2010 tundra crank no start solution

[@mateogamez32]

Thank you for your guidance and knowledge brother, saved me lots of money. I had the same issue with my 2010 tundra, it would crank and start but would die after 3 secs. After maybe like 6-8 times it would start and run normal. But then it would do the same thing again if I turned off. I thought it was the fuel control ecu because the pump was working everytime I turned the key. Couldn’t find the fuel ecu nowhere but Toyota and they wanted 600 bucks for it. Not only that, they didn’t even had it in stock and I had to wait a week. Played with the relays took the fuel ecu pump relay off and switched with the tow relay…….my tundra started right away and idle like new! After I let it idle for a while I troubleshooted again like 3 times just to make sure. I swap the relays back- forth and everytime i put the burn out relay the truck wouldn’t start anymore or it will start and die after 3 secs. That’s when I knew the issue was that burnt relay, kept the tow relay on fuel ecu pump location and put an aftermarket one on the tow relay location.

[@alltsab]

@mateogamez32 great job buddy

[@bblod4896]

Back when I worked at Datsun, the 280Z used an electric fuel pump for the fuel injection system. When the ignition was turned on, the fuel pump would pressurize the system. Then, when you crank the engine and it started, the computer looked for oil pressure, if there was no oil pressure, the computer would turn off the fuel pump. This was a safety device to keep the pump from running if there was a car crash and the engine shut down. Thanks for the video.

[@stephenzies8867]

Back InThe Day Cars And trucks Had Inertia Valves To Shut Off The Fuel Pump If You Got In An Accident Or Even Not That Hard A Bumper Bump. It Had A Reset Button It Was Under The Dash On The inside Of The Fire Wall.

[@knackfulknitter]

Fantastic troubleshooting! My son’s 2010 Tundra won’t start. Toyota cannot figure it out and another Toyota certified mechanic said the radio was draining the battery. Worked for a few days and then back to not starting. I believe it turns over. If I lived where he is, I’d check it out following your lead. I forwarded your video to my son.

[@alltsab]

Thank you

[@jorgep6444]

i had my truck towed last night for the same reason, after watching this video i just went and put gas in truck even though it showed it had a 1/4 tank and guess what?? problem solved!! Thanks a lot.

[@alltsab]

Nice

[@stephenzies8867]

I've Been A Mechanic 49 Years. i Worked For Volkswagen Audi Dealers For 33 Years. I Use To See this Problem Alot. First thing I Use To Do Is Bang On The Bottom Of The Gas Tank With Your Hand . You Can Hear By The Sound If it's Empty. Easier Back When The Tanks Were Steel But Still Works On Plastic Tanks

[@alltsab]

Thanks for your expertise

[@Roadking1965]

I had a "Hard crank" issue with my 2012 tundra flex fuel 5.7L. it would stumble on startup after sitting for around 8 hours or all night. I replaced the fuel pump with OEM pump 10k miles ago so not that. Checked everything but no luck so I bought a high end code reader from harbor freight. Checked all sensors and all looked good, no codes. I did an ECU reset and problem went away. Apparently it's the fuel quality calculation on startup.

[@alltsab]

@wchitwood65 thank for your information 🙏

[@Roadking1965]

And still doing great a month later, no issue.

[@Kaotik199O]

This helped me narrow my problem down, to my fuel pump or crankshaft sensor…. I will know soon which one of those two it is…. Thank you sir! I’ll will definitely be leaving a like on your video!!! God bless you for posting this video, my friend 🙏🏼🙏🏼💪🏻💪🏻😎😎

[@alltsab]

Thanks buddy help subscribe to ok very appreciated 👍

[@hitone4319]

Thank You on excellent procedure, I do hoever have more on same issue on my 2011 5.7. The fuses all checked out good just like in Your case. But the last batch of fusses that I saw You test, the last cluster of separate fusses bank shows no current at all! Quick explanation of trouble I had prior to that. I filled tank with what turned to be 2 year old fuel. The truck did no longer want to start. I drained the tank by disconnecting Plug at the Fuel pump module, by rigging a long speaker wire from battery to the /fuel pump module--- the blue and red terminals and was able to drain all the bad fuel out. The truck cranks and does not start, there is no fuel pump pressure at all. Yes there is if I pull the plug and rig the blue and red wire again. Also another thing, the key seems to refuse to return from start possition to run! I can do that manualy of course, but it is not correct to so. If that helps someone I further add that the blue wire is (+) and the red wire is (-) at the plug for Fuel Pump Controll Module which is just ahead of rear drivers side inside the frame rail!

[@abramporras7877]

I have 33 sensors being thrown on my scanner would you know how I can narrow that down lol I even fixed 7 sensors and they still showing up my car don't stay on just turns over and dies

[@alltsab]

Too many code you need to clear it first then whatever code come up first then fix that one.

[@abramporras7877]

@@alltsab I cleared them and then all them came out think it's a short maybe?

[@alltsab]

Possible

[@hectorfranqui6553]

I have 9 codes. Did you find a solution? Mine start and dies after 2 seconds and 4h and 4l lights are flashing

[@frederick6008]

Good the fuel pump didn't burn out.

[@joejengonzales2845]

My 2008 tundra, hesitates during start up on hot days. Has been doing this over the summer, but would eventually start, so I turn the key, it cranks for 5-15 seconds sounding like no fuel but then it starts and I drive it normally with no issues, passing cars with no problems. Not sure where to start?

[@LesleyAlbritton]

Did you solve this issue? I am having the exact same problem!

[@shanedubray1388]

Im dealing with a crank no start on a 2006 Tundra Double Cab 4.7, I’m not getting fuel, checked relay and pump, it’s good, checked crankshaft position good, just running in circles, not getting a signal at FPR pin (red green wire that goes to FPR) at PCM but I’m getting Power at the FPResistor Feeling a bit defeated on it Someone mention Tansponder, Immobilizer, just lost on my diagnosis, I called the Lockshop and they said the Key shouldn’t be Chipped after running the Vin

[@riftvalley1765]

I have the same exact color year and model even the leather seats, my fuel system if perfectly fine but 4 of the 8 spark plugs are not getting power when ignition switch is turned on, neither do they spark, 2 from each sides, I am guessing it's either ignition control module if it is equipped with one or the ECM, I couldn't conclude it's ECM because I can see "Check Engine" light and when hooked to OBD tool it's showing 6 different codes such as misfire. Any suggestion please?

[@bblod4896]

Interesting that the low gas yellow light was not on 🤔

[@alltsab]

Quarter tank mark so the light didn't on.

[@bblod4896]

@@alltsab It's part of the fuel sender gage now! I didn't know that. Thanks.

[@alltsab]

Gage is crazy

[@sysomyoung7437]

👍

[@zongyang6602]

Good job bro...

[@alltsab]

Thanks 😊

[@miguelmelgarejo4805]

Replace the pump check the module good put new Gas all the fuse are good is gas in the injectors and still no start crank no start and also desconect that line replace crank sensor still no start🤨

[@alltsab]

Did you check for spark before you replace all those parts?

[@miguelmelgarejo4805]

@@alltsab yes sir

[@alltsab]

@miguelmelgarejo4805 have you try to spray carb cleaner into the intake to see it start?

[@miguelmelgarejo4805]

I did nothing

[@miguelmelgarejo4805]

You think is a computer problem??

[@zongyang6602]

Who the own this truck must b tupid...

[@shepardrozycki6614]

𝓹𝓻𝓸𝓶𝓸𝓼𝓶 🌈