Looked like the boot was torn on the driver side half shaft. Ordered new axles but haven’t replaced yet. It’s so intermittent that I’m not in a hurry.

[@ammanashraf1327]

Good job thank you

[@geovannimurillorodriguez4186]

Forgot to said refill transmission fluid. Bud

[@millerslawncare8643]

how is the new icon tool box and tools are doing

[@JaboTheMechanic]

They're awesome.

[@josegalindo1262]

Isn't it better to pull it out with a dent puller? Stupid question right? Why not use a real cv axle puller

[@melissazimmerman8026]

Isn't there some sort of axle seal you are suppose to replace before you put the new axle in???

[@Pinkcreeper777]

I'm pretty sure if you had no leaking then no, unless you want to replace just to replace it you can

[@donaldgould7577]

How do you replace the fluid you lost

[@Bddraughn92]

Its just Trans fluid.

[@jsal7241]

I can't seem to get the axle out of the tranny any tips anyone?

[@CTAjunior]

Use vice grips and a 3 ft bolt then yank on the bolt. Or tie a long chain to the base of the axle and yank on it

[@timhiller1029]

I used a indexing pry bar which is adjustable popped it right out was done in under 30 minutes 💪

[@armchairtin-kicker503]

It depends on whether it is the driver-side or passenger-side CV axle. If it is the driver-side, one has to contend with the circlip. Have an assistant rotate the passenger-side wheel 30-degrees at a time on command. At each increment, pry against the tulip (aka tripod housing). It should take no longer than three-minutes of this procedure for the circlip to come into alignment, the axle popping out of the transmission upon prying. If it is the passenger-side, one has to contend with the infamous carrier bearing bracket, the bearing often rusted into the bracket. Have an assistant turn the driver-side wheel clockwise on command as you employ a Hackzall or Sawzall to through-cut the axle in two places: (1) flush with the back of the tulip and (2) a couple of inches inboard from the bracket. Use plenty of cutting fluid on your favorite thick-metal carbide tip blade, a blade 6-inches long. As, your assistant turns the wheel, you want to spiral in toward the center like the needle of a phonograph record. ***Warning: metal will come of the axle like searing glitter, so wear a welder's balaclava and long-sleeve shirt, especially safety goggles.

[@CTAjunior]

Hold on a minute, you didn’t inspect the axle seal and shouldn’t you drain and put new tranny fluid?

[@armchairtin-kicker503]

Not necessarily. One can reinstall the old transmission fluid by filtering it through a funnel-shaped paint filter. Just ensure the drain pan has been cleaned first.

[@josemadera7950]

You made your job harder lol just remove tie rod and lower ball joint bolts and you don’t have to remove strut bolts or sensors and wires. But good video other then that lol

[@joseluisbarrerarios5699]

You’ll definitely need an alignment if you mess with the tie rod I would rather not mess with it lol

[@torresweldingfiberglass8946]

Tour

[@vxbullies3572]

Do you need an alignment afterwards?

[@JaboTheMechanic]

Yes

[@eddiereyna1155]

Usually I remove the joint three bottom bolts that way no need for alignment

[@torresweldingfiberglass8946]

Tool box tur

[@JaboTheMechanic]

I will do a tour this week